Short, practical guide for a beginner mechanic: how a suspension-lowering kit is fitted to a Massey‑Ferguson MF20 baler (what the kit parts are, why you’d do it, how the system works, step‑by‑step installation, checks, and what can go wrong). Follow manufacturer instructions and local safety rules — this is mechanical work with heavy components and suspended loads.

Summary (one line)
- A lowering kit drops the axle or spring perch to lower baler ride height for better pickup/transport geometry. The kit is typically bolt‑on blocks, relocated perches, or kit hangers that change spring/axle position.

1) Theory — why this repair/upgrade is done and how the system works
- Purpose: Lowering tunes the baler’s ground clearance, pickup angle and trailer tongue height so the pickup meets crop at the right height and the baler tows level behind the tractor. It can reduce tongue weight strain on the hitch and allow PTO/drive components to run at safer angles.
- How the suspension works (simple analogy): Think of the baler as a wheel attached to the chassis by a lever arm (spring or axle). The spring/axle assembly supports the baler, controls ride height and absorbs bumps. Lowering is like moving the fulcrum of that lever down so the chassis sits nearer the ground.
- Effects of lowering:
- Lower center of gravity, can improve pickup position and stability.
- Reduced travel/clearance: less shock absorption, higher risk of bottoming out.
- Changes in geometry (axle to frame, pickup to ground, brake line length, hub bearings, tire clearance, and driveline/PTO angles).
- Why it must be done correctly: Wrong location/angle increases stress on springs/axle, causes binding, uneven tire wear, brake issues, driveline vibrations or failure.

2) Typical lowering-kit components (detailed)
A typical bolt‑on lowering kit for a single-axle towed baler may include some or all of the following:
- Lowering blocks (top and bottom plates) — thick steel plates that slip between the axle and leaf spring center plate. They increase/decrease spring stack height and change axle position relative to spring.
- Function: alter the clamp/stack orientation so axle sits lower relative to chassis.
- Drop spindle / drop axle sections or relocateperches (if kit relocates spring perch) — solid brackets that reattach the spring perch in a lower position.
- Function: moves the anchor point down, permanently lowering the frame.
- New U-bolts and nuts — heavy grade bolts sized to fit around the axle housing, usually supplied with the kit.
- Function: clamp axle, spring pack and lowering block together.
- Hanger brackets / shackle relocation plates — for swinging/leaf spring hangers, allow repositioning the front and rear spring hooks.
- Function: maintain spring alignment and free movement after repositioning.
- Interlocking pins or alignment dowels — keep plates aligned.
- Extended or relocated brake line brackets / fittings — maintain correct routing and length to avoid tension when axle moves.
- Hardware pack — high‑strength bolts, washers, locknuts, anti‑seize or thread locker.
- Instructions and sometimes shims for fine adjustment.
Note: some kits use welded drop axles or different geometry — follow kit definitions.

3) Tools and safety gear
- Tools: jack(s) (floor jack and bottle jack), heavy-duty jack stands or blocks rated for load, torque wrench, breaker bar, socket/wrench set, ratchet, pry bar, hammer, punch, screwdriver set, wire cutters, measuring tape, marker, calipers, torque specifications reference, grease gun, anti-seize compound, thread locker (medium strength).
- Optional: spring compressor (for leaf springs if needed), an impact gun, grinder (if any rust removal/cut required), welder (only for professional/approved mods).
- Safety gear: safety glasses, gloves, steel-toe boots, ear protection.
- Site: level, solid ground, chock the trailer wheels, disconnect PTO/drive shafts if applicable, remove keys and lock out.

4) Preparatory steps (inspect and measure)
- Read kit manual — check drop amount and compatibility (the kit should be made for MF20 or stated compatible).
- Inspect baler: note spring/axle type, brake lines, wiring, wear, cracked spring perches, loose U-bolts, hub play, tire size.
- Measure and record: current ride height (axle to frame), pickup height, tongue height. Decide desired drop (common drops: 1–4 inches; use the kit’s specified drop).
- Chock wheels, lower baler onto stands: place stands under the frame, support axle with jack, and release weight from springs before unbolting.

5) Step-by-step installation (general bolt‑on lowering kit method)
Note: kit specifics vary. Follow kit paper instructions where provided. These steps assume a leaf-spring + axle arrangement typical on small towed balers.

A. Prepare and relieve load
- Back tractor/baler into position on level ground, chock wheels, set parking brake.
- Lower any hydraulic systems, disconnect PTO and safety chains.
- Place heavy-duty jack under axle and lift just enough to relieve spring pressure — don’t lift the whole machine far, just remove load from U-bolts or hangers.
- Support chassis on jack stands positioned under the frame so axle can be worked on safely.

B. Remove wheels and access components
- Remove wheel/tire(s) to give room. If dual wheels, do both sides or as required by kit.
- Clean around spring perch/axle and remove rust, road grime; spray penetrating oil on nuts/bolts and let sit.

