- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses and nitrile gloves; fuel is flammable and can irritate skin.
- Work outdoors or in a well-ventilated area, away from open flames or sparks.
- Have a fully charged fire extinguisher rated for flammable liquids nearby.
- If the pump is electric, disconnect the battery negative terminal before starting.

- How to tell if replacement is needed (quick diagnostics)
- Engine cranks but won’t run or runs briefly then dies → fuel not reaching carb/injector.
- Engine runs but stalls under load or sputters → weak fuel delivery.
- Visible fuel leaking from pump body or diaphragms → replace.
- Fuel contaminated with debris or internal check valves stuck → pump may fail.
- If you can, prime the system or check fuel flow from tank; no/very low flow indicates pump problem.

- Tools you likely already have (detailed descriptions and how to use them)
- Adjustable wrench (crescent wrench)
- Single jaw that adjusts to several bolt sizes. Use to hold or turn nuts/bolts where a fixed-size wrench is unavailable.
- Set jaw close to bolt head, pull the wrench toward you on the fixed jaw side to reduce slipping.
- Combination wrenches (open-end and box-end set)
- Fixed-size metal wrenches; box end grips the whole head for less rounding. Use the correct size for pump mounting bolts and fittings.
- Place box end fully over the nut and pull—do not lever or use cheater bars.
- Socket set with ratchet
- Ratchet handle and selection of sockets to fit bolts; faster removal/tightening of mounting bolts.
- Choose the socket that fits snugly, turn ratchet counterclockwise to loosen, clockwise to tighten.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- For clamps, mounting plates, or accessory screws. Use the correct tip to avoid stripping heads.
- Pliers (slip-joint/needle-nose)
- For clamp removal, pulling small cotter pins, or manipulating small hoses. Needle-nose for tight spots.
- Hose/clamp pliers or side-cutting pliers
- To compress and remove spring-type hose clamps safely.
- Drain pan (metal or heavy plastic)
- To catch drained fuel and avoid spills. Place under pump before loosening lines.
- Clean rags and disposable towels
- For wiping up fuel and cleaning mating surfaces.
- Small wire brush or gasket scraper
- To clean old gasket material and ensure a flat, clean mounting surface.
- Funnel and small container
- To transfer fuel back into tank or into disposal container.
- Work light or flashlight
- Illuminates working area under belly or inside compartments.

- Extra/special tools you may need (why required and how to use them)
- Flare-nut wrench (line wrench)
- Required for fuel line fittings (compression/flare nuts). Grips more faces of the nut to prevent rounding; slide over tube and turn gently.
- Torque wrench
- Ensures correct bolt tightness and prevents gasket crush or warped pump body. Use manufacturer torque specs; if unknown, tighten evenly and snug—don’t overtighten.
- Fuel line replacement kit / new fuel hose and clamps
- Old hoses may be brittle and leak; replace if cracked. Use fuel-rated hose and stainless-steel or crimp clamps; slide hose over barb fully and tighten clamp.
- Replacement fuel pump (OEM or approved aftermarket)
- You will need the correct pump model for MF20; replacement ensures internal diaphragms/check valves are correct.
- Pump rebuild kit (gaskets, diaphragms, check valves) if you plan to repair instead of replace
- For cost savings: contains internal parts that commonly fail. Requires careful reassembly and clean work area.
- Multimeter (for electric pumps)
- Checks voltage and continuity to confirm if electric pump is getting power or is open-circuit.
- Small pick set or seal driver
- Helps remove O-rings or seat new O-rings without damage.
- Service manual or parts diagram
- Shows pump location, mounting bolt sizes, hose routing, and torque specs. Strongly recommended.

- Parts that may need replacing and why
- Fuel pump assembly (mechanical or electric)
- Replace when leaking, not delivering fuel, or internally failed.
- Gasket(s) / mounting gasket
- Old gaskets shrink/harden; replacement prevents leaks at the pump-to-engine/mounting surface.
- Diaphragm and internal check valves (pump rebuild kit)
- Diaphragms age and crack; check valves stick or leak; both reduce pump output.
- Fuel hoses and clamps
- Replace if cracked, swollen, or hardened; prevents air ingress and leaks.
- Fuel filter/strainer
- If clogged, it can starve pump and engine; always inspect and replace if dirty.
- Mounting bolts / washers / lock washers
- Corroded/rounded hardware should be replaced to ensure secure mounting.
- Electrical connectors / wiring (for electric pumps)
- Corroded wires cause intermittent operation; replace or clean and use dielectric grease.

