Tools & supplies
- Spark plug socket (with rubber insert) — common sizes 14 mm (9/16") or 5/8" (16 mm). Confirm size fits your plugs.
- 3/8" drive ratchet, 3/8" extension(s), wobble/swivel joint as needed.
- Torque wrench (0–50 Nm / 0–40 ft·lb range).
- Feeler gauge or spark plug gap tool.
- Compressed air or small brush and rag.
- Dielectric grease (optional) and small thread lubricant/anti‑seize only if specified by plug maker.
- Replacement spark plugs (correct part number/heat range for MF35 petrol engine) and new crush washers if required.
- Insulated pliers or spark plug boot puller, gloves, safety glasses.
- Battery wrench to disconnect negative terminal.

Safety first
- This procedure is for petrol (spark‑ignition) MF35 models. If your MF35 is diesel (Perkins, etc.) it uses glow plugs and a different procedure.
- Park on level ground, engine OFF, keys removed. Let engine fully cool.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal to prevent accidental cranking/shorts.
- No smoking/open flames. Wear eye protection and gloves.
- Have a fire extinguisher nearby if working with fuel system components.

Step‑by‑step procedure
1. Identify plugs and ignition leads
- Locate the three spark plug leads on the head (MF35 petrol is a 3‑cylinder). Note/mark lead order if necessary.

2. Clean area around each plug
- Use compressed air or a brush to blow/vacuum away dirt and grit around plug caps to avoid debris falling into the cylinder when the plug is removed.

3. Remove ignition lead/boot
- Grasp the boot (not the wire) and twist slightly while pulling straight out. Use a boot puller or insulated pliers if stiff. Mark leads so you return them to the same plug.

4. Break the plug loose
- Fit the correct spark plug socket (with rubber insert to hold the plug), extension and ratchet. Turn counterclockwise to break the plug loose. Use a wobble joint if access is tight.

5. Remove the plug
- Lift the plug out and place it on a clean rag. Inspect porcelain for cracks and the threads/electrode for wear, oil or heavy carbon.

6. Inspect and gap the replacement plug
- Check the new plug’s part number and heat range match spec. Use a feeler gauge to set the electrode gap to the manufacturer’s spec (if manual not available, typical range 0.020–0.035" / 0.5–0.9 mm). Bend gently at the ground electrode only; avoid straining the center electrode.

7. Prepare plug threads
- If the plug has a crush washer, ensure it’s properly fitted. Do not overuse anti‑seize unless the plug manufacturer recommends it (anti‑seize changes torque readings). A light coat of copper anti‑seize is optional for steel threads in highly corroded environments — otherwise leave dry and rely on correct torque.

8. Hand‑start the plug
- Thread the new plug in by hand through the socket to avoid cross‑threading. If resistance is felt, back off and re‑start. Never force.

9. Torque the plug
- Tighten with a torque wrench to the specified torque. Typical spark plug torque for small engines is about 20–25 Nm (15–18 ft·lb). If you do not have a torque wrench, tighten by hand until snug and then give 1/4 to 1/2 turn (follow manufacturer guidance if available).

10. Reinstall ignition lead
- Apply a tiny dab of dielectric grease inside the boot if desired, then push the boot fully onto the plug until it clicks or seats firmly. Ensure lead routing is correct and not touching exhaust or hot surfaces.

11. Repeat for remaining plugs
- Do plugs one at a time so you don’t mix up leads or leave a cylinder open to debris.

12. Final checks
- Reconnect battery negative terminal. Start engine and listen for smooth idle. Check for misfires, rough running, or any signs of cross‑threaded plugs (smoke, oil/air leaks).

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Cross‑threading the spark plug: always thread by hand first.
- Overtightening: use a torque wrench or follow hand‑tight + specified turns. Overtightening can strip the head.
- Using anti‑seize routinely: it alters torque value; only use if recommended by the plug manufacturer.
- Wrong gap: leads to misfire or poor running — always set gap to spec.
- Pulling on the wire instead of the boot: this damages the conductor.
- Not cleaning around the plug: debris can fall into cylinder.
- Replacing with wrong heat‑range or wrong thread plug: check the manual/parts list.

Replacement parts & consumables
- Correct number (3) of spark plugs (OEM or equivalent part for MF35 petrol engine).
- New crush washers if plugs use them (many plugs have integrated sealing washers).
- Optional: new ignition leads if cracked/aged, dielectric grease, small tube of anti‑seize (use only if recommended).

How the main tools are used
- Spark plug socket: has rubber insert to grip plug; fits over plug hex. Use with extension and ratchet to remove/install.
- Ratchet & extension: give leverage and reach; use a wobble/swivel if alignment is awkward.
- Torque wrench: set target torque, slowly tighten to that value to ensure correct clamping and avoid stripping.
- Feeler gauge/gap tool: slides between electrodes to set correct spark gap.
- Compressed air: blows debris away from plug area before removal.

Done.
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