- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses, heavy gloves, closed-toe/steel-toe boots and hearing protection as needed.
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, block wheels, remove key, disconnect PTO/drive and any power to the baler.
- Do not work under unsupported panels. Always use a mechanical prop, jack with saddle block, or a second person to hold the panel/door open — gas struts can fail suddenly and the door will fall.
- If the strut is gas filled, do not puncture or incinerate; treat as pressurised.

- Identify the strut you have and whether replacement is required
- Visually inspect the component: gas strut looks like a hydraulic/rubber-covered cylinder with a piston rod; mechanical leaf or spring strut is curved metal.
- Check for oil leaks, bent rod, weak or no support (panel falls or slowly drifts), cracked mounts, worn ball/socket ends or detached clips — any of these indicate replacement is required.
- Note the end fittings (ball-stud with snap clip, threaded stud, eyelet, or clevis) and measure extended length (center-to-center of fittings) and compressed length if possible; record stroke (extended − compressed) and look for a force rating stamped on the body (Newtons, N).

- Parts you may need and why
- Replacement gas strut with matching specifications (required if the old strut is leaking, bent, or no longer supports load)
- Must match extended length, stroke, and force (N) and have the same end fittings (ball stud diameter / thread or eye/clevis style).
- If you cannot get exact OEM part, match length, stroke and force within close tolerance and ensure correct end fittings.
- Replacement mounting hardware (recommended)
- New ball studs, bolts, nuts, washers, and retaining clips/circlips — old hardware often corroded or weakened and should be replaced to ensure safe retention.
- Bushings or sleeves
- If mounts use plastic or rubber bushings that are worn, replace to avoid play and premature wear.
- Locking hardware or threadlocker (medium-strength) if specified — to prevent loosening in vibration.
- Disposal: return old gas strut to authorised recycling or hazardous waste collection; do not puncture.

- Tools you will need (basic set plus a few extras) and how to use each
- Safety gear (described above)
- Use as protection during all steps.
- Wheel chocks and sturdy props or a jack with a wooden block
- Wheel chocks prevent roll. Use a jack with a saddle and a block under the panel as a backup support; never rely solely on the strut to hold the panel.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster, WD-40 Specialist)
- Spray on rusty bolts and joints, wait 5–10 minutes, tap lightly with hammer to help penetrate.
- Adjustable spanner (large adjustable wrench)
- For turning nuts/bolts where socket access is limited; set jaw snug to fasten, pull toward the stationary jaw to avoid slipping.
- Metric and imperial wrench set (combination wrenches) and sockets (common range: 8 mm to 19 mm and 5/16" to 3/4")
- Use sockets on a ratchet for faster removal/tightening of bolts. Keep back-up open-end wrench to hold the opposite side of a bolt.
- Ratchet handle and extension bars
- For socket use in tight spaces; apply steady force, avoid sudden jerks.
- Torque wrench (click-type) — recommended
- To tighten bolts to manufacturer torque spec if available; set to specified torque and tighten until it clicks.
- Snap-ring / circlip pliers (internal and external)
- For removing/installing retaining clips on ball sockets or circlips on strut ends. Choose pliers that fit the clip and expand/compress gently.
- Small flat screwdriver and pick set
- To pry off small retaining clips or remove dust caps. Use carefully to avoid bending parts.
- Long-nose pliers and slip-joint pliers
- For holding and manipulating clips, pins and small hardware.
- Hammer and brass or nylon drift/punch
- Tap out corroded pins or align holes; use brass/nylon to avoid deforming steel.
- Bench vise or clamp (optional)
- Useful for holding small components while changing ball studs or fitting new clips.
- Threadlocker (medium strength, blue) and anti-seize (optional)
- Use threadlocker on bolts that must not vibrate loose; anti-seize on bolts exposed to corrosion for future removal (do not use both on same thread).
- Replacement bolts, nuts, washers, and ball studs (matching sizes)
- Match diameter and thread pitch. Replace if original is corroded or damaged.

