1) Fault diagnosis — theory and goal
- Common radiator faults: external leaks (cracked tanks, corroded seams), internal blockage (sediment, scale), collapsed tubes/plugged core, or oil/air contamination from other failures. Any fault reduces coolant flow or heat-exchange area so engine overheats, boils, or loses pressure.
- Goal of replacement: restore an intact, high-conductivity heat exchanger and a sealed, pressurized coolant circuit so coolant flow, heat transfer, and system boiling point return to spec.

2) Preparations (safety and parts) — theory
- Let engine cool fully and relieve system pressure to avoid scalding. A pressurized, hot coolant system can spray and cause injury; also thermal stress can warp components if removed hot.
- Parts to have: correct replacement radiator (core and tanks matched to MF 200-series), new upper/lower hoses and clamps if aged, new radiator cap, new thermostat recommended, new mounting bushings if needed, coolant (correct concentration), thread sealant for petcock if required.
- Tools: drain pan, basic hand tools, pliers, hose pick, torque wrench for fasteners, pressure tester (recommended). Having a clean workspace prevents contamination of the cooling passages.

3) Drain coolant — in-order step and theory
- Place drain pan under radiator petcock/drain and open it; remove lower hose if needed to speed drain. Capture and dispose/recycle coolant properly.
- Theory: draining removes coolant so radiator can be removed without spilling and reduces weight. Removing contaminated coolant prevents reintroducing scale/sediment into new radiator.

4) Disconnect electrical and ancillaries — in-order and why
- Disconnect battery negative. Unplug any temperature sensors in the radiator/engine. Remove fan belt or detach fan if fan is engine-driven; remove fan shroud and grill if present. If tractor has a hydraulic/transmission oil cooler mounted on/near radiator, disconnect and cap those lines.
- Theory: electrical isolation prevents shorts; removing fan and shroud gives clearance and protects fan blades; oil coolers/lines must be handled to avoid contamination and loss of oil/pressure.

5) Remove hoses, fittings and mountings — in-order and why
- Loosen clamps and remove upper and lower radiator hoses. Remove any bypass or heater hoses. Transfer and label sensors or thermistor fittings. Remove mounting bolts/bushings securing radiator to frame and any rubber isolators.
- Theory: hoses and fittings allow coolant flow in/out of radiator. Removing them isolates radiator. Rubber mounts damp vibration; transferring them maintains correct alignment and vibration isolation for the replacement.

6) Remove radiator and inspect related components — in-order and why
- Lift radiator straight out; if obstructed, remove additional brackets or the grill. Inspect fan, fan clutch (if fitted), water pump inlet/outlet, thermostat housing, and coolant passages for corrosion or damage. Clean debris from front of engine and oil cooler surfaces.
- Theory: replacing radiator without checking adjacent parts risks reintroducing failures. Debris/clogging in front of the core or a failing water pump/thermostat will cause repeated overheating.

7) Prepare and fit new radiator — in-order and why
- Transfer any fittings, sensors, petcock, or baffles to the new radiator using appropriate seals/threads. Fit new mounting bushings; position radiator and loosely fit mounting bolts so alignment can be adjusted. Reattach fan shroud and fan (maintain correct clearance).
- Theory: proper sealing of fittings prevents leaks; correct alignment avoids hose tension and vibration that produce fatigue leaks; shroud directs air through core for efficient heat transfer.

8) Reconnect hoses, clamps and sensors — in-order and why
- Reinstall upper and lower hoses with new clamps. Reconnect bypass/heater hoses and any oil-cooler lines, torque fasteners to spec. Plug sensors and reconnect electrical. Replace radiator cap and thermostat if pre-chosen. Reconnect battery.
- Theory: secure hose connections maintain system pressure and prevent external leaks. Correct thermostat ensures proper opening temperature and flow timing; a new cap restores correct system pressure and boiling point.

9) Refill and bleed the cooling system — in-order and why
- Refill with correct coolant/water mix. Use the tractor’s bleed points (bleeder screws or by running at low idle with heater valves open) to purge trapped air until a steady stream of coolant flows and temperature stabilizes. Top up to operating level.
- Theory: air in the system creates pockets that block flow and cause local overheating and cavitation. Proper bleeding restores continuous coolant column and effective pump flow.

10) Pressure-test and run-check — in-order and why
- Use a cooling-system pressure tester to pressurize to cap rating and check for leaks (hoses, fittings, seam joints). Start engine, warm to operating temperature, observe temperature gauge, check for leaks under load, and verify fan engagement and flow through the core. Recheck coolant level after cool-down and re-torque clamps if necessary.
- Theory: pressure testing verifies the new radiator and seals hold pressure and won’t boil off coolant. Running under load confirms heat transfer and flow are restored, and that thermostat and pump are functioning.

11) How the repair fixes the fault — concise explanation
- A new radiator replaces corroded/ leaking metal and unclogs blocked tubes/cores. This restores full internal flow and the radiator’s heat-transfer surface area (tubes + fins), allowing hot coolant to pass through and shed heat to ambient air. Properly sealed connections and a new cap restore system pressure so the boiling point is raised and coolant stays liquid at operating temperatures. Replacing hoses and/or thermostat removes additional flow restrictions and external leak points. Together, these fix the causes of overheating, coolant loss, and pressure loss that created the original fault.

12) Final checks and maintenance notes
- Dispose coolant legally. After a few hours of operation, recheck for leaks, coolant level, and proper temperature. If overheating persists, inspect water pump, thermostat, head gasket, or block passages. Regularly flush coolant at recommended intervals to prevent recurrence.

Done.
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