Tools & consumables (minimum)
- Metric/Imperial spanners & sockets (1/4"–1" set), extensions, breaker bar
- Torque wrench (capable to at least 200 Nm / 150 ft·lb)
- Bearing/gear puller (2- or 3-jaw) and slide-hammer
- Hydraulic or arbor press (or heavy-duty bench vise + drift set)
- Snap‑ring (circlip) pliers
- Seal driver / soft-face hammer / brass drift
- Drift punches, chasing punch set, small cold chisel
- Hydraulic jack + axle stands/blocks; wheel chocks
- Drain pan, rags, brake cleaner or solvent
- High-temp grease, assembly lube, oil, RTV gasket sealant
- New oil seals, bearings, circlips, gaskets, studs/nuts, and replacement output shaft
- Wire brush, shop vacuum, torque marking paint / marker
- Safety gear: gloves, eye protection, steel‑toe boots

Safety first
- Work on level ground; chock front wheels and place rear on stands/blocks so tractor can’t roll.
- Disconnect battery and remove spark plug leads/fuel isolations if gasoline engine.
- Drain gearbox/final‑drive oil BEFORE opening housings to reduce spills.
- Support heavy components; never rely on jacks alone — use stands.
- Use eye protection when using pullers, press, or punching out bearings.

Overview of the job
You are removing the transmission output shaft from the gearbox/final drive assembly, replacing it (and typically the bearings/seals), then reassembling. Follow factory manual torque specs and clearances if available.

Step-by-step procedure
1) Preparation
- Park tractor on level ground, chock front wheels, engage parking brake. Support rear with stands so wheels can be removed.
- Remove battery negatives and isolate ignition/fuel if needed.
- Clean external dirt around gearbox and final-drive before opening.

2) Drain fluids
- Place drain pan and drain the gearbox and axle/final drive oil. Remove filler plugs so it drains quicker.

3) Remove rear wheel(s) and hub parts
- Remove rear wheel(s) on the side you’re working (both sides may be needed for access).
- Remove brake drum/hub assembly components (brake shoes, backing plate fasteners) as required to access the hub nut and end of the output shaft. Keep parts organized.

4) Remove hub/half-shaft assembly
- Remove hub retaining nut and washer(s). Note any keys or woodruff keys and their orientation.
- Use a puller or slide‑hammer to remove hub/axle from the output shaft. Be careful not to damage the brake drum or hub sealing faces.

5) Access gearbox/final drive internals
- Remove any inspection covers, differential cover or housings that locate the output shaft. Support housings as they are unbolted to prevent dropping.
- If the output shaft is retained by a circlip inside the gearbox, remove the snap ring with circlip pliers.

6) Remove bearings/seal retaining items
- Remove bearing locknut(s) or retaining plates that hold the shaft. Note washer spacing/stack order and photograph for reassembly.
- Use a gear/bearing puller to pull gears, splines or bearings off the shaft if they are fitted to it. If the shaft passes through bearings in the housing, you may need to press the shaft out of the bearings or remove the housing to get access.

7) Extract the output shaft
- With retaining rings/nuts removed and hubs/gears pulled back, carefully slide or press the output shaft out of the gearbox. Use an arbor press or a properly supported puller; apply heat to the housing only if absolutely necessary (uniformly, and avoid overheating seals or bearings you will reuse). Support gearbox casing to prevent cracking by the puller force.
- If the shaft is stuck on a bearing race, drive the race out from the opposite side with a drift and support block.

8) Inspect components and prepare replacement
- Inspect gears, splines, bearing journals for wear, pitting, scoring. Replace any damaged gears or mating parts; DO NOT reuse worn bearings or seals.
- Clean housing bores and bearing seats with solvent and shop air.

9) Replace bearings and seals
- Press new bearings onto the new shaft using a press and correct cups — press on the bearing’s outer/inner race as appropriate so force does not pass through rolling elements incorrectly.
- Install new oil seals into the housing with a seal driver; lip faces the oil. Apply light oil to seal lips before assembly.

