Short, clear guide — how the system works, what every part does, and step-by-step replacement of the clutch slave cylinder on a Massey‑Ferguson MF135 (M148) for a beginner mechanic. Follow safety steps. Use the tractor service manual for any model‑specific numbers and fluid type.

Why this repair is needed (theory)
- What a hydraulic clutch does: when you press the clutch pedal, a master cylinder converts that pedal force into hydraulic pressure. That pressure travels through a sealed line to the slave cylinder. The slave cylinder pushes a pushrod that moves the clutch release fork and release (throw‑out) bearing, which lifts the pressure plate off the clutch disc — that’s how engine power is disconnected from the gearbox to change gears.
- Analogy: think of two syringes connected by a tube and full of fluid. Push one plunger (pedal/master) and the other plunger (slave) moves. If there’s a leak or air in the line the movement is lost or soft.
- Why the slave cylinder fails: rubber seals inside wear, tear, or swell from contamination; corrosion inside the bore causes scoring and leakage; dust boot can crack letting dirt in; banjo/pipe fittings or the bleeder can leak. Symptoms: soft or sinking clutch pedal, fluid loss, visible fluid on gearbox/bellhousing, difficulty disengaging clutch or slipping gears.

Main components (what they look like and what they do)
- Clutch pedal: lever you press. It pivots and pushes the master cylinder pushrod.
- Master cylinder (pedal side): a small hydraulic cylinder with a fluid reservoir. Pushes fluid under pressure into the line when the pedal is pressed.
- Reservoir: holds fluid for the clutch circuit. Labeled or attached to the master cylinder.
- Hydraulic line / pipe: steel or rubber-lined hose that carries fluid from master to slave. Has fittings (flare, banjo) at each end.
- Banjo bolt and copper crush washers (if used): join the line to the slave cylinder; washers seal the connection.
- Slave cylinder: mounted to the gearbox/bellhousing. Contains a piston, seals, and a pushrod. When pressurized it pushes the release fork. Has two mounting bolts and a bleeder screw (usually) and the hydraulic inlet.
- Piston & seals (inside slave): piston transfers pressure to pushrod; seals keep the fluid from leaking.
- Dust boot: rubber cover over the piston/pushrod to keep dirt out.
- Pushrod: the rod the slave piston pushes; it contacts clutch fork or release bearing.
- Release/throw‑out bearing & fork: the fork/ bearing assembly moves to disengage the clutch.
- Bleeder screw: small screw on the slave with a nipple for bleeding air out.
- Return spring (if present): returns the pushrod/piston to resting position.
- Mounting bolts & threads: secure the slave to the gearbox.

Tools & materials you’ll need
- Set of wrenches and sockets (including a flare‑nut or line wrench for hydraulic fittings)
- Screwdrivers, pliers
- Small container/pan to catch fluid
- Clear hose and a bottle for bleeding
- New slave cylinder (correct MF135 part)
- New copper crush washers or sealing washers for banjo/pipe fittings
- Clean shop rags, brake/clutch‑safe cleaner
- Recommended hydraulic/clutch fluid (see manual) — many tractors use DOT‑3/DOT‑4 brake fluid or a hydraulic oil depending on system. Verify in the MF135 service manual before topping up.
- Bleeding assistant (one other person) or a vacuum/pressure bleeder
- Jack and stands or ramps (to safely raise and support tractor if needed)
- Gloves, safety glasses
- Anti‑seize or thread locker only if specified by manual

Safety first
- Work on a cool tractor, engine off, parking brake set. Remove key.
- Support the tractor with stands or blocks if any lifting is required. Never rely on a jack alone.
- Brake fluid/diesel/hydraulic fluid can damage paint; protect surfaces and dispose fluid properly.
- Avoid contaminating hydraulic parts — keep things clean, cap lines, and don’t let dirt into the reservoir.

Step‑by‑step replacement (clear procedure)
1. Preparation
- Park tractor on level ground, chock wheels. If necessary, raise rear to access slave area and support securely.
- Put on gloves and eye protection.
- Clean area around slave, line fittings, and bleeder to avoid dirt entry.
- Place catch pan under slave/line fittings.

2. Identify and note connections
- Locate the slave cylinder on the transmission bellhousing (external, near clutch fork). Note how the hydraulic line connects (banjo bolt or threaded fitting).
- Note orientation of pushrod and dust boot so new unit matches.

3. Remove hydraulic pressure / protect lines
- Unscrew the bleeder screw a couple turns to relieve any residual pressure (catch fluid).
- If the line is old/fragile, support it so it won’t twist or crack when you remove it.

