- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, and steel-toe shoes; work on a level surface; block wheels and disconnect the battery before starting.
- Use jack stands — never rely on a jack alone. Keep rags and a fire extinguisher nearby. Dispose of used oil properly.

- Basic tools you will need (each tool described and how to use it)
- Socket set with ratchet and extensions
- Description: assortment of sockets that fit bolt heads plus a 3/8" or 1/2" drive ratchet and extensions.
- How to use: pick the socket that fits snugly on the bolt, attach to the ratchet, use controlled force to loosen/tighten bolts. Extensions reach recessed fasteners.
- Why: used for almost all sump, pump cover, and bracket bolts.
- Combination wrench set (open and box end)
- Description: matched pairs of open-ended and boxed wrenches in common sizes.
- How to use: use box end for turning bolts where a socket won't fit; use open end where quick turning is needed.
- Why: access bolts in tight places where a socket won't reach.
- Torque wrench
- Description: adjustable wrench that measures applied torque (ft·lb or N·m).
- How to use: set required torque, tighten bolt until wrench clicks or indicates target; prevents over/under-tightening.
- Why: critical for final tightening of pump cover and sump bolts to avoid leaks or warped parts — always use correct torque specs from the workshop manual.
- Adjustable wrench (crescent)
- Description: one-size adjustable wrench for odd-sized nuts.
- How to use: set jaw to fit nut, keep tool square on flats to avoid rounding.
- Why: useful for odd fittings and quick adjustments.
- Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers
- Description: various lengths and widths.
- How to use: use properly sized tip for screws to avoid damage.
- Why: remove clamps, small screws and prying small components.
- Pliers (needle-nose and slip-joint)
- Description: gripping tools for wires, clips, and small parts.
- How to use: grip, pull, bend, or hold components while removing bolts or hoses.
- Why: remove clips, hold nuts, pull hoses.
- Gasket scraper / razor blade and plastic scraper
- Description: metal or plastic tools to remove old gasket material.
- How to use: scrape carefully across mating surfaces to remove old gasket without gouging metal.
- Why: clean mating faces to ensure a proper seal for the new gasket.
- Drain pan and absorbent rags
- Description: container to catch oil and rags to clean spills.
- How to use: position under drain; wipe spills promptly.
- Why: catch and contain oil, maintain a clean workspace.
- Wire brush and solvent (parts cleaner)
- Description: brush and degreaser to clean surfaces.
- How to use: apply solvent, scrub away sludge and deposits, wipe dry.
- Why: clean pump housing, gears, and mating surfaces for inspection and reassembly.
- Flashlight or inspection lamp
- Description: bright focused light.
- How to use: illuminate sump, pump, and tight spaces while inspecting and working.
- Why: improves visibility of wear, leaks, and fasteners.
- Funnel and fresh engine oil
- Description: funnel for refilling and correct grade oil per manual.
- How to use: use funnel to pour oil cleanly, avoid contamination.
- Why: required to refill and prime the engine after work.
- Drain plug socket or wrench and gasket/washer for drain plug
- Description: tool that fits the oil drain plug; new crush washer if applicable.
- How to use: remove drain plug to drain oil, replace washer on reassembly.
- Why: to drain oil and reseal plug.
- Soft mallet
- Description: rubber or dead-blow mallet.
- How to use: tap components free without marring surfaces.
- Why: gentle persuasion to free stuck parts.

- Specialty / extra tools that may be required and why
- Gear puller (small 2- or 3-jaw)
- Description: tool to pull gears, pulleys or drives off shafts.
- How to use: attach jaws to gear, tighten center bolt to pull gear straight off shaft.
- Why: if the pump drive gear or pulley is stuck on the shaft, the puller removes it without damage.
- Seal puller and driver kit
- Description: tools to remove and install oil seals cleanly.
- How to use: carefully pry out old seal with puller; use driver to seat new seal squarely to correct depth.
- Why: if the crank or pump seal leaks, you must replace it; correct seating prevents future leaks.
- Engine support or hoist (optional)
- Description: device to support engine/transmission if mounts must be loosened.
- How to use: support load while you remove mounting bolts.
- Why: only needed if the sump/pump removal requires dropping engine or removing mounts.
- Mechanical/hydraulic press or bearing puller (rare)
- Description: presses/bearing pullers to remove tight-fitting gears or bearings.
- How to use: press or pull components off shafts in a controlled manner.
- Why: only necessary if internal pump gears or drive gears are seized or press-fit.

- Typical replacement parts you may need (what and why)
- Complete oil pump assembly (preferred if severely worn or damaged)
- Why: worn gears, scored housing, or low oil pressure generally mean pump replacement is safest and fastest.
- Pump gasket or cover gasket
- Why: gasket will be damaged when removed and must be replaced to prevent leaks.
- Pickup tube/strainer or screen
- Why: clogged or damaged pickup will starve the pump — replace if bent, clogged, or corroded.
- Oil seals (crankshaft/front seal, pump shaft seal)
- Why: seals commonly leak with age; replace any leaking seals while the pump is out.
- Drive key or woodruff key
- Why: if the key shears or is damaged, the pump drive will not turn properly; always inspect and replace if damaged.
- Fasteners (bolts, washers) and crush washers
- Why: corroded or stretched fasteners should be replaced to ensure proper clamping and avoid leaks.
- Replacement bearings/gears (if available separately)
- Why: if inspection shows gear tooth wear, broken teeth, or bearings noisy, replace parts or the whole pump.

