Overview
- This guide covers removal, inspection and replacement of the drivetrain components most commonly serviced on a Mazda BP 1.8L (clutch/transmission/related drivetrain) — i.e., transmission removal, clutch/flywheel replacement, seals and ancillary parts. Follow exact factory torque specs and service limits for your model/year; values given below are typical ranges and examples only.

Safety first
- Work on a flat surface. Chock rear wheels.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Use quality jack stands and a hydraulic jack (never rely on a jack alone).
- Use an engine support bar or capable engine hoist/engine jack to support the engine when transmission is removed.
- Use a transmission jack or a second jack with a block of wood and secure straps to control/transmit weight.
- Wear eye protection, gloves and steel-toe footwear.
- Keep fire extinguisher nearby if working with fuel/exhaust components.
- Label and bag fasteners; keep a clean work area.

Parts commonly required (replace when doing clutch service)
- Full clutch kit: friction disc, pressure plate, release/throwout bearing.
- Clutch alignment tool (often supplied with clutch kit).
- Pilot bearing/bushing (if applicable).
- Flywheel: resurface or replace. Replace flywheel bolts if they are torque-to-yield (common practice).
- Transmission input shaft seal (front seal) and engine rear main seal if leaking or removed.
- Transmission mount(s) and bellhousing bolts if damaged/corroded.
- Transmission fluid.
- Optional: clutch fork pivot/guide if worn, new shift linkage bushings, axle/CV boot if leaking, starter motor bolt(s) if damaged.

Tools required and how to use them
- Basic hand tools: metric socket set (1/4", 3/8", 1/2" drives), combination wrenches, extensions, universal joint. Use appropriate sockets (6-point recommended for bolts).
- Torque wrench (range including up to ~150 Nm). Use to final-torque all critical fasteners to specified values. Set value and tighten in pattern gradually.
- Breaker bar/impact gun (for stubborn bolts). Use impact to remove but verify torque with torque wrench on reassembly.
- Transmission jack or floor jack + wood block. Place cradle under transmission and strap it before disconnecting. Lower slowly and evenly.
- Engine support bar or engine hoist. Place correctly under engine lifting points or use manufacturer's engine support locations.
- Clutch alignment tool: insert through friction disc splines into pilot bearing to center disc while torquing pressure plate bolts. Remove after bolts tightened.
- Flywheel holder or pry bar: to hold flywheel when loosening/tightening flywheel bolts. Use wood block against starter ring gear or use a flywheel locking tool (prevent wheel damage).
- Pilot bearing puller / slide hammer or small socket and hammer for removal. For installation, a press or a drift sized to bearing outer race to seat evenly.
- Seal driver or correctly sized socket to install seals squarely.
- Pry bars and screwdrivers: used to carefully separate transmission from engine — apply even pressure on bellhousing tabs, avoid prying on input shaft or mating surfaces.
- Brake cleaner and shop rags: clean contact surfaces. Avoid contamination of clutch friction surface.
- Thread locker on specified bolts (check factory manual).
- Dial caliper or micrometer for disc thickness and flywheel runout checks.

Step-by-step procedure

1) Preparation
- Gather parts/tools, clear workspace, chock wheels.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Raise vehicle and support on jack stands. Remove both front wheels for access if needed.

2) Remove obstruction items
- Drain transmission fluid (optional before lowering to avoid spillage). Remove fill and drain plugs.
- Remove center exhaust sections or heat shields if they block access.
- Remove starter motor (disconnect wiring and unbolt). Mark wires.
- Disconnect shift linkage and reverse light switch connector. Remove speedometer cable/electronic VSS connector.
- Remove drive axles/CV shafts from transmission: remove pinch bolts/axle nuts and pry/slide the axle out of hub and transmission (support hub to avoid damaging CV joint). For some setups you remove lower ball joint to allow axle out. Use pry carefully — do not hammer the transmission case.
- Remove any wiring harnesses or brackets attached to transmission.

3) Support engine and transmission
- Place engine support bar or support engine from above (or use engine hoist).
- Place transmission jack under the transmission and secure. Make sure transmission is stable and centered.

4) Remove transmission mounts and crossmember
- Unbolt the transmission crossmember and/or mount(s). Do not remove all engine supports or engine mounts that would let engine drop.
- Remove bellhousing-to-engine bolts. There are multiple bolts around the bellhousing; work methodically. Keep note of bolt lengths/positions.

5) Separate transmission from engine
- Slide transmission rearwards (toward rear of car) while wiggling to clear input shaft from clutch disc and splines. It may hang up on the input shaft splines or alignment; use gentle pry from bellhousing lip if necessary. Do not force with big hits; ensure engine is supported.
- Lower transmission on the jack and move it out from under vehicle enough to access clutch assembly.

6) Remove clutch assembly
- Remove pressure plate bolts in a star pattern, one turn at a time to relieve spring tension evenly. Remove pressure plate and clutch disc. Keep orientation of pressure plate face relative to engine if needed.
- Inspect clutch disc for wear (thickness, rivet exposure), pressure plate surface for hotspots, diaphragm spring condition.
- Mark flywheel orientation and inspect flywheel surface: scoring, cracks, heat spots, runout. Replace or resurface if glazed/hot-spotted beyond spec.

