1) Quick summary of the theory (two sentences)
- The hydraulic brake system transmits force from the pedal to the wheel brake by pressurising incompressible fluid in metal lines and hoses; any leak or air ingress reduces pressure and gives a soft/spongy pedal or loss of braking.
- Replacing a damaged brake line removes the leak path and, after proper bleeding to remove air, restores a closed, incompressible fluid circuit so applied pedal force produces hydraulic pressure at the brakes.

2) What to check first (diagnosis, brief)
- Confirm symptom: visible fluid leak, low fluid level in reservoir, or spongy/ineffective pedal. Inspect line for cracks, kinks, corrosion, crushed sections, or loose fittings. If leak at banjo or flare fittings, check washers and flare condition — sometimes only the seal hardware must be replaced.

3) Tools, materials and parts
- Flare-nut wrenches (line wrenches), sockets, ratchet, torque wrench.
- Correct replacement brake line (same routing, length, fitting type and flare standard), new copper/crush washers for banjo bolts or new flare nut if required.
- Appropriate brake fluid (manufacturer-specified DOT grade — do not substitute blindly).
- Catch container, clear tubing for bleeding, rags, safety glasses, gloves, jack and properly rated stands.
- Bleeding tool or vacuum pump (optional).

4) Safety and preparation (why)
- Brake fluid is corrosive to paint and will contaminate the system; protect painted surfaces and have rags. Support tractor safely because you will be working under/wheel-off. Relieving load and preventing movement avoids injury and prevents line damage while removing.

5) Ordered procedure with the theory for each step

A. Prepare and isolate system
- Park on level ground, engage park brake (if safe), shut engine. Raise and support tractor with jack stands if a wheel or line under vehicle must be removed. Remove wheel if it improves access.
Theory: safe access and preventing vehicle movement; removing wheel gives clear access to lines and bleeding ports.

B. Document routing and mark fittings
- Photograph/mark line routing and orientation of fittings before removal. Remove clips or retainers carefully.
Theory: maintaining original routing keeps line away from heat, pinch points and moving parts; improper routing risks chafe and future failure.

C. Drain/contain fluid and relieve local pressure
- Open the reservoir cap to relieve any pressure and catch any spilled fluid under the work area. Place catch container under the fitting to be loosened.
Theory: opening reservoir prevents vacuum and allows fluid to flow when you open fittings; catching fluid avoids contamination and environmental hazard.

D. Loosen and remove the faulty line
- Using the correct flare-nut wrench, back off the fitting at the master-cylinder side and at the wheel/brake housing side (or banjo bolt if used). If banjo, remove and replace copper crush washers. Remove fasteners/clips and pull the line out.
Theory: flare-nut wrenches prevent rounding off fittings. Remove the line without twisting or bending new tubing; inspect mating surfaces and threads for damage. If the flare on the fitting or the mating surface is damaged, you must repair/replace the mating component.

E. Inspect mating components
- Inspect master-cylinder outlet, caliper/wheel cylinder bores, banjo bolt faces, fittings and seats for corrosion or metal fragments. Clean with brake cleaner; replace damaged washers/seals as needed.
Theory: a new line will not seal on a damaged seat; contamination left in the system can cause leaks and accelerate wear.

F. Fit new line
- Install new line in the exact original routing, secure all clips, use new crush washers on banjo bolts, and hand-start fittings. Ensure the flare type of the new line matches the fittings (single/double/bubble flare). Tighten by hand first, then to specified torque; if you do not have a spec, tighten snugly with a line wrench and use a small systematic additional turn — do not overtighten.
Theory: correct flare type and crush washers create a metal-to-metal seal; correct routing prevents mechanical failure. Over-tightening can damage flares and cause leaks.

G. Refill reservoir
- Top up the brake fluid reservoir with the correct fluid to the proper level. Keep reservoir cap off during bleeding.
Theory: bleeding requires fluid input to push air out; maintaining a reservoir level prevents air being sucked back into system.

H. Bleed the system (ordered, why and how)
- Bleeding order: start with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder and work toward the closest (farthest → nearest). Typical sequence: rear farthest, then other rear, then front farthest, then front nearest. If unsure which is farthest, pick the physically farthest port.
- Bleed method (two-person): one operator depresses pedal slowly and holds, the other cracks open the bleed nipple to let fluid/air out until fluid is solid, then close nipple, repeat until no air. Keep reservoir topped up throughout.
- Alternative: use a vacuum or pressure bleeder; attach clear tubing and watch for bubbles.
Theory: air is compressible; it collects at high points and furthest parts of the circuit. Bleeding from the farthest outlet first forces air toward the reservoir and out, ensuring progressively cleaner lines toward the master cylinder. Full removal of air restores incompressible fluid column and pedal firmness.

I. Check for leaks and re-torque
- After bleeding and before lowering tractor, inspect all fittings for leaks while a helper applies steady pedal pressure. Re-torque fittings to spec if any seepage. Tighten banjo bolts and flare nuts to specified values or to proper snug torque.
Theory: final checks under pressure confirm the new line and seals hold at operating pressure.

J. Final assembly, cleanup and test
- Reinstall wheels, lower tractor, road/field test at low speed to confirm pedal firmness and normal stopping. Re-check reservoir level and fittings after the test and after the first short use. Dispose of contaminated fluid properly.
Theory: operational test confirms restored hydraulic pressure and that no air remains; re-inspection ensures no slow leak developed under real load/temperature.

6) How this repair fixes the fault (summed up)
- Replacing a corroded/cracked line removes the leak path so system can hold pressure. Replacing crush washers or damaged flare seats restores metal-to-metal sealing. Proper routing and securing remove mechanical causes of repeated failure. Bleeding removes trapped air introduced by the leak or during replacement; since air is compressible, its removal returns direct hydraulic force transmission and restores pedal feel and stopping power.

7) Important practical cautions (short)
- Use the correct brake fluid specified by MF (different DOT ratings are not interchangeable).
- Do not allow dirt or moisture into the system.
- Never reuse crush washers; replace them.
- If master cylinder or calipers show internal seal damage or contamination, replace or rebuild them — a line replacement fixes external leaks and air ingress but cannot fix internal cylinder seal failure.
- If in doubt about torque specs or flare type, consult the official service manual for the MF50B.

End.
rteeqp73

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