Note: some MF35s are petrol/gasoline engines (they use spark plugs). Many MF35s (Perkins diesel variants) use glow plugs instead — diesels do not have spark plugs. Below are ordered steps for petrol spark plugs with the theory and how each action fixes faults.

1) Safety and identification
- Action: Work on a cool engine, ignition off, battery negative disconnected.
- Theory: Prevents burns and accidental high-voltage shock or engine cranking while you’re handling HT leads.

2) Locate and label leads
- Action: Identify each plug and its HT lead; remove and label one lead at a time (or mark cylinder order).
- Theory: Keeps firing order correct. Swapping leads causes misfires even with good plugs.

3) Clean around each plug before removal
- Action: Blow/compressed air or brush away dirt around plug caps.
- Theory: Prevents debris falling into the cylinder when the plug is removed. Foreign debris can score the bore and ruin compression.

4) Remove plug carefully
- Action: Use the correct deep spark-plug socket and a suitable extension; break loose slowly and unscrew by hand once loose.
- Theory: Avoids cross-threading and damage to the head. A seized plug can strip threads—careful removal preserves the cylinder head.

5) Inspect the plug
- Action: Examine electrode, insulator, thread, and porcelain. Look for color and deposits: dry black sooty carbon, wet black oily, white/ash, burnt electrode, cracked insulator.
- Theory and diagnosis:
- Dry black soot → rich mixture or weak ignition.
- Wet oily → oil control (rings/guides/valves) or overfilling.
- White/ash → lean running or overheating.
- Worn/burned electrode or large gap → long service life/overheat/incorrect heat range.
How this fixes the fault: inspection tells whether the plug is the cause (electrical wear/fouling) or a symptom (engine running fault). Replacing a physically damaged/worn plug fixes the ignition source; deposits point you to underlying engine problems.

6) Measure and set gap
- Action: Use a feeler gauge or gap tool to measure electrode gap. Adjust gently if reglapping is required.
- Theory: The gap determines the breakdown voltage and spark energy. Too wide → coil may fail to fire under compression → misfire. Too narrow → weak spark, poor flame kernel, rough idle and poor combustion.
- Typical range: check the factory manual for exact spec; commonly older petrol tractors use about 0.020–0.035 in (0.5–0.9 mm). Confirm MF35 petrol spec before final setting.
How this fixes the fault: correct gap ensures adequate spark energy and consistent ignition across operating conditions.

7) Decide to clean or replace
- Action: Replace plugs that are cracked, electrodes badly worn, glazed, or heavily fouled/oily. Light carbon can be removed carefully, but replacement is preferable for reliability.
- Theory: Worn electrodes increase required voltage and reduce spark intensity. Cleaning may temporarily help, but a new plug restores correct electrode geometry and reliability.
How this fixes the fault: replacing restores proper spark formation; cleaning can help short-term but won’t restore lost metal/electrode shape.

8) Thread and torque correctly on installation
- Action: Start plug by hand to avoid cross-threading. Tighten to the manufacturer’s torque spec. If you don’t have the spec, thread in by hand then tighten with a wrench: used plug ~1/8–1/4 turn after finger-tight; new plug with crush washer ~1/4–1/2 turn after finger-tight. Do not over-torque.
- Theory: Correct torque ensures proper sealing and heat transfer from plug to head. Over-torque can strip threads; under-torque can leak combustion gases and overheat the plug.
How this fixes the fault: correct seating/seal and heat transfer keep the plug operating in its designed temperature range and prevent blow-out or overheating-related failure.

9) HT lead connection and insulation check
- Action: Replace cracked boots or brittle leads. Refit each HT lead on its correct plug firmly.
- Theory: Poor connection or cracked insulation causes voltage leak or weak spark. Replacing leads restores full HT voltage to the plug.
How this fixes the fault: ensures full energy reaches the spark gap so combustion is reliable.

10) Reconnect battery and test
- Action: Reconnect battery, run engine, observe starting, idle, throttle response, smoke and fuel consumption.
- Theory: A healthy plug produces a strong, consistent spark leading to complete combustion — smoother idle, easier starting, better power and lower fuel/black smoke. Persistent symptoms after new plugs indicate ignition coil/points/condensor (or carburetion/fuel/valve/compression) issues.

Additional theory notes (why plugs fail and how replacement corrects the system):
- Electrode erosion: With use the center/ground electrode gap grows, requiring higher voltage to jump and reducing spark energy. Replacing reduces gap to spec and restores energy.
- Fouling: Carbon/oil/fuel deposits insulate the electrode, quench sparks, or cause misfires. New plugs remove that failure mode.
- Heat range: A plug that runs too hot/too cold accelerates deposit formation or electrode wear. Using the correct heat range keeps the plug at the right self-cleaning temperature.
- Electrical system: Weak coil/points or high resistance leads reduce spark regardless of plug condition. Replacing plugs removes one variable; if misfire remains, check the rest of the ignition system.

If your MF35 is a diesel (Perkins), glow plugs replace this role for cold starting:
- Glow plugs heat the combustion chamber to help compression ignition at low temps. Faulty glow plugs cause hard cold-starting and white smoke; they are tested by resistance/operation and replaced individually with a small socket, taking care not to break fragile elements.

End.
rteeqp73

Massey Ferguson 35 Muffler Installation Massey Ferguson 35 Muffler Installation.

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