INTRODUCTION
-
CAB AND EQUIPMENT -
SPLITTING THE TRACTOR
- ENGINE -GEARBOX - REAR AXLE
About the Massey Ferguson MF3600
The Massey Ferguson 3600 series was introduced in 1987 to replace the Massey Ferguson 2005 series. The range consisted of 5 models originaly, and ranged from 113 hp to 150 hp. The series was replaced by the Massey Ferguson 8100 series in 1995. By the early 1990 several new models had been added to the range. The MF 3600 models were fitted with either of Autotronic or Datatronic control systems.
Massey Ferguson MF3600 Tractor factory workshop and repair manual download
- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, steel-toe boots and hearing protection as needed.
- Work on level, solid ground; block wheels and place jackstands under rated points—never rely on a jack alone.
- Disconnect negative battery cable before starting electrical work.
- Drain transmission/PTO oil into a drain pan before opening housings to avoid spills and hot fluid burns.
- If you are uncomfortable lifting heavy components or working under unsupported equipment, hire a shop. Clutch/transmission removal is heavy and can crush you.
- Essential references
- Obtain the Massey Ferguson MF3600 series service manual (specific model/year sub-variant) for lift points, bolt torque specs, removal order, and illustrations. Exact torque and sequences vary by model and are required.
- Tools (detailed descriptions and how to use each)
- Metric socket set (3/8" and 1/2" drive, deep and shallow sockets)
- Description: 8–24 mm sockets, 3/8" drive for smaller fasteners, 1/2" for main bolts.
- Use: Match socket to bolt head, keep square drive engaged, use extension to reach recessed bolts; avoid rounding heads by using correct size.
- Ratchets and extensions
- Description: Mechanical tool to turn sockets; extensions and universal joints reach awkward angles.
- Use: Use 3/8" ratchet for smaller work; 1/2" ratchet for higher torque; pull steadily—don’t jerk.
- Breaker bar
- Description: Long non-ratcheting bar for stubborn bolts.
- Use: Apply steady force; avoid sudden impacts that can snap bolts. Use penetrating oil first.
- Torque wrench (click-type, 3/8" and/or 1/2" drive covering required torque range)
- Description: Tool that tightens bolts to a set torque and clicks when reached.
- Use: Set to specified torque from manual; tighten in proper sequence (cross pattern) and final click once, do not “streak” the wrench.
- Combination wrench set (metric)
- Description: Open-end/box-end wrenches to hold nuts while turning bolts.
- Use: Use box end for best grip on rounded bolts; hold counter-side while socket turns.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips), pliers (slip-joint, long-nose), adjustable wrench
- Description: Basic hand tools for clamps, connectors, retaining screws.
- Use: Match driver size to fastener; use pliers for clips and cotter pins.
- Hammer and brass/soft-faced mallet, drift/punch set
- Description: For persuading stuck parts without damaging surfaces.
- Use: Light taps with soft-faced mallet; drift pins to drive out dowels or align holes.
- Pry bar(s)
- Description: Leverage tool to separate housings or align components.
- Use: Apply gradually; protect surfaces with wood block to avoid gouging.
- Hydraulic floor jack (rated for tractor weight or transmission weight) and heavy-duty jackstands (rated)
- Description: Jack lifts; jackstands support weight.
- Use: Lift at manufacturer-approved points; place stands under frame or specified support points; lower slowly onto stands.
- Transmission jack or engine hoist + suitable adapter / sturdy transmission support
- Description: Transmission jack supports and moves heavy transmission safely; engine hoist supports engine if transmission removed without lowering engine.
- Use: Center load, secure with straps, raise/lower slowly and align splines when reinstalling. If using engine hoist, use crossbar and chains rated strong enough for engine weight.
- Clutch alignment tool (plastic or steel mandrel sized to input shaft)
- Description: Tool that centers the clutch disc on the input shaft while you tighten the pressure plate.
- Use: Insert through disc splines and into pilot bearing to hold disc concentric; remove after pressure plate is torqued.
- Pilot bearing/bushing puller (or appropriate drift)
- Description: Special puller to remove a pilot bearing from crankshaft.
- Use: Use according to tool instructions; heat/penetrant can help; do not damage crank bore.
- Bearing grease, high-temp anti-seize and thread locker (medium strength)
- Description: Lubricants and adhesives for assembly.
- Use: Lightly grease splines; apply anti-seize on removable bolts and threadlocker on bolts specified by manual.
- Shop light, creeper or mat, rags, drain pan, cleaning solvent, wire brush
- Description: Cleaning and working aids.
- Use: Keep parts clean and organized; catch fluids.
- Impact wrench (optional)
- Description: Pneumatic/electric gun for stubborn bolts.
- Use: Saves time but do not use to final torque; finish with torque wrench.
- Seal puller and oil seal installer (if replacing rear main seal)
- Description: Tools to remove and install seals without damaging crank.
- Use: Carefully extract old seal; press new seal squarely and flush to spec.
- Extra tools you may need and why
- Engine hoist or engine support bar: required if transmission removal requires supporting or slightly lowering the engine; protects engine mounts.
