Tools & consumables
- Basic hand tools: sockets, ratchet, breaker bar, combination wrenches (imperial sizes), screwdrivers, pliers.
- Impact or long breaker + penetrating oil (PB Blaster).
- Hydraulic floor jack and heavy-duty jack stands (rated for tractor weight).
- Bottle jack or axle jack (for supporting axle/beam).
- Punches, drift, cold chisel, short bars, hammer.
- Bench vise or hydraulic press (for bushing removal/installation).
- Bushing driver sockets (or length of pipe matching bushing OD).
- Angle grinder with flap disc and wire wheel, cutting wheel.
- MIG or stick welder (or access to welding service), grinder for cleanup.
- Hand drill and bits, center punch, drill press if available.
- Torque wrench (suitable range to 200 ft·lb).
- Threadlocker (blue), anti-seize, grease.
- Safety gear: gloves, eye protection, hearing protection, welding mask, respirator for dust/paint, fire extinguisher.
- Replacement parts: shock absorber (if worn), replacement bushings (rubber or polyurethane), inner metal sleeves, new bolts/nuts/washers (match original diameter and use Grade 5 or Grade 8 where load demands), replacement mount/bracket or steel plate to fabricate patch, paint/rustproof.

Safety precautions (must-follow)
- Work on level ground, chock wheels, set brake, put transmission in gear/park.
- Disconnect battery before welding. Keep fuel tank cap closed and remove sources of sparks/flammables.
- Never rely on a jack alone—always use rated jack stands under the frame or axle.
- Support front axle or rear housing so suspension is unloaded when removing/installing shock/mount.
- Wear eye, ear, and respiratory protection when grinding, drilling or welding.
- Keep fire extinguisher handy during cutting/welding.

Overview of the repair
You are replacing or repairing the shock absorber mount/bracket or its bushings on the TE‑20. Typical failures are cracked/ovalized mount holes, worn bushings, seized bolts, or a broken bracket. The procedure below covers inspection, removal, repair or replacement of bracket, bushing install, reassembly and test.

Step‑by‑step procedure
1) Inspect and plan
- Identify shock locations (top and bottom bracket positions on frame/axle).
- Note condition: cracked metal, elongated holes, worn/flat rubber bushings, seized hardware, bent bracket.
- Decide: replace bracket (preferred if badly damaged) or repair (weld crack, sleeve hole, install oversize bushing).

2) Prepare tractor
- Park on level, chock rear wheels, set brake.
- Lower implements and ensure no stored energy in hydraulic or springs.
- Disconnect battery negative terminal if welding or working near electricals.

3) Support suspension
- Place jack under axle or beam and raise slightly to take weight off the shock if required.
- Place jack stands under frame or axle at rated points—support so that removing the shock will not allow axle to drop.

4) Remove shock & fasteners
- Soak fasteners with penetrating oil and allow to sit.
- Remove top and bottom bolts/nuts. Use breaker bar or impact gun if available. If bolt head spins, hold with wrench on the other side or cut/nip bolt head and punch out stud.
- Remove shock absorber. Tag orientation for reinstallation.

5) Remove old bushings/sleeves and clean bracket
- If bushings are pressed in, use hydraulic press or bushing driver to press out. Use a suitably sized socket as a driver if no press—support the bracket in a vise and drive bushing out with punch.
- If bushings are bonded and difficult, cut them out carefully with a grinder—avoid thinning bracket metal.
- Clean the hole with wire wheel and inspect for ovalization, cracks, or material loss.

6) Assess bracket condition and choose repair method
- Minor crack: grind out paint along crack, bevel edges, clamp bracket in original alignment, tack weld both sides then run full penetration weld; avoid overheating (use intermittent welding) and clean slag.
- Ovalized/oversized hole: options
- Ream to next standard oversize and fit oversize bushing/sleeve (and larger bolt), or
- Weld up hole and re-drill to original size (preferable where dimension must be maintained), or
- Fit and weld a welded-in steel sleeve or patch plate over hole and drill true hole.
- Severely damaged/bracket bent or missing: fabricate or fit replacement bracket. Use same thickness mild steel as original (or thicker if matching geometry). Clamp and tack in correct alignment before final welding.

