- Safety first
- Wear eye protection, chemical-resistant gloves and close-toed shoes; fuel is flammable and corrosive to skin/eyes.
- Work outdoors or in a well-ventilated area away from open flames, sparks or hot surfaces; have a fire extinguisher rated for flammable liquids within reach.
- Disconnect the tractor battery negative terminal before doing fuel-system work to avoid sparks.
- Use drip pans and absorbent pads to catch fuel; dispose of fuel/soiled rags legally.

- Quick diagnosis: when the fuel pump needs attention or replacement
- Engine cranks but won’t start or runs poorly: little or no fuel delivery from pump.
- Strong fuel smell, wetness or fuel dripping at pump: visible leak from diaphragm or fittings.
- Intermittent fuel flow or air ingestion: cracked housing, brittle hoses, failed check valves.
- Pump lever (on mechanical pumps) has no spring action or is loose: internal failure.
- If the pump is electric: no pump noise when powered or no current at the pump — electrical fault possible.

- Tools required (detailed description and how to use each)
- Open-end or combination wrench set (metric and SAE)
- Description: fixed jaws for holding nuts/bolts; sizes commonly 8–19 mm and 5/16″–3/4″.
- How to use: select tight-fitting wrench for the nut/bolt; pull toward you rather than push when possible to avoid slipping; hold the head steady while turning the fastener.
- Socket set with ratchet and extension (metric + SAE)
- Description: sockets slip over bolt heads; ratchet allows back-and-forth motion without removing tool.
- How to use: pick the correct socket size, fit onto ratchet, use extension for hard-to-reach bolts; apply steady pressure and avoid sudden force if bolt is corroded.
- Torque wrench (click-style)
- Description: lets you tighten bolts to a set torque to avoid over- or under-tightening.
- How to use: set the recommended torque (if known) or snug value; tighten until wrench clicks; if manual torque spec unavailable, tighten evenly and avoid heavy force.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- Description: for hose clamps or bracket screws.
- How to use: use correct tip size to avoid stripping; turn with steady pressure.
- Pliers (slip-joint, needle-nose) and hose clamp pliers
- Description: gripping tools for clamps, clips and hoses.
- How to use: use hose clamp pliers for spring clamps; slip-joint for gripping and pulling; needle-nose for small clips.
- Fuel-safe catch container (metal can or plastic jug rated for fuel)
- Description: container to capture fuel drained from lines.
- How to use: position under lines before disconnecting; close and store fuel appropriately.
- Shop rags and absorbent pads
- Description: clean up drips and protect surfaces.
- How to use: place under work area; use rags to wipe fittings; dispose of soaked rags safely.
- Gasket scraper or razor blade
- Description: removes old gasket material from mounting surfaces.
- How to use: carefully scrape parallel to the surface to avoid gouging; clean with solvent afterward.
- Small wire brush and solvent (carburetor or brake cleaner)
- Description: cleans mating surfaces and fittings.
- How to use: brush to remove rust/scale, then spray solvent and wipe dry.
- New gasket or gasket maker (RTV) and thread sealant (if specified)
- Description: form the fuel-tight seal between pump and block.
- How to use: fit new gasket dry or apply thin bead of RTV where specified; don’t over-apply.
- Replacement fuel lines and clamps (if hoses are old)
- Description: modern fuel-rated hose and new screw or spring clamps.
- How to use: cut to length and secure with clamps; use new clamps rather than reusing brittle ones.
- Small flat magnet (optional)
- Description: helps fetch dropped bolts in tight spaces.
- How to use: wave near area to pick up metal parts.
- Bench vise (optional) for testing pump off-engine
- Description: holds pump for manual actuation or bench testing.
- How to use: clamp pump body securely but not so tight as to damage casting; actuate lever to test diaphragm pump action.
- Multimeter (if electric pump or diagnosing wiring)
- Description: measures voltage/continuity.
- How to use: check for battery voltage at the pump, continuity to ground; use proper ranges and probes.
- Extra recommended: torque specs manual for Massey Ferguson MF20 or tractor service manual
- Description: gives correct torque values and pump part numbers.
- How to use: refer to tighten bolts and verify installation details.

- Extra tools that might be required and why
- Fuel line quick-disconnect tool (only if equipped): needed for factory quick-fit connectors to release without damage.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster) for stuck bolts: soaks and loosens rusty fasteners.
- Carburetor cleaner/pressurized air for testing: to help identify fuel flow and clean ports.
- Replacement pump (mechanical or electric) — explained below: required when diagnosis shows pump failure.

