- Tools and what they are/how to use them
- Socket set (metric and imperial sockets, ratchet, extensions)
- What it is: removable sockets that fit over bolt heads and a ratchet handle to turn them.
- How to use: choose the correct socket for each bolt, attach to the ratchet, pull or push the ratchet handle to loosen/tighten. Use extensions to reach recessed bolts. Use a breaker bar (below) for very tight bolts.
- Breaker bar
- What it is: a long non-ratcheting bar used to apply high torque to a socket.
- How to use: fit a socket, apply steady force to break loose rusty or over-torqued bolts. Use controlled force; avoid sudden jerks.
- Torque wrench
- What it is: a wrench that lets you tighten bolts to a specified torque setting.
- How to use: set the required torque, tighten bolts in the specified sequence until the wrench clicks (or reads the set torque). This prevents overtightening which can crush gaskets or strip threads.
- Jack and axle stands (or heavy-duty jack stands)
- What they are: a hydraulic floor jack raises the tractor; stands hold it safely at height.
- How to use: position the jack under a safe lifting point, raise slowly, place stands under solid frame points, lower onto stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- Oil drain pan (catch pan)
- What it is: a shallow container to catch drained oil.
- How to use: position under the drain plug/pan, remove drain plug, let oil fully drain into pan, then dispose oil at a recycling center.
- Gasket scraper (plastic and metal)
- What it is: hand tools to remove old gasket material.
- How to use: use plastic scraper first to avoid scratching. For stubborn remnants use a thin metal scraper at a low angle; keep surfaces flat and clean.
- Wire brush / brass brush
- What it is: brushes to remove rust, scale and leftover gasket residue.
- How to use: brush mating surfaces and bolt threads gently; avoid gouging the metal.
- Solvent / brake cleaner and lint-free rags
- What they are: cleaners to remove oil and residue.
- How to use: spray cleaner, wipe with rags until metal surfaces are dry and free of oil.
- Magnetic tray or small parts container
- What it is: tray that holds bolts and small parts.
- How to use: keep removed bolts and washers organized to avoid mix-ups.
- Drain plug gasket/crush washer (replacement)
- What it is: a thin sealing washer under the oil drain plug.
- How to use: replace whenever you remove the drain plug to ensure a leak-free seal.
- Gasket sealant / RTV silicon (if recommended)
- What it is: gasket maker for use with or instead of a pre-formed gasket.
- How to use: apply a thin continuous bead per manufacturer instructions; often used at corners or as a backup to a paper gasket. Check manual for compatibility with oil and recommended curing time.
- Gasket (oil pan gasket specific to TE-20)
- What it is: shaped gasket that seals the oil pan to the block.
- How to use: fit onto cleaned mating surface, align bolt holes, install pan and tighten bolts in a criss-cross sequence to spec.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- What they are: basic hand tools for prying clips or removing small fasteners.
- How to use: use correct size to avoid stripping heads.
- Hammer and rubber mallet
- What they are: hammers for light persuasion.
- How to use: use rubber mallet to tap pan loose gently; avoid hitting mating surfaces hard.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster)
- What it is: lubricant/penetrant to free rusty bolts.
- How to use: spray and let soak to ease removal of corroded bolts.
- Thread chaser or tap and die (optional)
- What it is: tool to clean damaged threads in the block or bolts.
- How to use: run the correct-size chaser gently through the threads to restore clean threads; only if threads are damaged.
- Small jack or transmission jack / engine support (optional)
- What it is: a support to hold the engine or pan if pan or support members carry weight.
- How to use: position under oil pan or engine oil sump flange before removing bolts if the pan supports anything; support weight before loosening bolts.
- Shop manual or torque specification sheet (recommended)
- What it is: tractor-specific instructions, diagrams, and torque values.
- How to use: consult for bolt torque sequence and values, part numbers and any model-specific notes. Always follow the manual when available.

