ENGINES COVERED: Petrol engine, 80mm bore (TE-A20) Petrol engine, 85mm bore (TE-A20) Vaporising oil engine, 85mm bore (TE-D20) Lamp oil engine 85mm bore (TE-H20) Diesel engine (TE-F20)
Specifications - Engine - Cooling System - Fuel System - Governor - Electrical - Lighting - Clutch - Transmission - Axle - Hydraulics - Power Take Off - Steering - Brakes - Wheels and Tires - Body - Narrow and Industrial Variants - Special Tools - and much more.
Available separately TE-20 Feguson parts manual click here
About the Massey Ferguson TE20
The model name came from Tractor, England 20 horsepower . The TE range of Ferguson tractors was introduced in England in 1946,following 30 years of continuous development of 'The Ferguson System' from 1916. The first work was to design a plough and linkage to integrate the tractor with its work in a manner that was an engineering whole. The automatic control system is now employed by almost all tractor manufacturers worldwide. A British patent was applied for by Harry Ferguson in 1925 and granted the following year. By the early 1930s the linkage design was finalised and is now adopted as international standard category I. Just one prototype Ferguson System tractor, known as the Ferguson Black, was built to further technical development and for demonstrating to potential manufacturers. During 1936 the first production Ferguson tractors were built in Huddersfield, Yorkshire, by the David Brown Company.
- Safety first (must do before any work)
- Wear safety glasses, nitrile or mechanic’s gloves, and closed-toe shoes.
- Park tractor on a firm, level surface, set the parking brake, remove the ignition key, and disconnect battery negative to prevent accidental start.
- Use wheel chocks and, if lifting, proper jack stands rated for the load (never rely on a jack alone).
- Keep a fire extinguisher and absorbent pads/rags handy for spilled fluid.
- Quick overview of possible leak sources on a Massey Ferguson TE-20 transmission (why diagnosis matters)
- Filler/dipstick plug or its sealing washer (easy fix).
- Drain plug and its crush washer (easy fix).
- Housing gasket seams or split-case bolts (moderate).
- Output/PTO shaft oil seal(s) around the driveshaft or PTO flange (common; may require disassembly).
- Speedometer/sensor shaft or PTO/aux shafts (small seals).
- Breather/vent blockage causing weeping at seams (simple to check/clean).
- Replacing the correct part depends on where the leak originates — diagnosing first avoids unnecessary parts and effort.
- Tools you’ll likely need (basic tools first — every tool described and how to use it)
- Socket set (metric/imperial mix): ratchet handle, 1/4", 3/8", or 1/2" drives, assortment of sockets.
- Use to remove bolts, drain/filler plugs and small covers. Fit socket snugly on fastener, pull ratchet handle to break bolt free, turn counterclockwise to loosen.
- Combination wrench set (open and boxed ends): shallow and deep wrenches.
- Use where sockets can’t reach. Place boxed end fully on the nut/bolt head and pull carefully to avoid rounding.
- Screwdriver set (flat and Phillips, various sizes): for prying, removing screws, and prying gaskets gently.
- Use appropriate head size; don’t apply excessive torque with flat screwdrivers to avoid slipping.
- Drain pan (large, shallow oil pan) and oil catch container.
- Place under drain plug or suspected leak area to capture fluid; dispose of oil per regulations.
- Clean rags, shop towels, and a parts-cleaning brush or toothbrush.
- Clean areas to see leak paths and remove grime that hides the origin.
- Degreaser (parts cleaner spray) and a stiff nylon brush.
- Spray grime, let soak, brush and wipe clean to reveal leak source.
- Flashlight or inspection lamp: bright handheld or headlamp.
- Use to inspect underside and seam areas; shadowing helps spot drips.
- Torque wrench (recommended): click-type for correct bolt torque when reassembling.
- Tighten bolts to specified torque to avoid overtightening or under-sealing; set wrench to spec and tighten until it clicks.
- Wire brush and gasket scraper (plastic or metal): remove old gasket material.
- Scrape gently at shallow angle; avoid gouging mating surfaces.
- Brass/soft-face hammer and punch or drift: to tap seals or drive out old plug washers if stuck.
- Use light taps; brass avoids sparking and is softer than steel so less likely to damage parts.
- Seal puller or flat screwdriver (for oil seals): for prying out old seals.
- Hook behind the lip of the old seal and lever it out evenly; take care not to nick the bore.
- Seal driver set or appropriately sized socket and wooden block: for installing new oil seals squarely.
- Place seal on shaft bore and drive evenly until flush; driving by hand with a socket keeps seal square.
- Jack and jack stands or ramps (if you need to get under the tractor): rated for tractor weight.
- Use a heavy duty floor jack under a safe jacking point, then support with jack stands. Never crawl under an unsupported jack.
- Replacement crush washers, O-rings, or copper washers (for drain/filler plugs): small, inexpensive sealing parts.
- Replace whenever drain/filler plugs are removed; they compress to form a seal.
- RTV gasket maker or a paper/gasket material and gasket sealant (if a cover gasket is needed).
- Use only where specified and allow proper cure time per product instructions.
- Extra/specialized tools (why they may be required)
- Seal driver kit (recommended if replacing shaft seals)
- Why required: installs seals squarely without distortion; avoids leaks caused by damaged seals.
- Bearing puller or PTO flange puller (if output flange must be removed)
- Why required: the PTO flange or bearing may be tight on the shaft and will need a puller to remove without damaging parts.
- Torque angle gauge (if the case uses torque-plus-angle specs)
- Why required: ensures accurate reassembly to factory specs if angle torques are used.
