Note: If your TE‑20 has an unsynchronised sliding‑mesh gearbox (many early/standard TE‑20 boxes do), there are no synchroniser rings to repair — the procedure below applies only if your gearbox is a synchromesh variant. Proceed only if you have confirmed synchroniser components are present.

Tools & consumables
- Basic hand tools: metric/imperial socket set, ratchets, open/box wrenches, screwdrivers.
- Torque wrench (range to suit gearbox bolts).
- Snap‑ring (circlip) pliers (internal and external).
- Bearing puller / 3‑jaw puller and hub puller.
- Hydraulic press (or arbor press) and soft‑jaw adapters.
- Brass/nylon drift and soft‑face hammer.
- Punches, drift set.
- Feeler gauges, Vernier calipers / micrometer.
- Dial indicator (for end‑float/backlash checks).
- Parts cleaner / solvent and rags.
- Gearbox assembly lube and appropriate gear oil.
- Gasket scraper, sealant (if required), new gaskets/seals.
- Bench vise with soft jaws.
- Marking pen/paint for indexing parts.
- Work light, trays for fasteners, labeled bags.
- Hydraulic jack / transmission jack or engine support (for removal/installation).
- Safety gear: gloves, safety glasses, steel‑toe boots.

Common replacement parts (have on hand)
- Synchroniser (baulk) rings.
- Synchro hub & sleeve assembly (if worn or damaged).
- Synchro springs/keys (if applicable).
- Selector forks, selector rods or bushings (if worn).
- Bearings, seals, gaskets.
- Circlips, spacer shims (endplay shims).
- Gear oil recommended by manual.

Safety precautions
- Work on level ground. Chock wheels and take the tractor out of gear.
- Disconnect battery.
- Drain gearbox oil into a suitable container before removal.
- Support tractor and gearbox with approved stands/jacks. Never rely on floor jack alone.
- Use proper lifting equipment when removing heavy parts.
- Keep hands clear of pinch points. Wear eye protection when using press/pullers and when removing circlips.
- Label and photograph assemblies before disassembly to ensure correct reassembly.

Step‑by‑step procedure

1) Preparation and diagnosis
- Confirm symptoms are syncro related: grinding when shifting into 2nd/3rd, difficulty engaging gear unless rev‑matched, gear clash only when cold, or visible wear on hub teeth.
- Remove top cover/inspection plate and shift lever boots to inspect shift forks and linkages for obvious damage.
- Drain gearbox oil. Clean area to avoid contamination during work.

2) Remove gearbox from tractor (overview)
- Remove PTO/clutch linkage and any external shift linkages. Mark connections.
- Support engine or gearbox as needed. Unbolt gearbox from bellhousing/engine block following manual sequence.
- Use a transmission jack to lower gearbox. Note orientation and location of shift rails and rods when removing.

3) Clean, mark and prepare for teardown
- Clean exterior of gearbox to reduce contamination.
- Photograph and mark gear positions, hubs, spacers and selector assembly orientation so reassembly is exact.
- Place drain pan under gearbox; remove cover plates to access internals.

4) Disassemble gearbox to access synchroniser
- Remove selector forks and rods; take note of fork orientation and shim positions.
- Remove snap rings and withdraw synchromesh hub/sleeve assembly using a puller if required. Use soft jaws in a vice or press to push out hub where necessary.
- Remove gears or sliding collars as required to reach synchroniser rings.
- Keep parts organized and in assembly order.

How the tools are used
- Snap‑ring pliers: compress/expand circlips to remove retaining rings without deforming them.
- Bearing/gear puller: attach to hub or gear flange, use even pressure to extract hubs without damaging splines.
- Press: press bearings off or onto shafts slowly; support part fully to avoid egg‑shaping.
- Soft‑face hammer / brass drift: use only for light tapping to avoid mushrooming parts.
- Calipers/micrometer: measure ring thickness, hub sleeve internal diameter, gear teeth tooth face and dog tooth thickness.
- Dial indicator: measure end float or backlash with indicator fixed to housing and contacting gear/hub.

