Goal: show you, step‑by‑step, how to inspect and replace valve springs on a Massey‑Ferguson TE‑20, explain every component you’ll touch, why the repair may be needed, how the system works, and what can go wrong. This is written for a beginner mechanic — clear, practical, and without fluff. Do NOT start work until you’ve read the whole procedure.

Important: get the TE‑20 service/manual for the exact valve clearance and torque specs. I do not give model torque/clearance numbers here because mistakes cost valves or pistons.

Parts and components — what each is and what it does
- Cylinder head: the top part of the engine block that contains valves and seats. Think of it as the “roof” of each combustion chamber.
- Valve (intake or exhaust): a mushroom‑shaped metal part. The flat “head” seals against the valve seat to close the combustion chamber; the long “stem” slides through the valve guide. Intake brings fuel/air in; exhaust lets gases out.
- Valve seat: the machined ring in the head the valve face seals against. If this is poor, compression is lost.
- Valve guide: a cylindrical bore the valve stem slides in. Keeps the valve aligned.
- Valve stem seal: a small rubber/metal seal on the top of the guide to stop oil from running down the stem into the combustion chamber.
- Valve spring: sits around the valve stem; pushes the valve closed. Its job is to follow the cam and keep the valve in contact with the rocker/tappet.
- Spring seat (or washer): thin cup/washer under the spring at the head to give a stable base.
- Spring retainer: sits on top of the spring; keeper slots hold the tiny keepers.
- Keepers/collets/locks: two small tapered halves that lock into the valve stem groove and secure the retainer to the stem. Tiny but crucial—if they fail the valve can fall into the cylinder.
- Rocker arm: lever that transfers cam/pushrod motion to open the valve.
- Pushrod: rod transferring motion from lifter/tappet to the rocker arm (in OHV engines).
- Lifter/tappet: rests on the cam lobe and pushes the pushrod up and down.
- Camshaft and cam lobes: located in the block or head; lobes push lifters to open valves in timed sequence.
- Valve cover (rocker cover) and gasket: lid that protects the rocker area and seals oil.
- Head gasket: seals head to block (don’t disturb unless required).
- Timing gear/chain/belt: times cam to crank (if you disturb timing, re‑timing is critical).

Theory — why valves and springs matter and why springs may need replacement
- The cam profile opens a valve. When the lobe rotates off, the valve spring closes the valve and keeps it tightly seated.
- Valve springs must be strong enough to: (a) close the valve quickly when required, (b) keep the valve in contact with the rocker/tappet so the cam makes smooth contact without “floating” at speed.
- If springs are weak, the valve can “float” (not follow cam), causing loss of compression, misfire, overheating, and the cam or lifters to get hammered and wear. At worst, a valve can hit a piston if timing/float lets it stay open during the wrong stroke — catastrophic.
- Springs can fatigue over time (like a trampoline that loses bounce), crack, or break. Keepers can wear. Valve guides/seals can also cause symptoms you may think are spring related (oil burning, smoking, slack).

What can go wrong if you do nothing or do it wrong
- Weak/broken spring: valve float, loss of power, rough running, possible bent valves.
- Lost/dropped keepers: valve and retainer fall into combustion chamber → bent valve/piston damage.
- Wrong reassembly (rockers/pushrods swapped): premature wear, noisy valvetrain, incorrect clearance.
- Incorrect valve clearance: noisy operation, valve burning (too tight), poor performance (too loose).
- Damaged valve seat/guide: poor sealing, compression loss.
- Not re‑testing: oil leaks, poor running, safety hazard.

Tools and materials you’ll need
- Service manual (essential).
- Valve spring compressor suitable for the TE‑20 (in‑situ top‑type or external depending on head). If changing springs with head on, you need a compressor that clamps the retainer and compresses the spring.
- Magnet/pick or small hooked pick for keepers.
- Feeler gauge set for valve clearances.
- Socket set, ratchet, spanners.
- Torque wrench for rocker assembly/cover nuts.
- Screwdrivers, pliers, soft‑faced hammer.
- Clean rags, solvent/degreaser.
- Clean engine oil for lubrication.
- Container for small parts (label parts if you remove many).
- Replacement parts: new springs (matched set), new keepers if damaged, valve stem seals (recommended), possibly new retainers; if valves/guides are worn you may need service parts or machine work.
- Safety: eye protection, gloves.

