Short summary first: the MF135 (M148) uses a camshaft, tappets (lifters), pushrods and rocker arms to open and close the valves. The usual routine job is to set the valve clearances (adjust lifters) — if left wrong you get noisy valve train, loss of power, burned valves or cam damage. Below I explain every component, the theory, symptoms, tools and a step‑by‑step procedure for adjustment and for lifter replacement/inspection, plus common failure modes and fixes. Follow safety basics: engine off, keys out, cool engine, clean work area, wear eye protection and gloves.

1) Theory — why lifter work matters
- Purpose: The camshaft has lobes that push lifters (tappets). Lifters transfer that push up the pushrods to the rocker arms which pivot and open the valves against spring pressure. When the cam lobe rotates away, springs close the valve.
- Clearance (lash): Because metal parts expand with heat, there must be a small gap when cold between the valve stem/rocker and the valve seat mechanism. That gap prevents valves from being held open at operating temperature and prevents valve-to-piston contact. If the gap is too large you get noisy ticking and reduced performance; if too small valves can overheat or stay open and lose compression.
- Types: The MF135 is a pushrod overhead valve tractor using mechanical (solid) tappets with adjustable clearances via an adjuster screw on the rocker arm (not hydraulic auto-adjusters). That means periodic manual adjustment is required.

Analogy: Think of the cam as the drummer giving beats. Lifters and pushrods are the drumsticks and rocker arms the cymbals — if the sticks are too short or too long (no clearance or too much clearance) the rhythm (valve timing) is off and the music (engine performance) suffers.

2) Components (every part involved)
- Camshaft: Rotates in the block; lobes press the tappet. Inspect lobes for wear or pitting.
- Tappets / lifters: Cylindrical followers that ride on cam lobes, located in bores in the block. On MF135 they are solid mechanical tappets (not hydraulic).
- Pushrods: Hollow or solid rods transmitting motion from tappet to rocker. They sit in cups in the tappet and in the rocker.
- Rocker shaft or pedestal and rocker arms: Rockers pivot on a shaft/pivot and push down on valve stems via adjuster screw (on top of the rocker) and a socket that contacts the valve stem tip/keeper.
- Adjuster screw and locknut: Threaded screw on the rocker that sets the clearance between rocker and valve stem; locking nut secures it.
- Valve stem and valve spring: Valve tip contacts rocker; springs close the valve.
- Rocker cover (valve cover): Protective cover and seal (gasket) over the rocker assembly.
- Oil galleries/passages: Feed oil to cam, lifters and rockers; must be clean for proper lubrication.
- Cylinder head and head gasket: Houses valves and springs; interfaces with block.
- Timing gears/chain: Drive camshaft (indirectly affects lifter operation).
- Fasteners and gaskets: rocker cover bolt, rocker pedestal bolts, etc.

3) Symptoms that tell you the lifters/valve train need attention
- Loud tapping or ticking from top end, varying with speed.
- Reduced power, misfire, poor idle, white/black smoke at exhaust.
- Poor starting and rough running.
- Unusual oil consumption or low oil pressure (can cause lifter collapse/wear).
- Excessive valvetrain play or visible wear on pushrods/rockers.
- After repairs, knocking noises that disappear when loosened indicate insufficient clearance.

4) Tools and supplies you’ll need
- Basic hand tools: sockets, ratchet, open ended wrenches, screwdriver.
- Feeler gauges (metric and imperial).
- Small adjustable spanner or wrench for locknut.
- Screwdriver/hex key to hold adjuster screw if needed.
- Torque wrench (for reassembly where specified).
- Clean rags, parts tray, gasket scraper.
- New rocker cover gasket (and RTV if required).
- Clean engine oil, drain pan, oil filter (if you want to freshen oil after work).
- Magnet or small pick (for removing pushrods if needed).
- Replacement lifters, pushrods, rocker bolts etc. if wear is found.
- Service manual if available (best reference).

Typical clearance (common recommended values for MF135 family — use service manual if available):
- Inlet (intake) valves: about 0.008" (~0.20 mm)
- Exhaust valves: about 0.012" (~0.30 mm)
These are common practical settings for many MF135s; some manuals vary slightly. If in doubt pick a middle value: intake 0.008", exhaust 0.012".

5) Step‑by‑step: how to check and adjust the lifters (valve clearances)
Safety first: engine OFF, key removed, engine cool or slightly warm (many techs adjust cold if manual unknown — cold will be safe to avoid over‑tightening).

A. Access
1. Remove air cleaner if it gets in the way.
2. Drain loose dirt from around rocker cover area. Remove the rocker (valve) cover bolts and lift off the rocker cover. Keep bolts/gasket in a tray and note orientation of any baffles.
3. Clean exposed surfaces so dirt can’t fall in.

B. Determine top dead center (TDC) for each cylinder
4. Rotate the engine slowly by turning the crank (use the flywheel bolt/nut or starter ring while off) until the cylinder you’re adjusting is on the compression stroke and the rocker for the intake and exhaust of that cylinder are both loose (valve fully closed). Compression stroke = both valves closed, piston near TDC. You can confirm by observing the rocker arm movement: when cam lobe is on the base circle both pushrod and rocker move freely (not under load).
5. A common method: crank until both intake and exhaust rockers can be rocked by hand (valve closed). Some tracorters use the firing order and rotate to each cylinder in sequence. If uncertain, rotate 360° and check again.

