Tools & materials
- Spark plug socket (correct size for MF 300 series plugs), ratchet, extensions, torque wrench
- Spark plug boot / wire puller (rubber/metal pliers or specialty boot puller)
- Wire crimper for spark plug terminals (insulated terminal crimper or specific spark-wire terminal crimper)
- Wire stripper (light-duty, adjustable)
- Digital multimeter (ohms)
- Dielectric grease (silicone-based)
- Replacement spark plug wire set specific to Massey Ferguson 300-series (or correct lengths and terminals if building wires)
- Replacement spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor (recommended if old)
- Heat‑shrink tubing (optional), terminal crimps, electrical tape, zip-ties/clips for routing
- Gloves, safety glasses, shop rags

Safety precautions
- Work only with engine off and ignition key removed. Disconnect negative battery terminal to prevent accidental crank.
- Allow engine to cool fully before working near heads/exhaust.
- No open flames or smoking near gasoline fumes.
- Keep hands/clothing away from belts, fans if engine must be cranked for testing.
- Mark wiring and take photos before removal to preserve routing and firing order.

Step‑by‑step replacement and inspection
1) Preparation and identification
- Locate distributor cap and spark plugs. Consult the tractor’s service manual for cylinder numbering and firing order if available. If manual not available, photograph or mark wires before removing.
- If you’re unsure of firing order, remove and replace one wire at a time (see step 4) to avoid swapping leads.

2) Remove one wire at a time (keeps firing order)
- Disconnect negative battery.
- Work one spark plug wire at a time: remove the wire at the plug end first. Use a boot puller or grasp the boot (not the cable) and twist gently while pulling. Do not yank the wire itself — you’ll damage the conductor or the terminal.
- Then remove the distributor cap-end boot. If terminals are secured under the cap, remove the cap first to access terminal posts.

3) Inspect old wire
- Visual: look for cracks, brittle insulation, burns, oil contamination or exposed conductor.
- Electrical: measure continuity/resistance with a multimeter. Set meter to ohms, touch probes to each end of the wire. Note total resistance. Typical wire resistance varies by type/age — compare to manufacturer spec or a good new wire. Very high or open resistance = replace.
- If the boot or terminal is corroded or the wire is damaged, replace the wire.

4) Remove/install one wire at a time (maintain routing)
- Always remove and replace one length at a time so you don’t alter the firing order.
- Before installing, compare old wire length to new wire. Match length and routing so wires don’t cross hot surfaces or moving parts.

5) Preparing new wire and terminals (if building/replacing terminals)
- If wires come pre-terminated, skip to step 6.
- If you must attach terminals: strip only the specified small length of insulation (typically 3–6 mm for the terminal barrel). Do not nick core strands.
- Slide on heat‑shrink if using, position out of the way.
- Insert conductor into terminal sleeve fully. Use a proper spark-wire crimper to crimp the sleeve — center the sleeve in the crimper jaws and make a solid, clean crimp. Do not use generic pliers; improper crimps lead to poor contact or breaking.
- After crimping, optionally apply heat‑shrink and shrink it for moisture protection.
- Perform a gentle pull test on the terminal to ensure the conductor is secure.

6) Installing new wire
- Apply a thin dab of dielectric grease inside each boot (not on the terminal exposed metal). The grease improves seal and prevents moisture tracking.
- Push the boot fully onto the spark plug until you feel it seat. Push the distributor-end boot onto the cap terminal until seated.
- Route the wire along original path, secure with clips or zip-ties away from the exhaust manifold, steering linkages, belts and fan.
- Repeat for each remaining wire, one at a time.

7) Reassembly and final checks
- If you removed the distributor cap, ensure rotor and cap are correctly oriented and locked. Confirm cap gasket or clamp is secure.
- Reconnect negative battery terminal.
- Start the tractor and check idle and running. Listen for misfires or roughness. If misfire occurs, recheck that each wire is connected to correct cylinder and distributor post, and that boots are fully seated.
- After a short run, reinspect routing and clamp tightness.

How to use the specific tools
- Spark plug boot puller: slip around the boot base, grip and twist while pulling straight out. This avoids pulling on the wire conductor.
- Crimping tool (spark/terminal crimper): place the terminal sleeve in the correct die or jaw area, squeeze firmly to deform sleeve uniformly. Inspect crimps — they should be neat and the conductor must not pull out on a firm tug test.
- Wire stripper: set to remove only the thin outer jacket length required. Do not nick the core conductor or inner core insulation (if present).
- Multimeter (ohms): set to appropriate resistance scale, attach probes to each wire end (clean contacts), read resistance. Compare to spec; open circuit or extremely high resistance means failure. Typical older ignition wires may read from a few thousand ohms to tens of thousands across the wire — follow the replacement set specs.

Replacement parts recommended
- Complete spark plug wire set matched to Massey Ferguson 300-series (best practice to replace as a set).
- Spark plugs (inspect/replace according to service interval).
- Distributor cap and rotor (replace if old/cracked/corroded).
- Boots and terminals (if not included in set).
- Dielectric grease, heat-shrink, terminal crimps.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Pulling on the wire instead of the boot: causes internal conductor break or terminal pull-out. Use a boot puller and twist/rock while pulling.
- Mixing firing order or wiring positions: mark wires or replace one at a time to preserve order.
- Routing wires across the exhaust manifold or near moving parts: leads to heat damage/fuel ignition and wire wear. Route using factory clips and away from hot/moving parts.
- Poor crimps or loose terminals: causes intermittent misfire. Use the correct crimper and perform pull tests.
- Not replacing old cap/rotor when replacing wires: a weak cap/rotor can mask new wire performance. Replace cap/rotor if they show wear.
- Not using dielectric grease: allows moisture tracking and corrosion in boots; use a small amount inside each boot.
- Reusing badly aged wires: old wires may have hidden high resistance; replace the set if uncertain.

Quick troubleshooting after installation
- Rough idle or misfire: confirm each boot is fully seated, check firing order, check distributor cap seating and rotor alignment.
- Intermittent misfire at higher RPM: check for wires routed together crossing causing EMI, check resistance of each wire, check for cracked insulation.
- Visible arcing at night: look for cracked boots or wires too close to metal surfaces — reroute and replace affected wire.

Done.
rteeqp73

Replacing bearing on Massey Ferguson 399

MF 399 TURBO SOUND! STRAIGHT PIPE! Visited "Renskleiv" farm 1000 km south of where we live. We got the chance to record a sound video of this Massey Ferguson 399 ...

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