- Safety first (do this before any work)
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, and steel-toe boots.
- Work on level ground, set parking brake, chock wheels, and disconnect tractor PTO and battery if the baler has electrical components.
- Support the baler securely with jack stands or stable blocking; never rely on a jack alone.
- Keep bystanders away and have a fire extinguisher available when using heat or power tools.

- Overview of task (what “transmission output shaft replacement” means)
- Remove the baler components needed to access the gearbox/output housing, withdraw the output shaft from the gearbox, replace damaged bearings/seals/gears as required, and install a new or remanufactured output shaft assembly with correct shims and torque.
- Expect to remove belts/chains, cover plates, couplings, and possibly the gearbox from the frame to get adequate access.

- Typical parts you may need and why
- Output shaft assembly (recommended if shaft is bent, severely worn, or splined ends damaged) — replaces the main rotating shaft that transmits power.
- Bearings (roller or ball bearings that support the shaft) — bearings commonly fail; always replace if worn, noisy, or rough.
- Oil seals (shaft seals and housing seals) — replace any seal removed to prevent oil leaks.
- Snap rings/circlips and retaining washers — these often deform when removed; replacement ensures correct retention.
- Keys and woodruff keys (spline keys) — replace if rounded, cracked, or missing to prevent gear/coupling slip.
- Gears or couplings (if gear teeth or splines are worn/chipped) — worn gears will cause noise and failure.
- Shims/spacers (for correct bearing preload/endplay) — necessary to restore factory endplay specifications.
- Gasket or RTV sealant for gearbox cover — to prevent leaks when reassembling.
- Fresh gearbox oil of the specification listed in the service manual.

- Signs that parts must be replaced (what to look for)
- Shaft visibly bent, heavily scored, or with damaged splines — replace shaft.
- Excessive radial or axial play when you wiggle the shaft (beyond specs) — replace bearings and possibly shaft.
- Rough, noisy, or seized bearings when rotated by hand — replace bearings.
- Metal debris or chopped-up gasket material in gearbox oil — indicates internal wear/damage.
- Oil leaks at the shaft or housing — replace seals and inspect shaft shoulder for wear.
- Gear teeth chipped, worn, or pitted — replace affected gears.

- Tools required (basic set for a beginner)
- Socket set (metric and SAE) with ratchet and extensions — for removing bolts and nuts. Use the correct socket size; a longer breaker bar helps break tight fasteners.
- Open-end/box wrenches — to hold one side while turning the other when space is tight.
- Torque wrench (click-type) — for final tightening of bolts/nuts to specified torque; prevents over- or under-tightening.
- Hammer (ball-peen) and soft-face mallet (rubber or dead-blow) — for persuasion without damaging parts; use mallet to tap covers or shafts, hammer with care for drifts.
- Punches and drifts (steel) — to drive out roll pins, dowels, and stubborn components. Use a center punch to start and protect surfaces.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips) — for prying covers, removing small fasteners; use correct sizes to avoid slippage.
- Pliers (needle-nose and slip-joint) — for removing cotter pins and holding small parts.
- Snap ring (circlip) pliers — internal and external types depending on circlip orientation; use to remove/install retaining rings safely.
- Bearing puller or two/three-jaw gear puller — to remove bearings, gears, or pulleys from the shaft without damaging them.
- Hydraulic or arbor press (recommended) or a heavy-duty vise — for pressing bearings on/off shafts; manual hammering risks damage.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, WD-40 Specialist) — to loosen rusted or seized fasteners.
- Breaker bar and impact wrench (optional but useful) — impact wrench speeds removal of heavy fasteners; breaker bar is safer/easier for initial loosening.
- Floor jack and jack stands or suitable lift/engine hoist — to support and move heavy assemblies safely.
- Feeler gauges / digital caliper / micrometer / dial indicator (recommended) — to measure shaft runout, bearing bores, and endplay; needed to meet tolerances and shim correctly.
- Shop rags, wire brush, parts tray for small parts, gasket scraper, cleaning solvent — for cleaning surfaces and organizing hardware.
- Replacement gaskets/sealant and grease — for reassembly.

- Extra tools you may not have but why they’re required (and options)
- Arbor press or hydraulic press — bearings are often pressed onto shafts and into housings. Without a press, you risk damaging bearings or shaft by hammering. If you don’t own one, rent from a tool rental shop or use a machine shop service.
- Bearing heater or controlled heat source — heating bearings to fit them onto the shaft can reduce force needed and prevents damage. An oven or bearing heater is safer than an open torch.
- Hydraulic puller or two/three-jaw gear puller — removing tightly fitted gears without a puller can damage parts. Rent if needed.
- Dial indicator — measuring shaft runout and endplay precisely ensures a correct rebuild; if you lack one, have a shop check the tolerances before final assembly.
- Torque wrench (if not owned) — critical for correct bolt torque; rent or borrow if necessary.