C. Adjustment process (one cylinder at a time)
6. With engine on compression stroke for that cylinder, place the correct feeler gauge between the rocker pad/adjuster and the top of the valve stem (or between the rocker and valve tip depending on rocker design). Typical values: intake 0.008", exhaust 0.012".
7. Loosen the locknut on the adjuster screw.
8. Turn the adjuster screw until you feel a slight drag on the feeler gauge (neither loose nor forcing). Hold the screw in position with screwdriver/holding tool and tighten the locknut without moving the screw. Many people hold the screw with a flat screwdriver while tightening the locknut with a small spanner. Don’t over‑tighten the locknut — snug to lock it.
9. Re‑check the clearance after tightening; re‑adjust if needed. Repeat until the feeler slides with a defined light resistance.
10. Repeat steps 4–9 for each valve in the correct sequence. For MF135, there are 4 cylinders, so do 8 valves (intake & exhaust each cylinder).

D. Reassembly & test
11. Clean mating surfaces, replace rocker cover gasket and reinstall the cover. Torque cover bolts to spec if known or snug evenly.
12. Start the engine and listen for any ticking. It should be quieter. Run it warm, then stop and re‑check clearances after first run (on some engines you may need to re‑check after short run).
13. Check for oil leaks around the rocker cover.

6) Replacing lifters / deeper inspection (when adjustment won’t cure noise)
When adjustment can’t eliminate noise, lifters or cam lobes may be worn, or oil passages may be blocked. Basic replacement/inspection overview:

A. Diagnosis:
- Tap test: noisy lifter that doesn’t quiet when adjusted usually indicates a mechanically worn tappet or collapsed tappet.
- Inspect pushrods for straightness: roll each on a flat surface. Bent pushrods must be replaced.
- Inspect rockers for wear in the contact areas, inspect valve stems for wear.

B. Procedure outline for replacing lifters
(Exact steps can vary by engine; this is the general safe route.)
1. Drain engine oil (recommended) and remove rocker assembly and pushrods (mark or lay them in order so each pushrod returns to original position).
2. With pushrods removed you can access the lifters. Lifters usually drop into bores in the block. Use a magnet or puller to remove them from their bores. If they won’t come out top, the head may need removal (rare for MF135 pushrod engine).
3. Inspect lifter faces for pitting, scoring, or flat spots. Replace any bad lifter.
4. Inspect cam lobes: if lobes are scored or flattened, the camshaft likely needs replacement or regrinding and an overall camshaft rebuild should be performed.
5. Clean all oil passages carefully with solvent and blow out with compressed air (be careful not to force debris into galleries). Replace oil filter and change oil if contaminated.
6. Replace lifters and pushrods (in the same order), reassemble rockers, then adjust clearances as above.

C. When camshaft or lifter bores are damaged:
- If cam lobe wear has occurred, replace camshaft and lifters as a set (new lifters on used cam can wear fast).
- If lifter bores are worn or out of round, an engine rebuild or professional machine shop work may be needed.

7) Common things that go wrong and how to fix them
- Symptom: Ticking that persists after adjustment
Fix: Inspect lifters, pushrods, rockers for wear; check oil pressure and oil passages for blockage; replace worn parts.
- Symptom: Valves sticking or seizing
Fix: Clean oil passages, replace lifters/pushrods, ensure correct oil viscosity and filter.
- Symptom: One valve won’t adjust to correct clearance
Fix: Bent pushrod, worn rocker pad, damaged valve tip — replace offending part.
- Symptom: Rapid, loud tapping when hot
Fix: Possible valve-seat, burned valve, or valve guiding problem — may need head work.
- Symptom: Low oil pressure
Fix: Check pump, pressure relief, oil filter and galleries — low pressure starves lifters and cam.

8) Tips & best practices
- Keep pushrods and rockers in order — they wear together. Reinstalling in the same position reduces risk.
- Use fresh oil and a new filter after any solid lifter/cam work if contamination suspected.
- If replacing one lifter, strongly consider replacing all lifters (they bed in together).
- Don’t over-tighten adjuster locknuts — they are small and easily strip. Snug is enough to lock the screw.
- Re‑check valve clearances after the engine has run for a little while; many mechanics re‑check after 5–10 minutes of run time or about 50 hours.
- If oil consumption or pressure issues were present, fix them first — otherwise new lifters/cam will fail prematurely.

9) Final checklist before calling it done
- Valve cover gasket replaced or resealed and cover torqued.
- All adjustment locknuts tight and clearances re-checked.
- No foreign debris in rocker area.
- Oil at correct level and filter tight.
- Engine starts, idles smoothly, and noise level is normal.
- Re‑inspect after short run for leaks or change in noise and re‑check clearances.

10) Quick troubleshooting table (condensed)
- Loud tick, unchanged by adjustment: worn lifter or cam → inspect/replace lifter & cam.
- Single noisy cylinder: bad lifter, bent pushrod or bad rocker → swap pushrod with another cylinder; if noise moves, pushrod is bad; if not, lifter is bad.
- Sudden large valve noise after oil change: possible filter/galleries blockage or air pocket; check oil pressure and supply.

That gives you the full background, the parts, the why, what can go wrong, and exact practical steps to check, adjust and, when needed, replace lifters on an MF135/M148. Follow the stepwise adjust procedure carefully, keep everything clean, and replace worn parts rather than chasing noise.
rteeqp73

New Holland Super Hayliner 68 Probelauf

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