Tools & supplies
- Full hand tool set (sockets, ratchets, extensions, wrenches, breaker bar)
- Torque wrench (capable of required factory torque range)
- Plastigauge (various sizes) OR micrometer (0.01 mm or 0.0001 in) and inside mic / bore gauge
- Feeler gauges
- Dial indicator (for end-play if required)
- Small hammer and soft-faced mallet
- Puller set (if removing pistons from rods; usually not needed)
- Engine stand or strong support for engine if lifted from tractor
- Floor jack and heavy-duty jack stands (or engine hoist)
- Clean rags, parts cleaner / solvent, degreaser
- Assembly lube (engine oil or dedicated assembly grease)
- New rod bearing shells (correct part numbers for your MF model/engine)
- New rod bolts/nuts if factory calls for one-time stretch bolts
- Gasket set / oil pan gasket, oil seal(s) as required
- Torque-angle gauge (if specified by factory)
- Marker or scribe for numbering rods/caps
- Inspection tools: straight edge, magnifier
- Shop manual or factory specs (clearance, torque, bearing orientation, regrind sizes)
- Oil drain pan, protective gloves, eye protection

Safety precautions
- Work on a flat, solid surface. Support tractor or engine with rated jack stands/engine hoist; never rely on a jack only.
- Disconnect battery to avoid accidental starter engagement.
- Wear eye protection and gloves; avoid loose clothing around rotating parts.
- Drain engine oil and coolant as required and collect fluids properly.
- Keep work area clean; prevent dirt/debris entering crankcase.
- If you must lift the engine out, use a rated engine hoist and follow proper lift points.

Overview of the job
You are replacing/inspecting the connecting-rod big-end bearings (rod bearings). Typical steps: gain crankcase access (remove oil pan and any obstructing components), mark rod/cap orientation, remove rod caps, inspect journals and bearings, measure clearances (Plastigauge or micrometer), fit correct bearing shells, install caps and torque to spec, rotate crank to check for binding, reassemble with new gaskets/seals and refill oil.

Step-by-step procedure

1) Preparation
- Read the workshop manual for your exact MF model/engine to get bearing clearance specs, crankshaft journal dimensions, rod bolt torque and if rod bolts are single-use.
- Gather parts: a full set of rod bearings (one matched upper/lower shell per rod), and any specified undersize shells if crank journals may need machining.
- Drain engine oil and remove necessary ancillary parts (fan, belts, starter if in the way).

2) Access the rods
- Remove oil pan (and oil pickup if required) to expose crank and rod big ends.
- Clean around access area before opening to minimize contamination.

3) Mark rods and caps
- Number each rod and cap pair in sequence (1, 2, 3, etc.) and indicate direction of the cap (arrow toward front). Keep each rod/cap matched and in orientation as removed.

4) Remove rod caps and bearings
- Unfasten rod cap bolts/nuts evenly. Keep record of bolt orientation and whether they are marked/numbered from factory.
- Carefully remove cap; tap gently with soft mallet if stuck.
- Lift piston/rod assembly slightly in the bore if needed to access bearing shells. Keep piston orientation.

5) Inspect bearings and journals
- Remove bearing shells and inspect for scoring, overheating (blueing), flattening, metal particles, or unusual wear patterns.
- Inspect crank journal surface for grooves, pitting or out-of-round. If damage present, journal regrind may be required and corresponding undersize bearings ordered.
- Inspect rod bores and cap face for flatness and for signs of hammering or distortion.

6) Measure journal diameter and bearing clearance
Option A — Plastigauge (recommended for shop-level quick check)
- Clean crank journal and bearing shell contact surfaces.
- Fit new lower and upper bearing shells into rod and cap dry (no oil or assembly lube).
- Cut a strip of Plastigauge to fit across the journal and place it on the journal (across center).
- Assemble rod cap and torque to factory spec (do NOT rotate the crank while tightened).
- Remove cap carefully and compare the flattened Plastigauge against the scale to get oil clearance.
- Record clearance and compare to factory spec.

How Plastigauge is used: it deforms under the bearing clamp pressure; the width of the flattened strip correlates to clearance. Choose correct Plastigauge grade for expected clearance range. Only one measurement per strip—replace and repeat if necessary.