C. Unbolt U-bolts / hangers
- Loosen and remove U-bolts that clamp axle to the spring pack. If they are rusted, heat the nut gently with a torch or use penetrating oil and impact tool.
- If the kit uses relocated hangers, unbolt front/rear spring hangers or shackles as needed. Keep parts organized.

D. Install lowering blocks/perches
- Position the lowering block(s) between the axle and spring center plate as instructed (blocks are often two-piece — top and bottom plates that flip orientation to lower axle).
- Ensure alignment dowels or pins seat, and spring center bolts pass through the block.
- If your kit relocates spring perches, bolt the new perch/hanger brackets to the frame in the specified lower location using supplied bolts and locknuts. Use washers as instructed.

E. Reassemble and torque U-bolts/hardware
- Re-seat the axle on the new block. Install new longer U-bolts (if provided) over the axle and through the block and spring plate. Tighten nuts evenly in a crisscross pattern to bring the clamping surfaces together.
- Torque U-bolts to the kit/manufacturer specification. If the kit doesn’t provide a number, torque to a conservative spec for high‑strength grade 8 bolts of the given diameter (but best to source the exact value from manufacturer). Mark nuts after torquing to later check for movement.
- Reattach any shackles/hangers/brackets using new bolts if supplied. Use thread locker only where the kit directs.

F. Re-route or lengthen brake lines / wiring
- Check brake lines, hoses and electrical wires for slack and clearance. Fit supplied brake-line brackets/extension pieces so hoses are not stretched at full droop or bind at full compression. Replace any hoses with cracks or bulges.

G. Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts
- Put wheel(s) back on, snug lug nuts in star pattern. Lower jack stands, seat suspension under nominal load, and torque lug nuts to wheel manufacturer spec.

H. Final torque and checks
- With baler on level surface and normal load, torque U-bolt nuts and any hanger bolts to spec again. If unknown, recheck kit manual or use recommended torque for installed bolt grades. Mark and record.
- Check axle alignment, wheel toe if applicable.
- Check tire-to-frame/wheel-well clearances at full droop and full compression (jack wheel down and compress springs).

6) Testing and break-in
- Slowly tow the baler a short distance (walking speed) and stop; recheck all nuts, U-bolts, brackets and fluid lines.
- Re-torque U-bolts and lug nuts after first 50 miles / 80 km and again after first day of work. Check daily for first week and weekly for first month.
- Load test: pick up a few bales and run at work speed; inspect for rubbing, abnormal vibration, brake pull, or driveline clatter.

7) Troubleshooting — what can go wrong (and how to diagnose/fix)
- U-bolts/nuts loosen or shear: symptom = clunking, sagging. Fix = replace with kit-grade hardware, torque to spec, retorque after break-in.
- Spring binding or rubbing on frame: symptom = binding when wheel moves, abrupt harsh ride. Fix = check hanger alignment, ensure shims/plates are correct, reposition hangers or add shims to create proper arch and clearance.
- Reduced travel / frequent bottoming out: symptom = loud bottoming, transferred shocks to frame/attachments. Fix = raise to less aggressive drop, add limiting straps or bump stops.
- Brake line strain or failure: symptom = leaking or abnormal pedal feel, or brake drag. Fix = immediate hose replacement, reposition brackets, ensure hoses aren’t overstretched at full droop.
- Tire rub / chassis contact: symptom = scuff marks on tires or frame, bulging tire. Fix = increase clearance or reduce wheel offset or raise kit choice.
- Increased axle or spring stress (cracks at perches): symptom = cracks near welded perches or on spring eyes. Fix = stop use, repair using correct welding and reinforcement, consider a different kit or professional assessment — safety critical.
- Driveline/PTO angles changed (if baler has PTO-driven components): symptom = vibration, rapid universal joint wear. Fix = measure driveline angle; use correct-length shafts and angle limiters or raise/lower to acceptable angle. Maintain UJ angle <5° typical depend on component (check driveline spec).
- Misalignment causing tire wear: symptom = uneven wear after short time. Fix = check axle alignment, shims, and toe; correct by repositioning or shimming as needed.

8) Maintenance and monitoring
- Inspect all kit bolts and clamps after each day of initial use, then weekly.
- Check springs and shackles for wear/crack and replace worn parts.
- Grease pivot points if applicable.
- Keep a small log: date, mileage, torque checks, and any noises.

9) Important cautions and limits
- Do not exceed the kit’s design drop or modify with welded-on parts unless a qualified fabricator and engineering calculation supports it.
- Lowering changes load paths; over-lowering beyond design may void warranties and create unsafe conditions.
- If you see structural cracks, bent axles, or brake issues, cease use and have a qualified technician repair it.
- Always use correct grade hardware and safety devices — cutting corners here is dangerous.

