- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses, nitrile or mechanic’s gloves, and protective clothing; diesel and cleaning solvents irritate skin and eyes.
- Work outdoors or in a well‑ventilated area; diesel fumes are harmful and flammable.
- Park tractor on level ground, set handbrake, remove ignition key, and disconnect the battery negative cable to avoid accidental cranking while working on injectors.
- Let the engine cool fully before working on the injection area; metal and fuel lines can be very hot.
- Keep a fire extinguisher rated for flammable liquids nearby when working on fuel systems.

- Basic tools you should have (detailed descriptions and how to use them)
- Combination wrench set (metric and imperial sizes)
- Description: Open end on one side and box end on the other; various sizes.
- Use: For loosening/tightening injector clamp nuts, banjo/fuel fittings, pump fittings. Use the box end for maximum grip; pull the wrench toward you, not push.
- Flare‑nut (line) wrench set
- Description: Wrenches with a six‑point opening that wraps more around a nut than a standard open wrench.
- Use: Prevents rounding off fuel line nuts on injector pipes and pump fittings; place wrench fully on the nut and turn slowly.
- Socket set with ratchet and extension bars
- Description: Sockets for hex nuts in confined spaces, with ratchet handle and extensions.
- Use: Remove clamps, rocker covers, and any bolts holding injector clamps. Use correct size socket and a slow, steady motion.
- Torque wrench (click‑type)
- Description: Wrench that lets you apply a precise torque and clicks when value reached.
- Use: Tighten injector clamp bolts/nuts and fuel-line fittings to the manufacturer’s torque spec; prevents over‑ or under‑tightening which can damage components or cause leaks.
- Injector puller / extractor or deep socket and soft‑face mallet
- Description: Injector puller is a specialist tool that threads into the injector to withdraw it; deep impact‑style sockets can be used carefully with a slide hammer or soft mallet to free stuck injectors.
- Use: Injectors often seize in the head—use the puller per its instructions or gently tap an approved extractor; avoid prying that could break the injector.
- Small screwdriver set and picks
- Description: Flat and Phillips screwdrivers and small picks.
- Use: Remove clips and seals; clean around injector seats and remove stubborn deposits.
- Wire brush and soft‑bristled brush
- Description: Metal wire brush for heavy grime and softer brush for delicate surfaces.
- Use: Clean the area around injectors before opening to avoid debris falling into the combustion chamber.
- Clean lint‑free rags and disposable shop towels
- Description: Absorbent, non‑shedding cloths.
- Use: Wipe surfaces, catch fuel drips, keep openings clean.
- Container for catching fuel
- Description: Clean metal or approved plastic container.
- Use: Capture fuel when loosening lines to avoid spills.
- Diesel or mild solvent and parts‑cleaning brush
- Description: Diesel fuel or approved cleaner; not gasoline.
- Use: Clean injector exterior and pipe fittings; absorbent rags for cleaning up spills.
- Magnetic tray or small parts organizer
- Description: Tray to keep nuts, bolts, and washers organized.
- Use: Prevent losing small parts like copper crush washers.
- Pry bar (small) / pliers
- Description: Small lever tool and locking pliers for stubborn clamps.
- Use: Gently free stuck clips or adjust components.

- Extra / specialist tools you may need (why they are required)
- Injector nozzle tester / bench tester
- Why: Verifies spray pattern, opening pressure, and that the nozzle is functioning correctly. Without it you can’t reliably test injector performance.
- Ultrasonic parts cleaner
- Why: Thoroughly cleans nozzle and body deposits if you plan to reuse injectors rather than replacing them.
- Bench vise with soft jaws
- Why: Holds injector for inspection and cleaning without damaging the body.
- Injector regrinding / service kit (nozzle/needle)
- Why: If the nozzle spray pattern is poor you may be able to replace the nozzle/needle assembly instead of entire injector.
- Injector removal slide‑hammer or professional injector puller kit
- Why: Injectors often seize by carbon build‑up or corrosion; these tools remove them without damage.
- Service manual for Massey Ferguson MF35 (or engine make/model)
- Why: Gives torque specs, injector part numbers, and correct removal/installation procedures; invaluable and prevents damage.

