What you’re doing: replacing a gearbox (transmission) shaft seal on a Mazda 1.8L BP. I’ll explain what the parts do, why the seal fails, what happens when it does, and give a clear, practical step‑by‑step replacement procedure aimed at a beginner mechanic. I’ll assume you mean the transmission input (clutch) shaft/front gearbox seal — the most common gearbox seal leak that affects clutch & gearbox oil control. If you need a different seal (output, speedo, shifter), the principles are the same and I’ll note differences.

Quick summary (one line): the seal’s job is to keep gear oil inside the gearbox and keep dirt out; it sits where a rotating shaft exits the gearbox; over time the lip wears or hardens and leaks, so you pull the transmission, remove the old seal, press in a new one with the lip oriented correctly, refill and reassemble.

Safety first
- Work on a flat level surface. Use high‑quality jack stands — never rely on a jack alone. Chock wheels.
- Wear gloves and eye protection. Gear oil and brake/cleaner are hazardous.
- Disconnect the battery (prevents starter engagement while you’re working).
- Have a transmission jack or a good floor jack + wood block to support the gearbox when removing and reinstalling.

Parts and consumables
- Correct replacement seal for your gearbox input shaft (OEM part or high‑quality aftermarket). Verify part number for your year/model.
- Gearbox oil (type and quantity per factory spec).
- New flywheel/pressure plate bolts if they are torque‑to‑yield or recommended replaced.
- Clutch alignment tool (if you remove the clutch).
- New pilot bearing/bushing if recommended.
- Clean rags, brake cleaner, degreaser.
- Thread locker (thread locker grade per manual), anti‑seize where called for.
- Optional: new clutch release/throwout bearing if clutch is old or transmission removal recommends replacement.

Tools you’ll need
- Basic hand tools: metric sockets, wrenches, ratchet, torque wrench.
- Screwdrivers, pliers.
- Pry bar (for gentle separation).
- Seal puller or small hooked pry tool.
- Seal driver (or appropriate socket) and a mallet to press new seal flush/level.
- Transmission jack (strongly recommended).
- Jack stands, floor jack.
- Drain pan for oil.
- Possibly a snap ring plier (if inner retaining ring holds seal).
- Shop manual (factory manual or good aftermarket manual) for your exact model for bolt patterns, torque specs, and nuances.

Key components (what they are and how they work)
- Engine flywheel: heavy disc bolted to the crank; the clutch pressure plate bolts to it. Analogy: flywheel is the driving wheel of a bicycle crank system.
- Clutch disc and pressure plate: clutch disc splines onto the gearbox input shaft; the pressure plate clamps disc to flywheel. This connects/disconnects engine from gearbox.
- Pilot bearing/bushing: supports the gearbox input shaft inside the crankshaft/flywheel center — like the centering bearing for a drive shaft.
- Gearbox input shaft (clutch shaft): the splined shaft that enters the clutch disc and transmits engine torque into the gearbox gears.
- Bellhousing: the cast housing that bolts the gearbox to the engine and encloses clutch components.
- Input shaft seal (front gearbox seal): a circular lip seal installed in the gearbox bellhousing where the input shaft exits toward the clutch/flywheel. It seals gearbox oil from escaping into the bellhousing/clutch area.
- Throwout bearing (release bearing)/slave cylinder: operates the clutch release; often on the input shaft or an external mechanism.
- Gearbox main gears, bearings, and output shafts: deep inside the gearbox, they get lubricated by gearbox oil contained by seals.

Theory — why this repair is needed
- The gearbox uses gear oil to lubricate gears and bearings. The oil must stay inside the gearbox. Wherever a rotating shaft passes through a fixed housing there must be a sealing surface that moves with the shaft — that’s the job of lip seals.
- Seals have a flexible lip that rides on the shaft surface and creates a thin fluid barrier, plus a spring around the lip to keep contact. Over time the lip hardens, tears, or the lip spring fails; or the shaft surface gets grooved/corroded; or the seal was previously installed wrong/damaged. Then oil seeps past the lip and leaks out into the bellhousing/clutch area.
- If gearbox oil wets the clutch disc, clutch slippage and poor engagement happen. If oil level drops, gears and bearings starve and wear prematurely, create noise, or fail catastrophically.
Analogy: a gearbox seal is like the rubber gasket around the spigot of a water bottle — if the rubber gets old or nicked the liquid slowly drips out and you have a mess.

