Why this repair matters (theory, in plain words)
- The throttle cable links the hand throttle lever to the carburettor/throttle arm (or to the governor linkage). When you move the lever the inner wire pulls or pushes the throttle arm to open the carburettor butterfly (or change governor setting) and raise engine RPM. If the cable is worn, seized, stretched or routed poorly you’ll get sticky throttle, not-full throttle, creeping idle, or uncontrolled revs.
- Analogy: the throttle cable is like the brake or gear cable on a bicycle. If the cable is frayed, stuck or too loose the bike won’t stop or shift properly. Same on the tractor—bad cable = poor speed control.
- The governor (on diesel or regulated petrol versions) tries to hold engine speed under load. The hand throttle sets the target. If the cable bypasses or fights the governor, or if the return spring is missing, the engine can surge or race.

Main components (what each piece is and what it does)
- Hand throttle lever/peg and dash quadrant: the lever you move to set speed; often has detents to hold specific positions.
- Cable outer sheath (casing): the stiff coated tube that holds and guides the inner wire; seats into a bracket or ferrule. It transmits compression of the inner wire path and keeps it from buckling.
- Inner wire (core): a flexible steel wire that actually transmits pull (and sometimes push). It usually terminates in a shaped end (barrel, ball or threaded nipple) to fit linkages.
- Ferrules / end fittings: metal sleeves at each end of the sheath that seat into brackets so the inner wire moves relative to a fixed mount.
- Grommets / firewall bushings: rubber pieces that protect the outer sheath or wire where it passes through sheet metal.
- Throttle link/clevis and pin: the small fork or hooked fitting on the carburettor or governor arm where the wire end connects, held with a pin or split pin/cotter.
- Return spring: pulls the throttle back toward idle when you release the lever; essential for safety.
- Adjuster (barrel adjuster or threaded rod/locknut): lets you take up cable slack so you can set idle and full travel accurately.
- Mounting bracket/clamp: secures the sheath to the dash or engine so the inner wire can move independently.

Tools & materials you’ll need
- Replacement throttle cable (correct length and end fittings for TE-20 or universal cable + correct ferrules)
- Wrenches/sockets (common sizes 7/16–9/16 in / 11–14 mm), pliers, screwdriver
- Wire cutters or cable cutters and file (if trimming cable)
- Vise-grips or small bench vise for making up cable ends (if needed)
- Penetrating oil, light oil or cable lube
- Replacement grommets/ferrules, cotter pins/split pins
- Small hammer or punch, safety gloves, eye protection
- Zip ties or clamps for routing

Preparation and safety
- Work with the engine OFF and keys out. If petrol engine, disconnect spark or ignition and consider removing battery ground. If diesel, ensure fuel shutoff and no accidental start.
- Let hot parts cool. Keep fingers clear of moving parts when testing.
- Photograph or mark existing routing before removal so you can follow the same path.

Step-by-step: inspect, remove, replace and adjust (beginner-friendly)
1) Inspect the existing cable and route
- Move the throttle lever back and forth while watching the full travel of the inner wire and carb/govenor arm. Note any stiff spots, kinks, frays or corrosion.
- Check sheath ends: are the ferrules seated? Any cracked rubber grommet where the cable passes through sheet metal?
- If the inner wire is frayed or the sheath is damaged, replace the cable.

2) Remove the old cable (if replacing)
- Mark or take a photo of routing so you replicate it.
- At the carburettor/governor end: secure the throttle arm so it won’t snap. Remove the pin or cotter that holds the cable end in the clevis. Unhook the cable end from the clevis.
- At the dash/lever end: remove the lever clip or pin that secures the cable end. Loosen the adjuster locknut and slide the ferrule out of its bracket. Pull the cable out through any grommets.
- Remove sheath ferrules and grommets; keep bracketing hardware.

3) Prepare the new cable
- Choose correct final length: route the cable the same way and cut to length if necessary. Always leave a little extra to adjust—don’t cut too short.
- File the cut end smooth to avoid frayed wires. Fit the ferrule/end sleeve to the sheath ends.
- If the cable uses a threaded nipple or barrel end, fit the correct end fitting for the clevis/lever. Many replacement cables come with multiple end fittings.

4) Route and fit the new cable
- Route the cable exactly like the old one. Avoid sharp bends, hot exhaust proximity, and places where the cable rubs on edges. Keep smooth curves, not tight 90° bends.
- Seat the sheath ferrules in their brackets and into any grommet holes. The sheath must be anchored so the inner wire movement is effective.
- Pull the inner wire through and attach the end to the throttle arm clevis. Fit pin/cotter and secure.
- Fit the dash/lever end; place the cable end in the lever and secure pin/clip.