Analogy wrap-up
- Think of the baler like a person changing shoe soles: lowering is like swapping to thinner soles. You get closer to the ground and different stride geometry — it can make walking feel better for some tasks but increases the chance of stubbed toes and worn knees. Do the swap deliberately, measure how it changes your posture (geometry), and test slowly until comfortable.

Final practical checklist before first full field use
- All hardware torqued and marked
- Brake lines/wiring have slack at full droop and no contact at full compression
- Tires clear frame at both extremes
- Wheels torqued to spec and retorqued after 50 miles
- Visual inspection for cracks or deformation
- Short test tow, then load test, then recheck

That’s the full beginner-friendly picture: why lowering kits exist, what parts they include, how they change geometry, step-by-step installation flow, safety and tools, what commonly goes wrong and how to fix or avoid it. Follow the kit instructions and MF20 service manual where available, and if you hit a cracked or damaged structure or uncertain driveline geometry, stop and get a professional to inspect.
rteeqp73

Silaging in Snowdonia - Baling. Great little farm with wonderful family, kind and friendly. Baling by contractor, carting by MF 135 and a neighbour with his MF 5445.

How to fix / troubleshoot / repair baler knotters

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- Safety (read first)
- Disconnect tractor PTO, remove ignition key, and chock wheels before working on baler.
- Wear gloves, eye protection, and steel-toe boots.
- Support the baler frame with blocks or jack stands if you must go under or remove heavy parts.
- Release stored energy (springs, tensioners) slowly and secure parts so they cannot snap back.
- Work on a firm, level surface and keep bystanders away.

- What “lifters” means on an MF20 (short)
- “Lifters” commonly refers to the pickup/tine lifter assembly (the mechanism that lifts/pivots pickup or tines) and the bale kicker/ejector lifter. Both use pins, bushes, springs, and lever arms. The steps below cover inspection, removal, replacement and adjustment for those lifter-type components.

- Tools — basic (what they are and how to use them)
- Combination wrench set (open and boxed end): Used to hold or turn nuts and bolts. Use the boxed end to avoid rounding fasteners. Choose the correct size to fit the bolt head and pull steady, not jerky.
- Socket set with ratchet and extensions: Faster turning of nuts/bolts in tight spaces. Use correct socket size; long extension reaches pins deep in the frame.
- Torque wrench: Ensures critical fasteners are tightened to spec (prevents overtightening or loose pins). Set to manufacturer torque where specified.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips): Remove small screws, guards, and fasteners. Use the right tip size to avoid stripping.
- Pliers (slip-joint, needle-nose): Pull cotter pins, clips and hold small parts. Needle-nose for tight spots.
- Hammer and drift punch (steel punch): Drive out pins or loosen stuck parts. Use light taps first; steady blows to avoid damage.
- Punch / center punch: Start removal of roll pins by aligning and tapping them out.
- Pry bar / large screwdriver: Gentle leverage to free stuck parts or separate bushings; use carefully to avoid bending.
- Wire cutters / snips: Cut retaining wire ties or old safety wire.
- Grease gun: Lubricate pivots and bearings during reassembly. Use fittings on greaseable pins.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster): Spray on rusted pins/fasteners and let soak before attempting removal.
- Shop rags and small container: Keep parts organized and wiped clean; container prevents loss of small clips.
- Safety gear (gloves, eye protection, ear protection): Protect yourself from flying debris, grease, and noise.
- Wooden blocks and jack stands: Support baler or heavy assemblies while working; never rely on jacks alone.

- Tools — extra/optional but recommended (why they are required)
- Impact wrench (air or electric): Speeds removal of stubborn nuts; helpful if bolts are seized. Use with care to avoid over-torquing when reassembly.
- Hydraulic jack or bottle jack: Makes lifting heavy parts easier and safer when removing assemblies.
- Bearing/puller or slide hammer: Needed if lifter pivots use pressed-in bearings or bushings that must be extracted.
- Bench vise: Hold small parts for pressing in bushings or cleaning.
- Replacement pins and bushings kit (if available): Saves time and ensures correct fit versus reusing worn pins.
- Multimeter (if kicker has electrical sensors/solenoids): Diagnose faults in kicker sensor circuits.

- Preliminary inspection (what to look for)
- Visual: Bent or broken lifter arms, missing or loose retaining clips, severely worn or ovalized pins, cracked welds, broken springs, missing tines.
- Play: Wiggle lifter arm at the pivot; excessive side-to-side movement indicates worn bushings or pins.
- Operation: Manually operate the pickup and kicker. If motion is rough, sticky, or binds, check for rust, dirt, or damaged bearings.
- Springs: Check for stretched, broken or weak return springs (compare tension to the opposite side).
- Fasteners: Look for loose or missing nuts/bolts that secure the lifter assembly or guards.