Basic safety and prep
- Work on a cool engine. Hot metal and hot oil are dangerous.
- Disconnect battery and remove ignition components (or disable spark) so engine won’t crank accidentally.
- Remove spark plugs — easier to turn engine by hand, and removes compression when rotating.
- Have a clean, organized workspace and a parts tray.

Overview of the procedure (high level)
1. Remove valve cover/rocker cover and free up access.
2. Turn engine to place the cylinder(s) you’re working on at top dead center (TDC) compression so valve(s) are closed. You can replace springs one cylinder at a time that way, or use a valve spring compressor to do all valves with the head still on.
3. Compress the spring, remove keepers, remove retainer and spring.
4. Inspect parts; replace springs/seals/retainers as needed.
5. Reinstall springs and keepers, set valve lash/clearance to spec.
6. Reassemble and test.

Step-by-step: changing valve springs on a TE‑20 (head in place method)
Note: if the head is removed, springs sit in the head and a bench compressor or press is used; the steps are similar but head is disassembled. Below shows how to do it with the head on the engine, the common approach.

1) Remove rocker cover and clean area
- Remove the rocker/valve cover bolts and lift off the cover. Keep gasket or replace if brittle.
- Clean oil and grime so dirt doesn’t fall into the head when you open anything. Use rags and degreaser.

2) Label and/or mark
- If you remove rockers/pushrods, mark them so each returns to the same location. The TE‑20 rockers and pushrods are matched by wear. A simple paint mark or numbering on cards works.

3) Rotate engine to TDC compression for a cylinder
- Use a socket on the crankshaft pulley or turning the flywheel. With spark plug removed you can turn by hand.
- TDC compression = both intake and exhaust valves closed; piston at top of compression stroke. The valves will be held closed by the piston and spring pressure, making it safer to remove the spring for that cylinder.

4) Remove rocker arm or move it out of the way
- Loosen the rocker adjuster nut and move the rocker off the valve tip so you have full access to the retainer. Be careful not to lose the adjuster or pushrod.
- If the TE‑20 has pushrod shims/cups, note their orientation.

5) Fit the valve spring compressor
- Use the compressor to grab the retainer and the spring seat, compress straight down. Take care to align cleanly — crooked compression can damage the spring or retainer.
- If you don’t have a compressor designed for this head, do not improvise unsafe tools. A proper compressor is inexpensive and necessary.

6) Compress and remove the keepers (collets)
- Compress the spring just enough to relieve retainer tension. The small keepers sit in the groove on the stem — they’re tapered halves.
- Use a magnet or pick to lift them out carefully. They’ll pop free when compressed.
- If they’re stuck, stop and inspect; forcing can damage parts.

7) Slowly release the compressor and remove retainer and spring
- Keepers out, ease compressor down. Remove retainer and spring, then the spring seat and valve stem seal if you’re replacing it.
- Clean everything. Check the valve stem end and the groove where keepers sit for wear/damage.

8) Inspect components
- Springs: look for cracks, deformation, coils touching, uneven height, pitting. Replace springs in matched sets only.
- Retainers and keepers: check for wear. Replace if grooved or distorted.
- Valve stem: inspect for scoring; wiggle in the guide for play — excessive side play indicates worn guide.
- Valve stem seal: replace if old/hard/oily leaking.
- Valve seat/face: check for pitting or burning.

9) Install new seals (if used) and re‑assemble spring parts
- Lubricate valve stem lightly with oil.
- Fit new valve stem seal over the guide (ensure correct orientation).
- Place lower spring seat, spring, retainer on the stem.

10) Compress and install keepers
- Compress the spring with the compressor.
- Insert keepers into the retainer groove (they should seat by hand; magnet helps).
- Release compressor slowly until retainer seats and keepers engage the stem groove. Check visually that keepers are seated evenly.

