Quick note: the Massey‑Ferguson MF20 baler is a towed implement and does not have its own engine air intake the way a tractor does. If you actually mean the engine air‑filter housing on the tractor that runs the baler, or an aftermarket/auxiliary dust filter fitted to the baler, the parts and procedure below apply the same way. I’ll describe every common component, how the system works, why you need the repair, what can go wrong, and step‑by‑step how to service or replace the air‑filter housing and elements. No fluff.

What an air‑filter housing is and why it matters (plain language + analogy)
- Purpose: the housing holds the filter element that keeps dust, dirt and crop debris out of an engine’s intake (or out of any small blower/air‑actuated device). Think of the filter as a face mask for the engine and the housing as the mask’s frame and straps that make it sit tight and seal.
- Why repair/replace: if the housing is cracked, warped, or its seal/clamp fails, unfiltered air bypasses the filter. Unfiltered air acts like sandpaper inside the engine (pistons, rings, valves, bearings) and causes wear, poor combustion, loss of power, increased fuel use and premature failure.
- Analogy for how it cleans air: filters use sieving (paper pleats), impaction/inertia (bigger particles crash into surfaces), and sometimes centrifugal pre‑cleaners (spin dust out like a salad spinner). A clogged filter is like trying to breathe through a thick sweater – the engine works harder.

Main components (detailed descriptions)
1. Outer cover / lid
- Function: seals and protects the filter element; often removable by wing nut, clamp or bolts.
- Common wear points: cracked plastic, stripped threads, warped mating surface.

2. Filter element(s)
- Paper (pleated) element: radial pleats of treated paper. Removes fine dust by trapping particles in the paper fibers. Fragile; avoid washing.
- Foam element: open‑cell foam that is normally oiled to capture dust. Saturated oil traps particles; can be washed and re‑oiled.
- Oil‑bath element (older systems): a sump of oil holds the filter surface; air passes through oil film which captures dirt.
- Inner metal support cage: thin perforated metal that supports the filter so it won’t collapse under suction.

3. Pre‑cleaner / cyclone (if fitted)
- Function: spins incoming air so heavy particles fling out to a collection bowl; reduces load on the main filter.
- Parts: inlet trumpet/snorkel, cyclone housing, debris bowl or drain, mounting clamps.

4. Housing body (main bowl)
- Function: holds element, provides flange for intake hose and mounting points.
- Problem areas: cracks where hose clamps attach, broken mounting ears.

5. Inlet snorkel / intake hose / ducting
- Function: brings outside air to the filter. May be flexible rubber or molded plastic.
- Common faults: splits, perished rubber, loose clamps causing leaks.

6. Gasket / sealing flange / O‑ring
- Function: ensure airtight seal between cover and housing. Typically a rubber lip or flat gasket.
- Failure mode: hardened, compressed or missing gasket → bypass.

7. Clamps / wing nuts / studs
- Function: secure the cover. If loose or missing, cover won’t seal.
- Check for stripped studs, missing nuts or damaged clamp levers.

8. Drain / sump (oil‑bath or cyclone)
- Function: allow removed dirt/oil to be emptied.
- Problems: clogged drain, corroded plug.

9. Mounting brackets / vibration isolators
- Function: attach housing to machine and isolate vibration.
- Problems: broken brackets letting housing chafe or shift, causing leaks.

10. Airflow meter / sensor (modern systems; rare on old MF20)
- If present, ensure connectors aren’t fouled.

Theory of operation (how air travels and is cleaned)
- Air path: outside → snorkel → pre‑cleaner/cyclone (optional) → housing → filter element → inner cage → outlet to carburetor/intake manifold.
- Particle removal:
- Large particles: removed by the pre‑cleaner/cyclone or trapped on outer face of foam.
- Medium particles: captured by impaction on paper fibers or foam pockets.
- Fine particles: trapped by depth of paper element or by oil film in foam/oil bath.
- Pressure drop: as filter loads with dust, flow resistance increases (engine sees vacuum at intake), lowering performance. A gauge (if present) measures this as differential pressure.

Common symptoms that tell you the housing/element needs attention
- Reduction in engine power, especially under load.
- Increased fuel consumption.
- Sooty plugs, black exhaust (rich mixture from poor airflow).
- Unusual engine wear or noisy valve/train (from abrasive particles).
- Visible dirt build‑up around housing seams or inside the ducting.
- Cracked housing, missing clamps, oil/dirty drain filled.