- Replacement parts to have (and why)
- Oil pan gasket (TE-20 specific)
- Why: the old gasket is likely damaged/compressed and will leak once disturbed; replacement ensures a reliable seal.
- Which to get: OEM or a good aftermarket gasket sized for your TE-20 engine. Confirm engine serial/model with supplier to get the correct shape and bolt hole pattern.
- Drain plug crush washer/sealing washer
- Why: the washer seals the drain plug; reusing the old one risks a drip leak.
- Oil filter or filter element (if your TE-20 has a filter)
- Why: oil is drained and contamination may be present; replacing the filter while servicing is good practice and prevents premature wear.
- Which to get: the correct filter for the engine fitted to your TE-20; check parts manual.
- Oil (correct grade/quantity for your TE-20)
- Why: you will need to refill after service.
- Which to get: consult manual for oil grade and capacity.
- Pan bolts (optional replacements) and any damaged studs
- Why: rusted or stretched bolts should be replaced; damaged threads in block may require helicoil or insert repair.
- RTV gasket maker (optional if you prefer bead method)
- Why: sometimes used where a solid gasket is not available or to seal corners; only use if manual approves.

- Preparations and safety
- Park tractor on a level firm surface, engage parking brake, remove ignition key, disconnect battery negative terminal to prevent accidental starting.
- Raise tractor only where safe and support on stands. Never work under the tractor supported only by a jack.
- Wear nitrile or mechanic gloves, safety glasses, and keep rags and absorbent pads ready for spills.
- Have your shop manual and replacement parts ready before starting.

- Step-by-step procedure (beginner-friendly)
- Warm the engine briefly (a few minutes) then shut off to make oil flow easier; do not work on a very hot engine—let it cool to a warm but safe temperature.
- Place the oil drain pan under the drain plug or lowest point of the oil pan and remove the drain plug using the correct socket; allow oil to drain fully into the pan; replace plug finger-tight (or remove entirely if you will remove pan and clean both) and wipe area clean.
- Support the oil pan/engine as required: if the pan carries any weight or supports components, place a small jack or support under the pan flange or engine to hold weight before removing bolts.
- Spray penetrating oil on all pan bolts and let sit 10–15 minutes if rusty.
- Remove any components blocking access to the oil pan (exhaust brackets, crossmembers, linkage) using the appropriate sockets/screwdrivers; keep parts organized.
- Loosen pan bolts progressively in a criss-cross or alternating pattern around the pan; do not remove one side completely first. This reduces stress and helps avoid warping the pan.
- Remove pan bolts and lower the pan—if it sticks, tap the pan flange gently with a rubber mallet to break the seal. Be ready for residual oil to pour out.
- Clean the oil pan interior and drain out any remaining old oil; inspect the pan for dents, holes, or heavy corrosion. Repair or replace if damaged (see replacement note below).
- Scrape old gasket material from both mating surfaces using plastic scraper first, then a thin metal scraper carefully if needed. Clean surfaces with brake cleaner and rags until completely free of oil, old gasket, and debris.
- Inspect bolt threads in the block for damage; chase them with a thread chaser if dirty or slightly corroded. Replace studs/repair threads if badly damaged.
- Place the new gasket onto the block or pan—if gasket requires sealant per manufacturer instructions, apply a thin bead at corners or per directions; do not smear excess RTV into oil passages.
- Position the pan, align bolt holes, hand-start all bolts to ensure proper alignment.
- Tighten bolts in a criss-cross sequence gradually to bring the pan into contact evenly. Finish by torquing to the specifications in the shop manual. If you lack the manual, tighten evenly until snug—do not overtighten; use a medium torque setting and recheck for leaks after initial run. (Manual values recommended; torque wrench use is strongly advised.)
- Reinstall any removed components (exhaust brackets, crossmembers, linkages).
- Replace the drain plug crush washer if you removed the plug, torque the drain plug to spec (or snug with wrench if spec unknown), and replace the oil filter if applicable—apply a light smear of oil to the new filter gasket and hand-tighten per filter instructions.
- Refill engine with the correct type and amount of oil for your TE-20. Prime the oil system if the tractor has a manual priming procedure (consult manual).
- Reconnect the battery negative terminal.
- Start the engine and let it idle; watch for leaks around the oil pan and drain plug. After 5–10 minutes of running, shut off engine, recheck torque on pan bolts and drain plug if recommended, check oil level and top off as needed.
- Dispose of used oil, filter, and contaminated rags at an appropriate recycling center.