What can go wrong if you don’t fix it
- Oil on clutch: slipping, burning clutch, contamination requiring clutch replacement.
- Low gearbox oil: overheating, rapid bearing and gear wear, noisy gearbox, catastrophic failure.
- Oil dripping onto exhaust/ground: fire risk (rare) and environmental contamination.
- Seal failure can mask other problems (like worn input shaft surface) — just replacing a seal without addressing a scored shaft will lead to quick re‑leak.

Common ways repairs go wrong (what to avoid)
- Installing the seal backwards. The lip must face the oil. If installed wrong you leak immediately.
- Striking the seal lip when driving in: deforming or cutting the sealing edge.
- Not replacing a grooved/scored shaft or pilot bearing — seal will fail again.
- Using the wrong seal size or material.
- Not cleaning housing and shaft properly — contamination under the seal leads to leaks.
- Not torquing bolts properly — bellhousing misalignment causes shaft runout and premature seal wear.
- Reusing contaminated bolts/gaskets or leaving old gasket material that prevents proper sealing.
- Not supporting the engine or transmission properly — safety hazard and alignment issues.

Step‑by‑step procedure (beginner-friendly, gearbox removal method)
Note: Some cars allow seal replacement without full gearbox drop — but on most Mazda BP 1.8L applications you’ll remove the gearbox to do this job properly and inspect the clutch. Follow your shop manual for special cases.

Preparation
1. Gather tools, new seal, oil, and all parts. Confirm the correct seal orientation from the parts seller or a photo of the old seal.
2. Park car on level surface, chock rear wheels, disconnect battery negative.
3. Raise car on ramps or use a jack and support on jack stands. Ensure stable.

Drain gearbox oil
4. Place drain pan under gearbox. Remove gearbox drain plug and drain oil. Reinstall drain plug when drained.

Remove ancillaries
5. Remove the airbox or intake piping if it blocks access to starter or bellhousing.
6. Remove the starter motor (disconnect wires; unbolt starter). Note starter wiring routing.
7. Disconnect the clutch slave cylinder or release bearing actuator. For hydraulic slave: disconnect line or unbolt and tie aside (do not spill significant fluid into clutch system). For external mechanical linkage: remove linkage.
8. Remove speedometer/cable or sensor wiring harnesses attached to gearbox.
9. Remove driveshafts/axles (if transaxle-style, remove halfshafts): unbolt axle nuts, disconnect from hub, pop out of gearbox. On some RWD setups remove propshaft. Secure wheel hubs to avoid drooping.
10. Disconnect reverse light switch wiring and any sensors.

Support and unbolt gearbox
11. Support gearbox with transmission jack or floor jack + wood block. Also support the engine (or let engine be supported by its mounts — but a transmission jack is safer to control movement).
12. Remove crossmember(s) and transmission mount(s) that hold gearbox to chassis.
13. Remove bellhousing bolts that join gearbox to engine. Label bolts or remember positions (different lengths). There may be starter mounting bolts also used; those are removed earlier.
14. Carefully slide the gearbox straight back off the engine. If it binds, check for missed bolts, then gently pry to ease separation while supporting gearbox weight.

Expose clutch and input shaft
15. With gearbox removed, you’ll see clutch disc, pressure plate and flywheel. The input shaft sticks into the clutch spline. At the center of the bellhousing face on the gearbox you will see the old input shaft seal.
16. Inspect the flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate, and pilot bearing. If the clutch is worn or oil contaminated, replace clutch components now — gearbox is already out so it’s efficient to replace the clutch if it’s at or near service limits.

Remove the old seal
17. Place gearbox on a clean bench or stand with the bellhousing face up.
18. Use a seal puller or a small hooked pry tool to get under the outer edge of the seal and pry it out. Be careful not to gouge the housing bore where the new seal seats. Work evenly and remove old seal.
19. Clean the bore thoroughly with a rag and lightly with brake cleaner; inspect for burrs, corrosion, nicks, or metal shavings.

Inspect input shaft and bore
20. Inspect the input shaft surface that the seal lip rides on. It should be smooth, free of deep grooves, corroded spots, or sharp edges. If you find a shallow score you can often polish it lightly with very fine emery cloth or ultra‑fine sandpaper (wrap around shaft and polish gently) until smooth. Deep grooves or pitting require shaft replacement or repair — replacing the shaft or gearbox may be necessary.
21. Check for a snap ring or retaining feature that holds the seal in place — some gearboxes use a snap ring that must be removed first. Replace snap ring if damaged.