4. Disconnect hydraulic line (careful)
- Use a line wrench on the hydraulic fitting or remove the banjo bolt (if banjo style). Have the pan ready.
- Keep track of any copper crush washers or seals; you will replace them.

5. Remove slave mounting bolts and remove slave
- Remove the bolts that hold the slave cylinder to the gearbox. These can be rusted; use penetrating oil if needed.
- Pull the slave straight off. Some fluid will leak out — catch it.
- Inspect the pushrod, fork, and release bearing where they contact. Note any unusual wear or damage.

6. Inspect components
- Inspect clutch fork pivot, release bearing, dust boot, and bellhousing area. If the release bearing or fork shows heavy wear or scored surfaces, plan for replacement/inspection of the clutch assembly.
- Check the hydraulic line for corrosion or internal collapse; replace line if suspect.

7. Prepare new slave
- Compare new part to old; ensure pushrod length and orientation match.
- If the new cylinder has a protective plug in the hydraulic port, leave it in until ready to connect to avoid contamination.
- Fit new crush washers on banjo bolt if banjo style.

8. Install new slave
- Position slave so pushrod aligns with fork/release bearing. Ensure dust boot seats properly.
- Bolt the slave onto gearbox using the same mounting holes. Tighten bolts evenly to the manufacturer’s torque spec or “snug plus 1/4 turn” if you do not have spec — do not overtighten or strip threads.
- Reconnect the hydraulic line. If banjo style, fit washers on each side of the banjo fitting and torque the banjo bolt to spec. If threaded, use a line wrench and tighten to spec. Never reuse crushed washers.

9. Bleed the system (remove air)
- Top off the master cylinder reservoir with the correct fluid and keep it open during bleeding.
- Bleeding method:
a) Two‑person method: One person presses the clutch pedal slowly while the other opens the slave bleeder screw to allow fluid and air out, then closes it before pedal is released. Repeat until only clear fluid comes out and pedal feel is firm.
b) One‑person vacuum or pressure bleeder: Connect to bleeder nipple and follow tool instructions until no air.
- Use clear tubing on bleeder to see bubbles. Keep reservoir topped to avoid drawing air back in.
- Pumping: Press the pedal slowly, hold it down, open bleeder to let fluid escape, close bleeder, release pedal. Do not let reservoir run dry.
- Continue until fluid runs clear with no bubbles and pedal is firm and consistent.

10. Final checks
- Tighten bleeder screw securely.
- Clean up spilled fluid and check for leaks at banjo/line and bleeder.
- Check pedal feel and free play against manual spec (if given).
- Start the tractor (engine off is okay for pedal check) and check operation by engaging gear and testing clutch engagement/disengagement carefully.
- After a short test drive, recheck fluid level and for leaks; re‑bleed if pedal is soft.

Common problems and troubleshooting
- Soft, spongy pedal after install: air in system — repeat bleed until no bubbles. Ensure reservoir never went dry during bleeding.
- Fluid leaking at banjo or fitting: likely missing/damaged crush washers, or bolt not tightened to spec — replace washers and retighten.
- Pedal slowly sinks to the floor: internal leak in master or slave seals. If slave checks out externally, master cylinder may be failing; check for fluid loss in master or wetness around slave.
- Stiff or binding action: pushrod misaligned or too long/short; dust boot trapped; fork not in position. Recheck alignment.
- Bleeder screw rounded or broken: if seized, apply penetrating oil, use correct tool, back out slowly. If broken, may need gearbox access or professional help.
- Contaminated fluid: if wrong fluid was used (e.g., hydraulic oil vs. DOT fluid), seals can swell or fail. If wrong fluid used, flush system and replace components as needed.

Maintenance tips
- Replace crush washers and bleeder covers whenever you open fittings.
- Keep reservoir cap clean and sealed; prevent dirt entering reservoir.
- Inspect dust boot regularly — torn boots let grit in and ruin seals.
- If rust/corrosion found inside old slave, replace the slave and consider the line too.

A final note on fluid selection
- Different tractors use different fluids. Using the wrong fluid destroys rubber seals. Before filling, confirm the correct fluid from the MF135 service manual or parts book. If you can’t check the manual immediately, do not add fluid — cap reservoir and obtain the correct specification.

That’s the full process and theory. Follow safety, keep things clean, bleed thoroughly, and inspect the surrounding clutch components while you’re in there.
rteeqp73

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