- Goal and overview
- Re-seat valves = restore tight metal-to-metal contact between valve face and valve seat in the cylinder head so valves seal combustion. For a beginner you can usually clean and lap seats for light wear; badly pitted/burnt seats or worn valve guides require cutting or replacement and often a machine shop.
- Read this as a practical step-by-step checklist with tool descriptions and why/when to replace parts.

- Safety first
- Work in a well-ventilated, clean area; wear eye protection, gloves, and a dust mask when grinding or cleaning.
- Disconnect battery, drain coolant and oil as needed, and keep fire hazards away when using solvents or compressed air.
- Use proper lifting help for the cylinder head (two people or a hoist) — it’s heavy and fragile.

- Essential tools you need (detailed descriptions and how to use each)
- Metric/imperial socket set and ratchet
- Description: sockets, extensions, swivel joints, breaker bar.
- Use: remove head bolts, manifolds, rocker cover. Use correct socket size to avoid rounding heads.
- Torque wrench
- Description: calibrated wrench adjustable to specified Nm/lb‑ft.
- Use: tighten head bolts and other critical fasteners to factory torque in the correct sequence. Prevents head gasket failure and distortion.
- Combination wrenches and screwdrivers
- Description: assorted open/box end wrenches and slotted/Phillips screwdrivers.
- Use: general removal of components.
- Valve spring compressor (hand-held internal/external type)
- Description: compresses valve springs to remove keepers and valves safely; choose a type that fits TE‑20 head.
- Use: compress springs, remove keepers with magnetic pickup or small pliers, then release slowly.
- Valve lapping tool (suction-type or handle with cup)
- Description: handle with a rubber suction cup that sticks to the valve face, allowing you to spin the valve back and forth by hand.
- Use: apply lapping compound to valve seat/face and rotate valve with the tool to lap seats for a good seal.
- Valve grinding/lapping compound (coarse, medium, fine)
- Description: abrasive paste for removing slight irregularities and smoothing metal faces.
- Use: start with medium, progress to fine until seat and valve match and leak test passes. Clean thoroughly afterwards.
- Wire brushes, scrapers, and solvent
- Description: brass/steel brushes and gasket scrapers plus carb cleaner or solvent.
- Use: remove carbon, old gasket material, and loose particles from head and valves before inspection and lapping.
- Small pick set and magnetic tray
- Description: picks to remove valve keepers and seals; tray keeps small parts organized.
- Use: keep parts in order and avoid losing tiny keepers or cotters.
- Straightedge and feeler gauges
- Description: machinist straightedge to check head warpage; feeler gauges to check valve guide clearances and tappet lash.
- Use: check head for flatness (if warpage > specified limit, machine shop required); set valve clearances after assembly.
- Compression/pressure test kit or liquid test (optional for diagnosis)
- Description: compression gauge or squirt oil/engine oil into port to check leakage.
- Use: verify valves are sealing before/after work.
- Shop manual (strongly recommended)
- Description: model-specific torque specs, sequences, clearances and procedures for TE‑20.
- Use: follow torque values and valve clearance specs exactly.

- Specialty tools you may need and why (detailed)
- Valve seat cutter/lathe or hand-held seat cutting kit with pilots
- Description: single-angle or multi-angle cutters that re-machine the seat angle; requires proper pilot matching the valve guide bore.
- Why required: for pitted, burned, or heavily worn seats that cannot be cured by lapping. Cuts back metal to restore correct seat contact.
- How used: mount pilot in valve guide, rotate cutter to recut seat to correct angle/width. This is a skill — consider machine shop if you’re not confident.
- Valve seat grinding machine or powered angle grinder with seat stone (specialized)
- Description: powered tool that grinds seats concentric to valve guides.
- Why required: when precision and concentricity are needed, or multi-angle seats are desired for improved seal and flow.
- How used: typically used by shops; dangerous and easy to ruin the head without experience.
- Valve guide reamer or replacement guides and press
- Description: reamer restores correct inside diameter of worn guide; replacement guides are pressed in and reamed to spec.
- Why required: valve wobble or excessive guide clearance causes poor sealing and oil burning; reaming/replace restores correct valve-to-guide fit.