- When part replacement is required and why
- Replace the oil pan gasket whenever you remove the pan or if the existing gasket is visibly degraded, cracked, flattened, or leaking—paper/gasket material compresses and fails with age.
- Replace the drain plug crush washer every time the drain plug is removed to avoid weeping leaks.
- Replace oil filter during this service to prevent contaminants from circulating in new oil.
- Replace pan if:
- It is cracked, heavily dented, has holes, or corroded through. A compromised pan will leak or fail.
- Bolt flange is distorted and cannot provide a flat sealing surface.
- Replace bolts/studs if:
- Threads are rounded, corroded, or stretched. Bad bolts cannot be torqued reliably and risk sudden failure.
- Repair block threads (helicoil/insert) if stripped: necessary when bolts cannot tighten because the aluminum/iron threads are damaged. This is a mechanical repair that may require a shop if you are not comfortable.

- Common beginner tips and pitfalls (short)
- Use a torque wrench and the manual’s torque values whenever possible; hand-tightening risks leaks or broken bolts.
- Keep bolts in order—some may be different lengths.
- Don’t over-clean surfaces to the point of gouging them; aim for smooth, flat contact.
- If a bolt is seized, apply penetrating oil and allow time; do not round the head—use correct tooling and a breaker bar.
- Have replacement gasket, crush washer, oil and filter on hand before starting—interruptions mid-job complicate things.

- Final check
- After test run and cool-down re-torque if manual advises, recheck for leaks next day and after a few hours of operation.

No extra commentary.
rteeqp73

How to Replace the Rear Axle Seal and Bearing on a Ferguson TE20 Tractor In this video I go through fitting the rear axle seal and bearing on our 1948 TEA20 tractor. The parts used in this video can be ...

Vintage Thursday. Using a Ferguson tractor jack to change wheels. Changing the wheels on a 1951 Ferguson TEA 20 tractor Follow me on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/cowfarmerdan/

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Short answer up front: the original Massey Ferguson TE‑20 (late 1940s–1950s) predates factory EGR systems, so if your TE‑20 has an “EGR valve” it is almost certainly an aftermarket retrofit. Below I describe what an EGR system is, how it works, every component you’ll meet, why you might need to repair it, and a clear step‑by‑step procedure for diagnosing, removing, cleaning, testing, and reinstalling a typical vacuum‑type EGR valve (the kind most likely grafted onto older tractors). No questions.

What an EGR system does (theory, in plain English)
- Purpose: EGR = Exhaust Gas Recirculation. It introduces a controlled amount of exhaust gas back into the intake air to reduce peak combustion temperature and therefore reduce NOx (nitrogen oxides) formation. Think of it as adding a little used air into fresh air so the “flame” doesn’t burn as hot.
- How it affects running: when EGR opens at the right time under load, peak combustion temperatures fall, detonation/pinging is reduced and emissions change. If EGR is stuck open you get rough idle, lack of power, lean/sooty running or stalling. If stuck closed you can get higher combustion temps and pinging—especially under load.

Analogy: EGR is like mixing a little cold water into a hot shower to prevent the water from getting scalding. Too much cold water (EGR stuck open) makes the shower too cool (loss of power, rough idle). No cold water (EGR stuck closed) lets the water get dangerously hot (high temperatures and pinging).

Main components you’ll encounter (detailed)
- EGR valve body: metal valve housing that bolts to the intake manifold or an EGR adapter. Inside is a pintle/seat or butterfly that opens to let exhaust flow into the intake.
- Diaphragm (for vacuum EGR): a rubber membrane inside the valve that moves the valve pintle when vacuum is applied. If torn, valve won’t hold vacuum or operate properly.
- Return spring: opposes the diaphragm so valve closes when vacuum is removed.
- Valve pintle / seat (or throat): the actual sealing surface that opens or closes the passage. Carbon builds up here.
- EGR gasket: thin gasket between valve and manifold; prevents leaks.
- Vacuum hose/line: supplies vacuum to the valve from the carburetor/manifold vacuum or a vacuum regulator. Hoses can be rubber or silicone; they can crack, split or collapse internally.
- Vacuum check valve (one‑way): installed in the vacuum line to keep vacuum when engine vacuum drops; prevents backflow.
- Vacuum modulator / EGR vacuum regulator (on some systems): meters the vacuum so the EGR opens progressively with load. On older vacuum systems it can be a small canister with ports and internal restrictions.
- EGR pipe / passage and intake ports: cast or drilled passages in the manifold or an adapter plate where exhaust mixes into intake. These get carbon clogged.
- EGR cooler (diesel, heavy systems): a heat exchanger in the exhaust path before the valve (mostly on modern diesel systems; unlikely on TE‑20 retrofits).
- Electrical connectors/solenoids (if retrofit uses electric control): solenoid valves that are energized by an ECU or manual switches to control vacuum routing.