Option B — Micrometer measurement
- Measure crank journal diameter with a micrometer at several circumferential points and several axial positions; compute journal average and out-of-round.
- Measure bearing shell inside diameter (or use published shell ID for the bearing size).
- Clearance = bearing ID − journal OD. Compare to spec. If out-of-spec, machine journal or fit undersize bearings.

7) Decide on replacement
- Always replace rod bearing shells if they show wear/damage or if clearance is out of spec. It’s common practice to replace all rod bearings as a set.
- Replace rod bolts/nuts if specified as torque-to-yield (single-use) or if any stretch/damage is evident.

8) Fit new bearings and reassemble
- Clean everything thoroughly; no contamination.
- Install new bearing shells into rod and cap, ensuring tangs seat in grooves and oil hole/slot alignment matches crank oil holes.
- Apply a thin film of engine oil or assembly lube to bearing surface (if using Plastigauge you would run dry for measurement first).
- Reinstall cap, snug by hand, then torque to factory sequence and values. Use a new torque-angle procedure if specified.
- After torquing, rotate crank by hand 2–3 full revolutions checking for smooth rotation and no binding. If binding, stop and diagnose (misaligned cap, debris, reversed bearing, incorrect fit).

9) Final checks
- Re-measure clearances if required after final torque (some shops re-check).
- Check rod side clearance and free play of piston/rod in bore per manual.
- Inspect oil pump pickup screen and clean. Replace oil filter and oil.
- Reinstall oil pan with new gasket, torque pan bolts to spec.
- Prime oil system per manual (crank forward with fuel shut-off/disconnected or use pre-oiler) before starting.
- Refill with correct oil grade and capacity.

Replacement parts commonly required
- Full set of rod bearing shells (matching sizes, standard or undersize)
- Rod bolts/nuts (if one-time use specified or found damaged)
- Oil pan gasket, oil seals as needed
- Engine oil & new oil filter
- Possibly crankshaft machining/undersize bearings if journals are damaged or out-of-round

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Mixing up rod caps and rods: always number and keep matched pairs together.
- Reusing worn or damaged bearings: replace if any scoring, discoloration, or metal transfer is present.
- Wrong bearing orientation or missing tangs: install bearings so tangs seat and oil grooves align with holes; oil hole alignment is critical.
- Contamination in bearings: clean thoroughly before assembly; even small metal particles cause rapid wear.
- Incorrect clearance: do not guess clearances—measure with Plastigauge or micrometer, use correct shell size or regrind crank as needed.
- Improper torque or reused stretch bolts: use a calibrated torque wrench and replace bolts if they’re torque-to-yield or distorted.
- Rotating crank with Plastigauge installed: it will smear and give false readings—only torque with Plastigauge in place, then remove cap to read.
- Failing to check journal roundness: an acceptable average diameter with excessive out-of-round requires regrinding rather than changing shell thickness.
- Not priming oil system before start: causes immediate bearing damage on first start.

Notes specific to MF230/235/240/245/250 series
- Exact bearing sizes, clearances and rod bolt torque values differ by engine variant; consult the factory workshop manual or reputable parts supplier for your specific engine (Perkins/Massey derivatives). Order bearings by engine serial if possible to ensure correct shells/oversize if crank has been reground.

Quick checklist before first start
- All caps torqued to spec, bolts/nuts new if required.
- Bearings free of debris, proper lubrication applied.
- Crank rotates smoothly by hand.
- Oil pump screen clean and oil pan gasket sealed.
- Oil refilled and oil filter new.
- Battery reconnected and cooling system topped up as required.

This covers the procedure, use of Plastigauge and inspection points. Follow the tractor’s service manual for the exact torque and clearance specifications and for any model-specific steps.
rteeqp73

The Hydraulic Pump of the Massey Tractor make a sound and does not working / it’s Open and Che... The Hydraulic Pump of the Massey Tractor make a sound and does not working / it's Open and Checking #hydraulicpump ...

The Hydraulic Pump of the Massey Tractor make a sound and does not working / it’s Open and Che... The Hydraulic Pump of the Massey Tractor make a sound and does not working / it's Open and Checking #hydraulicpump ...

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