5) Install/verify the return spring
- Ensure the throttle return spring is present and hooked correctly between the throttle arm and the chassis. Without it, the throttle may not return to idle when released.
- If spring is weak or missing, replace it.

6) Adjust cable slack and travel
- With the engine off, move the hand throttle from idle to full and watch the carb throttle arm. Full movement at the lever should correspond to full travel at the carb. There should be smooth, full-open and full-closed positions but you must not overextend the throttle arm beyond its stop.
- Use the adjuster (barrel or threaded rod) to set quiet idle at the closed throttle position: when lever is at idle, the carb throttle should rest against its idle stop. When lever is at full, the throttle plate should open fully but not hit or strain linkage.
- Lock the adjuster with the locknut.
- Ensure there is a small amount of free play (a few millimetres of inner wire movement) so the throttle is not under constant tension.

7) Test run and fine adjustment
- Reconnect anything you disconnected for safety. Start the engine and slowly operate the hand throttle. Confirm:
- Smooth movement across full range.
- Engine returns to idle when release occurs.
- No sticking at any point.
- Under load (drive or run a PTO) check governor behavior: the hand throttle should set desired speed but governor should control engine under load. If governor fights the hand throttle or engine races, governor adjustment/repair may be required — do not force the hand throttle against the governor.

Common problems, causes and fixes
- Sticking cable or intermittent movement:
- Cause: dirt/rust inside sheath, kinks, collapsed sheath, frayed inner wire binding.
- Fix: replace cable. Short-term: spray cable lubricant and work cable many times; replace sheath/grommet.
- Frayed inner wire or broken strands:
- Cause: wear, rubbing, poor fittings.
- Fix: replace cable. Do not try to splice frayed cable; it will fail.
- Too much slack (no response or delayed response):
- Cause: stretched cable or lost adjuster setting.
- Fix: take up slack at adjuster, or replace if stretched beyond adjustment range.
- Return spring missing/weak:
- Cause: broken/missing spring.
- Fix: install a proper replacement spring. Without a return spring the throttle can hang open.
- Wrong routing causing heat damage or binding:
- Cause: cable near exhaust manifold or sharp edges.
- Fix: reroute with heat shields and protective grommets; use new rubber grommets where cable passes sheet metal.
- Cable outer sheath pulled out of bracket (so cable moves whole assembly):
- Cause: missing ferrule or loose clamp.
- Fix: seat ferrules correctly and tighten bracket. Sheath must be anchored.
- Throttle works but engine surges or governor fights it:
- Cause: governor linkage disconnected, misadjusted governor, or hand throttle attached incorrectly (bypassing governor).
- Fix: check governor linkage and settings. If unsure, consult a governor specialist or service manual.

Replacement cable tips for TE-20
- Use a cable matched for length and correct end fittings — TE-20 vintage tractors used specific fittings; many modern universals with swappable ends will work.
- When cutting cable, fit the ferrule promptly and avoid frayed wire ends that can unravel.
- Use a Teflon-lined or low-friction cable if possible for smoother feel.
- Replace any worn rubber grommets and mounting brackets at the same time.

Final checks and safety reminder
- Confirm throttle returns to idle with the lever released. If not, stop and fix before operating.
- Don’t leave the engine running unattended during tests.
- After a day of use, recheck the adjuster locknut, pins, and routing for chafe.

If you follow the above, you will have a smooth, safe hand throttle on your TE-20.
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More on the TO20 hydraulic lift troubleshooting Weak lift and contaminated fluid, looking for a leak.

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- Quick check before you start
- Confirm your TE‑20 actually has a hydraulic clutch slave cylinder: look for a hydraulic line running to the side of the gearbox/clutch housing and a small cylinder with a pushrod acting on the clutch fork. If you find only mechanical linkages/cables/rods, a hydraulic slave cylinder is not fitted and these instructions don’t apply.
- If you are unsure, stop and consult the owner’s manual or photos of your tractor’s clutch housing—working on the wrong system can damage parts or be unsafe.

- Safety (do this every time)
- Park on level ground, put transmission in neutral, engage parking brake, chock both rear wheels.
- Work with engine off, key removed, and battery negative terminal disconnected if you will be under the tractor or near electrical components.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Have a drip tray ready for fluid.
- Avoid open flames; hydraulic/brake fluid is flammable and corrosive to paint.