- Removal of lifter assembly (general safe method)
- Prepare: Park baler, shut off tractor and remove PTO, chock wheels.
- Clean: Spray penetrating oil on pivot pins and joints; let soak 10–20 minutes.
- Support: Place wooden blocks/jack stands under the frame or the lifter assembly to support weight when pins are removed.
- Remove guards: Use screwdrivers/sockets to remove shields that block access to pivot pins.
- Remove retaining clips/cotter pins: Use pliers/wire cutters to extract cotter pins or R-clips; place in container.
- Drive out pivot pins: Use punch and hammer to tap the pivot pin out from the retaining side. Hold the assembly so it does not drop once the pin clears.
- Extract springs/small parts: Note orientation and order; photograph if unsure. Remove springs and store them separately.
- Remove assembly: With pins out and supported, slide the lifter arm or pickup assembly off the mount.

- Cleaning and inspection off the machine
- Clean all parts with rags and a degreaser; inspect pins for wear and scoring.
- Measure pin diameter and bushing ID if possible; ovalization or clearance beyond spec means replacement.
- Check bushings for cracking or movement; pressed-in bushings that wobble must be replaced.
- Inspect spring hooks and holes for elongation or deformation.

- Replacement parts that may be required (what, why)
- Pivot pins (replace if worn, bent, or scored): Pins take shear/load; a worn pin causes play and misalignment leading to faster wear and failure.
- Bushings/bearings (replace if worn or loose): Worn bushings cause slop and poor operation; replace with correct bronze/steel bushings or sealed bearings.
- Springs (replace if stretched, broken, or weak): Weak springs fail to return lifter properly; replace with OEM-equivalent spring.
- Retaining clips/cotter pins (always replace): Cheap, but must be replaced to secure reassembly.
- Lifter arm or mounting bracket (replace if bent/cracked): Bent arms change pickup height and can tear tines or pack plunger.
- Pickup tines (replace missing or broken tines): Broken tines reduce pickup efficiency and cause uneven feeding.
- Grease fittings (zerk) and grease lines (replace if blocked): Ensure pivots can be lubricated.
- Shields/guards (replace if damaged): Guards protect people and keep debris out of mechanisms.
- Note: Use OEM part numbers when possible or exact-dimension replacements. If possible, bring the old pin/bushing to supplier to match diameter/length.

- Installation / reassembly (general)
- Clean and grease: Lightly grease new pins and bushing bores before insertion; if using pressed-in bushings, ensure correct interference fit or use a bushing tool.
- Install bushings bearings first: Press in new bushings using a vise or appropriate driver; ensure flush seating.
- Position assembly: Align lifter arm to the frame, support with blocks so it won’t drop when pin is inserted.
- Insert pivot pin: Use hammer/punch gently and drive straight; check alignment. Replace any washers or spacers in the original order.
- Secure fasteners: Fit new cotter pins/R-clips and bend cotter pins over to retain.
- Torque nuts: Use torque wrench to spec for any threaded fasteners (refer to MF20 manual for values) to ensure correct preload.
- Reconnect springs: Hook return springs in original orientation and preload as required.
- Reinstall guards and shields.
- Grease all grease fittings until fresh grease appears at the joints.
- Reconnect PTO and test operation slowly: With tractor off but baler accessible, manually cycle (or slowly run) to observe for binding, unusual noises, or misalignment.

- Adjustment and final checks
- Check pickup height and ride: Adjust its lift stops or linkage so pickup tines contact ground appropriately (consult manual for recommended height).
- Check kicker timing/operation: Ensure bale ejector activates at the correct point; adjust trip cams/links per manual.
- Re-check fasteners after first few bales: Vibration can loosen new assemblies—retorque as needed.
- Lubrication schedule: Grease pivots and check bushings/springs frequently during the season.

- Quick signs you must replace parts vs adjust/clean
- Replace: Pin diameter reduced, pins bent, bushings loose in their bore, cracked/broken arms, springs broken, tines missing.
- Adjust/clean: Dirt buildup, minor surface rust, slightly stiff movement cured by lubrication, loose clips or minor misalignment.

- Practical tips for a beginner
- Label parts and take photos during disassembly to ensure correct reassembly order.
- Use replacement cotter pins and R-clips every time—they are cheap insurance.
- Carry penetrating oil and a small heater or blowtorch to gently free very seized pins (heat the surrounding metal, not the pin directly; use caution).
- If a pressed-in bushing looks original and is hard to remove, consider taking the part to a local mechanic/tractor shop for bushing replacement to avoid damaging the housing.

- Final note (short)
- If any component is severely damaged or you’re unsure about replacing pressed-in bearings/bushings, have a qualified tractor shop press/fit parts. Replacing worn pins and bushings fixes most lifter play issues and restores safe, reliable operation.
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