Land Rover Freelander 1997-2006 Workshop Repair Manual

1) Safety & preparation
- Action: Park on level ground, engine cold, key out, negative battery terminal disconnected or ignition disabled. Have correct new plugs, torque wrench, spark-plug socket with extension and swivel, ratchet, gap tool, compressed air or brush, anti-seize only if manufacturer allows, dielectric grease.
- Theory: A cold engine avoids burns and prevents stripping soft threads when hot. Disconnecting the battery prevents accidental cranking/ignition while you work.

2) Identify engine type
- Action: Confirm petrol engine (spark plugs) vs diesel (glow plugs). If diesel, stop — procedure is different.
- Theory: Only petrol engines use spark plugs. Replacing glow plugs on diesels is not the same operation.

3) Access and clean
- Action: Remove engine cover if present. Blow compressed air or brush around each plug well to remove dirt and prevent debris falling into the cylinder.
- Theory: Dirt entering the combustion chamber can score the bore or foul the plug; cleaning avoids contaminants falling in when the plug is removed.

4) Remove ignition leads/coils
- Action: For coil-on-plug (most modern Freelanders), unplug the electrical connector, unbolt the coil, and pull the coil straight out. For older lead-and-distributor systems, remove the HT leads by the boot (twist and pull).
- Theory: Coils deliver high-voltage to the plug and must be removed to access the plug. Inspect coils/boots for cracks, carbon tracking, corrosion — a bad coil can mimic a bad plug.

5) Break and remove the plug
- Action: Fit spark-plug socket with extension and swivel. Turn counter-clockwise slowly to break the plug loose, then remove by hand via extension.
- Theory: Gentle initial force avoids snapping the plug or stripping threads in the head. The socket’s rubber insert holds the plug so you don’t drop it into the engine.

6) Inspect the old plug
- Action: Check electrode and insulator condition and color:
- Light tan/gray: healthy combustion.
- Black, sooty: rich mixture/fouling/weak ignition.
- Oily: valve cover gasket or oil control ring leak.
- White/very clean and blistered: overheating/detonation or wrong heat range.
- Worn/rounded electrodes or gap wide: plug life reached.
- Theory: Plug appearance is a diagnostic window into combustion, fuel mixture, oil ingress, cooling, ignition quality, and plug heat range.

7) Check and set gap (if required)
- Action: Verify new plug gap with a feeler or gap tool and adjust to the engine spec (consult manual). Many modern iridium/platinum plugs come pre-gapped.
- Theory: The spark energy and ignition reliability depend on the correct gap: too wide = weak or no spark; too narrow = early misfire and inefficient combustion.

8) Install new plug
- Action: Start the plug by hand to avoid cross-threading. Turn down until finger-tight then torque to manufacturer spec (typical small petrol threads ~20–30 Nm / 15–22 lb·ft; confirm exact value in the manual). Do not overtighten.
- Theory: Correct torque ensures a proper seal and heat transfer. Under-torque can lead to poor sealing and vibration; over-torque can strip threads or break the plug.

9) Refit coils/boots and connectors
- Action: If using dielectric grease, apply a small amount to the inside of the coil boot (not on the electrode). Refit coil or lead, bolt to spec, reconnect electrical connector. For coil-on-plug: ensure coil seats squarely.
- Theory: Good electrical contact and a sealed boot prevent moisture and arcing. Proper seating ensures the coil-to-plug gap is correct and the high-voltage path is reliable.

10) Final checks and run
- Action: Reconnect battery, clear any stored fault codes if you have a scan tool, start engine and observe idle, listen for misfires, check for check-engine light and scan again.
- Theory: A correct installation restores reliable spark timing and combustion. If misfire persists, further diagnosis on coils, wiring, fuel, compression, or ECU may be required.

How replacing spark plugs fixes common faults
- Symptom: Misfire / rough idle / poor acceleration / higher fuel consumption / increased emissions.
- Cause: Worn electrodes, fouling, cracked insulator, wrong gap, or high resistance in the plug means the ignition coil cannot produce a strong, properly-timed spark.
- Repair effect: New plugs restore correct electrode geometry and insulation/resistance, return the correct spark energy across the specified gap, and re-establish reliable ignition of the air–fuel mixture. That restores complete combustion, smoothing idle, improving power and economy, and reducing emissions.
- Symptom: Intermittent misfire with healthy-looking plugs
- Cause: Faulty coil, damaged wiring, or poor connector contact.
- Repair effect: Replacing plugs rules out the plug as the fault and often, when combined with coil inspection/replacement, resolves the high-voltage delivery issue.

Quick diagnostics from plug condition
- Sooty black: rich mixture, weak spark, or cold-engine / wrong heat range.
- Wet with fuel: injector leakage or severe misfire preventing combustion.
- Oily: valve cover gasket or guide/seal issue.
- Blistered/white: overheating, detonation, or wrong plug heat range.
- Rounded electrodes/wide gap: normal wear — replace.

Concise tips
- Always use the manufacturer-specified plug type & gap.
- Hand-start threads, torque correctly.
- Replace coils or boots that show cracking or carbon tracks.
- If the car has a diesel engine, replace glow plugs, not spark plugs.

Done.
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