- Parts that commonly need replacement and why
- Injector nozzle (complete injector or nozzle tip)
- Why: Nozzles wear or clog, producing poor spray, hard starting, black smoke, loss of power. Replacement restores correct atomization.
- Injector body (complete injector)
- Why: If injector is cracked, internally damaged, or the nozzle/needle assembly is not serviceable, replace complete injector.
- Copper crush washers / sealing washers
- Why: These create the high‑pressure seal between the injector and the cylinder head; they deform and must be replaced whenever the injector is removed to prevent leaks.
- High‑pressure injector pipes (delivery pipes)
- Why: Pipes can be corroded, dented, or cracked; a damaged pipe causes leaks and pressure loss. Replace if damaged or if fitting seats are corroded.
- Injector clamp studs/nuts or clamp plates
- Why: If the clamp hardware is distorted or threads are damaged, they will not hold the injector securely; they should be replaced.
- O‑rings and seals (if used)
- Why: Prevent leaks at low‑pressure fuel connections; replace when disturbed.
- Fuel filters and lift/primer pump components (optional)
- Why: If injectors are fouled by contaminants, the primary filter or lift pump may also need attention to prevent re‑contamination.

- Procedure to inspect, remove, and replace injectors (stepwise bullets; assume basic tools and some specialist items may be needed)
- Prepare workspace: disconnect battery negative, clean the top of the engine thoroughly around injectors so dirt does not fall into the combustion chamber when lines are opened.
- Label and photograph connections: use tape to label each injector pipe to its corresponding injector and injection pump port so you don’t mix lines.
- Relieve pressure and catch fuel: place container under fuel lines, slowly loosen a high‑pressure injector line nut at the injector or pump to relieve any trapped pressure. Be ready to catch diesel.
- Remove injector clamps and lines: use flare‑nut wrench on the pipe fittings and the correct socket/wrench for clamp nuts; keep all copper washers and small parts tracked.
- Extract injectors: try to pull the injector straight out by hand first; if stuck, use an injector puller or carefully use a deep socket and soft‑face mallet/puller tool to free it. Do not twist the injector body violently—this can damage the seat.
- Inspect removed injector and seat:
- Clean exterior and examine nozzle for heavy carbon, scoring, or damage.
- Inspect the injector face and seat in the cylinder head for pitting or debris.
- Replace copper crush washer always.
- If injector is suspect (poor spray, visible damage, stuck needle), replace or send for professional testing/reconditioning.
- Fit replacement or serviced injector:
- Place new copper washer on injector.
- Insert injector squarely into the seat; don’t force or tilt.
- Refit clamp/retaining hardware and hand‑tighten.
- Tighten clamp nuts to the manufacturer’s torque spec using a torque wrench (do not eyeball).
- Re‑fit high‑pressure lines:
- Reconnect each injector pipe to its corresponding pump port in the same order; use new crush washers where required.
- Tighten flare‑nut fittings to proper torque—use flare‑nut wrench and torque wrench if you have torque specs.
- Bleed the fuel system:
- Use the tractor’s manual priming pump (or hand‑pump on filter) to prime fuel until all air is expelled—watch for steady, air‑free fuel at loosened injector nuts if you used that point for bleeding.
- Tighten any bleed points while priming as soon as air stops and steady fuel flows.
- Reconnect battery negative.
- Start engine and check:
- Crank and start; watch for leaks at the injector joints, clamps, and fuel lines.
- Run engine at low throttle and inspect each injector area for fuel seepage.
- If engine runs rough or smokes from one cylinder, suspect injector still faulty or air in line—shut down and re‑bleed/check.
- Final torque check:
- After a short run and allowing things to cool slightly, recheck torque on clamp nuts and fuel fittings to ensure nothing has worked loose.