- Removal procedure (beginner-friendly, safe)
- Prepare workspace and safety gear; place drain pan under pump and have rags ready.
- Relieve fuel system pressure if applicable; for small baler engines usually shut off fuel valve and run engine briefly until it dies (only if safe).
- Clamp or pinch fuel hoses upstream of pump to reduce the spill while disconnecting; have rags/funnel ready.
- Label or note hose positions and wire connections (take a photo with your phone).
- Use a flare-nut wrench for metal fuel fittings; use slip-joint pliers or hose pliers for rubber hoses.
- Loosen and remove fuel lines from pump; allow fuel to drain into the pan.
- Remove pump mounting bolts with the socket/ratchet or wrench and keep washers/bolts together.
- Remove pump; inspect mounting surface and gasket condition. Clean with rag and wire brush, remove old gasket material carefully.
- If reusing pump and doing a rebuild, disassemble per kit instructions, replace diaphragm, gaskets, check valves and reassemble cleanly.

- Installation procedure (beginner-friendly)
- Compare new pump to old one to confirm correct match (ports, bolt spacing, lever orientation).
- Install new gasket or use a thin coat of appropriate non-hardening gasket sealant if recommended (manufacturer specific).
- Position pump and hand-start bolts to ensure correct alignment; tighten evenly in a star pattern to seat the gasket.
- If available, torque bolts to manufacturer spec; otherwise snug and then a small additional turn—do not overtighten.
- Reconnect fuel lines: slide hoses fully onto barbs, position clamps and tighten evenly; for flare fittings, use flare-nut wrench. Replace any clamps or hoses that looked suspect.
- Reconnect electrical connectors and ensure good clean contact; apply dielectric grease to help prevent corrosion.
- Remove hose clamps that were used to pinch hoses (open fuel valve if present).
- Prime system if needed: many pumps prime by cranking engine or by using a manual primer bulb if fitted. For electric pumps, you may run the starter briefly to prime.
- Check for leaks around fittings and body before running engine fully.
- Start engine and observe: listen for steady pump operation and watch for leaks. Test under slight load or by revving slightly to ensure steady fuel delivery.

- How to use tools while doing the job (practical tips)
- Socket and ratchet: pick a socket that fits snugly, pull handle toward you on the fixed-head side for most leverage; keep socket straight on the nut to avoid rounding.
- Flare-nut wrench: slide over tubing then engage nut; turn gently—if tight, back and re-engage to avoid slipping.
- Pliers/clamp pliers: compress spring clamps fully and slide clamp back on hose; hold compressed while removing hose.
- Torque wrench: set to spec, snug bolts, then apply final torque in small increments; always tighten in even sequence.
- Multimeter: set to DC volts to check for battery voltage at pump connector; set to ohms to test pump coil continuity.
- Wire brush/gasket scraper: scrape old gasket material off gently—don’t gouge mating surface.

- Final checks and run-in
- Inspect all fittings for leaks after several minutes of running; retighten slightly if safe and needed.
- Re-check fuel filter and replace if fuel had contamination.
- Dispose of used fuel and contaminated rags per local hazardous waste rules.
- After a day of use re-check mounting bolts, hose clamps, and look for any slow leaks.

- Quick trouble-shoot if still not working
- No voltage at electric pump → check battery, fuse, wiring, switch.
- Pump runs but no fuel output → blocked inlet/strainer or failed internal valve/diaphragm.
- Fuel leaks from seam → incorrect gasket/seal or loose bolts.

- Parts ordering advice (what to specify)
- Provide the baler model (MF20), engine serial/model if different, and the pump mounting orientation/part number from the parts manual or the old pump stamping.
- Ask for OEM part or a direct-fit aftermarket pump for MF20 to ensure port sizes and mounting are correct.

- Final safety reminders
- No smoking. Keep sparks away while working with fuel.
- Clean up spills immediately and ventilate the area.
- Test ride/run in an open area and watch for overheating or fuel smell.

If you want, you can proceed straight away: get the correct replacement pump or rebuild kit for your MF20, gather the tools listed, and follow the steps above.
rteeqp73

MF-135 with MF 20 baler.

Massey Harris #3 baler with a stuck plunger! I took a Massey Harris #3 square baler in on trade. It has sat outside uncovered for 20 plus years. The plunger is seized up tight.

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