Below is a concise, step‑by‑step procedure — from removal to fitment and final checks — for replacing valve guides on a Massey‑Ferguson MF35 (3‑cylinder OHV) cylinder head. Follow the safety notes and common pitfalls to avoid. Use the engine/service manual for torque and final specs; where exact MF35 specs are required I note to check the manual.

Safety first
- Work in a well‑ventilated, well‑lit area.
- Disconnect battery. Drain coolant and oil from the tractor. Remove fuel lines or isolate fuel system; keep open flames away.
- Use safety glasses, gloves and hearing protection.
- Use stable engine/bench stands for the cylinder head; never press or hammer a head that’s unsupported.
- Allow any heated parts to cool before handling; avoid thermal shock.

Parts and consumables typically required
- Replacement valve guides (correct type & OD/length for MF35 head — bronze or cast iron as specified).
- Valve stem seals (always replace).
- New head gasket (if head removed) and any required gaskets/o‑rings.
- Optional: new valves or reconditioned valve faces if worn; new head bolts if service manual requires replacement.
- Cleaning solvent, assembly lube, light oil.

Tools and equipment
- Full metric socket set, torque wrench, breaker bar.
- Valve spring compressor (bench or over‑head type that suits the head).
- Arbor press or hydraulic press (preferred for controlled removal/installation). A heavy‑duty hammer and hardened guide punch/driver set may be used if press is unavailable (less desirable).
- Valve guide driver set (drivers sized to guide OD) and appropriate drift punches.
- Valve guide reamer set with pilot(s) matching valve stem diameter.
- Telescoping gauge or small bore gauge and micrometer or inside micrometer to measure bore/clearance.
- Depth gauge or vernier caliper (for guide protrusion).
- Bench vice with soft jaws or padded blocks to support head (if used).
- Soft‑face hammer, cold chisel/punch (careful), cleaning brushes, solvents.
- Small torch or oven (for controlled heating if required) and freezer for guides if using thermal shrink fit method.
- Valve lapping tool and paste (if lapping valves), or valve grinder if reconditioning required.

Preliminary removal (head off the engine)
1. Remove rocker cover, rocker assembly, pushrods and mark/keep in order. Label each pushrod/rocker to return them to their original positions.
2. Drain coolant, remove radiator hoses and ancillary parts to access head. Remove intake/exhaust manifolds.
3. Remove cylinder head per MF35 procedure; keep head bolts in order and follow tightening/loosening pattern on reassembly. Remove the head and place on a secure bench.

Disassembly of valve components
4. Place head on a flat, stable surface or head stand. Clean lightly to remove dirt to avoid contamination.
5. Using the valve spring compressor, compress each valve spring and remove keepers, springs, seats and valves. Keep valves and spring assemblies paired/labelled with their respective ports (match each valve to its seat on reassembly if planning to reuse). Remove valve stem seals and discard.

Removing old guides
6. Clean around each guide bore to remove carbon/deposits. Inspect valve seats and faces for damage (if seats are badly worn do them now or send out for seat cutting).
7. Method options for removal:
- Arbor press method (preferred): Support the head so the guide will push straight out. Use a guide driver sized to bear on the outer OD of the guide (not on the head metal). Press the guide out in the direction recommended by the manual — typically toward the camshaft side (but check MF35 manual). Use steady, even pressure so the guide comes out straight.
- Heat/shrink + driver: Heat the head around the guide evenly (use oven up to ~120–150°C; avoid overheating >200°C to prevent head warpage) to expand the head, cool frozen replacement guides in a freezer if needed. Use driver/punch to tap the guide out; support head to avoid damage.
- Hammer & driver (least preferred): If no press, use correct sized hardened driver that contacts only guide OD; strike squarely with soft‑face hammer. Be careful — high risk of damaging seat or head.

Notes on direction: The service manual will state preferred removal direction. Many technicians press guides out toward the cam/valve rocker side to avoid disturbing the valve seats, but follow the MF35 manual if available.

Cleaning and head prep
8. Clean the guide bores with solvent and a brush; remove burrs using a countersink lightly if needed on the side you will press from (only remove small burrs). Do NOT change seat geometry.
9. Measure guide bore OD and valve stem diameter (new valve stems or existing valves) — use micrometer and telescoping gauge. Calculate required valve stem clearance. Typical older tractor engines aim for roughly 0.025–0.10 mm (0.001"–0.004") clearance depending on stem and guide materials — confirm MF35 spec. Record measurements.

