- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, and old clothes; work outside or in a well‑ventilated area; keep fire extinguisher nearby.
- Disconnect the battery before working on fuel or electrical parts.
- Depressurize fuel lines by cranking with shutoff closed (or follow pump manufacturer guidance). Fuel under pressure can pierce skin and cause injury.
- Keep rags and a small container to catch fuel; clean spills immediately; no smoking.

- Identify your TE‑20 fuel/starting system (important before any work)
- Diesel TE‑20: has an injection pump and injectors; "cold start" on these tractors is usually a starting aid on the injection pump (a starting valve or extra injector element) or a glow/harbour-type heater if fitted.
- Petrol/paraffin TE‑20: uses a vaporizer or intake heater; terminology can differ.
- How to tell: look at the engine. If there is a multi‑plunger injection pump with metal high‑pressure lines to injectors on the cylinder head, it’s diesel. If you see spark plugs, it’s petrol/kerosene.

- What "cold start injector" likely refers to (so you work on the right thing)
- Diesel TE‑20: a small starting valve/extra injection element or an adjustable injection timing/advance lever used to enrich fuel at cranking. It may be an integral part of the injection pump, or an extra nozzle/starting valve on the pump body.
- Petrol/paraffin TE‑20: a choke, vaporizer, or intake heater assembly rather than a fuel injector.

- Tools you need (with descriptions and how to use them)
- Adjustable spanner (crescent wrench)
- Use to loosen and tighten nuts and fittings of varying sizes. Set jaw size snug, pull handle toward you while turning to avoid slipping.
- Metric/SAE spanner set (open-end and box-end)
- Use the correct size matched to bolts/nuts; box end gives better grip and reduces rounding. Place box end fully on fastener and pull—don’t lever.
- Socket set with ratchet and extensions
- Speeds removal of nuts/bolts; use correct socket size. Use extension to reach recessed fasteners.
- Flare‑nut (fuel line) wrenches
- Thin‑jaw wrench that grips the nut on a fuel line fitting without rounding it. Always hold the line steady with one wrench and turn the fitting with the flare‑nut wrench.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- For clamps, small screws and linkages. Use correct tip to avoid stripping.
- Pliers (slip‑joint and needle‑nose)
- Pull clips, hold, bend small parts. Needle‑nose for tight places.
- Torque wrench (if reassembling injection pump components to specified torque)
- Tighten critical fasteners to manufacturer torque to avoid leaks or damage. Set torque and apply steady, smooth force.
- Soft‑faced hammer
- To tap parts free gently; use to avoid damage to machined surfaces.
- Wire brush and brass brush
- Remove carbon and corrosion from injector tips and fittings. Use brass on soft surfaces to avoid scratching.
- Rags and containers
- Catch fuel, wipe parts, keep area clean.
- Small mirror and torch/LED lamp
- Inspect injector tips, pump body and lines.
- Fuel filter replacement or inline filter, and small container for old fuel
- Catch contaminants and prevent dirt entering system.
- Hand primer pump or small manual fuel transfer pump
- To prime the system after work; use to remove air.
- Compression gauge (optional, to check general engine health)
- Tells if poor starting is due to low compression rather than injector.
- Injector puller (recommended)
- Injector tips can seize in the head; an injector puller grips and extracts the injector without damaging the head. Use if injector is stuck.
- Diesel injector tester / spray pattern tester (specialist)
- Pressurizes the injector to check spray pattern and opening pressure. Useful for diagnosing a faulty injector; many beginners will not own this—local workshop can test.
- Multimeter (if glow plugs or electrical starting aids involved)
- Check continuity and resistance of glow plugs or wiring circuits.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., WD‑40) and anti-seize
- Help free seized fittings and protect threads on reassembly.
- Marker and zip ties or small tags
- Label fuel line positions and keep small parts organized.

- How to locate and visually inspect the cold start injector/starting valve
- Follow the high‑pressure lines from the injection pump to the injectors on the cylinder head; the starting valve/element is on or near the pump body or intake port on some models.
- Inspect for obvious issues: cracked lines, loose fittings, fuel leaks, carbon build‑up on injector tips, broken linkages, or damaged wiring to any electrical starting aid.
- If the injector tip is oily/wet after cranking or smells of fuel, that injector may be leaking or not closing.

- Basic maintenance and cleaning you can do as a beginner (no special bench equipment)
- Clean exterior
- Disconnect battery, cover electrical parts, use rags and brush to remove carbon from injector tips and pump exterior.
- Tighten fittings
- Use flare‑nut wrench to snug all fuel line connections; hold line steady to avoid twisting.
- Replace inline fuel filter and drain water/contaminants from tank and filter bowl.
- Check and adjust injector rocker/clearance if applicable (follow TE‑20 manual specs).
- Prime the fuel system using the hand primer pump until firm; then crack each injector union briefly while cranking to expel air (use a rag to catch drips).

