Brief safety first (short): turbocharging an old TE‑20 is advanced, can destroy the engine or cause fire if done wrong. Strongly recommended: get professional help for turbo choice, fabrication, and final tune. Below are focused bullets only.

Feasibility / overview
- Confirm your TE‑20 engine type and condition before anything: many TE‑20s have low‑compression, low‑RPM two‑cylinder designs not designed for forced induction; turbocharging is possible but will require strengthening, fuel and ignition changes, and custom fabrication.
- Goal of turbocharging: force more air into the engine so you must add matching fuel and ensure oiling, cooling, and mechanical strength can handle higher pressures and temperatures.
- Expect significant fabrication (manifold, downpipe), oil plumbing, and tuning; not a simple bolt‑on for a beginner.

Required replacement parts and why (what you will likely need)
- Turbocharger unit (journal or ball bearing): takes exhaust energy to compress intake air. Choose a small, slow‑spooling turbo sized for low‑RPM torque; too large yields lag and poor spool on the TE‑20.
- Exhaust manifold (custom): attaches turbo to engine. Stock manifold won’t fit a turbo; must be fabricated to match exhaust ports and turbo flange.
- Downpipe and exhaust hardware: carries hot exhaust away; requires stainless or high‑temp piping and a proper flange.
- Oil feed line and oil return line (with fittings and banjo bolts or plumbing): turbo needs a pressurized oil feed and gravity return to sump; lines must be clean, correctly routed and slope downhill for draining.
- Oil restrictor / feed adapter (if required): prevents overfeeding; some engines need a custom adapter from pressurized oil source.
- Turbo mounting studs, gaskets, and high‑temp hardware: exhaust studs/bolts that resist heat and prevent leaks.
- Wastegate (external or internal): controls maximum boost to protect engine; important even for small turbos.
- Blow‑off valve or bypass valve (for petrol/carburetted engines): relieves compressor surge when throttle closes.
- Fuel system upgrades (carburetor rejetted or larger pump/injectors for diesel): to supply extra fuel matching added air — required to avoid lean, engine‑damaging mixtures.
- Intercooler and piping (optional but recommended): reduces intake temps to lower detonation risk and increase density.
- Upgraded head gasket and head studs/bolts: to seal increased cylinder pressures.
- Possible bottom‑end upgrades: stronger pistons, rings, rods, or crankshaft reinforcement if you plan significant boost — else you limit boost to a very conservative level.
- Oil cooler and larger oil capacity (recommended): turbo increases oil temperature and demand; extra cooling/protection recommended.
- Gauges and sensors: boost gauge, oil pressure gauge, exhaust gas temperature (EGT) or pyrometer, wideband O2 (if petrol) — needed for safe monitoring and tuning.

Tools you should have (detailed descriptions and how to use them)
- Basic ratchet and socket set (metric/imperial as required): used to remove bolts and nuts; choose correct size sockets, use breaker bar for stuck bolts, and a torque wrench to tighten to spec.
- Combination wrench set: for bolts in tight spaces where sockets won’t fit; hold one side with wrench and turn the other with a socket or ratchet.
- Torque wrench (click‑type, suitable range): ensures critical bolts (head studs, turbo manifold) are tightened to correct torque to prevent leaks or failure. Use manufacturer spec or conservative values if unknown.
- Screwdriver set (flat and Phillips): for hose clamps, small fasteners; use correct tip size to avoid stripping heads.
- Pliers and vice grips: grip, hold, or remove clamps and stubborn parts; use vice grips for rounded studs carefully to avoid damage.
- Hammer and mallet (rawhide or rubber and steel): for freeing stuck parts (steel) and gentle persuasion (rubber/mallet) without harming surfaces.
- Angle grinder with cut‑off and grinding discs: for trimming metal, cutting exhaust pipe, grinding flange surfaces flat; wear eye/ear protection and gloves, use steady two‑handed grip.
- Metal file and deburring tools: smooth cut edges and deburr holes for proper gasket sealing.
- Drill and drill bits (including step bits): to drill holes for brackets, oil fittings, or modify mounting points; use correct speed and keep drill square.
- Hole saws and metal cutting bits: for larger holes in piping or brackets.
- MIG or TIG welder (extra tool; strongly recommended) and welding mask: for fabricating and welding the turbo manifold, downpipe, and mounting brackets. Welding is required where bolting won’t work; use TIG for cleaner stainless work. If you don’t weld, you must have a competent welder fabricate parts.
- Bench vise and/or portable vice: hold parts while cutting, welding, or tapping threads.
- Tap and die set: repair or cut threads in studs, pipe fittings, or bolt holes. Use lubricant and go slowly to avoid breaking taps.
- Flare tool and pipe cutter (for oil lines): to make clean fluid line connections; ensures leak‑free oil lines to turbo.
- Brake cleaner / parts cleaner and lint‑free rags: clean mating surfaces and remove oils/metal shavings; critical before assembly.
- Gasket scraper and sealant: remove old gasket material and apply high‑temp sealants where needed.
- Threadlocker (medium strength) and anti‑seize compound: threadlocker for bolts that must not loosen; anti‑seize on exhaust studs to prevent galling.
- Boost gauge and vacuum gauges: monitor boost pressure and diagnose tuning; install before first runs.
- Oil pressure gauge and mechanical fittings: monitor oil pressure especially after installing turbo.
- Safety gear: eye protection, welding gloves, welding jacket, hearing protection, respirator (when grinding or welding), and fire extinguisher.