Tools and materials you’ll need
- Replacement filter element (correct type and part number for your machine/tractor) or foam & filter oil if reusing element.
- Set of screwdrivers, socket set, pliers, adjustable wrench.
- Soft brush, lint‑free rag, shop vacuum (optional).
- Low‑pressure compressed air (blow from clean side out only; no more than ~20–30 psi) — use sparingly with paper elements OR avoid if element says no compressed air.
- Mild detergent, warm water, and solvent for foam elements (if reusable).
- Rubber grease (silicone grease) for seals/gaskets.
- Replacement clamps, gaskets, or housing parts if cracked.
- Safety: gloves, eye protection, dust mask if cleaning dirty element.

Step‑by‑step procedure to service/repair the air‑filter housing (beginner friendly)
1. Safety first
- Park tractor/vehicle on level ground, engine off, keys removed, allow engine to cool. Wear gloves and eye protection. Work in dry, low‑wind area to avoid blowing dust into clean components.

2. Visual inspection
- Inspect the whole assembly: cover, clamps, snorkel, hoses, gasket, and mounting. Look for cracks, brittle rubber, missing fasteners or heavy oil/dirt build up.
- If you see cracks in the plastic housing or split rubber hoses, plan to replace those parts rather than try to jury‑rig.

3. Remove cover and element
- Loosen wing nut/clamp/bolts and lift the cover straight up. Note orientation — most elements only fit one way.
- Remove the filter element and inner cage. Inspect for tears, crushed pleats, oil contamination or holes. If the paper element is heavily caked with dust, replace it. Foam can often be cleaned and re‑oiled.

4. Clean housing and snorkel
- Use a rag and shop vacuum to remove bulk dust from housing and snorkel. Don’t push dirt into the intake outlet.
- If you have a pre‑cleaner bowl or oil‑sump, empty and clean it.

5. Inspect and repair housing parts
- Gasket/lip: if hardened or cracked, replace or apply a thin coat of silicone grease to soften and seal.
- Clamps/studs: replace stripped studs and missing fasteners. Small metal epoxy or local machine shop can replace broken mounting studs.
- Cracked housing: if small plastic crack, a proper replacement housing is best. Temporary repairs: epoxy or steel banding may hold, but do not accept long‑term — patches can fail and allow bypass.

6. Service the filter element
- Paper element: tap gently to dislodge large dust outside the pleats. If only lightly dusty it can be reused; if soiled, oily or damaged, replace. Never wash a paper element unless manufacturer explicitly allows it.
- Foam element: wash in warm water with mild detergent, rinse, let dry, then saturate with the recommended filter oil (squeeze out excess). A properly oiled foam should be tacky but not dripping.
- Oil‑bath: drain and clean the sump, refill to correct level with recommended oil.

7. Inspect the intake hose and clamps
- Replace perished rubber hoses and tighten or replace clamps. A split intake hose is a common source of unfiltered air.

8. Reassemble and seal
- Place the element in exactly the same orientation, ensure inner cage seats correctly, and the gasket is clean and properly seated.
- Apply a thin film of silicone grease to gaskets to ensure a good seal (don’t use petroleum grease where it can contaminate rubber).
- Refit cover and tighten clamps until snug — tighten evenly to compress gasket but do not over tighten and warp the housing.

9. Test
- Start engine, listen for whistling or leaks at the housing seams or intake hose. Use a rag to feel for suction around joints (careful of moving parts).
- Operate under load (tow baler, run at working RPM) and check for improved performance and no leaks.

What can go wrong — specific failure modes and how to avoid them
- Housing crack or broken mount → unfiltered air bypasses filter. Fix: replace housing/mount, do not rely on tape long‑term.
- Missing or hardened gasket → air leak at seam. Fix: replace gasket or lube with silicone grease.
- Improperly seated element or upside‑down element → bypass or collapse. Fix: always seat and check orientation.
- Over‑oiling foam element → oil can contaminate MAF sensors (if present) or carburetor. Use recommended amount and spin out excess.
- Using compressed air on paper element from outside in → it embeds dust deeper. If you must use compressed air, blow gently from clean side out at low pressure and keep distance.
- Clogged pre‑cleaner drain → heavy particles return to intake area instead of draining away. Clean drains regularly.
- Reusing a damaged paper element → tiny tears allow fine dust through. Replace damaged elements.
- Tightening clamps unevenly → warped lid, bad seal. Tighten evenly.