- Testing an injector (basic checks without specialist tester)
- Visual spray test (rudimentary): remove the injector and have a helper crank the engine while fuel is supplied via a low‑pressure line; observe spray—should be a fine, even mist (only for experienced users; pressurized fuel is hazardous). Safer: take removed injector to a workshop for a bench test.
- Resistance test for electric heaters/glow plugs: use a multimeter to check continuity/resistance against spec.
- Signs an injector needs replacement: poor/no spray, fuel dribbling or continuous leak, strong fuel smell, rough cold start on one cylinder, heavy black smoke or misfire localized to one cylinder.

- Removing and replacing a suspect cold start injector (general procedure)
- Safety: disconnect battery, relieve fuel pressure, put rags and catch pan under work area.
- Label and photograph fuel line positions to avoid reassembly errors.
- Use flare‑nut wrench to loosen the high‑pressure line at the injector—hold the line at the pump/line union and turn the nut, not the pipe.
- Remove any clamps or retaining nuts holding the injector. Use injector puller if stuck; gently tap around the injector boss with a soft hammer after penetrating oil to loosen.
- Inspect the injector tip, seating surface and nozzle; clean carbon carefully with brass brush. If nozzle hole(s) are damaged, pitted or welded-over with carbon that won’t clean, replace the injector.
- Fit new injector with new copper crush washer/gasket if required. Torque mounting nut to spec (use torque wrench).
- Reconnect high‑pressure line and tighten flare nut securely (do not round it).
- Prime system and bleed air as earlier; check for leaks.

- When replacement is required and what to replace
- Replace injector/nozzle if:
- Spray pattern is weak, dribbling, or asymmetric.
- Injector tip is corroded, pitted or cracked.
- Injector is stuck or leaking internally.
- Replace crush washers/gaskets whenever removing injectors (they seal the injector to the head).
- Replace fuel lines if cracked, flattened, or damaged.
- Replace fuel filter and clean tank if contaminated fuel suspected.
- Replace starting valve or pump internal parts if the cold‑start element within the pump is faulty — this often requires a specialist or a pump overhaul kit (the pump’s starting valve/check valve, delivery valve or cam plate parts).
- Replace glow plugs or electrical heater elements if fitted and faulty (test resistance; open circuit or very low/high values indicate failure).

- Why some replacements require a workshop or specialist tools
- Injector spray pattern and opening pressure require a high‑pressure test bench to measure and set—bench testing is the reliable way to know if an injector is serviceable.
- Injection pump internal parts and timing adjustments need precision tools and knowledge (timing marks, torque settings). Incorrect reassembly or timing can damage the engine and make starting worse.
- Pressurized injector removal can damage the cylinder head seating surface if done incorrectly—an injector puller and knowledge prevents damage.

- Reassembly, priming and start procedure
- Double‑check all fittings, new gaskets in place, and fasteners torqued to spec where required.
- Prime the fuel system using the hand primer until firm; open injector unions slightly and crank engine to purge air until steady fuel flow appears, then tighten.
- Reconnect battery, set throttle/advance to normal start setting, and crank. If no start, re‑bleed air and re‑check fittings.
- After starting, run engine until warm, watch for leaks, listen for misfires, and verify even running.

- Quick troubleshooting cues
- Hard cold starts on all cylinders: fuel pump timing, low compression, poor battery/cranking speed, or general fuel supply/filtration issues.
- Hard start localized to one cylinder: suspect that cylinder’s injector, nozzle, or valve.
- Smell of raw diesel from one cylinder and wet injector tip: injector leaking/doesn’t close.
- Black smoke from start: overfuelling or poor atomization — injector/nozzle issue or pump overdelivery.

- Final practical advice for a complete beginner
- Do simple cleaning, filter replacement, and leak/connection tightness checks yourself.
- For injector bench tests, injection pump internal work, precision timing or removal of stuck injectors, use a qualified tractor mechanic or diesel shop—bring the injectors/pump to them for testing and calibration.
- Keep replacement parts on hand: correct TE‑20 injectors (or injector nozzles), copper crush washers, new fuel filter, and hand primer pump. If unsure of the exact part number, supply your chassis/engine ID to parts supplier.

- Parts likely needed (common TE‑20 items)
- Injector/nozzle (specific to TE‑20 diesel engine) — replace if spray pattern or damage present.
- Injector copper crush washers/gaskets for each injector removed.
- Inline fuel filter element and gasket.
- Replacement high‑pressure fuel line or flare nuts if damaged.
- Injection pump starting‑valve or repair kit (if pump’s cold‑start mechanism is failing) — usually fitted by a specialist.

- Final safety reminder
- If you are not confident removing injectors or working on the injection pump, do not force parts; seek a diesel mechanic. Incorrect handling can damage the engine and be hazardous.

No extra commentary.
rteeqp73

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