Short, direct, step‑by‑step guide to rotating tires on a Massey Ferguson MF20 baler, written for a beginner mechanic. Includes what every related component is and does, why you rotate tires, how the wheel hub/axle system works, and what can go wrong. Follow the safety warnings.

Essentials first — safety and tools
- Safety first: work on level, firm ground. Wear gloves and eye protection. Use jack and jack stands rated well above the weight of the baler axle/wheel (ag equipment is heavy). Never work under an unsupported load. Chock tow vehicle or tractor and the opposite wheel(s).
- Tools: heavy-duty hydraulic jack or axle jack, jack stands, wheel chocks, lug wrench or breaker bar, torque wrench (ft‑lb or N·m), impact wrench (optional), wire brush, rag, penetrating oil, grease gun, shop light, tire pressure gauge, marker/paint, shop manual for torque specs and tire size/direction. Optional: bearing packer, seal driver, replacement bearings/seals if needed.

What each component is and what it does (plain language)
- Tire (rubber): tread, sidewall, bead. Tread grips ground; bead seals to rim. Tires wear unevenly from load, steering, and field conditions.
- Wheel / Rim: metal ring the tire mounts on; bolt pattern matches hub studs. Holds the tire and transfers loads.
- Valve stem: metal or rubber stem for inflating/deflating tire.
- Lug nuts (or wheel nuts) and studs: nuts clamp the wheel to the hub studs (or the studs are on the wheel and nuts on hub, depending). They create clamping force to keep the wheel on.
- Hub: center assembly bolted to axle; contains bearings and (if fitted) brake components; wheel bolts to hub.
- Wheel bearings (cones/cups or bearing cartridges): allow hub/wheel to rotate smoothly on the axle spindle. Typically an inner and an outer bearing, with grease between them.
- Grease seal / dust cap: keeps grease in and contamination out.
- Spindle / axle shaft: the fixed shaft on which the hub and bearings rotate (on a small baler, a single axle beam supports both wheels).
- Brake components (if present): shoes, drum or disc—may exist on baler hubs; inspect if present.
- Axle beam/frame hangers: support the axle/hub.
- Jack, jack stands, chocks, torque wrench: the safety and fastening tools you’ll use.

Theory — why rotate tires and how the system works (analogy included)
- Why rotate: Rotation evens out wear to extend tire life and maintain traction. Even though a pulled baler isn’t “driven,” left/right tires can wear differently due to ruts, uneven vertical load (unequal weight distribution), side loading during turns, field debris, and storage flat‑spotting. Think of shoes: if you always put more weight on one foot, the sole wears faster; swapping shoes front‑to‑back or left‑to‑right evens wear.
- How the wheel system works: the axle/spindle is the stationary part bolted to the frame. Bearings sit on the spindle inside the hub. The hub rotates around the bearings; the wheel bolts to the hub. Lug nuts compress the wheel against the hub to transfer loads. Grease lubricates bearings; seals keep contamination out. If lug nuts aren’t torqued properly, the clamp fails and the wheel can wobble or come off; if bearings fail, the hub heats up and seizes — like a wheel on a shopping cart with a rusty axle.
- Directional tires: Some tires have a tread pattern that must face a specific rolling direction. If present, mark and only swap front‑to‑rear, not reverse direction. If tires are non‑directional, you can swap side‑to‑side.

Before you start — inspection
1. Check tire size, date code, and type (directional arrow). Note any visible damage, cracking, bulges, cuts, nails, or worn areas.
2. Measure and record current tire pressures and tread depths on each tire. Mark a dot on each tire with paint so you can track movement and wear.
3. Inspect hub dust caps, for grease leakage, and for loose or missing lug nuts.
4. Check the baler’s manual for specific torque specs for lug nuts and for bearing service intervals.

Step‑by‑step tire rotation (beginner level)
Note: The MF20 is a small pull‑type baler; the procedure below is standard for two‑ or four‑wheel farm equipment. Adjust for your configuration.

1. Park and secure
- Park on level firm ground, engage tractor parking brake, lower baler pickup, and chock the tow vehicle and remaining wheels to prevent movement.

2. Loosen lug nuts (on ground)
- Slightly loosen lug nuts on the wheel(s) you’re going to remove while the wheel is still on the ground — break them loose 1/4–1/2 turn. Do not remove them yet. This prevents the wheel from spinning while trying to loosen.

3. Lift and support
- Position the jack under the axle housing or a manufacturer‑recommended lift point (not under the rim or tire). Lift enough to remove the wheel.
- Place jack stands under the frame/axle hangers. Lower the baler onto stands so the axle is fully supported by stands, not the jack. Never rely only on the jack.

4. Remove wheel
- Remove lug nuts completely and pull the wheel off the hub. If it’s stuck, strike the back of the tire with a rubber mallet or spray penetrating oil around hub mating surfaces, then rock wheel side‑to‑side.

