Summary: On a Massey Ferguson TE‑20 you align the front end by removing play (kingpins, bearings, tie‑rod ends), centering the steering, then setting toe with the tie‑rod turnbuckle/sleeve. Caster/camber are essentially fixed by the axle/kingpin geometry — if they are off you must replace worn kingpin/axle components. Below are tools, safety, parts, and a step‑by‑step procedure with how each tool is used and common pitfalls.

Tools & consumables
- Floor jack and quality axle stands (rated for the load)
- Wheel chocks
- Tire pressure gauge (set both front tyres to correct pressure)
- Tape measure (at least 2 m / 6 ft) or long caliper, or digital caliper for accuracy
- Straightedge or string/line and two blocks (string alignment method)
- Plumb bob or simple vertical reference (small level can help)
- Wrenches/sockets set (including long wrench for turnbuckle/tie‑rod jam nuts)
- Pipe or tie‑rod spanner for the turnbuckle (if original has left/right threads)
- Torque wrench
- Hammer, punch, drift (for kingpin work if needed)
- Grease gun
- Wire brush and rags
- Replacement parts as required (see list below)

Safety precautions
- Work on a level, solid surface.
- Chock the rear wheels before jacking the front.
- Use the jack only to lift. Always support the tractor on stands under the front axle/housing — never under the steering linkage or hubs.
- Put transmission in park/neutral lock and remove ignition key; block wheels and bench brake if applicable.
- Wear eye protection and gloves.
- If removing kingpins or wheel bearings, take care: springs/backlash can move components suddenly.
- After any work, double‑check fastener torque and test drive slowly in a safe area.

Common replacement parts you may need
- Tie‑rod ends/turnbuckle or adjustable sleeve (common wear item)
- Jam nuts for tie‑rod/turnbuckle
- Drag link end or pitman arm if worn
- Kingpin bushings and kingpins (if excessive play)
- Wheel bearings and seals
- Steering box packing or overhaul kit (if excessive play from box)
- Front wheel hub studs/nuts if damaged

Pre‑checks (do these before attempting alignment)
1. Inflate front tyres to correct, equal pressure. Uneven pressure destroys alignment.
2. Check tyre condition. Worn or distorted tyres give false readings — replace if out of round.
3. Check wheel bearings and hub play. If bearing play exists, correct or replace bearings and preload before alignment.
4. Inspect steering box, pitman arm, drag link and tie rods for excessive play. Replace worn parts. Alignment is futile if there is free play.
5. Clean and grease linkages where appropriate.

How the tie‑rod/turnbuckle works (how the tool is used)
- The TE‑20 front wheels are steered by left/right tie rods connected by a central adjustable turnbuckle or an adjustable sleeve. Turning that sleeve/turnbuckle changes the effective length between steering arms, which rotates the wheels inward/outward to set toe.
- One end often has left‑hand thread/one right‑hand thread so the sleeve length changes as it’s turned. Use a pipe or tie‑rod spanner on the sleeve and hold jam nuts while turning to maintain adjustment. After adjustment, lock jam nuts snugly.

Alignment target values (typical)
- Aim for a small total toe‑in. Common practical target: 1/8" to 3/16" total toe‑in (front edges of both rims closer together than rear edges). If you prefer per‑wheel reading, that is roughly 1/16" to 3/32" toe‑in per wheel. Check factory manual if available.
- Camber and caster are not normally adjustable on the TE‑20; if they are noticeably off, expect worn kingpins/axle issues.

Step‑by‑step alignment
1. Prepare and center steering
- Set tractor on level ground, chock rear wheels, jack and support front axle on stands with wheels clear of ground (or allow wheels to sit on ground if you can get accurate measurements; both methods used—stand method removes tyre squirm).
- Ensure steering wheel is centered and steering column locked (center pitman arm: count turns from stop to stop and set mid‑point).
- Grease all fittings.

