1) What the oil pump does (theory)
- Purpose: deliver a controlled flow of lubricant from the sump to bearings, cam, piston cooling jets and the oil filter, and maintain a safe system pressure for engine lubrication.
- How it works: most MF35-era engines use a positive-displacement pump (gear or rotor type) driven by the cam/timing gears. The pump draws oil through a pickup screen, traps a fixed volume of oil and forces it into the pressure gallery. Because it is positive-displacement, flow is roughly proportional to speed; a pressure‑relief valve limits maximum pressure by returning excess flow to the sump.
- Key variables: pump internal clearances (gear-to-body and gear-to-gear), pickup restriction, relief valve seating/setting, drive alignment and timing. Low pressure = excessive clearances, blocked pickup, stuck-open relief valve, worn drive. Intermittent pressure/noise = cavitation from air ingress or worn pump gears.

2) Typical failure modes and how they show up (diagnosis theory)
- Low steady pressure: usually excessive internal clearances (wear) or relief valve stuck open. Also a blocked pickup or collapsed hose reduces flow.
- Rapid drop in pressure at idle: worn pump or relief valve letting flow bypass; bearings still may be marginal.
- No pressure / long crank before pressure: pump starving for oil (blocked pickup/air leak) or broken drive.
- Ticking/noise + low pressure: cavitation (air) or pump cavitation from worn components.
- Oil contamination / metal in oil: internal wear or bearing debris affecting clearance.
Diagnosis principle: measure pressure with a gauge, inspect pickup/screen, and isolate pump function from filter/engine bearings (if pressure appears at pump outlet when disconnected from engine galleries the pump is functional).

3) Preparation (why each step matters)
- Drain oil and remove battery connection: prevents spills and electrical short.
- Remove accessories/obstructions to access timing cover: pump is usually inside/behind timing cover; access is required to remove pump safely without damaging other components.
- Keep organized: gaskets, timing marks and shims affect alignment — wrong reassembly causes mis-timing or oil feed failures.

4) Removing the oil pump (ordered, with reasons)
- Remove timing/cover and note timing marks: pump drive is timed/aligned; maintain marks so cam/rocker timing and oil passages remain correct.
- Expose pump and pickup: inspect screen visually; a clogged screen is an easy fix and explains starvation.
- Unbolt pump from housing and withdraw drive gear/shaft: observe relative position of drive parts. Removing the pump lets you directly inspect internals and measure wear that explains low pressure.

Why this fixes/locates faults: getting pump out isolates the pump from engine bearings so you can test and measure it independently and remove blockages at the pickup that cause starvation.

5) Inspection and measurement (what to look for and why)
- Pickup screen: holes, sludge, or deformation — a blocked screen reduces flow; a damaged pickup can draw air.
- Pump gears/rotors: check for scoring, pitting, rounded teeth and radial play. Wear increases internal leakage and reduces pressure.
- Pump housing and cover faces: measure running clearances/side play against service limits. Excess clearance -> lower volumetric efficiency -> low pressure.
- Relief valve and seat: clean, check spring tension and free movement. A stuck or weak spring causes relief at too low pressure.
- Drive/shaft and key: check for wear that causes poor engagement or wobble leading to noise and rapid wear.

Theory linking inspection to symptom: increased internal leakage (from worn gears/clearances) reduces the displaced volume per revolution, so less oil reaches galleries, reducing pressure. A stuck relief valve bypasses oil back to sump even if pump is healthy.

6) Repair/overhaul actions (ordered, with the “why”)
- Clean pickup and oil passages: restores unrestricted inlet flow, eliminating cavitation/air ingestion.
- Replace pump gears/rotor and cover or rebuild with new correct parts if wear exceeds service limits: restores correct clearances and volumetric efficiency so pump delivers designed flow and pressure.
- Recondition or replace relief valve and spring: ensures relief opens only at correct pressure; prevents premature bypass.
- Replace gaskets/seals and O-rings at pump and cover: prevents air ingress and oil leaks which reduce pump suction and pressure.
- Replace or refit drive key/shaft if worn and ensure proper alignment: avoids wobble and premature wear that changes clearances.
- If using shims (on some pumps) set clearance per spec: correct side and end clearance avoid rubbing yet minimize leakage.

How repair fixes the fault: rebuilding restores the pump’s ability to pick up and displace oil without leak paths or bypasses; fixing the relief valve stops unwanted bypass; new pickup and seals prevent air starvation.

7) Reassembly and setup (ordered, with theory)
- Refit pump with clean mating surfaces and correct gasket/sealant: avoids leaks and air ingress.
- Reinstall drive gear/shaft and align timing marks: correct drive prevents shear, maintains cam timing, and ensures the pump runs at intended speed.
- Torque fasteners to spec (use appropriate values): prevents distortion that would change clearances.
- Prime the pump before first start: fill pump body/outlet or crank engine with starter to circulate oil. Why: positive-displacement pumps can run dry briefly on initial start; priming avoids immediate dry-lubrication of bearings and prevents cavitation damage.
- Refill engine with correct oil and quantity.

8) Testing after repair (what to measure and why)
- Fit a pressure gauge at the engine oil gallery and observe cold/warm readings at idle and higher rpm. You expect a steady pressure rise with rpm and not hitting relief at normal revs. This verifies volumetric and pressure performance.
- Check for leaks at pump and around seals, and confirm pickup draws oil (visual or by smell of warmed oil).
- Listen for abnormal noises or cavitation. Absence of noise indicates eliminated air ingestion and correct clearances.
- Re-check after short run: re-torque if required and re-inspect for leaks.

9) How each common repair corrects the original fault (concise mapping)
- Cleaned pickup / replaced screen -> fixes starvation and cavitation; pressure recovers because inlet flow is restored.
- Replaced/geared pump internals -> fixes low pressure due to internal leakage; new gears restore displaced volume so pressure returns to spec.
- Repaired relief valve -> fixes incorrect bypassing; pressure no longer dumps to sump prematurely.
- Replaced seals/gaskets and corrected drive alignment -> fixes intermittent pressure drops and noise caused by air ingress and mechanical wobble.

10) Final notes (brief)
- Don’t ignore oil contamination — metal in oil suggests wider engine wear beyond the pump; the pump is a symptom as well as a victim.
- Measuring clearances and pressures before and after rebuild is the only reliable way to confirm success.
rteeqp73

Trying to get the Massey Ferguson 35 started after full rebuild! #skills #oldtimer #diesel #perki...

Video Operator's Manual for Massey Ferguson 35 Tractor This video shows the basics of how to operate an MF35 tractor as well as identification of a lot of the components of the tractor.

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