5) Inspect and measure parts
- Synchroniser/baulk rings: inspect mating friction surface for grooving, glazing, chipped teeth. Measure thickness and compare to new spec. Replace if glazed, cracked, or below spec.
- Hub & sleeve: check internal splines and dog teeth for rounding, peening, or wear. Replace if teeth are rounded or if sleeve shifts excessively.
- Springs/keys: ensure correct tension/height; replace if weak or broken.
- Selector forks/rails: check for wear on contact faces and pivot bores. Replace or re‑bush if worn.
- Bearings and seals: rotate bearings to check for noise/roughness; replace if not smooth.
- Gear teeth/dogs: inspect for rounding. Excessively worn dogs will prevent positive engagement and will need replacement.

6) Replace parts (if required)
- Replace synchroniser rings: heat ring mildly (oven at low temp, 50–60°C) only if required to ease fit; avoid overheating which will change hardness. Install so friction taper faces toward the cone on the gear. Ensure proper orientation.
- Hub/sleeve: press new hub onto shaft to correct position; secure with snap ring/retaining plate as original.
- Replace springs/keys by seating them into the hub properly; ensure springs engage the sleeve grooves.

Common pitfalls when replacing parts
- Installing baulk ring reversed (tapered face must contact cone). Wrong orientation prevents synchronization and causes immediate failure.
- Reusing worn hub or sleeve with new rings — causes rapid wear or slip. Replace both if significant wear present.
- Overheating rings to fit: heat only slightly; excessive heat will ruin temper and reduce friction.
- Not replacing weak/damaged springs — leads to poor engagement and accelerated wear.
- Reassembling shift forks in wrong orientation or forgetting shims that control endfloat/backlash.
- Mixing up bolts or torque values — always follow manual torque sequence.

7) Reassembly (bench)
- Clean all mating faces and lubricate splines lightly with assembly lube.
- Assemble synchromesh hub, sleeve, rings, springs and circlips in the exact order; make sure rings are seated and springs engaged.
- Fit selector forks and rails; reinstall in marked orientation.
- Reinstall bearings, gears and ensure correct axial location by using original spacers/shims. Use a dial indicator to set end‑float/backlash per factory spec.
- Replace seals/gaskets. Torque all fasteners to specified values in the manual.

How to set clearances and check function
- End float: with gearbox assembled on bench or in housing, use dial indicator to check end float on mainshaft; adjust shims to bring into spec.
- Backlash: measure gear backlash using dial indicator and compare to spec. Excessive backlash suggests worn gears or incorrect spacer/shim installation.
- Shift engagement: manually operate gear lever through gate and ensure hub sleeve slides freely and synchs lock/unlock smoothly. There should be proper detent action.

8) Installation
- Reinstall gearbox onto tractor using transmission jack; align input shaft with clutch pilot bearing and bellhousing dowels. Tighten bolts to torque specs.
- Reconnect linkages, cables and clutch linkages. Refill gearbox with correct oil and level.
- Operate clutch and work through gears with tractor on stands to test shift quality before full road test.

9) Break‑in and final checks
- After initial run and warm up, recheck gearbox oil level and inspect for leaks.
- Confirm no abnormal noises, synchro engagement is smooth, and no grinding occurs. If problems persist, re‑inspect hub/sleeve and forks.

Troubleshooting tips and pitfalls to avoid
- Symptom: grinding only when cold — may be worn synchro rings; inspect for glazing.
- Symptom: gear pops out — check hub/sleeve dog engagement surfaces and fork geometry; worn dogs or fork slots are common.
- Symptom: hard to engage but smooth once engaged — likely weak spring or worn ring.
- Do not reuse circlips that have been stretched/damaged; they can fail catastrophically.
- Do not force sleeve onto hub — that will damage the splines and dogs.
- Never mix used/new parts without checking mating wear — new rings on a badly worn hub will wear out instantly.

Final notes
- Always cross‑reference part numbers and specifications with the TE‑20 service manual. Torque values, shim thicknesses, and tolerances must come from the factory manual.
- If you lack a press or specialized pullers, many tractor shops can press bearings/hubs for you — don’t improvise with a torch or hammer.
- If major gear or hub damage is found, replacement of the entire hub/sleeve assembly (or gear) is preferable to repair.

This procedure assumes mechanical competence and access to the proper manual and tools. Follow the TE‑20 workshop manual for exact torque values, shim sizes and measurements.
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