- Safety first
- Disconnect tractor PTO and remove ignition key; never work with PTO engaged.
- Chock wheels and block baler so it cannot roll or move.
- Wear gloves, eye protection, and close-toed shoes.
- Work with guards removed only while the machine is off and keys are out; reinstall guards before running.
- If you are under the machine or working on raised parts, support securely with stands — never rely on hydraulics alone.

- Tools required (each tool described and how to use it)
- Socket set with ratchet (3/8" and 1/2" drive, metric and SAE sockets)
- Use to remove and install hex-head bolts and nuts on guards, pulleys and tensioners. Choose socket that fits snugly, pull the ratchet toward you for better control and to avoid slipping.
- Combination wrenches (open/box-end, metric and SAE sizes)
- Use where a socket cannot reach or to hold a nut while turning a bolt. Use the box end for better grip on fasteners; pull toward you rather than pushing.
- Breaker bar
- Use for stuck or very tight bolts that a ratchet cannot break loose. Apply steady even force; do not use cheater pipes on handles beyond design.
- Torque wrench (click-type, suitable range e.g., 10–150 ft·lb)
- Re-tighten critical bolts to proper torque. If you don't have exact torque specs, tighten securely but avoid over-torquing; use manual specs when available.
- Adjustable wrench
- Handy for odd-size bolts or holding parts; less precise than fixed wrenches so use only when needed.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- Remove small screws, hose clamps, or pry small covers; use the correct tip to avoid rounding heads.
- Pliers (slip-joint, needle-nose) and locking pliers (Vise-Grips)
- Grip cotter pins, wire ties, or stubborn clips. Needle-nose for reaching confined spots; locking pliers hold parts while you work.
- Cold chisel and hammer
- Tap stuck shafts or shift parts gently; use carefully to avoid damage.
- Pry bar / long screwdriver
- Move a tensioner or shift belt over a pulley. Use leverage carefully; support the part you are prying.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster)
- Spray on rusted bolts to free them; let soak before attempting removal.
- Wire brush and rags
- Clean mating surfaces and pulleys before installing the new belt.
- Shop jack or small floor jack and jack stands (only if you must lift the baler to access parts)
- Use stands to secure the baler if lifted. Never work under unsupported load.
- Belt tension gauge (optional but recommended)
- Provides correct belt tension reading. If unavailable, use deflection method described below.
- Pulley/gear puller and bearing puller (may be required)
- Needed if you must remove pulleys or bearings. They grip the pulley and pull it off the shaft evenly; required if pulleys are tight or rusted.
- Bearing press or arbor press (may be required)
- Needed to press new bearings into pulleys or housings without damaging them. If you don’t have one, a machine shop can press bearings for you.

- Materials and replacement parts you may need (why and how to identify)
- Replacement drive belt (serpentine/multi-rib or V-belt depending on your baler)
- Why: old belts crack, glaze, lose ribs or stretch and will slip or break. Identify by reading the stamp on the old belt (length and profile), measuring its outer circumference, or checking the MF20 parts manual/parts dealer with your baler serial number. Bring the old belt to the parts store if unsure.
- Idler pulley(s) and tensioner assembly
- Why: pulleys with worn grooves, flat spots, or rough bearings will shorten belt life and cause noise/slippage. Replace if pulleys wobble, feel rough when spun by hand, or have excessive play.
- Bearings (idler/pulley bearings or main bearings)
- Why: noisy or rough bearings can seize, damage shafts, and ruin a new belt. Replace if pulleys or shafts do not spin freely or have play.
- Fasteners, keys, cotter pins, hose clamps, and safety guards
- Why: damaged or missing hardware compromises safe operation. Replace any stripped or corroded fasteners.
- Belt guards and mounting brackets (if damaged)
- Why: damaged guards expose rotating parts and risk injury; always reinstall intact guards.
- Grease and anti-seize
- Why: re-grease accessible grease fittings and apply anti-seize to bolts to help future removal.

- Signs that replacement parts (other than belt) are required
- Pulley wobble or axial play when spun by hand.
- Grinding, rumbling, or roughness in pulleys or shaft bearings.
- Visible grooves worn into pulley surfaces or broken/missing pulley flanges.
- Bolts that won’t tighten or stripped threads — replace fasteners or repair threads.
- Belt dust accumulation, glazing on a new belt after short use (indicates misalignment or bad pulley).

- Preparatory steps (what to do before removing belt)
- Park the tractor and baler on level ground; chock wheels and disconnect PTO shaft.
- Clean area around guards so bolts aren’t contaminated; spray penetrating oil on stubborn bolts and let soak.
- Locate belt routing diagram on the baler or in the manual; take a clear photo of current belt routing if available.
- Gather tools and replacement belt and lay them out within reach.

