Tools and consumables
- Metric socket set (8–19 mm), extensions, ratchet, breaker bar
- Torque wrench (0–200 Nm), calibrated
- Feeler gauges (0.05–0.40 mm) or dial indicator + gauge block for lash checks
- Small pry bar or screwdriver, soft‑face mallet
- Engine assembly lube or clean engine oil
- Clean rags, parts trays, shop vacuum
- Gasket scraper, thread chaser (optional)
- Magnetic pickup or tray for bolts/small parts
- Marker or paint pen and masking tape to mark parts
- Replacement parts: valve cover gasket, rocker arm(s) if worn, rocker shaft and bolts if damaged, pushrods/tappets or hydraulic lifters if worn, O‑rings/seals as needed, engine oil (for top‑up/change if contaminated)
- Service manual (for exact torque/clearances and tightening sequences)

Safety precautions
- Work on a cool engine to avoid burns.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Chock wheels and work on level surface; use jack stands if vehicle is lifted.
- Wear eye protection and gloves.
- Keep loose clothing/jewelry away from moving parts when testing.
- Dispose of contaminated rags/oil properly.

Overview for Mitsubishi 4D56
There are variants (mechanical tappet vs. hydraulic lifter models). Procedures below cover removal, inspection and replacement of rocker arms/shaft and setting valve clearance where applicable. Always verify exact torque and valve clearance specs from the vehicle’s service manual before final assembly.

Step‑by‑step

1) Preparations
- Park on level ground, engine cool, battery negative disconnected.
- Remove engine covers, air intake piping, intercooler piping as required to access valve cover.
- Mark and photograph routing of any hoses/wires you remove.

2) Remove valve cover
- Remove accessory brackets in the way.
- Loosen valve cover bolts progressively and remove cover. Pry gently with a flat screwdriver if stuck—avoid damaging mating surfaces.
- Remove and discard the valve cover gasket; clean mating surfaces.

3) Mark orientation and prepare cylinder selection
- Before removing rockers, rotate the engine by hand (socket on crankshaft bolt) until cylinder #1 is at Top Dead Center (TDC) on compression stroke if you will be setting clearances. If replacing rockers only, you still want to know cylinder positions so rocker/pushrod relation is preserved.
- Mark each rocker and its position on the shaft with a paint pen or masking tape (e.g., “1A”, “1B”, left/right). Rockers and the shaft should be reinstalled in the same location and orientation unless replacing.

4) Remove rocker shaft/arms
- Identify the rocker shaft retaining bolts/clamps. Loosen bolts incrementally and evenly in sequence (alternate ends toward middle) to prevent bending the shaft.
- Remove bolts and lift out the rocker shaft assembly gently. Some models have individual rockers that slide off—take care to retain shims or spacers.
- Place rockers in marked trays in the order/side removed.

5) Inspect components
- Inspect rocker arms, shaft and bearing journals for scoring, pitting, cracking or wear. Check cam lobe contact faces and pushrod ends.
- Inspect pushrods (if applicable) for straightness and pitting; roll on a flat surface to check for warp.
- Inspect hydraulic lifters: if oil‑filled lifters collapse or leak, replace.
- Replace any worn or damaged rockers, shaft or bolts. Always replace bolts or studs if they show stretch/damage or are specified as single‑use in the manual.
- Clean parts in solvent, dry and place on clean rags.

6) Replace parts if required
- If replacing rocker arms/shaft, fit new parts in the same orientation marked earlier. New rocker arms should be lubricated with assembly lube or clean engine oil on bearing surfaces and contact faces.
- Replace valve cover gasket and any O‑rings or seals disturbed.

7) Reinstall rocker shaft/arms
- Position pushrods/tappets correctly in bores/pockets.
- Place rockers back onto shaft in correct order; align indexing dowels or flats.
- Install rocker shaft and hand‑tighten retaining bolts. Tighten bolts progressively in sequence to manufacturer torque. (Typical range for small rocker bolts: ~15–35 Nm, but verify exact spec in manual.)
- Torque to spec using torque wrench, following specified sequence (usually outer to inner alternately).

