Brief summary of what you’re fixing and why
- The stabilizer bar (sway bar/anti-sway link) on an MF20 baler keeps the tongue/drawbar and the baler frame from twisting or swaying relative to each other during field work and transport. If its bushings, pins, or mounts wear or fail you’ll get clunks, uneven loading, hitch misalignment, faster wear of tow/draw components, and a safety risk (tow sway or loss of control).
- Repair = inspect, remove worn components (bushings, pins, brackets), replace or rebuild, reassemble, lubricate, set fastener torque and check alignment. Below I explain each component, how it works (theory), what to check, step‑by‑step procedures, and common failures.

Safety first (non‑negotiable)
- Park on level ground, chock wheels, block baler securely. Disconnect tractor PTO and remove key. Lower pickup and any hydraulic arms to rest on blocks. Never rely on a jack alone; use appropriately rated stands/blocks under the baler frame.
- Wear gloves, eye protection, steel‑toe boots. Use breaker bars, penetrating oil, and correct sockets to avoid slips. If you’re cutting old bushings, wear face shield and use proper tooling.
- If the stabilizer is a structural member or welds are damaged, consult a qualified welder or dealer—do not weld load points without proper procedure.

Theory — how the stabilizer bar system works (simple analogy)
- The stabilizer bar is like a skateboard axle that ties the left and right trucks together: it resists independent motion so the whole unit tracks straight. On the baler it resists yaw/torsion between the hitch/tongue and baler frame, transferring and distributing lateral forces into the frame through the mounts and bushings.
- The bar itself is largely rigid; the flexibility and movement come through bushings and link pins that allow limited relative motion while absorbing shock. Bushings cushion and center the bar, pins transmit shear forces, brackets hold the assembly to the frame, and grease fittings allow wear surfaces to be lubricated.

Main components (detailed descriptions)
- Stabilizer bar (rod/shaft): the solid bar that spans between two mounting points (or between tongue and frame). Carries shear and torsional loads.
- Bushings (rubber, polyurethane, or molded composite): resist metal‑to‑metal contact, provide damping, center the bar in brackets. Often split or two‑piece for replacement.
- Bushing sleeves (inner metal sleeves): steel tube that the bar or pin passes through; provides a hard wearing surface inside the bushing.
- Mounting brackets (frame brackets, clamp straps): bolted to the baler frame or tongue; they hold the bushing and bar in place.
- U‑bolts or clamp plates: clamp the bracket around the bushing/bar if design uses split clamps.
- Link pins/clevises (if bar attaches via links): heavy steel pins that pass through link eyes and bushings and are retained with cotter pins/retaining rings.
- Retaining hardware: cotter pins, hammer lock pins, retaining clips, locknuts, spring washers.
- Grease fittings (zerks): allow grease to be pumped into bushing/sleeve interfaces where present.
- Shims or spacers: used to position the bar correctly and remove side play.
- Fasteners (bolts/nuts): attach brackets to frame; often Grade 8 or high‑tensile on critical parts—replace damaged hardware.

Tools & consumables
- Hand tools: sockets, wrenches, breaker bar, torque wrench, hammer, punch, pliers.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster), grease gun, rags.
- Pry bars, drift punch or pin punch to push pins out.
- Hydraulic jack and stands or heavy cedar blocks.
- Replacement parts: bushings, sleeves, pins, retaining hardware, new bolts/nuts if worn.
- If bushings are pressed in: press or large bench vise, selection of sockets for driving.
- Anti‑seize or thread lock as per service manual.
- Safety gear.

Symptoms that indicate repair is needed
- Clunking or knocking when hitching, during turns, or over rough ground.
- Excessive lateral play at the hitch or tongue.
- Uneven baler tracking or binding when turning.
- Visible wear: cracked/broken bushings, metal‑to‑metal contact, rusted/seized pins, elongated holes in brackets.
- Broken welds, cracked brackets, or loose mounting bolts.

Inspection (before disassembly)
1. Clean area: wipe grease, mud, and crop debris so you can see parts.
2. Visually inspect bushings for cracking, flattened sections, signs of extrusion, or metal contact. Rotate or move bar and look for play.
3. Check pins for wear: measure diameter against new spec or look for mushroomed heads, scoring.
4. Check bracket holes for elongation or cracks.
5. Check grease fittings: are they blocked? Is grease exiting past bushing when pumped?
6. Check mounting bolts and welds for looseness or cracks.
7. Note orientation and any shims or spacers; take photos for reassembly if helpful.

Removal — step‑by‑step (generic; adapt to MF20 layout)
- Goal: remove bar/links safely, keep parts in order for reassembly.
1. Support the baler: block under frame so it won’t shift when the stabilizer is loosened.
2. Loosen and remove nuts/bolts on the mounting brackets holding the clamps but do not fully remove until bar is supported.
3. If the bar goes through the tongue/hitch link and is held by pins, remove retaining clips or cotter pins first. Use three‑jaw pliers or punch to drive out pins. Apply penetrating oil on rusty pins and let soak.
4. Remove U‑bolts or clamp plates and lift brackets away to expose bushings.
5. Slide the bar out of the bushings/sleeves. If bar is stuck, use a block and hammer on the end of the inner sleeve or use pry bars with care to avoid bending the bar.
6. Remove inner sleeves (metal tubes) and pull out old bushings. Some bushings are bonded and must be cut out carefully with a chisel or cut-off wheel; avoid scoring bracket bores excessively.
7. Inspect bracket bores and pin bores for ovality or cracks.