Symptoms that tell you the EGR system needs attention
- Rough or unstable idle, especially when warm.
- Stalling at idle or right after starting.
- Poor throttle response, loss of power under load.
- Excessive black smoke (if too much EGR or poor combustion), or pinging/detonation (if EGR stuck closed).
- Strong exhaust smell in intake or crankcase (indicates leaks).
- Visible carbon build up at EGR port or valve.
- Vacuum hose collapsed, cracked, or not holding vacuum.

Tools and supplies you’ll need
- Hand tools: ratchet and sockets, combination wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers.
- Torque wrench (helpful) — if you don’t have exact torque specs, snug plus 1/8–1/4 turn is typically OK for small manifold bolts; don’t over‑tighten.
- Handheld vacuum pump with gauge (for diaphragm testing).
- Carburetor/intake cleaner and a soft brass or nylon brush.
- Gasket scraper or razor blade (careful).
- Clean rags and eye/hand protection; respirator if you’ll be inhaling carbon spray.
- New gasket and replacement EGR valve or diaphragm if needed.
- Replacement vacuum hose and new one‑way check valve if bad.
- Small picks and compressed air can be useful for cleaning ports (blow out after scraping).
- Thread sealer or anti‑seize for bolts if you prefer, but avoid getting sealant into passages.

Safety
- Work on a cool engine. Hot manifolds/exhaust = burns.
- Work in a well‑ventilated area. Carb cleaner and exhaust fumes are hazardous.
- Wear gloves, eye protection, and a respirator if spraying carbon.
- Disconnect battery if you’re working near electrical connectors.

Step‑by‑step: Inspect, remove, clean, test, reinstall (vacuum EGR valve)
1. Preliminary inspection
- Visually inspect vacuum hose from carb/manifold to valve. Replace if cracked or collapsed.
- Look for vacuum check valve in line; test one‑way action by blowing through it (air only goes one way).
- Check mounting bolts and gasket area for leaks or black soot which shows exhaust leak or EGR flow.
2. Remove vacuum connection
- Pull off vacuum hose from valve. Keep a plug or cap ready to avoid debris falling into manifold.
- If there is an electrical connector (solenoid), unplug it.
3. Remove valve
- Remove the mounting bolts holding the EGR valve to the adapter/manifold. Keep bolts and any spacer/adapter.
- Carefully lift valve free. If heavy carbon holds it, work gently—don’t gouge the face.
- Note and save the gasket. If gasket is damaged, replace.
4. Inspect valve and ports
- Look at the valve seat/pintle: is it full of hard black carbon? Is the pintle stuck open or free to move?
- Test diaphragm: use handheld vacuum pump. Attach pump to vacuum nipple and apply vacuum. The valve should move and hold vacuum. If it doesn’t hold vacuum or movement is weak, diaphragm is leaking or torn -> replace valve or diaphragm assembly.
- Inspect passages in the manifold/adapter: if blocked, EGR will not flow.
5. Clean valve and passages
- If diaphragm and mechanical parts are OK, clean carbon from pintle and seat with carb cleaner and brass/nylon brush. Avoid scraping metal surfaces hard.
- Clean the port in the manifold: spray carb cleaner, use a soft brush or pick to loosen carbon, then blow out with compressed air (away from your face).
- DO NOT drop chunks of carbon into intake—cover intake passage with rag while cleaning the valve to catch debris.
- For stubborn deposits, soak the valve (non‑diaphragm parts) in solvent or use a gentle wire brush. If diaphragm is inside the valve and heavily contaminated, replacement is safer.
6. Bench test after cleaning
- Re‑test diaphragm with vacuum pump. Valve should open at moderate vacuum and hold it.
- If there is a vacuum regulator, bench test that it meters; compare vacuum to known working valve if possible.
7. Replace gasket and reinstall
- Install a new gasket. Make sure mating surfaces are clean.
- Bolt valve back on. Tighten evenly and avoid distortion. Do not over‑torque — snug is better than crushing gasket.
- Reconnect vacuum hose, check valve, and any electrical connectors.
8. Functional test on engine
- Start engine and let it warm up. Listen for rough idle. With hand vacuum pump you can apply vacuum to the valve (if accessible) to confirm it opens and affects idle/power as expected — applying vacuum on a sitting engine should raise or lower idle depending on design (on many systems applying vacuum opens EGR and roughens idle).
- Check for vacuum leaks: spray a little carb cleaner around gasket; if idle changes, you have a leak.
- Road test under load: watch for improved or worsened performance. If the valve was stuck open and you fixed it, idle and low‑load performance should improve; if stuck closed and you fixed it, detonation/pinging under load should reduce.