- Tools you will need (detailed description and how to use each)
- Combination spanner set (open-end and boxed-end wrenches)
- Description: standard spanners in common sizes (metric or imperial depending on fittings). Box-end gives good grip; open end for tight spaces.
- How to use: choose the correct size so it fits snugly on the nut/bolt. Use the box end for final turns to avoid rounding. Pull, don’t jerk; position tool so load is on the long side of the spanner.
- Flare/line wrenches (preferred over regular spanners for hydraulic fittings)
- Description: wrenches that wrap around more of the nut (6‑ or 12‑point style) to avoid rounding soft hydraulic fittings.
- How to use: slip the line wrench fully over the hydraulic union; hold the line wrench steady while turning the opposing nut with another spanner if needed.
- Socket and ratchet set (with extensions)
- Description: sockets that fit bolt heads common on tractors; extensions reach recessed bolts.
- How to use: select the socket that fits cleanly, use socket for more torque and comfort; use extensions to reach tight spots.
- Torque wrench (recommended)
- Description: wrench that lets you tighten bolts to a set torque.
- How to use: set required torque, tighten smoothly to click/indication. If you don’t have exact torque specs, tighten to a firm, manufacturer-recommended value—do not over-torque.
- Why required: prevents overtightening hydraulic fittings or banjo bolts which can crush washers or strip threads.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- Description: for clamps, covers, reservoir caps, or retaining clips.
- How to use: use correct size to avoid cam‑out; leverage gently.
- Pliers (slip-joint and needle-nose)
- Description: gripping and pulling small clips, hoses, or cotter pins.
- How to use: use needle-nose for precision, slip-joint for larger grip.
- Hammer and punch (rubber mallet preferred)
- Description: light striking tools to free stuck parts; use rubber mallet to avoid damage.
- How to use: tap gently to loosen seized components; don’t strike forcefully.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster, WD‑40 specialist)
- Description: liquid that seeps into rusted threads to free stuck bolts.
- How to use: apply to fastener, let soak 10–30 minutes, then attempt removal.
- Catch pan and absorbent rags
- Description: container to collect hydraulic fluid and rags to clean spills.
- How to use: place under work area before opening hydraulic lines; clean spills promptly.
- Clear plastic tubing and a small clear bottle (for bleeding)
- Description: clear hose fits over bleed nipple; bottle holds expelled fluid so you can see air bubbles.
- How to use: place hose over bleed nipple with bottle lower than nipple so fluid flows into bottle; watch for bubbles.
- Bleeder wrench or small open‑end spanner (for bleed nipple)
- Description: correct size to open/close bleed screw without rounding.
- How to use: crack bleed screw slightly while assistant pumps pedal (or use suction/pressure bleeder).
- Vacuum/pressure brake bleeder or one-man bleeder kit (optional but helpful)
- Description: hand vacuum pump or pressure bleeder to draw fluid and air out without an assistant.
- How to use: follow kit instructions to connect to reservoir and draw out fluid while opening bleed nipple.
- Why recommended: makes bleeding easier and reduces contamination risk.
- Jack and axle stands (if access requires raising tractor)
- Description: robust farm jack and stands rated for tractor weight.
- How to use: jack at safe lifting points, support on stands; never rely on jack alone.
- Why required: some TE‑20 clutch housings are easier to access from under the tractor.
- Wire brush and emery cloth
- Description: clean corrosion/paint from fittings and mating surfaces.
- How to use: clean threads and surfaces gently before reassembly.
- Replacement parts and fluids (see parts section for detail)

- Parts you may need (what, why, beginner guidance)
- New clutch slave cylinder (OEM or aftermarket exact fit for TE‑20 if available)
- Why: seals inside wear or corrode; leaks and loss of pressure require replacement. As a beginner, replace rather than attempt to rebuild unless you have the correct kit and tools.
- Crush washers or sealing copper washers (for banjo bolts)
- Why: provide proper sealing on banjo fittings; always replace once removed.
- Replacement hydraulic line or hose (if cracked or swollen)
- Why: old rubber lines degrade; a soft or leaking hose must be replaced to restore reliable hydraulic pressure.
- Bleeder nipple (if damaged or corroded)
- Why: if bleed screw is rounded or seized, replacement is needed to bleed system properly.
- Master cylinder (possible)
- Why: if the slave is replaced but clutch pedal remains spongy or fluid level drops into master, the master may be leaking or internally failing and must be replaced.
- Hydraulic fluid (type per manual)
- Why: correct fluid is essential. Use the type specified in the TE‑20 manual. If manual is unavailable, most hydraulic clutch systems use DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid—confirm before use. Using the wrong fluid can damage seals.
- Dust boot and pushrod return spring (if worn)
- Why: keep contamination out and ensure proper pushrod action.