- How to use a few of the specialist tools (brief how‑to)
- Flare‑nut wrench
- Slip the wrench fully over the nut so the wrench walls hug the flats; turn slowly; if it slips, back off and refit to avoid rounding the nut.
- Torque wrench (click type)
- Set desired torque, snug the fastener with a regular wrench, then apply the torque wrench until it clicks once—do not continue turning after the click.
- Injector puller
- Follow the tool’s instructions: thread extractor into injector (or fit adapter), use the slide hammer to apply straight, even pulling force until injector breaks free. Keep everything aligned to avoid damaging injector or head.
- Bleeding with loosened injector nut
- Loosen nut until fuel drips when priming; pump until no bubbles appear in fuel and the drip is steady; tighten nut while pumping slowly to avoid air re‑entry.

- When you should replace rather than clean or rebuild
- Replace injector if it’s cracked, the nozzle needle is scored, the spray pattern is completely degraded and cannot be restored, or the injector fails bench tests (leaks, improper opening pressure).
- Replace injector if it is physically seized in the head and extractor risks breaking the injector tip—often cheaper and safer to replace.
- If multiple injectors show similar wear or the tractor has high hours, consider replacing the whole set to restore balanced performance.

- Recommended spare parts to keep when servicing
- Injector copper crush washers (one per injector)
- Injector clamp studs/nuts if corroded
- New high‑pressure pipe washers/seals if applicable
- New injector(s) if any are faulty
- New fuel filter and O‑rings

- Common problems and quick diagnostics
- Hard starting and white/gray/black smoke: suspect injector nozzle wear or wrong spray pattern—replace or test the nozzle.
- Fuel smell and visible leaks at fittings: tighten fittings and replace crush washers or damaged pipes.
- One cylinder weak or misfiring: swap injectors between cylinders to see if the problem follows the injector (if it does, replace that injector).

- Final notes and safety reminders
- If you do not have an injector tester or extractor, or if injectors are heavily carboned/seized, have a reputable diesel shop test and service them—injector bench testing requires specialist equipment.
- Always use correct replacement parts (match part numbers to your MF35 engine model); wrong injectors or pipes can cause severe engine damage.
- Dispose of used diesel and contaminated rags per local regulations.

- Quick prioritized checklist (what to buy if you have only basic tools)
- Flare‑nut wrench set, torque wrench, injector copper washers, new injector(s) if needed, container for fuel, safety gear. These cover the most likely needs; add an injector puller or professional help if injectors are stuck.

End.
rteeqp73

Parade Tractor Massey Ferguson 35

Massey Ferguson 35 tractor data and specifications Data and specifications for the MF 35 tractor.

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Massey Ferguson Tractor Parts - Agriline Products In December 1957 the MF35, the first Massey Ferguson branded tractor was produced. It was a Ferguson design that started in 1955 as the Ferguson 35 (FE35), often nicknamed "Gold Belly" due to the gold engine and gearbox. The Massey Ferguson 35 fitted with a Perkins 3 cylinder engine was massively popular and sold well across the world.

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Massey Ferguson 35 - Wikipedia The Massey Ferguson 35 (MF35) is a tractor produced by Massey Ferguson. History United States. In 1953 a team led by Hermann Klemm started developing a new model for Ferguson, known as the TO35, to replace the TO30. Klemm wrote to Harry Ferguson in July that year to tell him about the features of the TO35. Ferguson was unhappy with ...

Massey Ferguson 135 - Wikipedia The Massey Ferguson 135 (MF135) was a tractor produced by Massey Ferguson. History. The MF135 was the first of the MF100 range, and was a successor to the MF35. Production began in 1964 and ended in 1975, when it was succeeded by the MF235. Several hundred thousand ...

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