- Parts that commonly need replacement and why
- Valve stem seals
- Why: old seals leak oil into ports and are cheap to replace when head is apart.
- Valves (exhaust and intake)
- Why: burned, pitted, bent, or worn valves won’t seal; replacement is required for reliable compression/sealing.
- Valve springs
- Why: weakened or broken springs allow float or loss of seating pressure; replace in sets if suspect.
- Valve guides or guide bushes
- Why: excessive guide wear causes valve wobble and poor seat contact; may need reaming or new guides.
- Valve seat inserts (if head uses inserts) or head with damaged integral seats
- Why: if seats are cracked/burned beyond repair, insert replacement or head machining is necessary.
- Head gasket and all gaskets/seals removed during service
- Why: always replace head gasket and other gaskets when head is removed.
- Head bolts (if torque-to-yield or specified to replace)
- Why: some engines require new head bolts to ensure correct clamping; check manual for TE‑20 specifics.

- Step-by-step procedure (concise, for a beginner — use caution and seek shop help if unsure)
- Preparation and disassembly
- Drain coolant and remove components blocking the head: rocker cover, rocker arms/tappets (mark/keep in order), intake & exhaust manifolds, carburetor, fuel lines, and any wiring.
- Remove cylinder head bolts in reverse of torque sequence and lift head straight up (use two people or hoist). Place head on clean workbench.
- Remove valves: use valve spring compressor to compress springs, remove keepers, then release and remove springs, retainers, valves and seals in matched pairs/positions.
- Cleaning and initial inspection
- Clean head with solvent and brass brush; remove carbon from ports and valve faces.
- Inspect valves and seats visually under good light and with a magnifier: look for pitting, burning, cracks, uneven contact, or heavy wear.
- Check head flatness with straightedge across surface in several orientations. If warpage exceeds manual limits, take to machine shop.
- Check valve stem side play in guide (use feeler gauge or measure). Excessive play → guide work required.
- Quick home-leve l reseating (lapping) for light wear
- Put a small amount of medium lapping compound on the valve face.
- Insert valve into its guide, press valve face to seat, attach suction lapping tool, and rotate valve back-and-forth while applying slight upward pressure for even contact. Do short sessions and clean frequently.
- Clean compound fully, then try fine compound to finish. After cleaning, check contact pattern by marking seat with dye or by applying thin layer of Prussian blue to the seat and pressing valve; you should see an even ring contact around the seat (not just edges).
- Leak-test by putting light oil on the valve face and looking for seepage or by blocking the port and applying compressed air from combustion side.
- When cutting seats is needed (advanced)
- If lapping doesn’t produce full, even contact or seats are pitted/burned, you need to cut the seat with a cutter/seat grinder. This must be done concentric to the valve guide and to the correct angle (usually 45° for a single-angle seat; multi-angle seats use additional 30°/60° cuts).
- Use a pilot that fits the valve guide diameter; make light passes until seat is smooth and contact width is correct (check with dye). If you lack confidence or a proper pilot you can ruin the head — consider a machine shop.
- Valve guide work (if needed)
- If valve wobble is large, reaming or pressing in new guides is required. This is a precision task — best done by a machine shop unless you have a reamer and knowledge of guide-to-stem clearance.
- Reassembly
- Replace valve stem seals. Refit valves, springs, and keepers using compressor. Verify keepers seated correctly before releasing spring compressor.
- Clean mating surfaces on head and block; fit new head gasket. Torque head bolts to spec and sequence from the shop manual.
- Reinstall rocker assembly, set tappet/valve clearances per manual, reassemble intake/exhaust, refill fluids.
- Run engine and re-check for leaks and proper compression/sound.
- Verification
- Compression test or leak-down test to confirm sealing.
- Observe for smoke, poor running, or oil consumption which indicate remaining problems.

- When to take the head to a machine shop (recommended conditions)
- Deep pitting, burned seats, cracked head, warped head beyond spec, or worn guides needing replacement.
- If you lack proper seat-cutting tools/pilots or lack confidence in concentric machining — better to have a shop cut and/or fit seat inserts and reface valves.
- Shops have valve seat machines that ensure concentricity and correct angles, and can pressure test heads.

- Practical beginner tips (short)
- Start by attempting lapping only if seats are only mildly worn; it’s cheap and safe.
- Keep every valve and spring paired to its original position unless replacing parts.
- Work slowly; contamination of compound or grit into oil passages will cause engine damage—clean meticulously.
- Get the TE‑20 workshop manual for torque specs, valve clearance and service limits.

- Final summary
- You can often restore sealing with valve lapping and new seals/valves if wear is light.
- For pitted/burnt seats, worn guides, or head warpage, you need seat cutting, guide work, or machine-shop services and likely replacement parts (valves, guides, seat inserts, gasket).
- Use the tools above as described; if any machining step (seat cutting, guide reaming) is required and you are a beginner, strongly consider a machine shop to avoid expensive mistakes.
rteeqp73

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