- Safety first — mandatory precautions
- Chock rear wheels and put transmission in gear (or park with parking brake) to stop movement.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent electrical shorts while cutting/welding.
- Use a hydraulic floor jack rated above the tractor’s weight at the lifting point; always support the chassis/axle on heavy-duty jack stands before working under the tractor — never rely on a jack alone.
- Wear gloves, eye protection, hearing protection, and a welding helmet or face shield when cutting/grinding/welding.
- Keep a fire extinguisher rated for metal/chemical fires nearby during grinding/welding.
- If you are unsure about welding or heavy-load suspension work, get a shop or a certified mechanic to do it.

- What “suspension spring seat” means here (brief)
- The spring seat (perch) is the bracket or machined area on the axle or spring hanger where the leaf spring or coil sits; on an MF35 this commonly refers to the front-axle leaf-spring perch or the rear spring hanger/perch that can wear, corrode, or crack and cause spring misalignment or sag.

- Basic tools you already said you have — detailed descriptions and how to use them
- Hydraulic floor jack
- Description: low-profile jack that lifts heavy loads using hydraulic pressure.
- How to use: place under a solid jacking point (axle tube or engine crossmember), pump handle to raise. Lift just high enough to place jack stands, then lower onto stands. Do not work under the tractor supported only by the jack.
- Jack stands (rated for tractor weight)
- Description: adjustable, heavy-duty stands that support weight safely for extended work.
- How to use: place stands under the axle or frame at manufacturer-recommended points; adjust height, lock pin, then lower jack until weight sits on stands. Check stability before crawling underneath.
- Wheel chocks
- Description: wedges or blocks that prevent wheels from rolling.
- How to use: place snugly against rear tires on both sides prior to jacking.
- Set of metric sockets, ratchet, extensions, and combination wrenches
- Description: sockets and wrenches to remove nuts and bolts (MF35 uses imperial and metric mix — have both SAE and metric).
- How to use: choose correct size, apply in-line with bolt to avoid rounding heads, use breaker bar for stuck bolts, then ratchet for removal.
- Breaker bar
- Description: long-handled non-ratcheting bar for high torque to break loose seized fasteners.
- How to use: fit socket on fastener, apply controlled force. Use penetrating oil first if rusted.
- Torque wrench
- Description: calibrated wrench to tighten nuts/bolts to specified torque.
- How to use: set required torque, tighten smoothly until it clicks; recheck after short use. Required for U-bolts or axle clamp bolts if you replace them.
- Pry bar / large flat screwdriver / dead-blow hammer
- Description: leverage tools to separate components and align parts.
- How to use: pry slowly and evenly to avoid damage; use dead-blow to avoid hammer-marring surfaces.
- Hammer and drift/punch
- Description: drive out pins, align holes.
- How to use: position punch on pin, strike with hammer; support parts to avoid bending.
- Wire brush and wire-wheel for angle grinder
- Description: cleans rust/paint for inspection or welding prep.
- How to use: use grinder at comfortable speed, wear eye protection, remove paint rust where you’ll weld.
- Angle grinder with cutting and flap discs
- Description: high-speed rotary tool for cutting, grinding, and smoothing metal.
- How to use: cut or grind away damaged perch, grind weld prep areas smooth; keep steady pressure and safe stance; sparks fly — clear flammable material.
- C-clamps or heavy-duty vise-grips
- Description: hold parts together during fitting or welding.
- How to use: clamp securely but avoid crushing thin parts; reposition as you weld/fit.
- File or bench grinder
- Description: smooth edges and burrs after cutting.
- How to use: deburr all sharp edges to fit new parts and prevent stress risers.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster), rust penetrant, anti-seize
- Description: helps loosen rusted fasteners and protects threads during reassembly.
- How to use: spray on seized bolts, let soak; clean threads then apply anti-seize to new bolts.
- Wire wheel, scraper, degreaser, rags
- Description: general cleaning to inspect damage.
- How to use: remove grease and scale to reveal cracks.

- Extra tools you may need and why (detailed)
- Welder (MIG or stick) and welding supplies
- Why required: many spring perches are welded to the axle or housing; to repair a cracked or built-up perch you’ll need to weld. MIG is easier for thin metals and for beginners with some practice.
- If you don’t have a welder: replacement perch assemblies or axle housings can be used, or have a shop perform the weld.
- Cutting torch or plasma cutter
- Why required: to remove severely corroded or distorted perches or to cut out a damaged section cleanly before replacement.
- If you lack this, a grinder can cut but will be slower; do not attempt extensive torch cutting without proper skill and precautions.
- Thread chaser or tap-and-die set
- Why required: to clean damaged threads in bolts or holes for reassembly; reuse of thread-damaged bolts is unsafe.
- Bearing puller or hydraulic press (if bushings need pressing)
- Why required: some spring shackles use pressed-in bushings that must be removed/installed squarely.
- New U-bolt press or heavy U-bolt wrench / pry tools
- Why required: U-bolts often seize and require extra leverage to remove and properly torque on reassembly.