8) Set valve clearance (if adjustable) — mechanical tappet models
- Set engine to TDC compression for the cylinder you’re adjusting (both intake and exhaust on that cylinder closed).
- Use feeler gauge between rocker pad and valve stem tip while rocker is in the neutral position (pushrod is not being lifted).
- Clearances (common approximate values; confirm with manual): intake 0.20–0.25 mm, exhaust 0.25–0.30 mm. These are examples only — check the manual.
- Adjust by loosening locknut and turning adjuster screw until correct gap; hold adjuster and tighten locknut while checking gauge. Re‑check clearance after tightening.
- Repeat rotation to TDC and adjustment for each cylinder in firing order.

9) Hydraulic lifter models
- If the engine uses hydraulic tappets, there is usually no clearance to set. Replace lifters if noisy or collapsed. When reassembling, rotate engine several turns to allow lifters to prime; check for unusual noise.

10) Reinstall valve cover and components
- Clean mating surfaces, install new valve cover gasket and apply a thin bead of RTV where required (follow manual).
- Tighten valve cover bolts evenly to spec (typical 8–12 Nm).
- Reinstall intake piping, brackets, reconnect battery.

11) Final checks
- Prime oil system if you replaced lifters/rockers and drained oil: crank engine without starting for several seconds to build oil pressure (or follow manual).
- Start engine and listen for unusual valve noise. Allow to warm; re‑check valve clearances on mechanical systems after run‑in (some specs require re‑check after 500–1000 km).
- Check for oil leaks and proper operation.

How the tools are used — focused notes
- Torque wrench: use for final torque on rocker shaft bolts and valve cover bolts. Tighten bolts in the specified sequence and to the exact Nm. For bolts with torque + angle spec, use torque wrench then angle meter.
- Feeler gauge: insert between rocker pad and valve stem; select blade that just slides with slight drag. If too tight, clearance is too small; if too loose, too large.
- Ratchet/socket: use for removing and hand‑tightening bolts; do final tightening with torque wrench only.
- Assembly lube/engine oil: coat rocker bearing surfaces, cam lobes, and pushrod ends lightly during assembly to prevent dry start wear.
- Soft‑face mallet: gently tap components into place if they bind (avoid striking bolts).

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Not marking rocker locations: rockers wear to a shaft and to a specific valve — reinstall in same spot unless replaced.
- Over‑ or under‑torquing rocker bolts: use torque wrench and sequence; overtightening can bend shaft or strip threads.
- Setting clearances with incorrect stroke (not TDC on compression): valves will be on the cam lobe if not on compression stroke; adjust only when the valve is fully closed.
- Reusing damaged bolts/studs: replace if stretched or thread damaged.
- Not lubricating new parts: dry start will cause rapid cam/rocker wear.
- Ignoring obvious wear: cam lobe or rocker pitting requires replacement; replacing only one rocker on a matched set can cause imbalance.
- Losing small parts/shims: keep organized labeled trays and magnetic pickups.
- Forgetting to prime oil system after assembly when lifters were removed/replaced — leads to noisy lifters/cam damage.

Replacement parts checklist (common)
- Rocker arms (individual or complete shaft assembly)
- Rocker shaft and retaining bolts (if worn/damaged)
- Valve cover gasket
- Pushrods (if bent/worn) or hydraulic lifters
- Seal washers/O‑rings
- Assembly lube and engine oil

Final note
Follow the factory service manual for the exact valve clearance values, torque specs and tightening sequences specific to your 4D56 variant. Failure to use correct specs risks engine damage.
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Old vs All New Mitsubishi Pajero Sport sound test Comparison for 4N15 vs 4D56 Engine Sounds for the All New Pajero Sport vs the old one.

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