11) Refit rocker/pushrod and set initial clearance
- Reinstall the rocker arm and secure lightly.
- Adjust valve clearance (lash) to the cold specification from the manual. Use a feeler gauge and the adjuster nut.
- Typical method: rotate engine so the cam lobe is pointing away (valve closed), adjust until the feeler has slight drag, then lock nut down.

12) Repeat for all valves
- Do each cylinder one at a time, or use the compressor to do them all. Always rotate to proper TDC/compression for individual valve removal if you depend on piston to hold the valve closed.

13) Rebuild, check torque, and test
- Replace valve cover gasket if needed, reinstall cover and torque bolts to spec.
- Reconnect ignition and any disconnected parts.
- Start engine and listen. Valve train should be quiet, no clatter or tick beyond normal. Check for oil leaks.
- After warm up, re‑check and retighten valve lash if required by manual (some engines require slight re‑adjustment after warm running).

Troubleshooting tips and what to look/listen for after service
- Loud valve clatter: likely too much clearance (loose). Recheck lash per manual.
- Ticking that disappears at higher rpm: possibly worn lifter or oiling issue.
- Misfire/loss of compression on one cylinder after reassembly: suspect a dropped keeper or a valve not seated properly. Remove head or re‑inspect before running long.
- Excessive oil consumption or blue smoke: check valve stem seals and guide wear.
- Valve float at high rpm: if symptoms persist with new springs, confirm spring seat and spring free‑length and installed height — wrong springs or incorrect install can cause float.

Analogies to make the parts/operation intuitive
- Valve spring = trampoline spring. If the spring gets weak, the jumper (valve) won’t be forced back in time and will “float off” the tramp when you need it to land. At high speed the cam is trying to make lots of little jumps — weak springs fail to follow.
- Keepers = the safety clip on a bungee hook. Tiny, but if they fail the whole hook (valve) can fly free into the machine (piston).
- Valve/seat = a door and doorframe that must seal perfectly. If the seat is worn or the door warped, the room (combustion chamber) won’t hold pressure.

Common causes that make you replace springs
- Age/fatigue (springs weaken).
- Broken spring from corrosion or damage.
- Rebuilding the head or replacing valves — new parts should have new springs and seals.
- Symptoms like loss of power, misfire, noisy valvetrain, or visible spring damage.

Final checks and recommendations
- Replace valve springs in sets (all springs for the head), not one at a time — springs age together and a single new spring can change dynamics.
- Replace valve stem seals whenever you pull springs—cheap insurance against oil burning.
- Keepers and retainers are small and cheap relative to the damage a failed one can do — replace if any wear.
- Always use correct tools (valve spring compressor) and follow torque/clearance specs from the TE‑20 manual.
- If you find worn guides, badly pitted seats, or bent valves, a machine shop can reface seats, grind valves, or fit new guides.

Quick symptom checklist to decide if valve springs are the problem
- Engine loses power and misfires at higher RPM → suspect weak springs/valve float.
- Ticking at high speed only → possible spring fatigue or worn lifters.
- One cylinder bad after cam work/valve train disturbance → check keepers/retainer seating.
- Blue smoke or oil smell → valve stem seals/guides, sometimes mistaken for springs.

That’s everything a beginner needs to inspect, remove, replace, and reinstall TE‑20 valve springs safely and correctly, plus the why and what can go wrong. Get the TE‑20 service manual for exact clearance and torque specs, and if you run into anything badly damaged (broken keepers, bent valve, severe guide wear), stop and get machine‑shop help — valve/piston collision repairs are not DIY unless you have the right tools and experience.
rteeqp73

Review: Seat for Massey Ferguson TE20 | eparts.shop Call us at 605-403-0120 with any questions you may have, we are always happy to help!

Making a Ferguson TE20 Tractor Axle Puller Plate Part 1 We use the Pitch Circle Diameter Function on our DRO to make a Ferguson TE20 Tractor Axle Puller Plate for the Press.

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