7) Welding & drilling tips
- Use a jig or clamp to maintain original alignment between bracket and mounting point while welding. Tack weld both ends to avoid twist.
- If welding on or near bushing seats, protect the bushing area from heat or remove bushings/sleeves before welding; heat ruins rubber.
- After welding, cool slowly; grind smooth and re-drill hole using drill press or hand drill with a center punch and pilot bit, then finish to final size with correct bit.
- Deburr and wire‑wheel painted surfaces; apply rust inhibitor or primer after repair.

8) Install new bushings/sleeves
- Use new rubber or polyurethane bushings sized to the shaft/bolt and outer sleeve. Press in new bushings with a press or use a bushing driver and hammering carefully; never deform the bushing.
- Insert inner metal sleeve. For rubber bushings, some models require the bolt to be tightened with the vehicle weight on the axle (to avoid preloading the rubber). If using polyurethane, lubricate with supplied grease to prevent squeak.

9) Refit shock absorber
- Reinstall shock in correct orientation using new bolts, lock washers and nuts. Use threadlocker if appropriate.
- Tighten nuts to recommended torque. If you don’t have the exact factory torque: approximate torques (use only as guide)
- 3/8" bolt: ~30–40 ft·lb
- 7/16" bolt: ~45–55 ft·lb
- 1/2" bolt: ~75–90 ft·lb
- 5/8" bolt: ~125–150 ft·lb
If unsure, start conservative and check the manual or a torque table for bolt grade and size.

10) Lower, settle and final torque
- Lower axle so suspension is supporting weight (if required by bushing type).
- Re-torque all fasteners to spec with weight on suspension (important for rubber bushings).
- Grease any grease fittings.

11) Test
- Cycle the suspension by raising/lowering or driving slowly and check for unusual noises, binding or movement.
- Recheck torque after first few hours of operation and again after 10 hours of use.

How the common tools are used (quick)
- Penetrating oil + breaker bar/impact: frees seized nuts/bolts.
- Jack/jack stands: safely support axle/frame while fasteners are removed.
- Punch/hammer: drive out old bolts/punch rivets.
- Press/vise + bushing driver or pipe: press bushings out/in squarely.
- Angle grinder: remove seized bolt heads, clean weld area and prepare metal.
- Welder: repair cracks, build-up worn holes or weld in sleeves; tack first, then finish weld with proper penetration while avoiding distortion.
- Drill and ream: produce clean, accurately sized holes for new bushings/sleeves.
- Torque wrench: ensure bolts are tightened to correct torque (do not guess).

Replacement parts required (common)
- Shock absorber (if worn/damaged).
- Rubber or polyurethane bushings and inner sleeves.
- New bolts, nuts and hardened washers (match original diameter; replace if thread damage or corrosion).
- Replacement bracket or plate material if fabricating.
- Welding consumables, paint and anti‑corrosion coating.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not supporting the axle properly: always use jack stands and support points.
- Welding without jigging: causes misalignment—clamp and tack before full weld.
- Overheating or welding with bushings in place: destroys rubber—remove bushings or shield them.
- Reusing stretched or corroded bolts: always replace load-bearing hardware.
- Overtightening bushings with suspension unloaded: preload causes premature failure—torque with appropriate suspension load.
- Using incorrect bushing size or no inner sleeve: leads to rapid wear and slop—match OEM inner sleeve ID/OD.
- Using wrong grade bolts (too weak): use appropriate grade for load-bearing use (Grade 5 or Grade 8 as originally fitted).
- Failing to check alignment after repair: can cause uneven wear or binding.

Final note (concise)
Repairing the shock mount on a TE‑20 is straightforward if you remove the shock, press out/replace worn bushings or repair/weld the bracket, then press in new bushings and reassemble with new hardware. Use correct supports, a press or proper drivers for bushings, and clamp/jig when welding. Replace any badly corroded bolts and re-torque with the weight on the suspension.
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Safety first: work on a cold engine, use eye protection and gloves, support any removed parts so they don’t fall, and relieve any tension on nearby components.

Ordered procedure with theory (step → why):

1) Gather tools and parts.
- What: manifold/exhaust gasket for TE‑20, basic spanners/sockets, penetrating oil, wire brush, gasket scraper, anti‑seize, torque wrench, replacement studs/nuts if needed.
- Why: correct gasket type and tools avoid improvising with inappropriate material; torque wrench and anti‑seize protect threads and ensure proper clamp.

2) Cool engine and isolate battery.
- What: wait until fully cold; disconnect battery to avoid accidental cranking.
- Why: prevents burns and electrical hazards; thermal contraction gives stable clearances.

