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Mitsubishi 4D56 engine factory workshop and repair manual download

Tools & consumables
- Metric socket/ratchet set (8–24 mm), long extensions, swivel.
- Torque wrench (capable to at least 150 Nm).
- Breaker bar.
- Transmission jack or heavy-duty floor jack + wood blocks.
- Engine support bar or second jack to support engine.
- Clutch alignment tool (correct spline diameter for 4D56 clutch).
- Flywheel holding tool or gear-holding pin (or large screwdriver/gearlock technique with caution).
- Pilot bearing puller / slide hammer or small blind-bearing puller.
- Pry bars, screwdrivers, pliers.
- Flat/Phillips screwdrivers, snap-ring pliers (if needed).
- Hammer, punch.
- Brake cleaner, lint-free rags, parts cleaner.
- Thread locker (medium strength) and anti-seize (on appropriate fasteners only).
- New clutch kit (pressure plate, clutch disc, release/throw‑out bearing), new pilot bearing/bushing.
- Optional: new flywheel or flywheel resurfacing, new pressure plate bolts if one‑time use, new gearbox input seal, hydraulic fluid for bleeding.
- PPE: safety glasses, gloves, wheel chocks, jack stands.

Safety precautions (must follow)
- Work on a flat level surface, chock wheels, set parking brake.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Support vehicle securely on jack stands — never rely on a jack alone.
- Support engine with an engine support or jack under engine/transmission with wood block.
- Transmission is heavy: use a transmission jack or second person to guide and support.
- Keep clutch friction surfaces oil/grease free — use clean gloves and brake cleaner where appropriate.
- Relieve hydraulic line pressure before disconnecting; be prepared to catch fluid and bleed system afterward.

Parts to replace (recommended)
- Clutch kit: pressure plate, clutch disc, release (throw‑out) bearing.
- Pilot bearing/bushing in crankshaft.
- Pressure plate bolts (many recommend new bolts).
- Inspect flywheel: resurface or replace if scored/heat‑spotted/warped. Replace if DMF (dual mass) is worn.
- Gearbox input seal if leaking.
- Replace any worn engine/transmission mount hardware as needed.

Step‑by‑step procedure (Mitsubishi 4D56 — generic sequence)
1) Preparation
- Disconnect negative battery.
- Raise vehicle, chock rear wheels, support on stands. Remove any underbody shields as needed.
- Remove center prop/drive shaft (mark orientation for reassembly) and/or front driveshaft if it interferes.

2) Remove ancillary components blocking transmission
- Remove airbox/intake piping if needed for access.
- Remove starter motor (disconnect electrical connectors and unbolt).
- Disconnect shift linkage/selector rods and any electrical connectors on transmission.
- Remove clutch slave cylinder or release bearing assembly from bell housing; unbolt and hang out of the way (do not disconnect hydraulic line if you prefer to avoid bleeding — if you do disconnect, cap lines and plan to bleed).
- Remove any exhaust cross-pipe or heat shields blocking bell housing bolts.

3) Support engine & transmission
- Place transmission jack under gearbox and snug.
- Support engine with engine support bar or jack under oil pan (use wood block on oil pan to spread load).
- Remove transmission crossmember/mounts securing gearbox to chassis.

4) Unbolt gearbox from engine
- Loosen and remove bellhousing bolts evenly. Keep note of bolt lengths and locations.
- Pull gearbox rearwards slightly to disengage input shaft from clutch, guide it down on the transmission jack. Carefully lower gearbox clear of the engine. Watch for wiring/hoses still attached.

5) Remove clutch assembly
- With gearbox removed, use a star pattern to progressively loosen pressure plate bolts until the plate releases (prevent warping).
- Remove pressure plate and clutch disc. Keep disc orientation noted (direction if marked).
- Inspect flywheel for heat spots, hot spots, scoring or runout. If minor glazing, resurfacing is appropriate; if severe or DMF issues, replace.
- Remove pilot bearing with puller if replacing.

6) Prepare surfaces
- Clean crankshaft flange and flywheel mating surfaces with brake cleaner. Do not soak new disc.
- Check flywheel runout and flatness. Resurface or replace if out of spec.

