Job: Replace a front CV axle (drive shaft) on a Mazda3 (FWD). This is a common drivetrain repair. Steps are written for a generic Mazda3 front axle replacement — follow your vehicle’s factory manual for exact specs and any model-year variations.

Required tools & consumables
- Floor jack and 2 quality jack stands (capacity ≥ 2 tons)
- Wheel chocks
- 1/2" drive breaker bar (18–24" length)
- 1/2" drive ratchet and sockets set (including large axle nut socket; typically 32–36 mm or specific to your car)
- Torque wrench (range to at least 250 ft·lb / 340 N·m)
- 3/8" drive ratchet and metric socket set
- Hex/Allen and Torx bits (if applicable for caliper/bracket)
- Pry bar (stout)
- Hammer and punch
- Ball-joint separator or pickle fork OR tie-rod separator (for disassembling hub control arm connection)
- Flat screwdriver
- Needle-nose pliers
- Snap-ring pliers (only if inner circlip present)
- Slide hammer or hub puller (if axle stuck in hub)
- Rubber mallet
- Brake cleaner and rags
- Replacement parts: complete CV axle assembly (left or right as needed), new axle nut (single-use for many OEMs), new cotter pin or locking washer if used, transmission/differential seal (inspect; replace if leaking), small amount of gear oil if seal replacement required
- Safety gear: eye protection, gloves, steel-toe shoes (recommended)

Safety precautions (follow these without exception)
- Work on a flat level surface. Engage parking brake and chock rear wheels.
- Use jack stands; never rely on the hydraulic jack alone.
- Wear eye protection — debris and grease can spray.
- Support suspension components before removing bolts to avoid sudden movement.
- Keep bystanders clear and follow torque specs for fasteners.
- Dispose of fluids/parts per local regulations.

Step-by-step procedure

1) Preparation
- Park, chock, open hood, remove key.
- Loosen (but do not remove) the front wheel lug nuts while the car is on the ground using an appropriate socket.

2) Raise and support vehicle
- Use floor jack to raise the front corner or whole front of the vehicle depending on space.
- Place jack stands under manufacturer-recommended lift points. Lower onto stands. Verify stable.

3) Remove wheel
- Remove lug nuts and wheel. Stow wheel aside.

4) Remove axle nut
- Remove dust cap (if present) with screwdriver.
- Break loose and remove the axle nut with breaker bar + appropriate socket. This often requires significant force — use a helper to apply parking brake or have an assistant step on brakes if removing only one wheel. Keep orientation: some Mazda3s use a center nut retained by cotter pin or locking tab.
- Replace with new axle nut on reassembly (most are torque-to-yield / single-use).

How tool is used: Breaker bar gives high leverage to loosen tightly torqued axle nut. A stout socket sized to the nut is required. Use correct impact or hand socket — avoid damaged sockets.

5) Disconnect brake caliper & rotor
- Remove brake caliper bolts (usually 2). Hang caliper out of the way with a hanger or wire; do NOT let it hang by the brake hose.
- Remove brake rotor. On some models rotors slide off; others may have small retaining screws.

6) Separate lower ball joint / control arm or tie rod end (as required)
- To gain clearance to pull the hub out and slide axle free: separate the lower ball joint or unbolt lower control arm bolt, or use tie-rod end removal depending on design. The goal is to allow hub/knuckle to pivot outward.
- Use ball-joint separator or pickle fork. Support the knuckle with a jack or pry bar as you separate.

How tool is used: Ball-joint separator wedges between ball joint stud and control arm to release taper without damaging threads. Apply penetrating oil first, then strike separator with hammer until it releases.

7) Push hub outward and free axle from hub
- With knuckle free to swing outward, push the hub assembly outward so the axle shaft slides out of the hub. If stuck, use a hub puller or a slide hammer attached to the axle flange to pull it out. A few sharp hammer blows to the back of the hub (with protective block) can help free it.
- If the axle flange has a retaining tab or C-clip inside the hub, remove per service manual procedures.

How tool is used: Slide hammer attaches to axle flange or hub to deliver repeated pulling force to overcome corrosion or pressed fit. Use controlled pulls.

Common pitfall: Using excessive hammering can damage wheel bearing race or ABS sensor tone ring. Avoid hitting ABS rings.

