1) Purpose and symptom
- Theory: the valve-cover gasket seals the joint between the cylinder head/top of the valve train and the cover that keeps oil in and dirt out. A failed gasket lets engine oil escape and contaminants enter the valve area, causing oil drips, oil smell, smoking, low oil level and contaminated valve train/plug fouling. Replacing the gasket restores the oil-tight seal and prevents these faults.

2) Prepare and safety
- Tools: socket/box set, screwdrivers, gasket scraper or razor, cleaning solvent (degreaser), lint-free rags, new correct gasket (material matching original), gasket sealant (only if specified), torque wrench (or snugging method), marking paint/pen if you must remove/realign parts.
- Theory: clean, correct tools and a new gasket are required so mating faces are undamaged and the new gasket can compress uniformly to form the seal.

3) Warm engine slightly (optional)
- Theory: warm oil is less viscous and fasteners/old gasket seal are easier to remove. Do not work on a dangerously hot engine.

4) Remove obstructing items
- Order: disconnect negative battery lead (safety), remove air cleaner/snorkel/ignition leads or any other items that block access to the cover.
- Theory: gives clear access and prevents damage. Disconnecting battery prevents accidental start/shorts.

5) Expose the valve cover
- Order: remove nuts/bolts securing the valve/rocker cover in a systematic pattern; keep hardware in order. If the TE-20 has a breather or oil-fill cap on the cover, remove that too.
- Theory: even removal prevents distortion of cover and lets you inspect gasket/play.

6) Remove cover and inspect
- Order: lift the cover straight up; if it sticks, pry gently at one side only after unfastening bolts. Inspect the gasket and sealing surfaces for old gasket remnants, warpage, nicks, carbon buildup or soft spots on the cover.
- Theory: uneven or damaged surfaces prevent a continuous seal; the new gasket must seat on clean, flat surfaces.

7) Decide whether rocker assembly must come off
- Order: on some engines you can replace the gasket with rockers in place; on others you must remove the rocker assembly. If you remove rockers, mark orientation and note pushrod/rocker positions and be prepared to reset valve clearances to spec afterwards.
- Theory: removing the rockers gives better access and a cleaner seal but disturbs valve geometry; valve lash must be reset to maintain valve timing and engine performance.

8) Clean mating surfaces thoroughly
- Order: scrape all old gasket material from head and cover with a plastic or fine scraper; avoid gouging metal. Use solvent to remove oil and residue; dry with lint-free cloth.
- Theory: the new gasket seals by conforming to the faces; any leftover material or oil pockets will cause leaks by preventing uniform compression.

9) Inspect and prep cover and head
- Order: check cover flatness (place on a glass plate or sight surface) and check head face for burrs. Replace warped cover or dress small high spots; replace studs/bolts if damaged.
- Theory: warpage or high spots concentrate pressure and let oil seep around the gasket.

10) Fit the new gasket correctly
- Order: place the new gasket into or onto the cover/head as designed. If the gasket requires a thin bead of sealant at corners or oil-fill/tube openings, apply manufacturer-recommended sealant sparingly and only where specified.
- Theory: gasket material plus correct compression and any localized sealant at irregular joints produce a continuous oil-tight barrier. Overuse of sealant can prevent proper seating or squeeze into oil passages.

11) Reinstall cover and fasteners progressively
- Order: replace the cover straight down, ensure gasket stays aligned, finger-start bolts/nuts in a cross/star pattern, then tighten evenly in several passes to snug. Final torque: use the shop manual value if available; if not, tighten evenly to a light/firm feel—do not over-torque.
- Theory: even compression avoids ridge-bending the gasket and ensures a uniform seal. Over-tightening crushes gasket and can warp cover/head, creating new leaks.

12) Reassemble any removed valve train parts and set clearances
- Order: if you removed rockers/pushrods, reassemble in original order, then set valve clearances to TE-20 specifications (cold engine specification per manual).
- Theory: correct valve lash is required for proper valve timing, compression and to avoid valve/seat damage; removing the assembly changes geometry.

13) Final cleanup and checks
- Order: reinstall breather/air cleaner and any removed items, reconnect battery, top up oil if necessary, and wipe down the area.
- Theory: removing excess oil prevents residual drips that can be mistaken for leaks and lets you see if the repair is effective.

14) Test run and re-check
- Order: start the engine, run to operating temperature, watch and feel for leaks around the cover and breather, shut down, re-torque bolts lightly if required after cool-down or per manual.
- Theory: thermal expansion can change clamp loads; a short re-torque or check ensures the gasket has bedded in and remained sealed.

How the repair fixes the fault (summary)
- The original gasket fails by hardening, compressing, cracking or allowing gaps at imperfect mating faces. Removing the cover, cleaning and replacing the gasket restores a uniformly compressible sealing layer between the cover and head. Proper surface prep, correct gasket material and even clamping eliminate the leakage path, keeping oil where it belongs and preventing contamination of the valve train.

Quick practical cautions (brief)
- Don’t over-tighten bolts. Clean surfaces only—don’t gouge. If you remove rockers, reset valve clearances to spec. Use the correct replacement gasket for TE-20.

That is the ordered procedure with the theory integrated at each step.
rteeqp73

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