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Massey Ferguson MF135 and M148 tractor factory workshop and repair manual download

Tools & supplies
- New spark plug(s) (one per cylinder) — purchase correct replacement for the MF135 M148 petrol engine (check part number on old plug or supplier). Typical gap ~0.025–0.030" (0.6–0.8 mm) — set to spec for the plug.
- Spark plug socket (deep, with rubber insert) matching the plug hex size — most older tractors use 5/8" (16 mm) or 13/16" (21 mm); confirm from the old plug.
- 3/8" drive ratchet and a 3/8" drive extension (6–12 in).
- Torque wrench capable of 10–50 ft·lb.
- Feeler gauge for gap setting.
- Compressed air or clean shop brush and rag.
- Anti-seize compound (use sparingly and only if manufacturer allows) or none if plugs are nickel-plated.
- Dielectric grease for the spark plug boots.
- Safety glasses, mechanic gloves.
- Optional: wire brush for plug threads (if reusing), replacement spark plug leads or boots if damaged.

Safety precautions (must-do)
1. Work on a cold engine. Hot heads will strip threads and burn you.
2. Disconnect the battery negative terminal to avoid accidental spark (especially if you’ll be handling ignition wires near bare terminals).
3. Wear eye protection and gloves.
4. Keep dirt out of the combustion chamber — clean around each plug thoroughly and use compressed air before removal.
5. Replace one plug at a time to avoid mixing up wires/boots.

Step-by-step procedure
1. Preparation
- Park tractor on level ground, set parking brake, shut off engine and remove key.
- Let engine cool completely. Disconnect battery negative.
- Locate spark plugs on the cylinder head (MF135 petrol is a 3‑cylinder; there will be three plug leads).

2. Clean around the plug
- Use compressed air or a brush to blow/brush away dirt and debris around the plug boot/lead where it meets the head. Removing contaminants prevents them falling into the cylinder when the plug is removed.

3. Remove the spark plug lead
- Grasp the boot (not the wire) and twist gently while pulling to remove. If the boot is stuck, use a boot puller. Avoid pulling on the wire.

4. Break loose the plug
- Fit the correct spark plug socket with extension onto the plug. Attach ratchet and turn counterclockwise to break the plug loose. Use short controlled movements — if it feels like it's not turning freely, stop and check for cross-threading or seized plug.

5. Remove the plug
- Once loose, back it out by hand or with the socket. Inspect the plug for carbon deposits, oil, or unusual wear (see “diagnostics” note below). Dispose or keep for reference.

6. Gap and prepare new plug
- Check the new plug gap with a feeler gauge and adjust to the specified value (commonly 0.025–0.030" for many small petrol engines; set to the plug manufacturer’s spec).
- If using anti-seize, apply a very small amount to the threads only (note: many modern plug manufacturers advise against anti-seize because plugs come with plated threads—if unsure, do not use).
- Apply a dab of dielectric grease inside the boot to help sealing and prevent corrosion.

7. Install new plug
- Start the new plug by hand into the head. Thread it in by hand at least 4–6 turns to avoid cross-threading.
- Once hand-tight, use the spark plug socket and torque wrench. Torque to the correct spec — typical range for 14–18 mm plugs is 18–25 ft·lb (25–35 N·m). If you do not have an exact spec, err on the lower side to avoid stripping threads. (Consult factory manual for exact torque if available.)

8. Reattach spark plug lead
- Push the boot firmly onto the plug until you feel or hear a click (ensures good contact). Replace any cracked or hardened boots/wires.

9. Repeat for remaining plugs
- Do one cylinder at a time (clean, remove lead, remove plug, fit new plug, torque, replace lead) until all are done.

10. Final checks
- Reconnect battery negative. Start engine and listen for smooth running and normal idle. Check for misfire or roughness. Re-check leads for secure seating.

How the tools are used — quick notes
- Spark plug socket: deep socket with rubber insert holds the plug securely. Use extension to reach recessed plugs. Always start threading plug by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Ratchet: used to break the plug loose and to snug it. Use short, controlled strokes in tight spaces.
- Torque wrench: ensures correct clamping force; set to torque value, snug the wrench until it clicks or indicates target torque. This prevents over- or under-tightening which causes head/thread damage or poor heat transfer.
- Feeler gauge: slide the correct blade between center and ground electrode perpendicular to electrodes to set gap. Adjust gently by bending ground electrode only.

Replacement parts required
- New spark plugs (one per cylinder). Use correct heat range and thread size for MF135 M148 petrol engine — get OEM or quality aftermarket equivalents.
- Replace spark plug leads/boots if cracked, loose, or if there’s arcing.
- Optional: new gasket/seal if your plugs use sealing washers (most are integral on the plug).

Common pitfalls to avoid
- Removing plugs from a hot engine — risk of thread damage and burns.
- Not cleaning around the plug before removal — allows debris to fall into the cylinder.
- Cross-threading a new plug — always start by hand. Cross-threaded plug ruins the head.
- Over-tightening — strips threads in the aluminum head or breaks the plug. Use torque wrench.
- Using too much anti-seize — leads to over-torquing; and many new plugs have plated threads and don’t need anti-seize.
- Pulling on ignition wire instead of the boot — will damage the wire.
- Not gapping the plug to spec — leads to poor combustion and misfire.
- Changing plugs one by one; changing all wires at once can scramble connections — do one at a time.

Quick diagnostic notes from plug appearance
- Black dry soot: rich mixture or weak ignition.
- Oily plug: oil entering the chamber (rings/valves).
- White blistered insulator: overheating or incorrect heat-range plug.
- Normal: light tan/gray deposit.

That’s it — follow the hand-thread-first method, torque correctly, and replace one plug at a time.
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