1) Purpose and failure mode (theory)
- The serpentine belt is a single multi-rib belt that transmits crankshaft torque to belt-driven accessories (alternator, A/C compressor, power-steering pump or electric pump, and—on some engines—the water pump).
- Failure modes: belt wear (cracks, rib separation, glazing), contamination (oil/antifreeze), stretched belt or weak tensioner, and bearing failure in idler/tensioner pulleys. Symptoms are squeal/slip, loss of charging, A/C failure, power-steering assist loss, or engine overheating if the water pump is driven.

2) Preparations (why)
- Safety and correct parts matter: a new correct-width, correct-rib-count belt restores contact area and prevents premature failure. Tools let you control the tensioner safely.
- Gather the replacement belt (OEM or exact-fit aftermarket), inspection tools (mirror, flashlight), a breaker-bar or belt-tool sized for the tensioner, sockets, and optionally a torque wrench and replacement tensioner/idler if needed.

3) Safety and access (why)
- Park on flat ground, engine cold, parking brake set. Disconnect negative battery terminal if you will be removing electrical connectors or the alternator for access—prevents shorts and accidental cranking.
- Remove any plastic covers or splash shields blocking access so you can see the belt routing and pulleys.

4) Document routing (why)
- Locate and photograph or copy the belt routing diagram (often on an under-hood sticker). Correct routing is essential because the belt must follow the designed path to engage the correct pulley diameters and keep accessories timed properly.

5) Inspect belt and pulleys before removal (why)
- Look for cracked ribs, missing chunks, glazing (shiny hard ribs), or oil contamination. Spin idler and tensioner pulleys by hand: roughness, noise, or play indicates bearing failure. Identifying these lets you decide whether to replace pulleys/tensioner with the belt—necessary because a new belt on a bad pulley will fail fast.

6) Relieve tension with the tensioner (why)
- The automatic tensioner maintains correct belt tension. To remove the belt you rotate the tensioner against its spring to slacken the belt. Use the proper tool on the tensioner’s square or bolt to avoid slipping. Controlling the tensioner prevents injury and avoids damaging the tensioner spring.

7) Remove the old belt (why)
- With the tension relieved, slip the belt off a convenient pulley and then remove it fully. Removing the old belt allows inspection of each pulley’s surface and confirms routing points. Compare the old belt to the new one for length and rib profile.

8) Inspect accessory pulley alignment and surfaces (why)
- Check each pulley for scoring, rust, or misalignment. Misaligned pulleys cause edge wear and rib separation. Replace or realign pulleys as needed. Clean any oil/grease from pulley faces—contamination ruins new belts.

9) Replace tensioner/idler if required (why)
- If the tensioner spring is weak, or the pulley bearings show play or noise, replace the assembly. A new belt requires a reliable tensioner to maintain correct tension; otherwise the belt will slip or wear prematurely.

10) Route the new belt (why)
- Route the belt exactly per the diagram; the ribbed side engages grooved pulleys and the smooth side may ride flat. Proper routing ensures correct wrap angles and torque transmission to each accessory.

11) Set tension (why)
- Rotate the tensioner again and position the belt over the final pulley, then slowly release the tensioner so it takes up the slack. The automatic tensioner sets preload via its spring and/or hydraulic mechanism; that restores the correct belt tension without manual measurements. If your tensioner is adjustable, set to the service manual spec.

12) Verify seating and tension (why)
- Inspect that ribs sit in pulley grooves and the belt is centered on each pulley. With the engine off, push on the longest run: it should have minimal deflection consistent with the tensioner design. Correct seating prevents jumping and noise.

13) Start engine and observe (why)
- Run the engine briefly and watch belt tracking and listen for chirping. A properly seated belt and healthy tensioner will run quietly with consistent alignment. Observe alternator charging, A/C engagement, and steering assist to verify accessory function.

14) Final checks and test drive (why)
- After a short drive, re-inspect belt tension and pulley temperature. Retorque any removed bolts to spec if you disassembled tensioner mounting—consult the factory manual for torque values. Confirm no leaks or contaminations present.

How the repair fixes the fault (summary)
- Replacing a worn or contaminated serpentine belt restores the full rib contact and friction needed to transmit torque to accessories, eliminating slip/noise and restoring charging, A/C, and steering/pump operation. Replacing a weak tensioner or bad idler removes sources of insufficient preload or bearing drag that cause accelerated wear and mis-tracking. Together, the new belt plus healthy pulleys/tensioner re-establish correct geometry, wrap angles, and tension so accessories run at the designed speeds and loads—solving the symptoms and preventing sudden belt failure that could disable charging or cooling.

Quick practical notes (concise)
- Always replace the belt with the correct rib count and profile.
- If oil or coolant contaminated the old belt, find and fix that leak before installing the new belt.
- When in doubt, replace the tensioner and idlers with the belt—they are inexpensive insurance.
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