Testing tips and expected behavior
- Vacuum test: with a good diaphragm, vacuum will move the valve and it will hold vacuum for a long time. If it bleeds off in seconds, diaphragm is bad.
- Leak test: a hissing sound or black soot around gasket means leakage — replace gasket and retighten.
- If cleaning doesn’t help, replace the valve. Diaphragms and seat tolerances are precise; carbon can warp or seat improperly.

What can go wrong and how to spot it
- Valve stuck open: causes rough idle, stalling, poor acceleration, black smoke. Check by manually applying vacuum: if idle worsens significantly or stalls, EGR is opening as it should—if it was stuck open earlier cleaning should resolve it.
- Valve stuck closed: causes pinging/detonation under load, higher NOx. If the valve never responds to applied vacuum, diaphragm or linkage is bad or vacuum source is missing.
- Diaphragm leak: won’t hold vacuum, valve won’t actuate under load — replace.
- Clogged EGR passages: valve works but no flow — clean passages; avoid pushing debris into intake.
- Vacuum hose collapse or cracks: vacuum supply lost; replace hoses.
- Bad vacuum check valve: will allow backflow, causing valve to not hold vacuum when needed.
- Exhaust leak at gasket/port: allows exhaust into surrounding area; replace gasket and ensure proper seal.
- Electrical solenoid failure (if used): no control of vacuum—bench test solenoid for continuity and operation; replace if dead.
- Overcleaning/marring seal faces: you must keep sealing surfaces flat and smooth; deep scratches or gouges mean replacement.

When to replace instead of repair
- Diaphragm leaks, torn or rotten — replace valve or diaphragm kit.
- Heavily corroded or warped valve body or seat.
- If the valve won’t hold vacuum after cleaning and diaphragm checks.
- If replacement parts are inexpensive versus hours of cleaning and troubleshooting.

Common retrofit installation considerations for a TE‑20
- If someone installed EGR on your TE‑20, verify vacuum source. Older tractors have lower manifold vacuum characteristics; the EGR may have been set up to operate incorrectly for the engine’s vacuum curve. A vacuum regulator/modulator matched to the engine is important.
- Make sure adapter ports are clean and properly aligned; avoid allowing exhaust to leak into areas where it shouldn’t.
- Check timing and carburetor tune: some symptoms attributed to EGR are actually timing or carburetion problems. Fixing EGR when timing is wildly off won’t solve root cause.

Final checklist before finishing
- New gasket installed, bolts snug and even.
- Vacuum hose replaced if brittle; check valve installed and correct orientation.
- Diaphragm holds vacuum.
- Ports cleaned and no debris in intake.
- Engine idles smoothly and responds to applied vacuum in a predictable way.
- Road test under load and verify no pinging and that the tractor pulls normally.

Short troubleshooting quick guide
- No vacuum at valve: check vacuum source and hose. Replace hose.
- Valve doesn’t move with vacuum: test with handheld pump. If it won’t hold vacuum, replace.
- Valve moves and holds vacuum but vehicle symptoms unchanged: clean intake EGR ports or check vacuum regulator and timing/carb settings.
- Valve and ports clean but valve sticks intermittently: replace—carbon often recurs.

If your TE‑20 never had an EGR and you’re seeing one: treat it as an aftermarket addition. The basic repair steps above apply, but keep in mind that retrofits can be mis‑sized for the engine vacuum and may cause more problems than they solve. If you prefer original operation, removing the retrofit and sealing the intake/exhaust properly is also a valid choice.

That’s the complete beginner mechanic guide: what each part is, how it works, why it’s important, what goes wrong, and a step‑by‑step procedure to diagnose, clean, test, and reinstall a vacuum EGR valve.
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