- Parts that might need replacement and why
- Spring perch / seat (welded bracket or machined seat)
- Why replace: cracked, warped, excessively worn or corroded perches cannot safely hold the spring and are unsafe. Welding a heavily pitted perch is only temporary if the steel is thin.
- What to get: OE replacement perch or aftermarket perch specific to MF35 front axle or rear hanger. Measure or take the old piece to supplier; MF35 parts are often available through Massey dealers or classic tractor parts suppliers.
- U-bolts and nuts
- Why replace: rusted or stretched — U-bolts clamp the axle to the spring; replace whenever you disturb the clamp and any time they show corrosion.
- What to get: correct diameter and thread pitch for MF35; get grade 8 or equivalent high-strength bolts.
- Spring shackles, pins, and bushings
- Why replace: worn bushings create play; pins can get oval from wear.
- What to get: shackle kits or new pins and pressed-in bushings sized for MF35.
- Leaf spring (if cracked or steel fatigued)
- Why replace: a cracked leaf is unsafe; replacing perch without addressing spring damage is futile.
- What to get: full spring pack or individual leaf per MF35 specifications.
- Axle/housing (rare)
- Why replace: if perch area of axle housing is badly corroded or cracked beyond repair; often replacement housings are expensive and may require a farm shop.

- Preparation & inspection (what to look for)
- Clean area: wire-brush the perch and adjacent axle to expose cracks, corrosion, or missing metal.
- Visual checks: look for weld cracks, metal thinness (pitting through), deformation where the spring sits, elongated bolt holes, or broken weld seams.
- Measure wear: if perch lip is ground down more than 2–3 mm or steel is thin, plan on replacement rather than patch welding.
- Check spring alignment: spring should sit squarely; any lean indicates perch or hanger misalignment.

- Removal and disassembly (safe procedure)
- Support tractor on stands with wheels chocked and battery disconnected.
- Remove weight from the spring: support the axle or chassis accordingly so spring is free to be removed without spring tension. Use an additional jack to take load off the U-bolts.
- Remove U-bolts and nuts: spray penetrating oil, back off nuts with breaker bar. Replace U-bolts if corroded.
- Remove spring center bolt, shackle pins, and spring if necessary to inspect perch fully.
- Remove broken perch if it’s a welded-on style: grind/weld cut the weld seams or cut out section carefully. Keep adjacent axle tube intact.

- Repair options and step-by-step actions (choose based on condition)
- Patch-weld repair (for small cracks and decent metal thickness)
- Clean area with wire wheel and grinder to bare metal to show full crack.
- Preheat thick steel if rust-caked or if cold metal to reduce cracking (optional; experienced welders only).
- Tack weld both ends of the crack to prevent propagation.
- Use a suitable electrode for axle steel (ER70S‑6 wire for MIG or 6011/7018 rods for stick). If unsure, use MIG with short, controlled beads.
- Lay multiple short weld passes, allowing cooling between passes to avoid overheating and warping; peen as necessary to relieve stresses.
- Grind weld smooth and inspect for porosity or cold laps; if weld penetrated fully and looks solid, reassemble.
- Paint and coat welded area with rust inhibitor.
- Why choose: less expensive and fast when metal thickness is okay.
- When not to choose: if metal has pitted through or has major deformation.
- Replace welded-on perch (best long-term)
- Cut out the damaged perch fully back to clean axle metal.
- Fit a replacement perch (OE part or fabricated new perch). Ensure it seats flush against the axle tube; use clamps to hold in place.
- Tack weld in multiple places to hold alignment; check spring centerline with axle/spring to ensure correct orientation.
- Finish weld in controlled passes around the perimeter to avoid warping. Use back-step welding technique: weld short sections, move around, allow cooling.
- If the perch is machined, check seating and grind any interference.
- Replace U-bolts and nuts; torque to spec or evenly tighten until secure (consult manual if possible).
- Why choose: permanent repair when perch is too damaged to weld patch.
- Replace entire hanger or axle section (if severely damaged)
- This is involved and may require removal of axle housing and heavy shop equipment.
- Best left to a shop if you lack lifting capacity/welding expertise.

- Reassembly and alignment
- Clean threads and apply anti-seize to new fasteners.
- Reinstall spring, center bolt, bushings, and shackle pins. Move shackles to ensure free movement.
- Install new U-bolts and nuts; tighten hand-tight, then use torque wrench to tighten in small increments evenly.
- If you do not have exact torque specs, tighten evenly until clamps are firmly seated and the axle-to-spring contact is solid; check after a few hours of use and retorque.
- Lower tractor carefully off stands and jack, then test load and recheck bolts after first operation.

- Testing and verification
- With tractor on ground, bounce the front/rear to check for movement or clunks.
- Inspect welds and perches for heat cracks or deformation.
- Drive slowly and recheck U-bolts, shackle bolts, and spring alignment after 10–20 miles/short field test.

- When to get professional help
- If you cannot weld or lack tools for safe heavy load handling.
- If axle housing appears cracked, distorted, or the repair requires removing the axle.
- If spring steel is cracked or sagging — spring replacement and proper re-tensioning require experience.

- Sourcing parts and referencing specs
- Use an MF35 parts manual or Massey Ferguson dealer to order perch kits, U-bolts, bushings, springs, and shackle pins.
- If manual isn’t available, take old parts to a tractor parts supplier to match diameter, thickness, and hole spacing.

- Quick checklist before you start
- Tractor safely supported, battery disconnected, wheels chocked.
- All necessary sockets, wrench sizes, replacement U-bolts, and shackle pins on hand.
- Grinder, wire brush, welder or plan to buy replacement perch if you can’t weld.
- Fire extinguisher and PPE ready.

- Final safety reminder
- Never work under the tractor unsupported. If any step feels beyond your skill or tools (welding axle components, pressing bushings, replacing axle housing), stop and use a qualified mechanic or fabrication shop.
rteeqp73

1958 Massey Ferguson 35 on the road 1958 Massey Ferguson 35 on the road with my caravan in tow.

Video Operator's Manual for Massey Ferguson 35 Tractor This video shows the basics of how to operate an MF35 tractor as well as identification of a lot of the components of the tractor.

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