2. Straighten wheels and set a reference
- If wheels are off center, physically rotate wheels to point straight ahead while steering is centered.
- Put marks at top of each wheel/rim for reference.
- Use plumb bob or straightedge to make a vertical reference from the air gap of rim if needed.

3. Measure toe with string or tape method
Option A — Tape measure:
- Measure distance between a reference point on the outside of left and right rims at the front (same height). Note value.
- Measure the distance at the rear of the rims (same height). Note value.
- Toe = rear distance minus front distance. If rear > front that is toe‑in. If front > rear that is toe‑out.
Option B — String or straightedge:
- Wrap a taut string around both rims at a consistent height fore and aft and measure offset difference in front vs rear.
- Record current toe.

4. Adjust the tie‑rod (turnbuckle/sleeve)
- Loosen the jam nuts on the turnbuckle/sleeve but leave the tie‑rod ends engaged.
- To increase wheel toe‑in (front edges closer), shorten the tie‑rod assembly (turn the sleeve to shorten the effective length). To toe‑out, lengthen it.
- Make small equal adjustments: turn the sleeve one revolution then re‑check measurement. Note: one full turn can produce noticeable change; go slowly.
- Use the tape/string method each time until you reach the target toe (e.g., 1/8"–3/16" total).
- Keep steering centered while making adjustments. Do not rotate the steering wheel to check — always recenter.

5. Check symmetry and steering centering
- After toe is set, check that steering wheel remains centered. If steering wheel is off but toe is correct, you can correct steering wheel centering by slightly adjusting drag link or repositioning pitman arm if available — but do that only after toe is correct.
- Re‑check both front and rear measurements to ensure both wheels are equal and within target.

6. Lock everything and torque
- Tighten jam nuts securely and torque to a firm tightness (use thread locker if appropriate). If a torque spec is not known, tighten to a snug automotive standard and ensure the turnbuckle cannot move under moderate hand force; don’t crush the threads.
- Re‑check toe after jam nut tightening — some sleeves shift when jam nuts are done. Readjust if necessary and re‑tighten.

7. Final checks and test drive
- Lower tractor (if on stands) to the ground.
- Bounce front and cycle steering to ensure no binding.
- Grease fittings and recheck all fasteners.
- Road test slowly: drive in a safe area, check steering feel and tracking straight. Re‑measure toe after a short test drive and re‑torque jam nuts.

If you find excessive adjustment needed or if toe won’t hold:
- Inspect tie‑rod ends, ball joints, kingpin bushings, wheel bearings, and steering box for wear. Replace worn parts.
- If kingpin bushings worn, you may need kingpin replacement or axle work—this is a heavier job needing press/drifts and often new bushings/shims. Alignment cannot be stable with worn kingpins.
- Bent tie rods or pitman arm must be replaced.

Common pitfalls (avoid these)
- Not centering the steering before adjusting: results in off‑center steering wheel or incorrect adjustment.
- Working on uneven ground — measurements will be false.
- Making large adjustments at once — change small amounts and re‑measure.
- Forgetting to tighten jam nuts or failing to re‑check toe after tightening.
- Ignoring tyre pressure or tyre condition.
- Trying to align when steering box or kingpin wear is present — replace wear items first.
- Over‑torquing jam nuts and damaging the turnbuckle threads.

Notes on replacement work
- Replace tie‑rod ends or adjustable sleeve if threads are stripped or components are loose. Use new jam nuts.
- If wheel bearings are noisy, replace both sides and set correct bearing preload.
- Kingpin bushing replacement: shop job unless you have presses and service tools. If kingpin/axle worn, alignment won’t hold.
- Steering box overhaul may be necessary for excessive play; aftermarket kits are common.

That is the practical TE‑20 alignment workflow. Follow safe lifting practices, eliminate wear/play first, use the turnbuckle to set a small toe‑in, lock jam nuts, and verify with a road test.
rteeqp73

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