5. Inspect hub and bearings
- Remove the dust cap if present. Inspect for grease, contamination, or metal flakes.
- Spin the hub by hand: listen/feel for roughness or play. Light resistance and smooth spin = good. Grinding, roughness, or any axial play indicates bearing wear or missing/spread washers.
- Check the seal for grease leakage or heavy dirt ingress. If grease is dirty or leaking, this is a bearing service (repack/replace) rather than just a rotation.
- Clean hub face and studs with wire brush; remove corrosion and deposit so wheel seats flat.

6. Swap tires according to plan
- If you’re swapping left to right: mount wheel from one side to the other keeping the same rotation direction if tires are directional.
- If rotating between axles (front/back on multi-axle units), keep tread direction arrows pointed the same way as original rolling direction — rotate front to rear only on same side unless non‑directional.

7. Reinstall wheel and thread lug nuts
- Slide wheel on hub; ensure it seats flat on hub face. Hand‑thread lug nuts so studs don’t get cross‑threaded.

8. Lower enough to seat wheel
- Lower jack so wheel touches ground just enough that you can snug nuts but not carry full weight (or if on jack stands: lower onto ground if you can safely remove stands). Snug nuts in a star/cross pattern to seat the wheel evenly.

9. Torque lug nuts to spec
- With the wheel bearing fully supporting load (or the vehicle on ground), torque nuts in a crossing/star pattern to the manufacturer’s specified torque. Important: do not use only an impact gun as final torque — use a calibrated torque wrench. If you don’t have the manual, common trailer/wheel torques vary widely; getting exact spec is safer than guessing. Typical small wheel nut torques often fall around 90–140 ft‑lb depending on size — confirm spec.
- After first use (first few miles/field work), re‑torque lug nuts to spec.

10. Final checks
- Check tire pressure and adjust to recommended psi for baling loads (see manual or tire sidewall). Underinflation causes heat and premature wear; overinflation reduces contact patch and reduces traction.
- Inspect valve stem for leaks. Check wheel runout (wobble) visually by spinning.
- If you removed dust caps, reinstall them and ensure grease seal is snug.

Bearings and seals — quick notes (when you find issues)
- If hub spins rough, has play, or grease looks contaminated, you must repack bearings or replace cones/cups/seal. That is a separate procedure: remove spindle nut, separate inner bearing, remove races, clean, inspect for pitting, replace worn parts, repack with grease, fit new seal and dust cap. Bad bearings will overheat and can cause the wheel to seize or fall off.
- If grease is leaking from under the dust cap or seal, inspect for torn seal and replace. A leaking seal is a contamination path.

What can go wrong (and how to avoid it)
- Wheel comes loose or falls off: caused by under‑torqued lug nuts, missing nuts, or broken studs. Avoid by torquing to spec and re‑torquing after short use.
- Cross‑thread or damaged studs: avoid by hand‑threading first and not forcing nuts.
- Jack or stand failure: use proper rated equipment, place stands on solid ground, never work under unsupported load.
- Damaged bead/sidewall when prying wheel/tire: don’t pry on the tire; use rubber mallet and correct removal technique.
- Bearing failure: ignoring rough hubs leads to overheating, wheel seizure, or thrown wheel. If hub is rough, repair bearings immediately.
- Wrong tire direction: installing directional tires backward reduces traction and increases wear — keep arrow correct.
- Mixing different sized or mismatched tires: causes unstable handling and uneven load distribution — always replace with matched tires.

Maintenance tips to extend life
- Regularly check and maintain proper tire pressures.
- Inspect wheel nuts for correct torque and retighten after first service interval.
- Keep bearings greased per interval; inspect seals.
- Store baler off the tires (if long storage) or at least relieve load and cover tires from UV.
- Keep spare parts: one hub grease seal, spare lug nuts, and one spare wheel/tire if possible.

Quick troubleshooting signs
- Vibration at tow speed: check wheel balance, lug torque, wheel runout, bent rim or bad bearing.
- Heat at hub after use: bearing issue — stop and inspect.
- Uneven tread wear: alignment/load issue — rotate more often, inspect axle alignment and suspension hangers.

Final notes
- Always consult the Massey Ferguson MF20 operator/maintenance manual for model‑specific torque specs, lift points, tire pressures, and bearing part numbers. If you find damaged bearings, seals, or studs, replace rather than repair in the field unless you have parts and tools for a proper bearing job.
- Re‑torque lug nuts after first field use. Check wheel condition and pressures before each baling day.

That’s the full practical procedure, the parts involved, the operating theory, and what can go wrong. Follow the safety steps; when in doubt about bearings or damage, repair before running in the field.
rteeqp73

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Massey Ferguson 20 Bailer Knotter Trouble! Part 1. Hay Making With Old Machines The knotters are giving trouble. At the end of last season she missed to tie the last four bales. I did them by hand as I had almost ...

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