7) Install pilot bearing & new bearings
- Press new pilot bearing/bushing into crank with a correctly sized driver so it sits flush.
- Fit new release/throw-out bearing onto the transmission input sleeve or release fork (replace pivot grease per manual).

8) Fit new clutch (use alignment tool)
- Position new clutch disc on alignment tool (dished side or marked side per kit instructions toward pressure plate/flywheel as directed).
- Start pressure plate over the disc and hand-run a couple of bolts to hold it.
- Using the clutch alignment tool, center the disc by pushing the alignment tool through the disc splines into the pilot bearing; this centers the disc for proper input shaft engagement.
- Tighten pressure plate bolts in a star/crisscross pattern incrementally to final torque (see notes on torque below). Remove alignment tool after bolts tightened.

9) Reinstall gearbox
- Clean and lubricate transmission input shaft splines lightly with specified grease (only a light smear; avoid contaminating disc).
- Use the transmission jack to raise the gearbox; align input shaft to clutch spline and slide transmission forward until bellhousing mates to engine dowels.
- Start bellhousing bolts by hand to ensure alignment. Torque bellhousing bolts to spec in the service manual.
- Reinstall transmission mount/crossmember and torque to spec.

10) Reattach components
- Reinstall starter, shift linkage, slave cylinder (or reconnect hydraulic line and bleed), exhaust/heat shields, driveshafts—torque bolts to spec.
- Refill/replace any lost transmission/clutch hydraulic fluid and bleed the clutch (pump pedal, open bleed nipple, repeat until firm).
- Reconnect battery.

11) Final checks & test
- With vehicle still on stands, press clutch pedal several times, check for engagement point and pedal firmness.
- Verify no fluid leaks, no unusual noises when rotating driveline by hand (if possible).
- Lower vehicle, road test progressively to check clutch engagement, no slippage, no chatter. Re-torque fasteners after initial heat cycle if manual recommends.

How each special tool is used
- Clutch alignment tool: insert through clutch disc splines into pilot bore to center disc. Keeps disc perfectly concentric while pressure plate is torqued.
- Transmission jack: supports gearbox weight, allows vertical and tilt adjustments to align input shaft to clutch; lower/raise gearbox slowly and hold in place while bolts are started.
- Flywheel holding tool: holds the flywheel steady while loosening/tightening flywheel or crank bolts. Alternatively carefully use a pry or pin in ring gear (use caution to avoid gear damage).
- Pilot bearing puller: hooks behind pilot bearing lip and pulls straight out; some require slide hammer.
- Torque wrench: tighten bolts to specified torque in correct sequence (progressive increments).

Torque notes (verify with factory manual)
- Always use factory torque specs. Typical ranges (confirm for your exact model/year):
- Pressure plate bolts: commonly in the 25–40 Nm range.
- Flywheel bolts: commonly in the 70–110 Nm range.
- Bellhousing/transmission bolts and mount bolts: vary widely — consult manual.
- Tighten bolts in a star/crisscross pattern and in multiple stages (e.g., 1/3, 2/3, final torque) to avoid warping.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Contaminating clutch disc or pressure plate with grease/oil — keep clean; do not touch friction surface.
- Not replacing pilot bearing or release bearing — both cheap and failure leads to noise/engagement issues.
- Unevenly torqued pressure plate bolts causing chatter — torque evenly in star pattern.
- Improper centering of clutch disc — use correct alignment tool or transmission will not slide in.
- Failing to support engine properly — can drop or misalign gearbox.
- Reusing worn flywheel — causes vibration or slipping; inspect and resurface/replace as required.
- Reusing old bolts that are stretch-type (one-time). Replace fasteners recommended as one‑time use.
- Not bleeding hydraulic system thoroughly — leads to soft pedal and incomplete release.
- Rushing reassembly and not marking drive shafts or alignment — can lead to balance or shift issues.

Final recommendations
- Have a service manual or factory torque chart on hand for exact bolt torques and sequence for your specific 4D56 year/model.
- If unsure about dual-mass flywheel (DMF) condition, replace the DMF with clutch kit or replace with single-mass per factory guidance.
- If you lack a transmission jack or assistance, hire a shop — gearbox removal is heavy and dangerous.

End.
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