Install new seal (orientation)
22. Confirm the seal orientation: the open side/inner lip faces the gearbox oil (toward gears) and the sealed face faces out to the clutch/flywheel. Look at the old seal and the new one for marking "IN" or a directional arrow; otherwise the spring side usually faces oil.
23. Lightly lubricate the seal lip with the gearbox oil (a thin film) — that helps initial running. Do not overload with grease.

Press in new seal
24. Use a seal driver sized to the outer diameter of the seal or the appropriate socket that matches the seal outer edge to press it evenly. Tap gently and evenly around the perimeter using a mallet until the seal is flush with the bore or seated to the specified depth (use the manual if it specifies a recess depth).
25. Make sure the seal is square; a cocked seal will leak. Don’t damage the lip when installing.

Reassembly of gearbox to car
26. If you removed the clutch, install the clutch disc using the alignment tool, then torque the pressure plate bolts evenly in a star pattern to the specified torque.
27. Replace pilot bearing if removed/worn.
28. Align the gearbox input shaft spline with the clutch disc using the alignment tool and carefully slide the gearbox forward until bellhousing mates to engine face. You may need to rotate the input shaft slightly to engage splines.
29. Reinstall bellhousing bolts finger tight, then torque in crisscross pattern to factory specs. (Use thread locker where specified and anti‑seize only where called for.)
30. Reattach transmission mount(s) and crossmember. Reinstall driveshafts/axles, torque axle nuts to spec.
31. Reconnect starter, electrical connectors, speedo, reverse switch, clutch slave/hydraulic lines (bleed the system if hydraulics disconnected), and intake components removed earlier.
32. Refill gearbox with the correct type and amount of gear oil through the fill plug; run the engine briefly in neutral and cycle gears to circulate, then check oil level per manual and top if needed.

Checks before driving
33. Start engine, verify clutch operation, move through gears on a stand (wheels off ground or with transmission in neutral but it’s best to check with wheels on ground at very low speed).
34. Inspect for leaks around the new seal, bellhousing area, axle seals and drain plug.
35. Test drive carefully, re‑check for leaks after a short drive and after the gearbox oil settles.

Notes, tips and troubleshooting
- Seal orientation is critical — lip faces oil. If you get the seals mixed up, you can often tell immediately because oil will leak out.
- If the input shaft is deeply grooved, a quick polish is a stopgap — replace the shaft or gearbox to avoid repeat failure.
- If after install you still leak, check for a worn pilot bearing (allows slight shaft movement causing seal wear), misaligned bellhousing (bent dowels or damaged mounting surfaces), or cracked housing.
- Use a quality seal driver. Hammering on the outer edge with a screwdriver often warps the seal and leads to leaks.
- Cleanliness is crucial: contaminants under the new seal seating will create pathways for leakage.
- Replace other seals if they are near end of life — while the gearbox is out, it’s common to replace the output seals, pilot bearing and throwout bearing preemptively.

What to expect in time
- A properly installed new seal should stop leaks for many years. If the shaft surface or alignment is poor, leaks will recur quickly (weeks to months).
- Monitor oil level and clutch function over the first 200–500 miles.

Final checklist (before finishing)
- All bolts torqued to spec (consult service manual for values).
- Transmission oil refilled and at correct level.
- Clutch hydraulic system bled and operating properly.
- No leaks at seal, drain/fill plugs, axle seals.
- Tools removed from under car, vehicle safely lowered.

If something goes wrong (quick troubleshooting)
- Immediate leak on first run: likely installed backward or seal damaged during installation. Remove and verify orientation/condition.
- Persistent slow leak: inspect shaft for groove, check bore for wear, check for snapped/incorrect snap ring.
- Clutch slipping: oil contaminated clutch — clean is often impossible; clutch will need replacement. This may require resurfacing or replacing flywheel.
- Gearbox noise after reassembly: low oil level, wrong oil type, or internal damage. Check oil level and type first.

Closing practical advice
- Take photos during disassembly — they help remember wiring and bolt locations.
- If this is your first gearbox drop, allow a full weekend and don’t rush. Label bolts as you remove them (length/location).
- If you feel uncertain about removing the gearbox, consider doing the seal replacement with a shop manual in hand or have a friend with experience help. Transmission jacks and alignment are the parts that benefit most from cooperation.

That’s the complete beginner‑friendly explanation, theory, and step‑by‑step process for replacing the gearbox input shaft/front seal on a Mazda 1.8L BP gearbox, plus what to watch for and common failure causes.
rteeqp73

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