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Massey Ferguson MF20 baler factory workshop and repair manual download

Tools and parts
- New crankshaft position sensor (OEM or correct aftermarket for MF20) and replacement O‑ring/seal (if sensor uses one).
- Socket set (metric), extensions, universal joint.
- Ratchet and torque wrench (torque wrench set to ~8–15 Nm / 7–11 lb·ft — check MF20 manual for exact spec).
- Small picks/flat screwdriver to free connector locking tab.
- Multimeter (or oscilloscope) to bench/test sensor output.
- Penetrating oil (if bolt is rusty), small amount of engine oil or dielectric grease for O‑ring.
- Shop rags, small container for bolts.
- Safety gloves, eye protection, jack/stands (if needed for access), work light.
- Electrical contact cleaner and small wire brush (for connector).
- Anti‑seize (optional, tiny amount on threads if recommended by supplier).

Safety precautions
- Park baler on firm level ground, set parking brake, chock wheels.
- Shut engine off and remove ignition key. Let engine cool.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal before working on electrical components.
- Support any removed covers or components so they cannot fall.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Avoid loose clothing near moving parts.
- If you must rotate the engine, be cautious and keep hands/tools clear.

Step‑by‑step replacement
1. Locate sensor
- Refer to MF20 manual for exact location. CPS is typically mounted at the crankcase/timing cover, near the crank pulley or flywheel housing.
2. Gain access
- Remove any obstructing covers, guards, or intake ducts. Use jack/stands if belly access required. Keep fasteners organized.
3. Disconnect battery
- Remove negative battery cable to prevent accidental cranking or shorting.
4. Inspect connector
- Follow wiring harness to sensor, depress lock tab and unplug connector. Use contact cleaner if corroded. Do not pull on wires—pull on the connector body.
5. Test (optional but recommended)
- If diagnosing, back‑probe connector and use multimeter to check sensor supply and signal while cranking (Hall sensor typically has 5–12V supply, 0V ground, pulsed signal). If sensor is clearly bad, proceed to removal.
6. Remove sensor mounting bolt(s)
- Spray penetrating oil on bolt if needed. Use the appropriately sized socket and extension; remove bolt(s) and set aside in container.
7. Extract sensor
- Gently rock and pull the sensor straight out. Some sensors have an O‑ring; be careful not to damage it. Keep the sealing surface and hole clean—block with rag if needed.
8. Inspect bore and wiring
- Clean mating surface and connector. Check wiring for chafing. Replace pigtail/connector if pins are corroded or wires damaged.
9. Prepare new sensor
- Lightly oil the new O‑ring with engine oil or apply dielectric grease to ease installation and ensure a good seal. Do not contaminate sensing tip with grease.
10. Install new sensor
- Insert sensor straight into bore until it seats. Install bolt(s) and tighten by hand, then torque to spec (~8–15 Nm). Do not over‑tighten—plastic housings and threads can strip.
11. Reconnect electrical connector
- Plug connector in until lock clicks. If pins were cleaned, apply a small amount of dielectric grease in the connector for corrosion protection.
12. Reconnect battery and clear codes
- Reattach negative battery terminal. If engine ECU stored fault codes, clear with code reader or follow manual procedure.
13. Test operation
- Start engine and observe idle/starting behavior. If sensor replacement successful, engine should crank and run normally. Check for engine warning lights. If available, monitor live signal with scanner or oscilloscope.
14. Final checks
- Reinstall any covers/guards. Inspect for oil leaks around sensor. Ensure harness is secured away from moving parts.

How the tools are used (concise)
- Ratchet/socket: remove/install sensor mounting bolt(s). Use extension/universal to reach awkward angles.
- Torque wrench: final torque to manufacturer spec to avoid under/over‑tightening.
- Multimeter: verify power/ground and presence of pulsed signal at connector while cranking. Use frequency or voltage pulse setting for Hall sensors.
- Penetrating oil: free seized bolts.
- Contact cleaner/brush: clean connector pins before reconnecting.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Using wrong sensor: verify part number; some sensors are engine‑specific. Wrong sensor may fit but not produce correct signal.
- Damaging O‑ring/seal: replace O‑ring and lubricate slightly—do not reuse a torn seal.
- Over‑torquing bolts: leads to stripped threads or cracked housing—use torque wrench.
- Pulling on wires: always pull the connector body to avoid breaking wires.
- Contaminating sensing tip: keep grease/oil off the tip; oil can mask signal or cause incorrect readings.
- Not checking wiring/connectors: a bad connector will give same symptoms; inspect and clean.
- Not clearing codes: lingering fault codes can cause ECU to ignore new sensor until codes cleared or learning routine performed.
- Dropping sensor into engine/bellhousing: work carefully; have a rag covering the opening if necessary.

Replacement parts summary
- Crankshaft position sensor (correct MF20 part).
- O‑ring/seal (if separate).
- Connector/pigtail (if pins/wires corroded).
- Small supply of dielectric grease and contact cleaner.

Done.
rteeqp73

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