Service intervals and signs to schedule replacement
- Typical guidance: inspect air filter every 50–100 operating hours in dusty conditions, change paper element every 200–400 hours or sooner if dirty. Foam elements: clean and re‑oil roughly every 50–100 hours in heavy dust.
- If you operate in very dusty hayfields (MF20’s work), service much more often — evenings of baling can load the filter fast.

Quick checklist for a reliable repair job
- Replace any cracked or perished housing parts; don’t patch long‑term.
- Replace paper elements that are caked, torn or oil‑soaked.
- Clean and re‑oil reusable foam correctly.
- Ensure inlet hose and clamps are tight and undamaged.
- Replace or reseal gaskets; use silicone grease on rubber lips.
- Tighten cover/clamp evenly; check for leaks with engine running.
- Keep a spare element and a basic repair kit (hose clamps, small gasket) with you during fieldwork.

Bottom line
- The air‑filter housing is critical. A small crack or missing gasket equals unfiltered air and rapid wear. Inspect visually, change elements and replace damaged housings promptly. If the MF20 you’re working on truly has a baler‑mounted dust filter, treat it exactly as above — the principles do not change.
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Baling Hay With MF 135, MF 20 Baler and the IH B414 on the Rower. 2011 Here is a video of us baling hay on a very windy day. Someone had to go infront with the rower as the hay just blew away if not.

Massey 128 knotter rebuild (part 1) Rebuilding my Massey Ferguson 128 square baler knotter.

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Tools & consumables
- Basic hand tools: ratchet set, metric/imperial sockets, combination wrenches, screwdrivers.
- Impact or breaker bar (for stubborn nuts).
- Puller set (2– or 3‑jaw) or hydraulic press for gears/sprockets.
- Bearing/seal puller and installer.
- Torque wrench (cover range appropriate to machine bolts).
- Dial indicator with magnetic base (for measuring backlash/axial endplay).
- Feeler gauges and calipers.
- Chain breaker/riveter (if changing sprockets or chain).
- Punches, drift, hammer, soft mallet.
- Clean rags, degreaser, anti-seize, gear oil/grease, replacement gasket sealant.
- New parts as required: sprockets/gears (correct tooth counts and pitch), roller chain (correct pitch and roller width), shaft keys, locknuts, bearings, seals, shims, fasteners.
- Personal protective equipment: gloves, eye protection, steel‑toe boots.

Safety first (do this every time)
1. Park on level ground, engage park brake, chock wheels.
2. Shut down tractor, remove key, disconnect any battery power to baler (if applicable).
3. Remove PTO from tractor and isolate driveline—do not work with PTO connected or with implements able to rotate.
4. Support the baler safely with stands; do not rely on jacks alone.
5. Ensure all shields are removed only when working and replaced before testing.
6. Wear PPE. Keep hands clear of pinch points. Follow lockout/tagout best practices.

Overview of what “gear ratio adjustment” means
- On an MF20 baler you change output speed (pickup/feeder/roller speed) relative to tractor PTO by changing sprockets or gears in the drive train or by swapping gear cluster components in the gearbox/drop box. Adjustment is either:
- Simple sprocket swap (most common): change driver or driven sprocket tooth count or chain length.
- Gear cluster change (if fitted with change gears): remove and replace gears/shafts and set proper mesh/backlash.

Step‑by‑step procedure — sprocket/chain type (most common, simplest)
1. Document current setup
- Count and record teeth on driver and driven sprockets, measure chain pitch and width, note chain wrap and tensioning arrangement. Photograph for reference.
- Calculate current ratio: driven teeth ÷ driver teeth = speed ratio (output RPM = PTO RPM × ratio).

2. Decide desired ratio
- Use tooth count math: swapping driven sprocket from 40T to 36T reduces output speed; swapping driver from 16T to 14T increases output speed. Keep chain pitch identical.
- Ensure new sprockets are same pitch and compatible with existing chain and shaft bore.

3. Prepare machine
- Remove shields, loosen chain guard, and place container for small parts.
- If chain is riveted type, use chain breaker to open chain; otherwise loosen master link.

4. Remove old sprockets
- Remove retaining nuts/bolts, remove locking plate or key. Use puller if the sprocket is pressed on. Mark orientation of keyway/shaft relative to sprocket.
- Inspect shaft, keyway, and key. Replace key if rounded or loose.

5. Inspect and replace wear items
- Inspect chain for elongation and sprocket tooth wear (hooked or thin teeth). Replace chain and sprockets in pairs if wear present.
- Replace bearings and seals if play or leakage detected.