- Step-by-step removal and installation (use props and care)
- Secure the baler and prop the panel/door in the open position with a jack and block or have an assistant hold it; never rely on the failing strut.
- Apply penetrating oil to both mounting points and let soak where bolts or ball studs are rusty.
- Remove retaining clip or circlip at the strut end:
- If there is a snap clip on a ball-socket end, use a small flat screwdriver or long-nose pliers to pry the clip away and pop the socket off the ball stud.
- If there is a threaded stud, hold the nut with a wrench and turn with the socket/ratchet or breaker bar as needed.
- Support the strut as you remove the second end; lower slowly — do not let the supported panel drop.
- Inspect mount brackets and ball studs for wear or damage; replace any rounded, rusted or loose studs/bolts.
- If installing a new gas strut:
- Compare new strut to old for length, stroke and end fittings.
- Fit any required ball studs or mounting brackets first, tighten snugly or to torque spec.
- If ball studs are threaded, apply medium threadlocker or anti-seize per manufacturer guidance and torque to spec.
- Snap the strut onto the lower ball stud first (if easier), then compress slightly by hand and snap onto upper ball stud; ensure retaining clip engages fully.
- If the strut uses bolts instead of ball studs, fit bolt through end eye, install washer and nut and tighten to spec.
- If you must use bolts where clips were used (temporary measure), use grade-matched bolts, lock washer or nylock nuts, and check regularly — not ideal for long-term.
- Remove props slowly while verifying the strut supports the panel correctly. Cycle the panel several times to check smooth operation.
- Tighten all fasteners to manufacturer torque if specified; otherwise tighten securely, use threadlocker on bolts subject to vibration, and recheck after first few uses.

- Testing and final checks
- With baler still secure and PTO disconnected, open and close the panel slowly several times to verify correct operation and no binding.
- Check all mounting hardware after first few uses and retorque if necessary.
- Inspect for leaks (gas strut should not leak oil) and ensure clips are fully seated.

- Extra tool recommendations and why they matter
- Torque wrench — ensures nuts/bolts are tightened to correct spec; prevents under/over-tightening that could cause failure.
- Snap-ring pliers — many gas struts use small retaining clips that standard pliers can damage; snap-ring pliers make removal and installation safe and fast.
- Penetrating oil and brass drift — old baler hardware is often corroded; these increase chance of removal without breaking studs.
- Replacement ball studs/mounts — old or corroded studs are weak points; replacing prevents future failure and ensures correct fit for the new strut.

- Disposal and safety with old gas struts
- Do not puncture, open or attempt to re-pressurise gas struts.
- Take to hazardous waste recycling or return to an authorized parts dealer for safe disposal.

- Quick measuring checklist when buying a replacement
- Measure extended length (center-to-center of end fittings).
- Measure compressed length and calculate stroke.
- Note end fitting types and sizes (ball-stud diameter and thread pitch, eye size, clevis, etc.).
- Note force rating (N) if stamped; if unknown, approximate by comparing the old strut or consult dealer for correct MF20 spec.

- Final notes
- If mounts or brackets are bent or excessively corroded, replace them — new strut on bad mount will fail.
- When in doubt about correct part number or torque specs for MF20, obtain OEM part number from a Massey Ferguson dealer or parts manual; replacing with an incorrect-size strut can cause unsafe operation.


rteeqp73

Haymaking Using Vintage Tractors / Baler ( 2018 ) Hi. Here I'm haymaking using vintage tractors / baler ( 2018 ). I'm using a Zetor 5545 (1968) and a Massey Ferguson 20-8 baler ...

Massey Ferguson 20 Bailer Knotter Servicing Part Two. Can We Make Hay With Old Farm Machines? Bailer knotters part two! further explanation of how it works. So all cleaned off and ready for re assembly. Almost!

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