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Mitsubishi 4D56 engine factory workshop and repair manual download

Safety first (short): work on a cold engine, secure vehicle (handbrake, wheels chocked), disconnect battery if you’ll work near the injection pump or electrical connectors. Wear gloves and eye protection.

Overview (what “accelerator linkage” on a 4D56 typically is)
- On older Mitsubishi 4D56 diesels the pedal operates a cable or mechanical linkage that moves the injection‑pump throttle/governor lever or a throttle body. The linkage governs fuel rack/lever position and thus fuel delivery and engine rpm. Wear/stretch/binding in the linkage produces excess pedal free-play, poor response, surging, high or low idle, sticking throttle, or inability to reach full speed.

Tools/parts you’ll likely need
- Basic hand tools (metric spanners, sockets, screwdrivers, pliers)
- Feeler gauge or ruler/metric caliper to measure play
- Replacement cable, bushings, clips, or new adjuster if worn
- Light lubricant (suitable spray for cables/pivots)
- Torque wrench if you remove mountings

Ordered procedure with theory noted at each step

1) Visual and functional inspection
- Action: With hood open, visually follow the accelerator cable/link from pedal to pump/throttle. Check for kinks, frayed cable, cracked housing, missing clips, worn cable ends, seized pivots, or damaged return spring. Operate the pedal by hand and watch the lever move.
- Theory: Physical damage or binding prevents smooth motion or introduces variable backlash. A frayed/stretched cable increases free play; a seized pivot changes geometry and can stick or cause inconsistent motion.

2) Measure pedal free play and total travel
- Action: Measure the initial pedal movement before the throttle lever begins to move (free play). Measure total pedal travel to full throttle. Compare to factory spec if available (typical free play range for many vehicles ~ a few millimeters at the pedal; if spec unknown, minimal free play without binding is desired).
- Theory: Free play is slack between pedal and pump lever; it causes delayed response and imprecise fuel control. Total travel maps to maximum fuel rack movement — insufficient travel means the engine won’t achieve full power.

3) Check linkage geometry and mounting points
- Action: With accelerator at rest, verify that pedal, cable, and lever align and that rubber bump stops/idle stop screws are correctly set. Check lever return spring tension and ensure lever returns fully when cable relaxed. Check that pivot bolts are tight and bushings intact.
- Theory: Incorrect geometry or worn bushings changes the effective lever ratio and the neutral position, altering idle and full-throttle behavior. A weak return spring can allow pump to float open under vibration.

4) Free/loosen and lubricate moving parts
- Action: If cable routing is good but movement feels stiff, disconnect cable at one end and free it through housing a few centimeters. Apply suitable lubricant to pivot points and outer sheath where allowed; avoid getting lubricant into the injection pump’s internals.
- Theory: Friction reduces effective motion and causes non‑linear response. Lubrication reduces friction and restores smooth mapping from pedal input to lever movement.

5) Adjust cable take‑up / adjuster
- Action: Locate the cable adjuster — often at the firewall/pedal or at the throttle lever on the pump. Loosen locknut, turn adjuster to remove slack until the throttle lever just begins to move at the specified pedal free play. Then lock the adjuster. Recheck that idle is correct; if necessary, fine‑tune using the engine idle stop screw (on pump or throttle body) rather than by introducing slack.
- Theory: Tightening the cable removes backlash so the pump lever begins moving with pedal travel. Proper adjustment ensures predictable, linear control of fuel rack. Always use idle stop to set idle rpm, not excessive cable tension, to avoid preloading the governor.

6) Verify full‑throttle travel and stop positions
- Action: Slowly depress to full throttle and ensure full pump lever travel is achieved without binding and without bottoming out cable housing. Check that there is still a small safety margin at full travel (so the cable isn’t under constant tension at rest). Confirm the throttle return spring brings lever back to idle precisely.
- Theory: Full travel must allow the injection pump to reach required fuel delivery without overstressing cable or lever. A hard stop at the wrong point can overload pump linkages or cause premature wear.

7) Replace worn components if necessary
- Action: If cable is frayed, stretched, or housing damaged, replace it. If pivot bushings are worn or lever mount is damaged, renew them. After replacement, repeat adjustment and tests.
- Theory: Mechanical wear cannot be permanently corrected by adjustment. Replacement restores correct lengths, removes slack, and returns pivot friction to design values.

8) Road/test and final checks
- Action: Start engine, check idle stability, blip throttle to confirm smooth response, perform a short safe drive to verify acceleration, no sticking, and consistent return to idle. Recheck and re-torque adjuster locknut.
- Theory: Dynamic testing under load verifies the pump’s response throughout the rpm/load band; static checks can miss binding under motion or engine movement.

How this repair fixes common faults (concise)
- Symptom: Excessive free play / delayed response. Cause: Stretched cable or slack adjuster. Fix: Taking up slack restores direct mechanical linkage so pedal input immediately moves the governor/throttle lever, improving responsiveness.
- Symptom: Sticking or jerky throttle. Cause: Binding cable or seized pivots. Fix: Lubrication, freeing the cable, or replacing worn components removes intermittent friction so motion is smooth and proportional.
- Symptom: High or unstable idle. Cause: Improper idle stop or cable preloaded so lever isn’t resting at true idle position. Fix: Correct idle stop and set cable slack so the lever rests at idle; governor can then control idle properly.
- Symptom: Loss of full power. Cause: Inadequate total travel (stretched cable, incorrect adjustment, or obstructing stop). Fix: Restoring correct cable length/adjuster lets pump lever reach full travel, restoring maximum fuel delivery.
- Symptom: Sudden unintended acceleration risk. Cause: Broken return spring or stuck lever. Fix: Replacing springs/bushings ensures reliable return to idle, preventing unintended opening.

Quick troubleshooting matrix (direct)
- No lever movement when pedal moved: broken/disconnected cable or seized connection -> inspect ends, replace cable or reconnect.
- Large play at pedal but lever moves little: stretched cable or adjuster loose -> adjust or replace.
- Lever moves but engine doesn’t respond: pump linkage detached internally or governor fault -> investigate pump end and governor mechanism.
- Intermittent sticking that smooths after warming: corrosion or old lubricant -> clean/lubricate or replace cable.

Final notes (brief)
- Never obstruct the governor stop/safety devices; adjust idle via the idle stop, not by over-tightening the cable. If the pump end looks damaged or the governor shows internal faults, professional injection‑pump service is required. Replacement of worn cables/bushings is often the permanent fix; adjustment only compensates until replacement.

No questions.
rteeqp73

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