- Service manual (Massey Ferguson TE-20 workshop manual)
- Why required: provides torque specs, seal part numbers, sectional drawings, and correct disassembly order. Strongly recommended even for beginners.
- Diagnosis procedure (how to find exactly where fluid is coming from)
- Clean the transmission area with degreaser and brush until dry so you can see new fluid.
- Wipe suspicious seams, plugs and shaft seals dry, then place absorbent cardboard or white rags under the tractor to catch fresh drips.
- Run the tractor briefly at idle (observe from a safe distance), or move it a few feet and re-check to spot where fresh fluid appears.
- Inspect the filler/dipstick hole and drain plug for seepage — common simple fixes.
- Inspect output/PTO flange area and rotating shafts — check flange bolts and the outer oil seal lip for wetness.
- Check breather/vent — if clogged, pressure can force fluid out of weak seams.
- Mark the leak origin area with chalk or tape once found to guide repair.
- Simple fixes you can do as a beginner (parts/tools typically required)
- Replace crushed drain plug washer or filler plug washer
- Tools: socket or wrench to remove plug, drain pan, new crush washer, rags.
- How: remove plug, let a little fluid out into pan, clean plug seat, install new washer, torque to snug (not over-tight). Refill to correct level.
- Why: old washers compress and leak; inexpensive and quick.
- Tighten loose fasteners on cover plates or PTO flange
- Tools: socket/wrench, torque wrench ideally.
- How: tighten to specified torque; if bolt threads are damaged, replace bolt and use correct torque.
- Why: vibration can loosen bolts and create leaks at gaskets or flange faces.
- Clean/clear breather cap
- Tools: pliers, rag, small wire or compressed air (use caution).
- How: remove or clear cap so internal pressure can vent; clogged vent can push oil out.
- Why: solves weeping at seams due to pressure build-up.
- Replace an accessible external oil seal (if shallow and flange is removable without major disassembly)
- Tools: socket set to remove flange, seal puller, seal driver/socket, hammer, new seal, degreaser, rags.
- How: remove flange bolts, gently pry flange free, extract old seal, clean bore, install new seal squarely, reassemble and torque bolts.
- Why: old seals harden, tear or shrink and leak; replacing the seal often fixes leaks at rotating shafts.
- More advanced repairs (may exceed skills/basic tools; consider professional help)
- Replacing internal transmission seals or split-case gaskets
- What it involves: partial or full gearbox disassembly, removing shafts, bearings and seals; cleaning and re-gasking mating surfaces.
- Tools needed: seal/bearing pullers, press or improvised drift setup, service manual, torque wrench, possibly a shop press for bearings.
- Why this is harder: alignment, bearing preloads and correct reassembly are critical; improper reassembly can cause major damage.
- Replacing output shaft or bearings
- Why: if seals fail due to worn shafts or bearings, these parts must be replaced — a major job requiring specialized pullers, bearing drivers, and potentially a press.
- How to replace a typical output shaft/PTO seal (concise step bullets for beginner-safe level)
- Clean area and drain enough fluid to keep spill contained.
- Support tractor securely and remove any covers or shields blocking access.
- Remove PTO/output flange bolts (keep parts organized).
- Gently pull flange free; if stuck, use a flange puller to avoid hammering on the shaft.
- Use a seal puller or small screwdriver to pry out the old seal evenly.
- Clean the bore and coat new seal lip with a little clean transmission oil.
- Use a seal driver (or appropriately sized socket and wooden block) to tap the new seal in evenly until flush.
- Reinstall flange with new gasket/RTV or as per manual, torque bolts to spec.
- Refill fluid to correct level, run machine and check for leaks.
- What replacement parts you may need and why
- Oil seals (shaft seals) — primary part for shaft leaks; match inner diameter (shaft size) and outer diameter (bore) and seal thickness.
- Gaskets for cover plates or PTO flanges — replace if torn or compressed.
- Crush/copper washers or O-rings for drain/filler plugs — always replace after removal.
- Flange bolts (if stretched or damaged) — bolts that thread badly should be replaced to ensure clamp load.
- Breather cap (if clogged/damaged) — inexpensive fix to prevent pressure-related leaks.
- If seals fail repeatedly, inspect shafts for wear — may need shaft seal seating or shaft replacement.
- Fluid handling and refill
- Use the correct grade/type of transmission oil recommended for TE-20 (refer to workshop manual or tractor label).
- Refill slowly through the filler/dipstick hole to the correct level; overfilling can cause leaks or aeration.
- Properly dispose of used oil at a recycling center.
- Testing and follow-up
- After repair, clean the area again, refill, and run the tractor while monitoring the repair site for at least 30–60 minutes.
- Re-check torque on bolts after a short running period (heat cycles can change torque).
- Check fluid level again after a few hours of operation and after the machine has cooled.
- Final notes (important practical tips)
- If the leak source is a simple plug washer or loose bolt, do that first — cheapest and safest.
- If replacing seals requires removing major components (rear axle, PTO cluster) and you lack pullers/press or confidence, get a mechanic or a friend with experience — incorrect reassembly can cause catastrophic gearbox failure.
- Keep a parts list and take photos as you disassemble to help with correct reassembly.
- A Massey Ferguson TE-20 workshop manual is strongly recommended for torque values, service procedures and part numbers.
- Disposal and cleanup
- Collect spilled fluid and used rags/filters in sealed containers; many municipalities require proper disposal at recycling/household hazardous waste centers.
- Clean tools with appropriate solvent and store safely.
End — this gives the diagnosis steps, each likely repair, every tool explained and how it’s used, which extra tools are necessary and why, plus what parts you might need and why. rteeqp73
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