8) Remove inner CV from transmission/differential
- Pry the inner CV joint out of the transmission using a pry bar. Support the trans side with a small jack or block if needed to prevent stressing the engine/trans mount.
- Many axles have a snap ring that engages the trans differential; pull until you feel the clip pass and the axle withdraws.
- Catch any small fluid that may leak; if fluid leaks, replace the inner seal or top up gear oil to spec after reinstall.

How tool is used: Pry bar is used gently at the joint boot (not at boot clamp) to pop the splines free. Avoid prying on the transmission housing directly.

Common pitfall: Abrupt prying can damage the transmission seal. If inner joint refuses to move, check for retaining clips; do not beat the transmission housing.

9) Inspect parts & prepare new axle
- Inspect hub bearing, torn boots, ABS tone ring, and transmission seal for damage.
- Compare new axle to old: length, spline count, circlips, flange orientation.
- Clean splines in hub and transmission opening with brake cleaner and rag. Lightly grease splines only if manufacturer recommends (most CV axles insert dry and use the retaining clip).

Replacement parts: Use a full assembled CV axle (preferred). If boot or joint only requires repair, a full axle is still often better unless experienced.

10) Install new axle
- Insert inner splines into the transmission until you feel/hear the snap of the retaining clip engage (if present). You may push by hand; a soft-face mallet can seat it fully. Ensure the axle is fully home.
- Route outer end into hub, slide through rotor and hub flange.

How tool is used: Rubber mallet taps the axle end to seat it fully into the trans after alignment; avoid heavy steel hammer blows.

Common pitfall: Not seating inner spline fully — will cause drivetrain vibration and leakage.

11) Reassemble hub/suspension
- Re-seat hub into knuckle, reattach lower control arm/ball joint or tie-rod end, torque bolts to spec.
- Reinstall rotor and caliper. If replacing rotor or pads, follow pad-in-bed procedure if required.

12) Torque the axle nut
- With the vehicle still raised and knuckle loaded as specified (some procedures require rotating wheel or letting suspension droop to settle bearings), torque the new axle nut to the manufacturer specification. Typical Mazda3 axle nut torque ranges approximate 159–217 N·m (117–160 ft·lb) — verify exact value for your year/model in the service manual. Install cotter pin or locking device if applicable.
- If hub uses a crush sleeve or specific torque-to-yield nut, use a new nut and follow the one-time use instruction.

How tool is used: Torque wrench set to correct value; snug with breaker/ratchet then finalize with torque wrench. If additional angle tightness required, use angle gauge.

Common pitfall: Under-torquing causes play and bearing failure; over-torquing can preload bearings or damage threads.

13) Reinstall wheel & lower vehicle
- Mount wheel, hand-tighten lug nuts.
- Lower vehicle carefully to ground.
- Torque lug nuts to spec in star pattern.

14) Test & final checks
- Check for leaks at transmission seal.
- Test drive at low speed, check for vibrations, clicking noises under acceleration/turning.
- Re-torque axle nut/lug nuts after a short test drive if recommended.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Damaging CV boot: avoid prying on the rubber boot; use correct puller or slide hammer on flange.
- Reusing axle nut: many OEM axle nuts are single-use — replace with new torque-to-yield nut if specified.
- Not supporting suspension: leaving control arm unsupported can let the knuckle snap and damage brake lines or sensors.
- Not replacing leaking seals: if transmission gear oil leaks, replace the seal and top up fluid; driving with a damaged seal will ruin the new axle.
- Forgetting ABS ring damage: hitting or bending tone ring can cause ABS errors.
- Cross-threading or incorrect torques: always use the correct socket and torque wrench.
- Reinstalling without seating splines: verify the inner CV clip engaged — don’t drive if uncertain.

When replacement parts are required
- Replace the CV axle assembly if there is clicking in turns, torn boot with grease loss, severe vibration, or visible joint play.
- Replace axle nut, cotter pin/locking washer, and any seals that leak.
- Replace hub bearing if excessive play/noise or if hub stuck to old axle.
- Consider new rotor/pads if damaged during removal.

Final notes
- Always consult an OEM service manual for exact torque specs and specific removal steps for your model year (hybrid differences, antilock systems, or subframe layout can change details).
- If unsure about any step, consider professional assistance — improper drivetrain work can cause steering instability or further damage.

End of procedure.
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