Summary first: determine whether your MF35 has a direct‑mounted fan (bolted to the water pump or fan hub) or a viscous/thermostatic fan clutch. Original MF35 tractors normally have a bolted fan or fan hub; many retrofits may use a viscous clutch. I’ll give clear, separate step‑by‑step procedures for both types, list tools, safety precautions, how each specialty tool is used, common pitfalls, and replacement parts.

Safety first (do these every time)
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock wheels.
- Allow the engine to be cool. Never work on the cooling system while hot.
- Disconnect the battery negative terminal.
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, and steel‑toe shoes.
- Support heavy parts (fan/fan clutch) with a block or strap so they can’t fall when bolts are removed.
- Keep hands/fingers clear of blades; rotate blades by hand only when engine is off and battery disconnected.
- Use jack stands if you lift the tractor; do not rely on a jack alone.

Tools and supplies
- Metric and imperial socket set (deep and standard), ratchet, breaker bar.
- Open/box wrenches, adjustable wrench.
- Torx/Allen bits if aftermarket fasteners are used.
- Fan holding tool or large pry bar and block to prevent fan/waterpump turning.
- Fan clutch wrench set (36mm + 46mm style or vehicle‑specific double wrench) OR a strap wrench for some hubs.
- Fan clutch removal puller (3‑arm puller with appropriate bolts) — required for pressed‑on viscous clutches on some hubs.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, WD‑40 specialist).
- Torque wrench.
- Threadlocker (medium strength, blue) and anti‑seize.
- New fan clutch (or fan assembly), replacement bolts/studs and lock washers, new fan belt if worn, new O‑ring/gasket for water pump if disturbed.
- Rag, solvent, wire brush.

Procedure A — Direct‑bolted fan (common on older MF35)
1. Cool, battery negative disconnected, chock wheels.
2. Remove hood/panel and any shrouds to expose fan and belts.
3. Loosen and remove the fan belt: release belt tensioner or loosen alternator/adjuster bolts and slide belt off.
4. Support the fan assembly with a block of wood or strap around the blades so it can’t drop.
5. Inspect how fan is attached: usually a set of bolts through the fan into the water pump flange or studs. Spray penetrating oil on bolt threads and let soak 10–15 minutes.
6. Using the appropriate socket, remove the fan‑to‑hub bolts. If bolts are seized, use a breaker bar; counterhold the hub/waterpump with a fan holding tool or pry bar for leverage. Avoid prying on the water pump casting.
7. Carefully lower the fan assembly. Keep blade orientation and any shims/spacers in the order and orientation they came off.
8. Inspect bolts/studs and threads. Replace any stretched or corroded bolts and use anti‑seize on the threads when reinstalling. Replace any fan washers/lock washers. If studs pulled out, repair before reassembly.
9. Clean mating surfaces; if you removed a water pump gasket, replace it and follow water pump resealing steps per manual.
10. To install: position fan with any spacers, hand‑start bolts, apply threadlocker if specified, torque bolts to factory spec (if unknown, snug then check after first run). Reinstall belt and shroud, reconnect battery.
11. Start engine, check for wobble, unusual noise, belt alignment, and re‑torque bolts after initial run and cool down.

Procedure B — Viscous/thermostatic fan clutch (if your tractor has one)
1. Same safety steps 1–4 above. Strapping the fan is especially important because the clutch is heavier.
2. Identify the center nut/retaining fastener. Most viscous clutches have a large nut on the water‑pump or crank shaft or studs through the clutch; some use hub studs plus a center nut. Spray penetrating oil on fasteners and let soak.
3. Remove the belt.
4. Use a fan holding tool or a strap wrench around the fan blades to prevent rotation. On many viscous clutches you will need a large fan clutch wrench set: one wrench to counterhold the hex or flats on the clutch, the other to turn the nut. If the clutch is bolted to studs, remove the bolts with appropriate socket.
- How the fan clutch wrench/puller is used: the clutch wrench set fits the hex flats on the clutch body and the separately sized wrench fits the large center nut. Place the holding wrench to prevent rotation, then use the breaker bar on the loosening wrench to break the nut free.
- If the clutch is pressed on or the hub is tight, use a 3‑arm puller: thread puller bolts into the clutch hub evenly, center the puller, and tighten the center forcing bolt. The puller pulls the clutch straight off the shaft. Keep the puller square; tighten evenly to avoid damaging hub or shaft.
5. Once free, carefully lower the fan + clutch assembly. Note any spacers, shims, or dust seals—retain order.
6. Inspect the water pump shaft, bearing area, and O‑ring/gasket. Replace the clutch assembly with the new unit; compare orientation and number of fins/bolts. Replace any studs/bolts with new hardware supplied by the clutch manufacturer. Use medium threadlocker on bolts unless manufacturer says otherwise. Use anti‑seize on shaft threads if specified.
7. Torque center nut and/or bolts to manufacturer spec (consult the clutch manufacturer or service manual). If you used a new viscous clutch, many specify a torque range — do not over‑tighten (can preload bearings), do not under‑tighten.
8. Reinstall belt, shroud, reconnect battery, start engine and check operation. Warm engine and observe clutch engagement, check for leaks and wobble.

Replacement parts commonly needed
- New fan clutch assembly (viscous clutch) or replacement fan assembly/blades.
- Bolts, studs, lock washers. Don’t reuse stretched bolts.
- Fan belt (inspect; replace if >1/8" frayed or glazing).
- Water pump gasket or O‑ring if disturbed.
- Seals, dust covers, and spacers that were present originally.
- Threadlocker/anti‑seize.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Not supporting the fan: fan or clutch can fall and injure you or bend blades — always support before removing bolts.
- Breaking studs or stripping threads: apply penetrating oil, use correct sized sockets, and replace any suspect studs. If studs are seized, heat at the base and use a stud extractor or remove the water pump if necessary.
- Over‑torquing the center nut on a viscous clutch: can overload bearings or preload the clutch — use torque wrench and correct spec.
- Mixing up shims/spacers: keep parts in order and mark orientation. Wrong spacing can cause misalignment and belt wear.
- Forgetting to check belt tension/alignment and shroud clearance: can cause rubbing, noise, or overheating.
- Damaging radiator or hoses while working in tight space: use care with tools and pry bars.
- Not replacing corroded bolts/hardware: reusing corroded hardware risks failure.

Final checks after reassembly
- Reconnect battery; start engine and run at idle; watch for wobble or vibration.
- Check belt tracking and tension.
- Inspect for leaks around water pump or fan hub.
- After a short test run, re‑torque accessible fasteners to spec.
- Reinstall all shields and cowling.

If you need torque values or a model‑specific diagram: consult the MF35 service manual or the fan clutch manufacturer’s instructions for torque specs and any special installation notes.

Done.
rteeqp73

How do you tell a Massey Ferguson 3 cylinder 35 to a Massey Ferguson 35x Vintage tractor Just a short video to help people no the small differences between the Massey ferguson 3 cylinder A 3 152 vintage tractor.

TRACTOR SERVICE HACKS!! DON'T MAKE THIS MISTAKE!! MASSEY, FORD, JOHN DEERE, KUBOTA TRACTOR SERVICE HACKS!! DON'T MAKE THIS MISTAKE!! MASSEY FERGUSON SERVICE GUIDE Support this Farm as a ...

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