6. Install new sprockets
- Clean shaft and bore, coat lightly with anti‑seize if recommended, and slide sprocket on with new key. Press/drive on solidly but avoid damaging the bore.
- Torque the hub nut to factory spec (consult manual). If spec unavailable, torque progressively and secure with locking device.

7. Refit chain and set tension
- Reinstall chain, reconnect master link or rivet.
- Set chain tension per spec — generally a small amount of sag in mid‑span is required; too tight = premature bearing/shaft wear, too loose = skip/jump.
- If adjustable idler used, set idler so chain wraps correctly and clears all guards.

8. Test run & final checks
- Replace shields. Reconnect PTO. Conduct a low‑speed test with baler off the crop load. Listen for abnormal noises.
- Check for oil leaks, hot bearings, and chain alignment. Use a dial indicator to verify sprocket runout if vibration present.
- Under light load, observe pickup/feed rates to confirm desired change.

Step‑by‑step — internal gearbox / change gear cluster (more advanced)
1. Refer to factory shop manual for disassembly sequence and torque specs.
2. Drain gearbox oil into a clean container; keep for inspection. Remove cover and mark gear positions.
3. Measure and record existing gear tooth counts and positions. Photograph every step.
4. Remove shafts and retaining circlips/bolts. Use a puller or press for gears that are tight on shafts.
5. Inspect gear teeth, bearings, journal surfaces, and replace bearings/seals as needed.
6. Select replacement gears to achieve desired ratio; ensure teeth module/pitch and face width match.
7. When installing new gears, set axial positions using shims where required. Use dial indicator to measure backlash between mating gears and adjust shims to achieve specified backlash.
- Typical backlash for small spur/helical gearbox ranges from 0.01–0.05 mm per mm of module; follow manual. Too little backlash causes binding and noise; too much causes shock loading and rapid wear.
8. Rebuild with new gaskets/seals, refill with correct grade and quantity of gearbox oil.
9. Torque all fasteners to spec and conduct bench rotation tests before refitting.

How to use the key tools (concise)
- Gear/shaft puller: attach jaws evenly around gear, center forcing screw on shaft end, tighten gradually. If gear won’t budge, apply penetrating oil and heat the gear (not the shaft) with a torch briefly, then reattempt.
- Dial indicator: mount on stable bracket so tip contacts gear tooth flank or gear boss; rotate gear and record total backlash or runout. Use shim adjustments until backlash falls in spec.
- Chain breaker/riveter: align link pin in punch, compress until pin pops, reassemble with master link or rivet replacement pin per tool instructions.
- Bearing puller/press: extract bearing inner race using correct jaws or press; when installing, press on the race that’s stationary relative to the load (follow bearing installation practice).

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Wrong pitch sprocket/chain: always match chain pitch and roller width. Mixing pitches destroys sprockets and chain quickly.
- Using worn chain with new sprockets (or vice versa): results in rapid failure. Replace both if wear evident.
- Incorrect key or reusing a damaged key: always install a new key; battered keys cause slippage and fretting.
- Poor gear mesh/backlash settings: not setting backlash properly leads to overheating, noise, and early gear failure—use dial indicator and follow spec.
- Over‑tightening chain: leads to bearing/shaft damage. Under‑tensioned chain: skips and poor pickup timing.
- Not replacing seals: after disassembly, always replace seals and gaskets to avoid leaks.
- Skipping safety steps: working with PTO connected or unsupported machine is dangerous.
- Not re‑torquing bolts after initial run: some fasteners may settle; recheck torque after first hour of operation.

Replacement parts commonly required when changing ratio
- Sprockets (driver/driven) — correct tooth count and pitch.
- Roller chain (matching pitch and width).
- Shaft keys and retaining hardware (nuts, lockwashers, split pins).
- Bearings and oil seals (if removed/inspected).
- Shims (for gearbox backlash/axial spacing).
- Gaskets / RTV sealant for gearbox covers.
- Fasteners if corrosion/damage present.

Final commissioning
- Run baler at low PTO rpm first, check oil levels after warm‑up, re‑torque critical fasteners, and then test on light crop. Observe pickup speed, bale density and tie timing — changes in gear ratio will affect all these functions, so ensure baler operates safely and produces acceptable bales before full field use.

Notes & limits
- Exact tooth counts, torque values, backlash specs and oil types are model‑specific. If you have the MF20 parts manual or service manual, use it for final specs. If uncertain, replace worn components rather than reusing suspect parts.

Done.
rteeqp73