3) Access the manifold.
- What: remove any heat shields, pipes or brackets blocking access to the manifold/head flange.
- Why: clear access is needed to remove fasteners without bending or breaking nearby parts.

4) Apply penetrating oil to nuts/studs and let soak.
- What: spray penetrating oil on fasteners, especially if corroded.
- Why: exhaust fasteners seize from heat and corrosion; penetration reduces risk of breaking studs when removing.

5) Loosen fasteners evenly and progressively; remove nuts/studs.
- What: loosen each nut a little first in a cross / alternating pattern, then remove.
- Why: even loosening reduces distortion of the manifold and head. Sudden uneven release can crack the manifold or strip studs.

6) Remove manifold and old gasket.
- What: carefully separate manifold from head, remove gasket remnants.
- Why: the old gasket will be carbonized and brittle; careful removal avoids scraping head or manifold faces.

7) Inspect manifold, head face, and studs.
- What: check faces for warpage, deep gouges, pitting; check studs for stretch or damage.
- Why: a new gasket cannot seal if mating surfaces are warped or if studs are loose/damaged; sealing requires flat faces and proper clamp force from good studs.

8) Clean mating surfaces thoroughly.
- What: remove carbon, old gasket material with a gasket scraper, wire brush, or solvent; avoid gouging. Clean studs and threads.
- Why: sealing is mechanical contact between surfaces and gasket; high spots or debris prevent uniform compression and cause leaks.

9) Replace studs or nuts as required; apply light anti‑seize to threads.
- What: screw in new studs if necessary; lightly coat threads with anti‑seize.
- Why: new/straight studs ensure correct clamp; anti‑seize helps future removal without significantly affecting torque calculation when used sparingly.

10) Position the new gasket correctly.
- What: align gasket holes with studs/ports; ensure correct orientation if gasket is one‑way.
- Why: gasket must sit flat and align with ports to seal exhaust gas; incorrect orientation or misalignment causes leaks or blocked ports.

11) Refit manifold onto head, start nuts by hand.
- What: place manifold onto studs and start nuts by hand to ensure proper alignment.
- Why: hand-starting prevents cross‑threading and ensures even seating before torquing.

12) Tighten nuts in stages using an alternating pattern.
- What: tighten all nuts to a low setting, then incrementally to final torque in a crisscross/alternate sequence.
- Why: staged, alternating tightening produces even clamp load across the gasket, preventing warpage and ensuring an even seal under thermal cycling.

13) Torque to specification (or conservatively if spec not available).
- What: use the factory torque spec for TE‑20 exhaust stud nuts; if unavailable, tighten progressively and avoid over‑torquing (overtightening can crush gasket or strip studs).
- Why: correct torque gives the gasket its designed compression; too little = leak, too much = gasket damage or stud failure.

14) Reassemble removed components and reconnect battery.
- What: reinstall heat shields, pipes, brackets.
- Why: restores original routing and support so manifold is not stressed; prevents vibration and misalignment.

15) Start engine, check for leaks, and run through heat cycles.
- What: start and listen for exhaust leaks at the flange; after cooling, re‑check torque if recommended.
- Why: thermal expansion can seat the gasket; some joints may require a re‑torque after initial heat cycles to maintain seal.

Theory — why the repair fixes the fault:
- Function: an exhaust gasket provides a gas‑tight seal between the cylinder head and exhaust manifold at high temperature and pulse pressure. It bridges microscopic irregularities and withstands thermal expansion.
- Failure mode: gaskets fail by burning/carbonization from hot escaping gases, crushing or embrittlement from age, or by loss of clamp due to corroded/stretched studs or warped mating faces. A leak lets high‑temperature, high‑velocity exhaust escape, causing noise, loss of backpressure (possible power loss), hot spots that can damage surrounding parts, and incorrect pressure pulses that can affect carburetion/timing.
- How replacement fixes it: a new gasket restores the proper sealing material and thickness. Cleaning and flattening mating surfaces and restoring correct clamp with good studs/nuts ensures the gasket is compressed uniformly to form a durable seal. Correct torque and pattern prevent warping and maintain the compression needed to stop leaks during repeated heating and cooling cycles.

Quick notes:
- Use the correct gasket material designed for exhaust service (metal composite/high‑temp).
- Replace damaged studs; don’t try to “stretch” torque to compensate for bad hardware.
- If manifold or head faces are badly warped/pitted, machining or replacement may be required — gasket can’t compensate for large irregularities.

Done.
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