Safety first: work on level ground, chock wheels, use rated jacks/stands, disconnect battery, wear eye/hand protection, and have a helper or transmission jack. Have the service manual/specs at hand for torque values and drawings.

Tools & supplies (brief): engine hoist or transmission jack, socket/wrench set, breaker bar, torque wrench, pry bars, seal puller, alignment dowels, new torque converter, new seals/gaskets, transmission fluid, drain pan, clean rags, thread locker.

Theory summary (short): a torque converter is a hydrokinetic coupling between engine flywheel and transmission input. Main components: impeller (pump) driven by the engine, turbine driven by the transmission input, and stator (reactor) that redirects fluid for torque multiplication. It transmits and multiplies torque via fluid flow; bearings and a one‑way clutch inside the stator control flow and allow freewheeling. Failures (slip, surge, noise, overheating, leaks) come from worn or damaged vanes, failed stator/clutch, internal bearing failure, warped shell, or leaking seals causing loss of fluid/pressure. Replacing the converter restores proper hydrodynamic function, mechanical alignment, and sealing — eliminating the root causes above.

Ordered procedure with theory and how each action fixes the fault

1) Confirm symptom and isolation
- Action: Verify symptoms (excessive slip under load, slow engagement, overheating, whining/noise from transmission area, fluid contamination/leak). Check fluid level/color and transmission pressure if possible.
- Theory/fix: Symptoms indicate loss of torque transfer (worn vanes/stator), internal bearing/clutch failure (noise/vibration), or leaks. Confirming prevents swapping parts unnecessarily.

2) Prepare tractor
- Action: Park, chock, disconnect battery, remove hood/air cleaner, drain transmission/torque converter fluid into pan.
- Theory/fix: Removing fluid reduces mess and reveals internal contamination (metal particles indicate internal wear). Emptying prevents spills when separating components.

3) Remove external ancillaries and linkage
- Action: Disconnect PTO/propshaft (if fitted), gear linkages, hydraulic lines attached to gearbox housing, starter motor, exhaust as needed for access.
- Theory/fix: Creates clearance to separate gearbox from engine and access bellhousing; prevents damaging linkages and lines.

4) Support transmission/engine and unbolt bellhousing
- Action: Support gearbox with jack; remove bellhousing and transmission-to-engine bolts in a prescribed pattern; separate units enough to access converter mounting or remove bellhousing cover.
- Theory/fix: The torque converter is mounted to the flywheel/drive plate; separation gives access. Proper support maintains alignment and prevents stress on mounts/shafts.

5) Access torque converter bolts/shell
- Action: Remove inspection covers/flywheel housing cover, expose converter-to-flywheel bolts. Rotate engine to index bolts if necessary. Mark orientation of converter relative to drive plate for balance.
- Theory/fix: Bolts secure converter to flexplate/flywheel; marking prevents balance issues causing vibration after reassembly.

6) Unbolt torque converter from flywheel and remove
- Action: Remove bolts evenly; pull converter straight off the transmission input shaft (use pry evenly or special puller if needed), supporting converter weight with jack.
- Theory/fix: Even removal prevents shaft/bearing damage. The converter slides off splines; removing lets you inspect internal and mounting surfaces.

7) Inspect mating surfaces and components
- Action: Check splines on input shaft, pilot bearing, seal surfaces, flexplate/flywheel face, bolt holes, and bellhousing bore for wear, scoring, or distortion.
- Theory/fix: Damage here can cause misalignment, leaks, or vibration. Replacing or refurbishing these restores correct centering and sealing, critical to converter function.

8) Open/inspect torque converter (optional but recommended)
- Action: If symptoms suggest internal failure, have the old converter opened by a shop or open it yourself in a clean area to inspect impeller/turbine vanes, stator and one‑way clutch, bearings, and shell for cracks, wear, debris.
- Theory/fix: Internal inspection identifies failed components (worn clutch, broken vanes, bearing play) and confirms necessity of replacement rather than just seals.

9) Replace seals, gaskets, and prepare new converter
- Action: Fit new transmission/torque converter seals and any pilot/starter seals, replace flexplate bolts if required, clean mating surfaces, and preload any required bearings.
- Theory/fix: Seals prevent fluid loss and maintain hydraulic pressure. New converter plus fresh seals restores pressure and prevents leaks that cause slippage/overheating.

10) Install new converter correctly
- Action: Slide the converter onto the input shaft fully until it seats and engages the pump (feel three stages: engage splines, then fully seat onto hub). Rotate slightly to align bolt holes, then attach to flexplate/flywheel and torque bolts to spec in a star pattern.
- Theory/fix: Correct engagement ensures the pump is properly aligned with the housing and splines, eliminating wobble and ensuring fluid flow path integrity. Proper bolt torque maintains balance and prevents loosening that causes vibration or catastrophic failure.

11) Reassemble bellhousing and ancillaries
- Action: Mate transmission to engine, use dowels/aligners to keep centering, torque bellhousing bolts to spec, reconnect linkage, PTO, hydraulics, starter, exhaust, and prop shafts.
- Theory/fix: Accurate alignment preserves input shaft bearing life and converter centering; correct torque prevents misalignment and loosening under load.

12) Refill fluids and bleed if required
- Action: Refill transmission/torque converter with specified fluid type and quantity. Replace filters if applicable. Prime circuits per manual.
- Theory/fix: Fresh fluid restores viscosity and heat transfer. Old contaminated fluid would reintroduce problems. Correct fluid level is critical for converter hydraulic coupling.

13) Initial no-load run and leak check
- Action: Start engine, run at idle, cycle through gears (with tractor securely braked), watch fluid temperature, check for leaks, listen for abnormal noises.
- Theory/fix: Observing operation without load verifies sealing, engagement behavior and that internal components are seated and free.

14) Load test and road/test under working conditions
- Action: Test under light then increasing load (field/implement), monitor for slip, surge, overheating, or noises. Recheck fluid level after warm-up and again after first day of use; change fluid early if recommended (run-in).
- Theory/fix: Load testing ensures torque multiplication works (stator/clutch functioning) and that replacement fixed slippage or bearing/imbalance issues. Follow-up fluid change captures any residual machining debris.

How the repair fixes specific faults (short ties)
- Slip / weak pull: Replacing worn/damaged impeller/turbine/stator restores proper fluid dynamics and torque multiplication; new seals prevent pressure loss.
- Overheating / contaminated fluid: New converter and fluid removes burnt/degraded fluid and internal debris that reduce cooling and hydraulic efficiency.
- Noise / vibration: Replacing failed internal bearings or correcting imbalance and reinstalling with correct orientation/torque removes mechanical play and misbalance.
- Leaks / loss of pressure: New seals and mating surface refurbishment restore hydraulic sealing, recovering stall torque and preventing fluid starvation.

Final notes (concise)
- Always use factory torque specs and assembly procedures for MF135/M148 (bolts, clearances, fluid type). Incorrect seating or torque causes immediate failure.
- After replacement monitor fluid color/level and performance for the first 10–50 hours; change fluid after initial break‑in if recommended.
- If internal converter inspection showed broken stator clutch or shell damage, only a full replacement will correct torque multiplication and noise.

No further questions.
rteeqp73

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