Cleaning and measurement
- Clean all mating surfaces of grease and rust. Wire brush or use emery cloth.
- Measure wear: check inner sleeve diameters, bar diameter, bushing ID/OD if new parts are available. Compare to parts manual. Look for runout or bending on bar—replace if bent.
- Check bracket bolt holes for elongation. If small, you can fit oversize bolts with new plates; if large/cracked, replace bracket or repair by welding (professional).

Mounting new parts (bushing replacement)
1. Fit new inner sleeves into the bushings. If bushings are split, assemble around the sleeve and bar as designed.
2. Lightly grease the outside of the inner sleeve only if the design calls for it; many designs require dry fit or specific grease paths—follow bushing maker/manufacturer instructions. Often grease goes into the zerk to lubricate bushing/bar interface.
3. If bushings are press‑fit into brackets, use a press or large socket/bench vise to press them evenly into the bracket—do not hammer directly on rubber.
4. Slide bar back through bushings/sleeves in the same orientation as removed. Reinstall any spacers/shims exactly as before (photos help).
5. Reinstall clamp plates and U‑bolts; snug hardware just enough to seat components but leave some movement for final alignment.

Pin and hardware install
1. Insert new or cleaned pins through link eyes and bushings. If pins are corroded or worn, replace.
2. Install retaining clips/cotter pins new. Replace any bent or worn washers and locknuts.
3. Torque bracket bolts to factory spec. If you don’t have specs, tighten firmly then back off slightly to avoid preloading rubber bushings—consult manual; for critical fasteners use a torque wrench to published values.
4. Pump grease into grease fittings until grease comes out of relief holes (if present). Wipe excess.

Final tightening and checks
1. With baler supporting normal height (not fully rested on blocks in an unnaturally loaded position), torque all fasteners to spec. This prevents preloading or compressing bushings in the wrong position.
2. Check lateral and vertical play: bar should have minimal free play (a little movement expected depending on design). There should be no metal‑to‑metal rattle.
3. Walk through how the bar moves with the tongue pivot—ensure no binding, and that pins aren’t over‑tight (binding) or too loose (slop).
4. Re‑check cotter pins and locking hardware.

Functional test
- With baler hitched, lift pickup and move baler a short distance at low speed in a safe open area. Listen for knocks and watch tracking. Test turns slowly.
- Re‑inspect bolts and bushings after first 10–20 acres or first few hours of operation and re‑grease as necessary.

Common things that go wrong and how to avoid them
- Replacing bushings without replacing sleeves/pins: sleeve wear will quickly destroy new bushings. Replace mating surfaces together or at least measure and fit.
- Over‑tightening clamp bolts: compresses rubber bushings, causing them to bind and wear prematurely; tighten to spec with bar in normal loaded position.
- Using wrong grease: some bushings require specific grease or should be dry—check manufacturer instructions. Excessive grease can extrude and attract grit.
- Not replacing worn pins: pin diameter reduction causes slop and elongates holes.
- Ignoring cracked brackets/welds: a worn bar concentrates forces into remaining structure and can cause sudden failure—repair welds or replace brackets.
- Improperly retaining pins: reused cotter pins or missing clips can let pins walk out.
- Bending the stabilizer bar during removal: use correct supports and don’t hammer the bar. If bar is bent, replace—don’t try to straighten unless authorized.
- Welding on or altering components without proper heat treatment or design knowledge—can lead to brittle failures.

Maintenance tips to extend life
- Grease regularly (per service schedule) and clean mud/hay off mounts.
- Inspect after every season or after heavy hitting events.
- Replace bushings in pairs and replace worn pins/sleeves when replacing bushings.
- Keep fasteners torqued to spec and use thread locker where recommended.
- Store baler to avoid rust and freeze‑thaw on bushings.

Troubleshooting quick guide
- Clunk on turns: worn bushings or pins, or loose bracket bolts.
- Persistent vibration: unbalanced bar, bent bar, or missing/damaged sleeve.
- Grease not holding: blocked zerks or degraded grease channels, possibly worn sleeve allowing grease to bypass.
- Elongated holes: replace bracket or fit repair plates; check alignment to prevent recurrence.

Notes & cautions about model specifics
- Designs vary by model year and market. Exact part numbers, bolt sizes, and torque specs should be taken from the MF20 parts manual/service manual or dealer tech sheet for your serial number. If in doubt on torque or materials, follow manufacturer data.
- If you find structural cracks, severely corroded components, or complicated weld repairs, involve a professional welder/fabricator or dealer service.

That’s the full, practical rundown: what each part does, why the repair is needed, how to inspect and replace the parts, what tools and safety to use, and common failure modes and fixes.
rteeqp73

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Massey Ferguson MF 20-8 square baler Running as sweet as a sewing machine after refurbishment!

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