10) Install new output shaft
- Slide the new shaft into position, ensuring correct orientation for splines and any oil passages.
- Refit circlips, retaining nuts, washer stacks and torque to factory spec. If no manual available, tighten progressively to seat bearings but do not over‑tighten; use grease fitting to check bearing preload if applicable. Mark torques for future reference.

11) Reassemble hub/half‑shaft/brake components
- Refit gears/hubs and secure with washer(s), keys and retaining nut. Torque nut to spec; if castellated nuts and cotter pins are used, fit new cotter pins and align slots correctly.
- Reassemble brake components and drum. Adjust brakes per spec.

12) Refill fluids & test
- Refill gearbox and final drive with recommended oil to correct levels.
- Reconnect battery, start engine and test operation. Check for leaks and unusual noises during slow/loaded movement. Re-check fastener torques after a short test run.

How the common tools are used (brief)
- Bearing puller: hook jaws behind bearing/gear and turn center bolt to pull off shaft; use a sleeve to press on the correct bearing race only.
- Snap‑ring pliers: compress/expand internal/external rings to remove/install; ensure correct orientation.
- Arbor press: support shaft on anvil blocks and press bearings onto shaft slowly and squarely; use sleeve to press on race that should take the load.
- Seal driver: evenly tap new seals into bore until flush; driving on outer metal case of seal only.
- Slide hammer: used when hub or pressed gear will not slide off; attach to hub puller adapter and apply steady pulls.
- Torque wrench: tighten nuts/bolts to specified torque, in sequence; use new locking hardware where required.

Parts typically replaced
- Output shaft (if damaged)
- Inner/outer bearings that support the shaft
- Oil seals where shaft exits the housing
- Circlips and any locking washers/castellated nuts & cotter pins
- Gasket(s) for housings/inspection covers
- Possibly hub splines, bearings or brake hardware if worn

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Reusing old seals/bearings: always replace bearings and seals when removing shaft — failure later is likely.
- Damaging bearing races: never press on the rolling element; always press on race or use proper driver.
- Not supporting housing: forcing the shaft while housing unsupported can crack the cast iron. Support and brace housings.
- Incorrect bearing preload or nut torque: results in premature bearing failure or shaft endplay. Refer to manual for preload or torque values.
- Mixing up washer/stack order: label parts during disassembly or photograph. Incorrect washer stack changes endplay.
- Using heat irresponsibly: avoid overheating housings or gears — heat evenly and within safe limits.
- Dirt contamination: work cleanly. Dirt in bearings or gear teeth causes accelerated wear.
- Not checking mating parts: worn gears or splines mating to the shaft will quickly ruin a new shaft — inspect both sides.

Final notes
- Always follow the factory manual for torque specs, bearing preload, and endplay measurements. If you do not have a manual, obtain one specific to the Massey Ferguson TE‑20 before proceeding.
- If any gear teeth, splines, or journals show pitting or scoring, replace them or the mating component rather than reuse.

Done.
rteeqp73

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Massey Ferguson - Wikipedia Massey Ferguson Limited is an American agricultural machinery manufacturer. The company was established in 1953 through the merger of farm equipment makers Massey-Harris of Canada and the Ferguson Company of the United Kingdom.It was based in Toronto, then Brantford, Ontario, Canada, until 1988.The company transferred its headquarters in 1991 to Buffalo, New York, U.S. before it was acquired ...

Massey Ferguson 35 - Wikipedia Ferguson TE20 (UK) Ferguson TO30 (USA) Succeeded by: Massey Ferguson 135: 1958 Massey Ferguson FE-35 in typical period pose. A 1964 multi-power British MF35X. A British FE35 ("Gold Belly") The Massey Ferguson 35 (MF35) is a tractor produced by Massey Ferguson. History United States. In 1953 a team led by Hermann Klemm started ...

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Ferguson TE20 - Wikipedia The Ferguson TE20 is an agricultural tractor designed by Harry Ferguson. By far his most successful design, it was manufactured from 1946 until 1956, ... The new company continued both Massey Harris and Ferguson brands until December 1957, when it became Massey Ferguson.

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