7) Inspect/replace pilot bearing and seals
- Remove pilot bearing from crankshaft with puller or carefully with a punch and slide hammer (pull outward). Replace pilot bearing. Use a press or install by driving in evenly with a socket sized to bearing outer race until flush.
- Replace transmission input shaft seal (replace with seal driver or socket, seat square). Also consider replacing rear main seal if leaking — this requires additional steps and possibly removing more components if present.

8) Flywheel service
- If flywheel is to be re-used, have it resurfaced by a machine shop if within factory spec thickness and no cracks. If resurfaced, replace flywheel bolts (if TTY) and clean seating surfaces.
- Torque flywheel bolts to spec in a star pattern. Use thread locker if specified. Typical flywheel bolt torque range on many Mazda small engines: 70–110 Nm — confirm exact spec in factory manual. Tighten in sequence.

9) Replacement clutch installation
- Clean flywheel and pressure plate mating surfaces with brake cleaner; do not let cleaner soak clutch friction surfaces.
- Use new clutch disc and pressure plate. Place clutch disc against flywheel using clutch alignment tool through disc into pilot bearing. Ensure disc is oriented: side marked “flywheel side” or facing outward toward pressure plate per kit instructions.
- Fit pressure plate over alignment tool and hand-thread bolts. Tighten bolts incrementally and evenly in star pattern to final torque (typical 20–30 Nm for small bolts, confirm manual). Remove alignment tool after bolts torqued.

10) Prepare transmission for reinstallation
- Inspect input shaft splines and grease lightly with high-temp grease on splines only (very little). Do not get grease on friction surfaces.
- Install new input shaft seal and any new bearings. Replace trans mount bushings if worn.

11) Reinstall transmission
- Raise and align transmission on the jack to the engine. Guide input shaft into clutch spline/pilot bearing using visual alignment. The clutch alignment tool helps keep disc centered.
- Pull transmission forward until bellhousing seats flush against engine and dowel pins engage. Start bellhousing bolts by hand to ensure threads aligned. Do not force with misaligned bolts.
- Torque bellhousing bolts to spec in a crisscross pattern (typical ranges 30–65 Nm depending on bolt).
- Reinstall transmission mounts/crossmember and torque mount bolts.

12) Reconnect everything
- Reinstall starter, shift linkage, speed sensor connectors, wiring, and any removed brackets.
- Reinstall axles/CV shafts: slide carefully into transmission until you feel/see engagement; sometimes a light tap on hub assembly or rotating the hub slightly helps align splines. Tighten axle nuts to spec (often high torque around 150–210 Nm for axle nut — check manual).
- Reconnect exhaust if removed. Refill transmission with correct type and quantity of fluid.
- Reconnect negative battery terminal.

13) Final checks and bleed (if hydraulic clutch)
- For hydraulic clutch: bleed the system (pump pedal, open bleeder until air-free) or use vacuum bleeder. Ensure correct pedal free play and engagement point.
- Check for leaks (oil, seal, axle boots). Inspect starter engagement and shift through gears with vehicle on stands before lowering.
- Road test: check for clutch slippage, judder, noise, shifting quality. Re-check torques after initial drive if recommended.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Not supporting the engine properly: can lead to dropped engine or misalignment. Always use engine support or hoist.
- Reusing worn clutch parts: pressure plate and disc should be replaced as a set; reusing old disc or throwout bearing leads to early failure.
- Contaminating clutch with oil/grease: keep friction surfaces clean. If contaminated, replace disc and often pressure plate.
- Improper alignment of clutch disc: leads to difficult transmission installation or clutch drag. Use alignment tool and center pilot bearing.
- Reusing TTY (torque-to-yield) bolts: always replace these bolts.
- Incorrect torque or sequence on flywheel/pressure plate bolts: can warp parts and cause vibration; use star pattern and correct torque.
- Damaged input shaft splines: check for wear before installing; a damaged spline can destroy a new clutch disc.
- Forgetting to replace seals: once transmission removed, replace input seal and inspect rear main to prevent future leaks.
- Not supporting transmission properly during removal/reinstallation: transmission can fall and cause injury/damage.
- Over-greasing splines: a thin smear is enough; excess grease migrates onto disc.

Notes on fluids and break-in
- Use manufacturer-specified transmission fluid type. Fill to correct level via fill plug.
- New clutch break-in: avoid full-throttle launches for a few hundred kilometers; moderate engagement and progressive load helps bedding.

Typical times
- DIY experienced technician: 4–8 hours for clutch job (varies widely). With complications or rusted bolts, longer.

Final reminder
- Always consult the factory service manual for your exact model year for specific bolt torque values, sequences, and any special procedures or service limits. The procedures above are industry-standard but must be cross-checked against OEM specs before starting work.
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