- Signs the oil pump needs repair or replacement (why you would do this job)
- Low or no oil pressure on gauge or warning light.
- Engine knocking or unusual bearing noise.
- Metal particles in oil or on magnet screens.
- Visible leaks around pump or seals, or dropped oil level with no obvious external leak.
- Excessive internal leakage when pump is disassembled (loose gear fit, scored surfaces).

- Step-by-step procedure (bulleted, beginner-focused; consult the workshop manual for exact bolt sizes and torque specs)
- Prepare: park tractor on level ground, set handbrake, chock wheels, disconnect battery negative.
- Drain oil: place drain pan under sump, remove oil drain plug, allow oil to drain fully; reinstall drain plug with new washer.
- Remove sump/oil pan (if TE-20 sump hides pump)
- Use socket/wrench to remove sump bolts; note bolt locations as lengths may vary.
- Tap sump gently with mallet if stuck; lower carefully — it may contain remaining oil.
- Clean the mating surfaces and remove the old gasket with scraper.
- Inspect pickup and screen
- Check for sludge, debris, or damage; remove and clean thoroughly or replace if damaged.
- Access the oil pump
- Locate pump housing—usually at the back/side of the crankcase or inside the sump area on the TE-20.
- Remove any brackets, linkages, or covers that obstruct access.
- Remove pump cover/plate
- Loosen and remove pump cover bolts with socket/wrench; keep bolts in order.
- Gently pry the cover off, noting internal parts' orientation.
- Inspect pump internals
- Check gears for broken teeth, scoring, or excessive wear.
- Check clearances where possible (gear backlash/sideplay) and look for scoring or metal filings.
- Inspect drive gear and key for damage.
- Decide repair vs replacement
- If gears are scored, chipped, or housing is worn, replace the pump assembly.
- If parts look good and clearances are within limits (refer to manual), you may rebuild with new gasket and seals.
- Remove pump from engine block (if replacing)
- Remove pump retaining bolts; if pump drive gear is on a shaft, you may need to remove timing cover or use a gear puller to remove the gear.
- If a pressed-in pump shaft or driven gear resists removal, use a gear puller or get help — do not pry on housing.
- Replace seals and gaskets
- Remove old seals carefully with seal puller.
- Clean surfaces, apply light engine oil to new seals, and seat them squarely with a driver.
- Install new pump gasket or use gasket sealant per manual instructions.
- Install new or rebuilt pump
- Fit pump into place, align drive key if present, and tighten retaining bolts hand-tight.
- Torque bolts to the manual specification using torque wrench.
- Refit pump cover with new gasket and torque to spec.
- Reinstall sump/oil pan
- Clean mating surface, use new gasket, and torque sump bolts in a cross pattern to manual specs.
- Refill with oil and prime pump
- Refill with correct grade and amount of oil per the TE-20 manual.
- Prime the pump if possible: crank engine briefly without starting (turning key to engage starter for a second or two) or use manual priming method described in manual — ensure oil pressure builds before full starting.
- Check for leaks around pump, seals, sump, and drain plug.
- Test run
- Start engine, observe oil pressure gauge/warning light, listen for abnormal noises.
- Recheck for leaks after a short run and re-torque bolts if allowed by manual after heat cycle.
- Final cleanup
- Dispose of used oil and used parts responsibly. Clean tools and work area.

- Beginner tips and cautions (short)
- Get the TE-20 workshop or Ford/Massey service manual first for exact locations, bolt sizes, and torque specs — this prevents costly mistakes.
- Take photos during disassembly so you can reassemble correctly.
- If the pump is seized, or gears, shafts, or housing are damaged, prefer replacing the entire pump with a correct TE-20 unit rather than attempting improvised repairs.
- If you are unsure about removing timing covers or gear train parts, get help from an experienced mechanic — incorrect reassembly of timing gears can ruin an engine.
- Watch for gasket orientation and any dowel pins — these align parts; missing them causes misalignment and leaks.

- Where to get parts
- Tractor salvage yards, specialist Massey parts suppliers, and online vintage tractor parts stores commonly stock TE-20 oil pumps, gaskets, seals, and pickup screens. Buy parts matched to TE-20 (specify model and serial if possible).

- Quick replacement checklist (what to buy before you start)
- New oil pump assembly or rebuild kit (pump gasket, internal gasket, seals)
- Pickup screen/pickup gasket if separate
- Drain plug washer
- Appropriate grade engine oil and oil filter (if applicable)
- Misc bolts/washers if originals are corroded

- Final note
- Follow the manual for torque values and clearance checks; if you lack the manual or confidence with gear removal, have a trusted mechanic perform the pump removal/installation.

No yapping.
rteeqp73

IDRIVEACLASSIC reviews: 50s Ferguson TE20 tractor In today's video we are looking at the Ferguson TE 20 Tractor, which changed the world of farming as we know it. Today's video is ...

Massey Ferguson TE20, keep or sell for parts? #tractor #masseyferguson #te20

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