- Step-by-step replacement procedure (concise actions)
- Prepare: gather tools, new slave cylinder and washers, and correct fluid; place catch pan under slave cylinder and protect painted surfaces.
- Isolate/clamp line if necessary: close any hose clamps or plug the hydraulic line to prevent excessive loss of fluid; if line is metal and hard to plug, be prepared to catch fluid.
- Remove reservoir cap and note fluid level and color; do not let reservoir run dry if possible.
- Loosen hydraulic line fitting first (use line/flare wrench)
- Description: hold the slave cylinder fitting steady and use line wrench on the tube nut; gently loosen to minimize damage.
- Remove slave cylinder mounting bolts (socket or spanner) and gently pull cylinder from housing
- Description: support the cylinder as you remove the last bolt to prevent it dropping and spilling fluid.
- Remove banjo bolt or union and catch fluid; replace crush washers when reinstalling.
- Inspect clutch fork, pushrod and bore: clean dirt, check for scoring or corrosion. If bore is heavily corroded, fit new slave cylinder or seek professional machine honing.
- Fit new slave cylinder
- Description: if the new unit uses a banjo bolt and copper washers, place a new washer on each side of banjo eye and tighten finger‑tight, then torque to a reasonable snug setting (manufacturer spec if available). Use a torque wrench if you have spec; otherwise tighten firmly but do not crush threads.
- Reconnect hydraulic line and tighten with line wrench. Ensure fittings are clean and threads undamaged.
- Refill master reservoir to correct level with specified fluid.
- Bleed the system
- If you have an assistant: one person opens the bleed nipple slightly, assistant depresses clutch pedal slowly several times and holds down, you tighten the nipple, assistant releases pedal; repeat until no air bubbles appear in the clear hose and pedal feels firm.
- If you have a one-person vacuum or pressure bleeder: connect per instructions, draw fluid through bleed nipple until clear, fresh fluid flows and no air bubbles remain.
- How to use clear hose: fit hose over bleed nipple and submerge end in small bottle partially filled with fluid to prevent air returning.
- Warning: do not allow reservoir to run dry during bleeding—top up as needed.
- Check for leaks by applying firm pressure to pedal and inspecting fittings and cylinder for seepage.
- Test clutch operation: with engine off, cycle pedal and check for full travel and engagement/disengagement feel. Start engine and test under light load in safe area.
- Clean up: wipe all spilled fluid off paint immediately (it can remove paint), dispose of used fluid per local regulations.

- How to tell if part replacement is required (symptoms)
- Visible fluid leak from slave cylinder body, fittings, or bonnet: replace slave cylinder and crush washers.
- Spongy or sinking clutch pedal that doesn’t firm up after bleeding: could be internal slave cylinder leak or master cylinder failure—replace slave first, then master if problem persists.
- Clutch not disengaging despite fluid present: piston may be seized or bore corroded—replace slave cylinder.
- Excessive pedal travel and low fluid level in reservoir after repeated topping up: indicates leak in either slave or master; inspect both and replace leaking component(s).
- Severely scored or corroded cylinder bore or piston: replacement required rather than rebuild for reliability.

- Beginner tips and gotchas
- Always replace crush washers on banjo fittings; reusing them often results in leaks.
- Use line/flare wrenches on hydraulic fittings—regular spanners round off soft fittings quickly.
- If bleed nipple is seized, spray penetrating oil, tap gently with a hammer, try again—if it breaks, you may need to extract and replace the union or consult a machinist.
- Keep the reservoir cap clean; dirt in the reservoir will introduce contamination and air.
- If the new slave leaks immediately, do not run the tractor—shut down and re‑check fittings and washer orientation.
- If you don’t have a torque spec, tighten banjo bolts and fittings snugly and recheck for leaks after a short test drive—avoid over-tightening which can break fittings or deform washers.

- When to call a professional
- If you encounter seized bolts that won’t budge without heavy heat or cutting.
- If bores are badly corroded, evidence of metal debris, or if you lack a safe place to lift/support the tractor.
- If the clutch still fails after slave replacement—master cylinder or internal gearbox/clutch problems may need specialist tools.

- Final note on fluids and parts
- Use the exact slave cylinder specified for the TE‑20 or a direct-fit modern replacement. If you cannot source TE‑20 specific parts, take the old unit to a tractor parts supplier to match bore size, pushrod length, and mounting pattern.
- Always use the hydraulic/clutch fluid type specified in the tractor manual. If manual unavailable, consult a reputable Massey Ferguson parts supplier or use DOT 3/4 only if confirmed appropriate for your clutch system.

- Short checklist before you drive
- No visible leaks
- Clutch pedal feels firm and returns properly
- Fluid reservoir full and cap secure
- All bolts and fittings tight and cleaned up

End of instructions.
rteeqp73