- Removal of old belt (general procedure for a beginner)
- Remove belt guards: use sockets/wrenches and screwdrivers; keep bolts and clips organized.
- Locate the tensioner or idler pulley that provides belt tension.
- Release tension: use a pry bar or the appropriate wrench on the tensioner pivot bolt to move the tensioner away from the belt; hold it back or use a locking tool so it stays released.
- Slip the belt off the smallest/most accessible pulley first, then remove from the rest of the pulleys and take the belt out.
- Inspect the routing and note any guides or shims used; take a photo for reference.

- Inspect components after removal
- Spin each pulley by hand: smooth, free spin = OK; grinding/noise = bearing replacement needed.
- Shake pulley axles for side-to-side play; any play usually means new bearings or pulley replacement.
- Inspect pulley grooves and faces for scoring, wear, rust, or flattening.
- Check shafts and keyways for wear and clean them with a wire brush.
- Inspect guard mounting points and fasteners; replace damaged hardware.

- Installing the new belt
- Confirm belt profile and length match old belt or manual specification.
- Route new belt according to diagram or the photo you made. Start by looping belt around largest pulleys first and finish at the tensioner.
- Move tensioner back into position: use pry bar/wrench to move tensioner to allow belt to seat, then let it apply tension.
- If tensioner is adjustable with a lock nut, set initial tension per manual or use deflection method:
- Deflection method (no gauge): press midpoint of longest run with moderate finger pressure and allow about 1/2"–1" of deflection per foot of span; if you have a belt gauge, set to manufacturer spec.
- Visually check belt sits square in all pulley grooves and tracks correctly; pulleys must be aligned so belt runs straight.

- Reassembly and final checks
- Tighten fasteners for tensioner and pulley bolts; use torque wrench if you have torque specs. Otherwise tighten firmly but avoid over-tightening.
- Reinstall guards and any removed shields; replace any damaged guards.
- Rotate the driveline by hand (turn the flywheel or rotate pulley) to check for binding, interference, or misalignment. Use gloves and keep hands clear of pinch points.
- Reconnect PTO shaft with tractor off, but do not start tractor yet if possible.
- With PTO disconnected initially, try to turn components by hand to check for smooth motion.
- Start the tractor, engage PTO at low speed and observe belt for proper tracking, noise, and vibration for a short test run. Keep distance and stop immediately if anything looks or sounds wrong.
- Recheck belt tension after a short run; new belts can seat and stretch slightly, so retension if needed.

- If a pulley or bearing must be replaced (why a specialist tool might be needed)
- Pulley or bearing replacement reasons: noisy bearings, pulleys with worn grooves or cracks, shaft damage.
- Why a pulley/ bearing puller is required: pulleys are often press-fit on shafts; a puller extracts them evenly without bending or damaging shaft or pulley.
- Why a bearing press is required: proper installation of new bearings requires even pressure; hammering can damage the bearing race. If you don’t have a press, a machine shop will press bearings for a reasonable fee.
- If you cannot remove a seized pulley safely with your tools, take the part to a local shop rather than risking damage.

- Belt size identification (quick methods)
- Read the stamped code on the old belt (length and width/profile).
- Measure the belt outer circumference with a tape if the old belt is available — then get the correct profile (V, wrapped, or multi-rib).
- Provide baler model and serial to dealer or consult the MF20 parts manual for exact belt part number.

- Troubleshooting common problems after installation
- Squeal or slip on start: belt too loose, glazed belt, or misaligned pulley. Stop, check tension, alignment, and pulley condition.
- Rapid belt wear: misalignment or one pulley has worn surface; replace bad pulley and align again.
- Belt jumps off: check tracking flanges, worn pulleys, and routing; make sure tensioner is operating.
- Excessive heat: slipping or overloaded drive; check load and belt condition immediately.

- When to call a shop / get professional help
- Pulley or bearing is seized or difficult to remove.
- You lack a puller or press for replacing bearings or pulleys.
- Major shaft damage, bent pulleys, or complex drivetrain issues.
- If you are uncomfortable working with PTO-driven equipment — a shop can safely perform the job.

- Quick checklist to bring to parts store or mechanic (so you get the right parts)
- Old belt or its stamped code.
- Photo of the belt routing and pulley layout.
- Baler model (Massey Ferguson MF20) and serial number if available.
- Measurements of pulley diameters and belt span length if old belt is missing.

- Final safety reminder
- Never operate the baler without guards in place.
- Recheck all fasteners and belt tension after the first few bales; retorque and retension as needed.

- Useful references
- MF20 parts manual or service manual for exact belt part numbers and torque specs — obtain from Massey Ferguson dealer or online parts archives.
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massey ferguson 20 baler balenpers Af gelopen zaterdag de mf 20 pers eens geprobeerd.

Massey Ferguson 124 baler. Knotter trouble fitting a new knotter to Massey baler.

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