- How to use the essential tools (practical, beginner-friendly notes)
- Socket set and ratchet
- Select the correct socket that fits snugly to avoid rounding nut corners.
- Use extensions to reach recessed bolts. For stubborn bolts, apply penetrating oil and let soak.
- Breaker bar and impact wrench
- Use breaker bar with steady, controlled force. Don’t apply sudden, jerky force that can slip.
- Impact wrench speeds work but always undo fasteners counterclockwise; use sockets rated for impact use.
- Torque wrench
- Set to the specified value and tighten until the wrench clicks; do final pass in stages if multiple bolts share a flange.
- Snap ring pliers
- Choose internal or external pliers that match the circlip. Compress or expand gently and place rings into groove; do not over-stretch rings.
- Bearing/gear puller
- Center the forcing screw on the shaft bearing surface; ensure arms grip behind the component. Tighten forcing screw slowly and evenly to pull the part free.
- Arbor/hydraulic press
- Support the part so force is applied evenly on the bearing/housing edge. Press only on the outer race when removing a bearing from a shaft; when installing, press on the race being pressed (outer for housing, inner for shaft) to avoid damaging rolling elements.
- Punches/drifts and hammer
- Use to remove pins or align holes. Use light taps first; work progressively larger until free. Protect adjacent surfaces with blocks of wood when necessary.
- Dial indicator
- Mount so plunger contacts the shaft; rotate shaft and read runout. Moveable runout above tolerance indicates bent shaft.

- Step-by-step job flow (high level, in practical order)
- Clean area and remove guards and covers to gain access to the gearbox/output housing.
- Drain gearbox oil into an appropriate container; dispose of waste oil properly.
- Remove belts, chains, PTO coupling, and any driven components connected to the output shaft.
- Unbolt gearbox cover and any external housings; label or separate bolts by location so they go back in the same hole.
- Remove snap rings, retaining nuts, and couplings that hold the output shaft in place.
- Use puller(s) and penetrating oil to remove gears, pulleys, or bearings that are pressed on the shaft.
- If bearings are pressed in the housing, remove the output shaft assembly from the gearbox; note the order of spacers, shims, and parts as you remove them (take photos).
- Use a press to remove bearings from the shaft (press on inner race to remove from shaft only if safe; otherwise press housing off).
- Inspect shaft for straightness (use a V-block or bench and a dial indicator), splines for wear, and surfaces for scoring.
- Replace any worn bearings, seals, snap rings, keys, or the entire output shaft if required.
- Clean all bores, reassemble with new seals/bearings, use correct shimming to achieve specified endplay/runout, and torque all fasteners to spec.
- Refill gearbox with the correct oil, reconnect couplings/chains/belts, run the baler at low speed to check for leaks/noises, recheck mounting bolts after initial run.

- Shimming and setting endplay (why it matters)
- Bearings and shaft spacing are set with shims to achieve correct preload or endplay. Incorrect shimming leads to premature bearing failure or shaft movement.
- Use a dial indicator to measure axial play and adjust shims until the part matches the service manual specification.
- If you lack exact specs or measuring tools, have a shop set the endplay after you install parts to avoid damaging a new shaft or bearings.

- Where to get replacement parts
- Massey Ferguson dealer for OEM parts and part numbers — recommended for critical parts like shafts and matching bearings/gears.
- Reputable aftermarket suppliers or salvaged parts from used-equipment dealers if budget dictates; inspect thoroughly for wear.
- Bearings and seals can usually be sourced locally from bearing shops; bring old parts for correct sizing.

- Final checks before returning to service
- Confirm all snap rings and retainers are correctly seated.
- Verify bolt torque values with a torque wrench.
- Refill gearbox to correct level and check for leaks while spinning the shaft by hand before running under load.
- Test run at low RPM to listen for unusual noise and re-check oil level and bolt tightness after the first hours of operation.

- Practical tips and cautions for a beginner
- Take many photos during disassembly so you can reassemble in the correct order.
- Label small parts and fasteners with masking tape and a marker.
- Rent or ask to borrow heavier specialty tools (press, puller, dial indicator) rather than improvising; improper removal/installation is the most common cause of ruined parts.
- If the output shaft is bent or splines are badly worn, replacing the entire shaft assembly is better than trying to repair—cheaper in labor and more reliable.
- If you are uncomfortable with bearing press work, consider having a bearing shop press bearings onto/out of the shaft and check tolerances.

- Quick checklist of parts to have on hand before you start
- Replacement bearings and oil seals matching the originals
- Snap rings/circlips and retaining washers
- New keys and any visible worn gears
- Gasket or RTV and new gearbox oil
- Replacement output shaft assembly (if shaft is bent or splines damaged)

- Final note
- This is a moderately advanced mechanical task that commonly requires a press, pullers, and measurement tools. If you do not have access to those and cannot rent them, plan to remove the gearbox or shaft and take it to a machine/bearing shop for pressing and fitting service.


rteeqp73

Timing a Massey Ferguson 124 128 Baler

Massey Ferguson MF 20-8 square baler Running as sweet as a sewing machine after refurbishment!

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