- Transmission jack: strongly recommended—transmission is heavy and awkward; a normal floor jack is unsafe.
- Flywheel turner (locking pin or wrench) and flywheel resurfacing equipment: needed if flywheel damaged or needs machining.
- Torque angle gauge: required if manual calls for torque + angle for some bolts.
- Specialty pullers (pilot bearing, throw-out bearing): prevent damage to mating surfaces.
- Parts likely required (what they are, why replace)
- Clutch kit (friction disc, pressure plate, release/throw-out bearing)
- Why: Wear on friction disc causes slipping; pressure plate temper and surface wear reduce clamping; release bearing often noisy/worn—replace as a set for reliability.
- Pilot bearing / pilot bushing
- Why: Supports input shaft; wear causes vibration and premature disc wear—replace whenever clutch is out.
- Spigot sleeve (if used on MF3600), clutch disc hub if damaged
- Why: Worn sleeve/hub causes misalignment and noise.
- Clutch fork and pivot ball / bushings
- Why: Wear or cracks cause poor disengagement; replace if worn.
- Flywheel (resurface or replace)
- Why: Scoring, heat checks or warping reduce friction and cause chatter; resurface if within thickness/specs, replace if out of spec.
- Rear main seal and gearbox output seal(s)
- Why: Often accessible with transmission out; replace to avoid oil leaks later.
- Transmission and bellhousing gaskets, new bolts if bolts are torque-to-yield or stretched
- Why: Prevent leaks and ensure correct clamping; some bolts should not be reused.
- Loctite/threadlocker and anti-seize where specified
- Why: Prevent bolt loosening or prevent seizure of bolts.
- High-level procedure (follow MF service manual for model-specific steps and torque values)
- Preparation
- Park tractor on level ground, block wheels, disconnect battery negative, drain gearbox/transmission/PTO fluid into pan, remove PTO shaft.
- Remove hood/side panels, seat, and any obstructions for access.
- Disconnect external linkages and electrics
- Unhook hydraulics, speedometer/shaft, PTO linkages, selector rods, and any wiring to the transmission/starter.
- Support engine/transmission
- Place engine hoist or support if the engine mountings will be altered. Place transmission jack under transmission, lift to take weight before unbolting.
- Remove starter and bellhousing covers
- Unbolt and remove starter (needed to access bellhousing bolts).
- Unbolt and remove transmission from engine
- Remove bellhousing-to-engine bolts in a pattern; lower transmission slowly on transmission jack while guiding it straight back to clear input shaft splines.
- Watch for any remaining lines or brackets still connected.
- Remove clutch assembly
- With transmission off, inspect and mark positions, remove pressure plate bolts evenly in a star pattern to avoid warping.
- Remove clutch disc and pressure plate. Use clutch alignment tool when reinstalling.
- Inspect flywheel and components
- Check flywheel for cracks, heat spots, scoring; measure runout and thickness per manual. Resurface if minor and within limits; replace if out of spec.
- Remove and replace pilot bearing if worn.
- Inspect clutch fork, pivot ball, and release bearing guide sleeve.
- Install new components
- Clean flywheel and mating surfaces. Lightly grease splines of input shaft and slide new clutch disc on alignment tool against flywheel friction face.
- Mount pressure plate and hand-start bolts, then torque to spec in star pattern using torque wrench.
- Replace release bearing on input shaft and the pivot/guide as required.
- Reinstall transmission
- Use transmission jack to lift and align input shaft into clutch disc splines, push transmission evenly until bellhousing mates to engine and bolt holes align.
- Tighten bellhousing bolts gradually in recommended sequence to specified torque.
- Reconnect everything
- Reinstall starter, driveshafts, linkages, hydraulic lines, electrical connectors, PTO, panels, and battery.
- Refill transmission/PTO oil to correct level.
- Adjust and test
- Adjust clutch linkage/free play per manual. Start engine and test clutch engagement/disengagement slowly. Check for leaks and unusual noises.
- Perform a low-load break-in: avoid heavy PTO loads for initial hours as manufacturer recommends.
- Common pitfalls and tips
- Never reuse a worn pilot bearing, release bearing or a visibly damaged clutch disc.
- Always center the clutch disc with the alignment tool before tightening the pressure plate—failure causes difficult transmission installation and premature wear.
- Replace rear main seal while transmission is out—saves labor later.
- Keep bolts and parts organized; mark orientation of any covers or parts that are direction-sensitive.
- Torque values and sequences are model-specific—use the service manual rather than guess.
- When to call a professional
- If you lack a transmission jack or hoist, or you can’t safely support heavy components.
- If flywheel machining is needed and you have no access to a lathe or machine shop.
- If you cannot obtain the correct torque specs or service information.
- Final note
- Get the MF3600 service manual and a correct clutch kit for your exact sub-model/serial number before starting. Replacing clutch components while the transmission is out is standard practice—expect a full-day job for a competent DIYer with the right tools, longer for a beginner.
(End of instructions — follow the MF3600 service manual for all torque specs, sequences and model-specific details.) rteeqp73
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