Extra/advanced tools you will likely need (why)
- Engine hoist or sturdy jack and stands: to remove heavy components or lift engine for access. Stabilizes the tractor during longer work.
- Dynamometer or access to professional tuning with dyno: required for safe tuning and setting fuel/ignition under load. Without it, tuning is guesswork and unsafe.
- Exhaust backpressure gauge and EGT probe: monitor safe exhaust temps and prevent overheating.
- Compression tester and leak‑down tester: assess engine health before modifying; tells if rebuild is necessary.

How to use the critical tools (short how‑tos)
- Torque wrench: set desired torque, snug bolt, then apply steady pull until it clicks; recheck later after heat cycles.
- Welder: ground clamp to clean metal, use appropriate filler rod, tack weld to align parts, then stitch welds with correct amperage and penetration. If inexperienced, hire a welder — bad welds on exhaust manifolds are dangerous.
- Drill and taps: clamp part securely, use pilot drill for accuracy, drill at slow speed with lubricant, keep tap straight, back out frequently to clear chips.
- Angle grinder: secure workpiece, cut with steady motion, don’t force the tool; wear PPE and be aware of sparks and heat.
- Flare tool / pipe fittings: cut square, deburr, clamp, and form flare per tool instructions for oil lines; pressure test for leaks.

High‑level procedure (bulleted sequence — not exhaustive shop manual)
- Inspect engine condition: perform compression and leak‑down tests, check bearings, oil pressure, head condition; do not proceed if engine is worn or weak.
- Decide turbo goals: choose very conservative boost (e.g., +3–5 psi) for longevity on a stock bottom end; select turbo sized for low‑RPM torque.
- Plan mounting and fabrication: measure exhaust port flange, design manifold and clearances for turbo, downpipe, and heat shielding.
- Fabricate or obtain manifold and flange: weld or bolt manifold to match turbo flange; use high‑temp gaskets and studs.
- Install turbo: mount turbo on manifold, ensure oil feed tapped into a safe pressurized source with an oil filter in line (or clean tapping point), route return with downhill slope into sump; fit return fitting and ensure unrestricted return path.
- Fit wastegate and plumbing: install external wastegate or rely on turbo’s internal wastegate, plumb control line, set initial limit low.
- Modify fuel system: for petrol/kerosene TE‑20 adjust carb jetting and maybe ignition timing, for diesel upgrade injection pump or injectors; ensure richer mixture under boost to avoid detonation.
- Install intercooler and piping if using one: route charge piping with adequate clamping; ensure no sharp bends and secure all clamps.
- Fit heat shielding: protect wiring, fuel lines, and hoses from turbo heat using heat wrap or shields.
- Add gauges and sensors: boost, oil pressure, EGT, and a temperature gauge before first start.
- Initial start and leak check: crank and run at idle, check oil pressure to turbo, look for oil leaks, exhaust leaks, or boost leaks.
- Low‑boost testing: run at low loads and small boost, monitor oil pressure, temps, and listen for abnormal noises.
- Tuning: tune fuel and ignition (retard timing for petrol under boost) progressively while monitoring AFR and EGT; ideally done on a dyno.

Parts likely to need replacement or upgrade and why
- Head gasket and head studs: to seal higher cylinder pressure and prevent head lift.
- Pistons, rings, connecting rods (possible): stock pistons/rods may fail under increased cylinder pressures if you exceed modest boost.
- Fuel pump/carb settings or injectors: to provide correct extra fuel; otherwise engine will run dangerously lean.
- Oil pump and lines: turbo requires reliable oil supply and clean return; stock oil pump may be adequate for small boost but upgrade if pressure is marginal.
- Exhaust valves or valve seats: higher temperatures from turbocharging can damage valves; hardened valves or better seats may be needed.
- Cooling components: radiator or fan upgrade may be required as engine workload increases.
- Clutch (if driving transmission more aggressively): increased torque may wear clutch faster; consider heavier duty friction material.

Safety and long‑term considerations
- Start very conservatively with boost; repeated high EGTs or lean mixtures will ruin engine.
- Monitor oil pressure and temperature continuously; turbo failure often releases oil into intake/exhaust and can cause fire.
- Use proper gaskets and high‑temp hardware; exhaust leaks at the manifold/turbo are dangerous and reduce turbo performance.
- Legal and insurance: check local regulations and insurance implications before modifying farm equipment.

Final short advice
- If you are a complete beginner and insist on proceeding yourself: hire a fabricator for manifold/turbo welding, have a professional tune on a dyno, and limit boost to very low levels until you confirm reliability.
- If you lack welding experience, advanced tools, or dyno/tuning access, do not attempt — the project will require parts and skills beyond basic hand tools.

No questions asked.
rteeqp73

Introducing my TURBO diesel Grey Ferguson. 57mph vintage tractor Just a little video introducing you all to my little grey fergie project. Fitting it with a diahatsu fourtrak engine and the Sherman step ...

Massey Ferguson TE20, keep or sell for parts? #tractor #masseyferguson #te20

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