Tools & parts needed
- Replacement choke cable for Massey Ferguson TE‑20 (or universal choke/Bowden cable with correct end fitting). Confirm end type (ball, nipple, or hook) before buying.
- Basic hand tools: flat & Phillips screwdrivers, small pliers, side cutters, adjustable spanner or set of open/box wrenches (8–14 mm commonly), 7 mm / 10 mm sockets as required.
- Small punch or pick to remove cotter/split pins (if fitted).
- Cable housing end ferrules or clamp (often supplied with replacement cable).
- Grommet (rubber) for any firewall or panel pass-through.
- Cable lubricant (light penetrating oil or cable lube).
- Cable ties or P‑clips to secure routing.
- Rag, gloves, safety glasses, chocks.

Safety precautions
- Work with engine cold. Hot manifolds will damage the cable and burn you.
- Park on level ground, apply parking brake, chock wheels.
- Disconnect ignition (remove magneto ground/kill wire or battery negative) to prevent accidental starting.
- Keep hands/cloth away from moving parts when testing.
- Use eye protection when cutting or punching clips.

How the choke cable works (brief)
- It’s a Bowden cable: a steel inner wire slides inside an outer sheath. The outer is clamped at both ends so pulling the inner wire moves the carburettor choke lever (closing the choke plate) to enrich the mixture for cold starts. Proper anchoring, routing and adjustment ensure full travel without binding.

Step‑by‑step: removal, fitment and adjustment
1. Preparation
- Park, chock, isolate ignition/battery.
- Open bonnet and locate existing choke cable: follow from dash/knob to carburettor.

2. Remove old cable
- Pull the knob out to relieve tension.
- At the knob/retainer, remove any escutcheon or clip and slide the cable out.
- At the carburettor, identify how the inner wire is secured (small clevis, ball end, or hooked over a lever with a split/cotter pin). Remove the retaining clip or pin with pliers/punch and free the inner wire.
- Loosen the nut or clamp that holds the cable outer to the carb body and remove the cable assembly.

3. Check and prepare replacement
- Measure required length by laying replacement alongside the old cable from knob location to carb with gentle routing. Allow a little extra for routing and vibration.
- Confirm the end fitting matches the carb lever (ball, nipple, clevis). If the new cable comes with an interchangeable end/adapter, fit the correct one.
- Fit an outer sheath ferrule or clamp to the cable end if supplied.

4. Route the new cable
- Route the cable following the original path: avoid contact with the exhaust manifold, sharp edges, or moving steering/throttle linkages.
- Use a rubber grommet where the cable passes through sheet metal or the dash to prevent chafing.
- Secure the outer sheath with P‑clips or cable ties every 30–40 cm so it cannot rub or chafe. Keep gentle curves only — no sharp bends.

5. Attach to the carburettor
- Position the carburettor choke lever in its full closed (choke ON) position (you can manually move it and hold it with a small tool while attaching).
- Insert the cable outer ferrule into the carburettor housing and tighten the outer clamp/nut so the outer is anchored without crushing.
- Connect the inner wire end to the choke lever (replace any clevis or retaining clip). If a split pin or cotter pin is used, replace with correct size and bend to secure.

6. Attach to dash/knob and set initial length
- Fit the inner wire into the knob assembly or mounting bracket inside the dash; ensure knob pulls smoothly.
- With the cable mounted and outer secured, set the initial length so that when the knob is pulled to its full “on” position the choke lever at the carb is fully closed, and when the knob is fully pushed in the choke lever is fully open. There should be a small amount of free play (a couple of millimetres) at the knob before the lever moves.

7. Lubricate and secure
- Apply cable lubricant along the inner wire and work the knob several times to distribute the lube and free up the action.
- Re‑secure all clips, ties and any escutcheons. Trim excess cable tie tails.

8. Final adjustment and test
- Reconnect ignition/battery.
- With a cold engine, test: pull choke knob and confirm choke closes fully and opens fully when released. Start engine with choke on — engine should richen and run. Retract choke gradually as engine warms; action should be smooth.
- If the choke doesn’t fully close with knob pulled, shorten inner wire slightly (or if too tight when open, lengthen). Recheck and resecure.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Wrong end fitting or wrong length: measure the old cable and confirm end type before buying. Universal cables can be modified but check compatibility.
- Routing near exhaust or hot parts: results in early cable failure. Use alternate route or heat shielding.
- No grommet where cable passes through metal: leads to chafing and eventual failure — always fit a rubber grommet.
- Over‑tightening outer clamp: can pinch the housing and bind movement; tighten just enough to hold firmly.
- Insufficient outer anchoring at one end: causes inner wire to move without actuating the choke.
- Too much free play or too short travel: improper mixture and poor cold starting. Aim for minimal free play but ensure full travel both ways.
- Reusing damaged old inner wire: replace the whole cable if frayed or kinked — partial replacement is unreliable.

Replacement parts required (typical)
- Complete choke/Bowden cable assembly for Massey Ferguson TE‑20 (recommended) OR universal choke cable with correct end fitting and sufficient length.
- Small grommet for panel firewall feed‑through (if missing).
- Replacement ferrule/outer clamp (often included with cable).
- Small cotter/split pin or retaining clip (if original was damaged).

Quick troubleshooting
- Stiff or jerky action: remove cable, lubricate inner wire, check for kinks; replace if corroded.
- Choke won’t close fully: check inner wire length and attachment point; ensure outer is seated firmly.
- Cable melts or stiffens: re‑route away from heat and replace cable.

Done.
rteeqp73

Ferguson TE20 Tractor Zenith 24T Carb overhaul Part 1 Dissasembly and Inspection This video is part one of overhauling the Zenith 24T Carb used on a Ferguson TE20 tractor. Part one covers disassembly and ...

1948 Ferguson TE20 Doesn't want to run One of my neighbours has an old Ferguson that's giving him fits. Lets help him out and see what's going on with it.

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