- Removing and inspecting the fuel pump (mechanical pump on older MF tractors)
- Prepare: park on level ground, engine cool, battery negative disconnected, place drip pan under pump, have rags and fire extinguisher handy.
- Relieve fuel: loosen fuel cap to release tank pressure.
- Remove fuel lines: loosen hose clamps or disconnect fittings; catch fuel in container; cap lines with clean rags to avoid contamination.
- Unbolt pump: remove mounting bolts (use correct sockets/wrenches); support pump with a hand as the last bolt is removed to avoid dropping.
- Inspect pump and mounting surface: look for cracked body, torn diaphragm, corroded fittings, broken lever or springs, and check gasket condition.
- Bench check (mechanical): hold pump in vise or by hand, manually actuate lever — you should feel resistance (diaphragm spring) and see fuel movement through inlet to outlet when connected to a small test tube or hose. No resistance or no flow = failed diaphragm or check valves.

- Installing a new or rebuilt mechanical pump
- Clean mating surfaces: remove old gasket material with scraper; wipe with solvent; ensure dry and smooth.
- Gasket/seal: fit new gasket; use thin RTV only if recommended by manual. Do not use sealants that can flake into the fuel stream.
- Mount pump: align and hand-start bolts to avoid cross-threading; tighten evenly; if you have torque specs use a torque wrench; otherwise tighten snugly without warping the flange.
- Reconnect fuel lines: use new fuel-rated hose if old ones are stiff/cracked; use new clamps; ensure inlet and outlet are not swapped (inlet from tank, outlet to carburetor).
- Prime pump: for mechanical pumps, open a bleed screw if present or crank engine with carburetor/drain line disconnected until fuel flows; otherwise operate engine and observe fuel flow.
- Reconnect battery, start engine, inspect for leaks and proper fuel delivery; run engine through different loads to ensure no vapor lock or air leaks.

- Electric pump diagnosis/installation (if an aftermarket or electric pump is fitted)
- Check for power at pump with multimeter: key on, check for battery voltage at positive terminal; check ground.
- If no power, trace wiring and fuses/relays to find fault.
- If power present but no run: replace pump (bench testing by applying 12 V briefly should make it run).
- Mounting: use proper bracket and rubber isolator to avoid vibration damage.
- Wiring: use appropriate gauge wire, fuse near battery, and a relay if required; follow wiring diagram of pump.

- How to test and confirm proper operation after install
- Visual leak check: run engine and inspect all fittings for leaks.
- Flow test: disconnect fuel line at carburetor or near the pump into a container and crank — steady, strong flow indicates good pump action.
- Vacuum test (mechanical): if available, attach a vacuum gauge to inlet to check suction; low suction indicates internal failure or blocked tank vent.
- Road/test run: operate baler/tractor under load and watch for surge or stalls indicating air leaks or inadequate flow.

- When replacement is required, why, and what parts to get
- Replace pump when:
- Diaphragm is torn, leaking, or collapsed (internal leaks).
- Housing is cracked or mounting flange is damaged.
- Check valves are stuck or not seating.
- Electric motor inside pump fails (for electric pumps).
- Parts to obtain:
- Correct mechanical fuel pump specified for Massey Ferguson MF20 engine or its compatible replacement — match mounting flange, bolt pattern, inlet/outlet orientation and pressure/flow characteristics.
- Pump gasket (always replace).
- Fuel hose rated for gasoline/diesel as appropriate (replace old brittle lines).
- Hose clamps (spring or screw type), new if original are corroded.
- Inline fuel filter (recommended) to prevent damage to new pump and carburetor; replace old filter.
- If electrical: proper-fitted 12 V pump, wiring, inline fuse and relay as required.
- Sourcing parts:
- Bring the old pump or a clear photo of mounting flange/part numbers to parts supplier or search with tractor year/model; ask for OEM or high-quality aftermarket replacement designed for your engine.

- Common pitfalls and brief troubleshooting notes
- Reusing old gasket or clamps often causes leaks — replace consumables.
- Over-tightening bolts can warp pump flange and cause leaks or damage.
- Swapping inlet/outlet lines will prevent fuel delivery — verify orientation before final tightening.
- Air leaks at fittings or cracked hoses give intermittent running issues and are often mistaken for pump failure.
- If you replace pump but still have no fuel flow, check tank vent, pickup screen, filter and carburetor for blockages before assuming new pump is bad.

- Final cleanup and disposal
- Wipe up fuel, dispose of rags and old fuel per local hazardous waste rules.
- Double-check torque and clamp tightness after a short test run.

- If you don’t have a replacement pump yet
- Bring the old pump to a parts store or online seller and match by appearance/bolt pattern; confirm compatibility with “Massey Ferguson MF20” or the engine code stamped on the block.
- If uncertain, buy from a reputable supplier or OEM cross-reference to avoid incorrect fit.

- Summary (practical next steps)
- Diagnose per above signs; gather the listed tools and safety gear.
- Replace pump if diaphragm/housing/valves fail, and always fit new gasket and, ideally, a new inline filter and fuel hose/clamps.
- Prime, test for leaks and proper flow, then run and re-check.

No questions asked.
rteeqp73

Massey Ferguson Balers and Hay Tools 1980

MF-135 with MF 20 baler.

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