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Mitsubishi 4D56 engine factory workshop and repair manual download

Tools & supplies
- Floor jack + 2 quality jack stands, wheel chocks
- Torque wrench (0–200 Nm range)
- Breaker bar
- Socket set (8–19 mm commonly; deep sockets can help)
- Combination wrenches (10–19 mm)
- Allen key / hex bit set (often 6 mm / 5 mm to hold link stud)
- Pry bar and flat screwdriver
- Hammer / soft mallet
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, WD-40 specialist)
- Wire brush and rags
- Anti-seize or copper grease; silicone or lithium grease (rubber bushing grease or supplied grease for poly)
- New stabilizer bushings (rubber or poly), new bushing brackets if corroded, new end links if worn
- Replacement nuts/bolts if hardware is badly corroded
- Safety glasses, gloves

Safety precautions (must-follow)
- Work on a flat level surface. Chock the wheels left on the ground.
- Never work with vehicle supported by jack alone — always use rated jack stands on solid points (subframe or pinch welds; consult lift points).
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Penetrating oil flings and rust particles are common.
- If you need to remove springs or disassemble strut/control arm further, be aware of stored energy — use spring compressors and follow safe procedures. If uncomfortable, seek a shop.

Overview / typical repair scope
- Most stabilizer (“sway”) bar problems are cured by replacing the rubber bushings and/or end links. Full bar replacement only required if bent/cracked.
- On Mitsubishi vehicles with the 4D56 engine (L200/Triton, Pajero, etc.), the front bar mounts to the chassis via two brackets and connects to the lower control arms/struts by end links. Procedure below covers bushings and end links replacement. Adapt bracket locations to your model.

Step‑by‑step procedure

1) Preparation
- Park, chock rear wheels, set parking brake.
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts slightly while car on ground (breaker bar or impact).
- Raise front of vehicle with floor jack at manufacturer jack point (subframe). Place jack stands under subframe or control arm crossmember. Lower onto stands and confirm solid support.
- Remove front wheels.

2) Inspect components
- Visually inspect the stabilizer bar: bushings (cracked, split, flattened), brackets (rust, warped), end links (play, torn ball-joint boots, seized studs), bar itself (bends or cracks).
- Decide replacement parts: typically replace both bushings and both end links (left + right) as wear is usually symmetrical.

3) Free the stabilizer bar from end links
- Apply penetrating oil to end-link nuts and bushing bracket bolts. Let soak several minutes.
- If end links are separate (ball-joint ends) — hold stud with Allen key or second wrench (some use hex in the stud) and remove nut atop stud with socket. If studs spin, use hex/Allen inside stud to prevent rotation or hold under-head with wrench.
- If links are through-bolts, remove the bolt and nut.
- Support the stabilizer bar with a small jack or pry bar so it doesn’t drop suddenly when links are removed.

4) Remove bushing brackets
- Remove the two bolts securing each bushing bracket to the chassis (usually 12–14 mm bolts). Keep track of bracket orientation (mark front/back if necessary).
- Remove bracket and old bushing. If bushing is split-type you’ll pry it out. Use screwdriver/hammer if stuck; apply penetrating oil to seized metal brackets.

5) Remove/replace bushings
- Clean bar section where bushing sits with wire brush; remove rust and dirt.
- Fit new bushings onto the bar. Most replacement bushings are split (slit) and slide around bar; orient the slit away from load direction (usually downward). If using polyurethane, apply supplied grease or silicone grease to mating surfaces — do not use petroleum grease on rubber.
- Seat the bushing so its locating lip sits in the chassis mount area.

6) Refit brackets and torque
- Clean bracket mounting surfaces; replace brackets if warped or corroded.
- Place bracket over bushing and start bolts by hand to ensure alignment.
- Tighten bolts snugly; final torque later with both sides installed. Typical chassis bracket torque range: 30–60 Nm (refer to factory manual for exact spec). Use torque wrench.

7) Install new end links
- Install end links through the control arm (or strut) and sway bar. If links are ball-joint style, ensure the correct orientation and that any locating sleeves or washers are installed.
- Hand-thread nuts first. Hold stud or use Allen/hex as required, then tighten to spec. Typical end link torque: 40–80 Nm depending on type; manufacturer spec should be confirmed.
- If links are adjustable (threaded rod), set length to match old length so alignment isn’t drastically changed.

8) Final tightening with suspension at ride height (important)
- For some vehicles and especially with rubber bushings, it’s best practice to tighten the bushing bracket bolts with the suspension loaded to ride height — otherwise the bushings can be preloaded and cause squeak or premature wear.
- Safest method: jack the control arm/suspension up to approximate ride height while vehicle still on jack stands (use floor jack under lower control arm) before final torque of bracket bolts and end links. If you cannot safely simulate ride height, at minimum torque to recommended specs but be aware of possible noise/wear.

9) Reinstall wheels & lower
- Refit wheels, fingertighten lug nuts. Lower vehicle off jack stands carefully. Torque wheel lug nuts to spec (typically 100–140 Nm on many Mitsubishis — check your model).
- Re-check all torques (bushing bracket bolts, end link nuts) now vehicle is at ride height.

10) Road test & final checks
- Drive short test: listen for clunks/squeaks. Re-inspect fasteners after 50–100 km/drives and re-torque as needed.
- Check sway bar position vs chassis to ensure no contact during suspension travel.

How each tool is used (brief)
- Jack: lift vehicle at designated lift point; raise slowly and seat on jack stands.
- Jack stands: support vehicle weight; position under strong points.
- Breaker bar: initial loosening of seized nuts/bolts.
- Torque wrench: final tightening to specified torque to avoid under/over-tightening.
- Allen/hex keys: hold link stud to prevent rotation while loosening/tightening nut.
- Penetrating oil: soak seized threads to reduce risk of rounded bolts.
- Pry bar: remove old bushings and manipulate bar into position.
- Wire brush: clean mating surfaces for good seating.

Replacement parts required (common)
- Front stabilizer bushings (left + right)
- Bushing brackets (if corroded)
- End links (both sides) — recommended to replace both
- Nuts/bolts if original hardware is seized or stretched
- Grease (rubber or poly-specific) or grease packet if supplied with bushing kit

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Relying on the jack only — always use jack stands.
- Not using penetrating oil on rusty nuts — leads to rounded heads/broken studs. Heat can help but risk damage nearby components.
- Reusing severely corroded hardware — replace bolts/nuts when in doubt.
- Tightening bushing brackets with suspension unloaded — can preload bushings causing noise and accelerated wear. Where possible torque at ride height.
- Forgetting to hold link stud — stud will spin and you’ll round the nut. Use correct Allen bit or second wrench.
- Using wrong grease with poly bushings — use manufacturer supplied grease; petroleum can degrade rubber.
- Improper orientation of split bushings — can cause binding or uneven wear. Match original orientation.
- Not checking for clearance — ensure bar doesn’t contact chassis or hoses at full travel.

When to replace the whole stabilizer bar
- Bar is bent, cracked or irreparably rusted.
- Mounting eyes are worn or damaged.
- If aftermarket upgrade is desired (stiffer bar) — then recheck link lengths and clearance.

Typical time estimate
- Bushings + end links replacement: 1–2 hours for an experienced tech, longer if rusted or later-stage corrosion requires cutting bolts.

Final note
- Torque specs vary by model year and trim. Where exact numbers matter (safety-critical fasteners) check the factory service manual for your specific Mitsubishi model (L200/Triton, Pajero, etc.) powered by the 4D56 before final torquing.

No further questions as requested.
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