Installing new guides
10. Check new guides: confirm OD, ID and length and that guides are the correct type for MF35. Replace with manufacturer‑specified guides (bronze or cast iron as per spec). Replace valve stem seals at this point.
11. Heat/cold method for interference fit (preferred for good fit): Heat the head locally or overall to 120–150°C (do not exceed recommended temps). Freeze new guides (optional) to shrink slightly. Align guide square to bore. Using arbor press or guide driver, press the new guide straight into bore to the correct depth. Use the driver on the guide OD only; support the head around bore with a block to prevent crushing.
12. Press in slowly and check depth frequently. Use depth gauge or caliper to set guide protrusion above the mating face as specified by MF35 manual. Some guides have a flange or step to locate depth — if so, ensure flange sits flush. If the guide is meant to protrude above the combustion face, verify that dimension.
13. If driver uses hammer, keep blows light and square. Avoid contacting valve seat surfaces.

Reaming and finishing the guide ID
14. After installing all guides, warm the head if needed to relieve any interference; then pilot‑ream each guide to correct ID. Use the correct valve guide reamer with the proper pilot (pilot should sit on valve stem or in seat to maintain concentricity).
15. Ream with steady rotation (use hand‑reamer for control) and light cutting oil. Take very small cuts; remove a little at a time. Frequently clean chips and measure bore ID. Aim for manufacturer recommended clearance between valve stem and guide.
16. Debur both ends of the guide bore lightly, and clean thoroughly. Blow out with compressed air and solvent to remove swarf.

Check clearances and valve fit
17. Insert each valve into its guide and check stem end‑play and lateral movement. Use a dial indicator or feel for tight spots. Valve should move freely with minimal side‑play within spec. Measure stem‑to‑guide clearance with a telescoping gauge and micrometer.
18. Replace valve stem seals onto new guides. Install valve springs, seats and retainers. Use valve spring compressor to install keepers. Confirm correct orientation and seating.

Final head work and reassembly
19. Pressure test or leak test head if possible. Lapping valves: If valve faces and seats are serviceable, lap valves to seats or have valve seats re‑cut if previously disturbed. Clean all lapping paste residues out.
20. Clean mating surfaces; fit new head gasket. Reinstall head and torque head bolts to MF35 torque sequence and values. Reinstall rocker assembly, pushrods (original order), adjust valve clearance per spec after running to temp if required. Refill coolant and oil. Reconnect battery and fuel lines.
21. Run engine and check for leaks, unusual noises; recheck valve clearances after initial run‑in.

How the main specialized tools are used (quick)
- Valve spring compressor: Compresses springs to remove/install keepers without dropping valves. Use appropriate style for the head; keep springs paired.
- Arbor/hydraulic press: Provides gradual, straight force to press guides out and in; avoids shock damage. Use correct sized driver to contact guide OD only. Support the head so the force travels through guide into the press bed.
- Guide driver set: Drivers are sized to bear on guide OD to extract/insert. Select driver that matches guide OD; use press or hammer with controlled blows.
- Valve guide reamer with pilot: Pilot centers the reamer on the valve stem to ensure concentricity; rotate slowly, use cutting oil, remove small amounts until the target clearance is reached.
- Telescoping gauge + micrometer/inside micrometer: Measure bore and stem to calculate clearance. Measure often.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Damaging valve seats: Support the head and use a press rather than hammering, drive guides in the direction advised by manual. If in doubt, press from the camshaft side to avoid hitting seat faces.
- Installing guides crooked: Use press and proper driver; support the head and keep guide square. Misalignment will wear valve stems and seats.
- Overheating head: Don’t exceed ~150–200°C; excessive heat can warp the head and ruin valve seat hardening.
- Wrong guide ID/clearance: Always measure valve stems and select guides or ream to provide correct clearance. Too loose = oil burning and poor sealing; too tight = sticking valves.
- Not replacing valve stem seals: Always replace seals when guides are replaced — seals are cheap and necessary.
- Not cleaning swarf: Metal chips in the head will destroy valve seats or jam valves. Clean thoroughly after reaming.
- Using wrong driver size or striking valve seats: Use drivers that contact only guide OD. When hammering, protect seats.
- Reusing heavily worn valves: If stems or faces are scored or worn beyond spec, replace valves.
- Skipping lapping or seat cutting: If seats were affected during guide removal/installation, lap or have seats recut.

Final checks and break‑in
- Recheck valve clearances after initial warm‑up run and after several hours of operation.
- Monitor oil consumption and blow‑by; excessive oil burning indicates guide or seal problems.

That’s the complete workflow. Follow the MF35 service manual for all torque values, depth dimensions, and exact valve stem‑to‑guide clearance specs.
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Massey Ferguson 35 rear lift not lifting troubleshooting part 1 In this video we work on a Massey Ferguson tractor that does not lift its rear hitch arms and try to diagnose and fix the problem.

Parade Tractor Massey Ferguson 35

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