Tools & parts
- Tools: tape measure (metric & SAE), 2 toe plates or straightedge + 2 small blocks, string & weights (alternative to plates), digital caliper or feeler gauge (optional), 3/8" & 1/2" drive socket set, open-end wrenches (8–24 mm), adjustable spanner, breaker bar, torque wrench, jack and axle stands, wheel chocks, hammer & punch, punch/center punch for locking tabs, grease gun, penetrating oil.
- Replacement parts commonly required if worn: tie‑rod ends, adjustable tie‑rod sleeve(s), locknuts/cotter pins, kingpin bushings or shims, wheel bearings/seals. Have new parts on hand if play is found.

Safety first
- Work on a level, hard surface. Chock rear wheels. Engage parking brake and remove ignition key.
- Alignment is most accurate with the tractor resting on its wheels (normal ride height). If you must lift front for inspections or part replacement, support securely on axle stands—never rely on a jack alone.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Keep hands clear of pinch points when turning steering.
- If you replace kingpins/bushings or bearings, use proper press or tools; don’t improvise.

Overview of what you adjust on an MF35
- Primary adjustments: toe (total toe‑in/toe‑out) and steering wheel centering (thrust angle). MF35 front axle/caster/camber are generally fixed; worn kingpins/bushings or bent components are replaced rather than “adjusted.”
- You must inspect and correct worn components (tie‑rod ends, sleeves, kingpins, wheel bearings) before aligning.

Preparation
1. Tires: check and set recommended tire pressures and condition. Unequal pressures give false readings.
2. Visual/physical inspection: with the front wheels on the ground, check for play at tie‑rod ends, drag link, steering arm, wheel bearings, and kingpin bushings. Any perceptible play means replace worn parts before alignment.
3. Clean tire tread and rims where you will measure so measurements are repeatable.
4. Center steering wheel: turn steering so the front wheels appear straight ahead. Note/mark steering wheel center (draw a line on wheel and dash or use tape).

Measurement methods (choose one)
A — Toe plates (recommended simple method):
- Place toe plates flat against the outer faces of both tires at hub center height (axle center). Use identical points on tread circumference front and rear of each tire.
- Measure distance between plates at the front of the tires and at the rear of the tires using a tape measure. Record front distance (F) and rear distance (R).
- Total toe = R − F (if rear distance larger than front = toe‑in). Divide by 2 for each wheel’s toe change relative to straight ahead.

B — String method:
- Run a taut string around both tires, parallel to tractor centerline and at axle center height. Use small blocks or weights to keep string taut and equidistant from each wheel. Measure distance from string to rim or to a fixed plate on each wheel at front and rear positions. Adjust until front and rear differences give desired toe value.

Target alignment numbers
- MF35 typical target: slight toe‑in. Aim for total toe‑in of approximately 1/8" to 1/4" (3–6 mm) measured between front and rear of tires. (Keep conservative – this prevents excessive scrub and tire wear.)
- Steering wheel: centered when tractor is rolling straight. If wheel off‑center after toe set, correct by small equal/unequal adjustments described below.

Step‑by‑step alignment
1. With tractor on the ground and engine off, mark wheel centerline reference points on both tires at axle height (use chalk or tape).
2. Place toe plates or rig string at axle center height. Take initial front (F0) and rear (R0) measurements. Record.
3. Calculate current total toe = R0 − F0. Compare to target (3–6 mm).
4. Locate tie‑rod sleeve and locknuts on the drag link/tie‑rod assembly. Clean the area and apply penetrating oil if nuts are tight.
5. Loosen locknuts on both ends of the adjustable tie‑rod sleeve(s). On MF35 there is usually a central adjustable sleeve; loosen both locknuts so sleeve can be rotated.
6. Adjust toe:
- To increase toe‑in (bring fronts closer together): shorten the tie‑rod assembly (turn sleeve so it threads inward, shortening distance between wheel steering arms).
- To create toe‑out (decrease toe‑in): lengthen the assembly.
- Make small turns (1/4–1/2 turn), then re‑tighten locknuts temporarily and re‑measure F and R.
7. Iterate adjustments until total toe is within target range. Recheck measurements at least twice.
8. Center steering wheel / set thrust angle:
- If wheels track straight but steering wheel is off center, correct by turning the tie‑rod sleeve so one wheel moves slightly relative to the other to center the wheel while preserving toe. This usually means turning one tie rod end relative to the other or using the sleeve to shift both equally.
- Alternate: set toe to target, then incrementally adjust one end of the tie rod slightly until steering wheel is centered. Recheck toe and re‑adjust as needed.
9. When satisfied with toe and wheel centering, torque locknuts to correct spec (use MF manual if available). If no spec, tighten firmly so sleeve won’t move but do not overstress threads—use penetrating oil if necessary. Replace any damaged locknuts or cotter pins.
10. Grease fittings: lubricate tie‑rod ends, joints, and kingpins per service schedule.
11. Road check: drive tractor forward a short distance on a flat surface, then recheck alignment. Wheels and steering may settle; remeasure and fine‑tune if necessary.

How the adjustment works (tool use explained)
- Toe plates: create fixed reference planes at the same height on both tires so you can measure front and rear separation. Changing the length of the tie rod moves the wheels inward/outward equally affecting whether the front edges are closer (toe‑in) or farther (toe‑out).
- String method: the string acts like a continuous straight reference line. Measuring from the string to a fixed wheel point at front and rear replicates the plate method without bulky plates.
- Tie‑rod sleeve: by rotating the sleeve, you change the effective length of the steering linkage. Because both wheels are tied together, this changes toe. Rotating sleeve clockwise shortens (increases toe‑in), counterclockwise lengthens (reduces toe‑in).

Common pitfalls & what to avoid
- Aligning with uneven/incorrect tire pressures — causes false results.
- Performing alignment with front wheels off the ground or without weight on tires — suspension geometry changes and readings will be wrong.
- Failing to repair worn components first — tie‑rod, kingpin, or bearing play will make alignment impossible to hold.
- Over‑tightening or under‑tightening locknuts — sleeve will seize or move under load. Replace seized or damaged sleeves rather than forcing them.
- Measuring at inconsistent heights or using different points on tread — be consistent and measure at axle center height.
- Ignoring steering wheel centering — results in crooked steering or off‑center wheel even with correct toe.
- Assuming caster/camber adjustable — on MF35 these are largely fixed; attempt to “adjust” by tie rod can mask underlying wear or bent parts.
- Using hammer blows to force parts straight — replace bent parts.

When to replace parts
- If any play is felt at tie‑rod ends, replace tie‑rod end(s) and sleeve if threads are worn.
- If kingpin play exists, replace kingpin bushings/shims or kingpin assemblies.
- If wheel bearings have play or noise, service/replace bearings and seals.
- Replace locknuts, split pins/cotter pins, and any corroded hardware.

Final checks & maintenance
- After alignment, road test and recheck after 10 miles/operation cycles.
- Periodically check for play and re‑grease joints. Keep tires properly inflated.
- If you cannot hold alignment (it drifts), recheck for worn components or bent steering arms and replace as needed.

Done.
rteeqp73

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